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Old 1st August 2008, 04:22 PM   #46 (permalink)
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You need to use the twin cam ones from memory, i used rb20/25 arp head stud kit, a couple of mates have re-used stock rb25 ones with no problems, but i would advise at least getting new ones.
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Old 1st August 2008, 10:05 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by leeroy_25 View Post
Rob I am glad you cleared up the head bolt issue. It's all very well if you can access a proper mill and set it all up correctly for retapping.. But I certainly wouldn't have been happy opening up the threads. I was hoping the 11mm option would be sufficent! Do you use the RB30 head bolts? Or do you need some longer or short ones?

Thanks
Lee
No, you don't use the RB30 head bolts but you can re-use RB20/25 head bolts, they are fine to at least 750hp with a stock head gasket when lubed and torqued correctly, save some money towards real good mapping, thats where its at IMO.

If you want to use studs, get arp RB25 head studs.

An article on a R32 GTS4 we built about 4 years ago has just come out in NZ performance car magazine, I'll scan it and add it on here when I get a chance.
We ran 10s in it straight away with a stock RB30 bottom end, stock R32 RB25de head, stock bolts, stock gasket, stock N/A cams and springs etc and its been running 10s ever since while still doing huge road miles, dyno comps and track days.

The guy I built it for sold it about a year ago, the new owner freshened the motor, did some head work and he's running reliable 10s also, I think he's just beaten the times we got in it.

Rob
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Last edited by R.I.P.S NZ; 1st August 2008 at 10:11 PM.
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Old 2nd August 2008, 03:22 AM   #48 (permalink)
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R.I.P.S 10 second stock internal RB30 GTS4 gets a feature
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R34 GTR: Quickest street trim skyline in NZ, 9.7 @ 137 on 1st test pass, first meeting in the UK, 10.4 @ 144.
240z, WRH8.71 / 162 @ 2 bar, stock crank, full street trim
1972 240z, RIPS RB30, quickest/fastest Jap street car in NZ 8.71/162mph 2 bar, No NOS, street tyres.
RB engine building, alloy and stainless fabrication, affordable skyline tuning and high capacity repowers, worldwide shipping arranged.
e-mail rips@inspire.net.nz
www.ripsltd.com
I am a sponsor of the GTR Register!
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Old 2nd August 2008, 09:57 AM   #49 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info and the article Rob..

I have already got a power FC ECU.. And have budget for the mapping! Just the build I need to sort out first! I am hoping to get my motor out and stirpped down in the next month. Then when I know where I am with my current engine and what I can salvage I will get a build list together of my intended mods and parts requirements and see what you all reckon!

Lee
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Old 10th August 2008, 06:59 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Hi Guy's after a bit of turbo info!!

Would R33 GTR Turbo's rebuilt with steel internals be a good starting set-up for a standard RB30 bottom end build. With cams and other supporting mods could I still get up around 600bhp on these turbo's?? Just thinking of my options to work out my total budget requirement!

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Old 10th August 2008, 07:17 PM   #51 (permalink)
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I wouldn't put something as small as any stock or stockish turbos on an RB30 build, no way.
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Old 10th August 2008, 08:12 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by leeroy_25 View Post
Hi Guy's after a bit of turbo info!!

Would R33 GTR Turbo's rebuilt with steel internals be a good starting set-up for a standard RB30 bottom end build. With cams and other supporting mods could I still get up around 600bhp on these turbo's?? Just thinking of my options to work out my total budget requirement!

Thank you
Lee
If your after around 600hp and real good response from a RB30, properly modified stock twins are great.

We've had a full weight street R32 run 11.0 with modified stock twins on a RB30 and it was awesome on the road, super responsive but a 'little' flat up top.

It all depends on your budget and what your trying to achieve but personally I'd go with a good medium sized single if possible.


Rob
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R34 GTR: Quickest street trim skyline in NZ, 9.7 @ 137 on 1st test pass, first meeting in the UK, 10.4 @ 144.
240z, WRH8.71 / 162 @ 2 bar, stock crank, full street trim
1972 240z, RIPS RB30, quickest/fastest Jap street car in NZ 8.71/162mph 2 bar, No NOS, street tyres.
RB engine building, alloy and stainless fabrication, affordable skyline tuning and high capacity repowers, worldwide shipping arranged.
e-mail rips@inspire.net.nz
www.ripsltd.com
I am a sponsor of the GTR Register!
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Old 11th August 2008, 10:48 AM   #53 (permalink)
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For the price of rebuilding your stock turbos buy a Holset diesel truck turbo (HX40- cheap) and a twinscroll manifold, make way more power and have excellent driveability. Or save and buy a proper set of twins or an expensive single.

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Old 11th August 2008, 10:53 AM   #54 (permalink)
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id look into getting a second hand set of 2860's, 2510's or N1 tubbies that need a recon and go from there chap, just save for a few more months.
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Old 11th August 2008, 07:15 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Thanks guys.. Well I just miised out on a cheap set of uprated twins!! Never mind I would prefer to go the single route anyway. I am kean to get a Holset and be a bit unconventional! ON that note does anyone know about the HE500 range compared to the HX40 range> I am guessing the HE500 is probably closer to the HX50 in which case to big for what I am lloking for? Any info gratefully recieved though! The turbo I have found in particular is an HE551V.

Thank you
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Old 12th August 2008, 09:58 AM   #56 (permalink)
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I wish I could help with that but I don't know enough about those turbos. I'm sure you'll find many people who do, I just don't have the knowledge to make a confident recommendation.
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Old 20th September 2008, 10:56 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Hi Guy's,
Have been on holiday and trying to tie up a few things. I think I have got an RB30 block sorted.. However as earlier in the post it was agreed the non turbo series 2 block was fine to use with standard pistons someone else has just mention to me that the turbo block has addition oil squirters in it?? I presume these are for cooling the pistons?? Can you mod the standard block to fit squirters or should I not need to?? Its not anything that has been mentioned before??
Also as the compression ratio will obviously be higher running the standard pistons would it be adviseable to run a thicker headgasket like a 1.6mm maybe to drop it back a bit??

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Old 21st September 2008, 01:45 AM   #58 (permalink)
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There is no need to machine the block for squirters. A lot of trouble for no gain.
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Old 21st September 2008, 03:55 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Thank you!
That puts my mind at ease a bit!! I figured someone would have mentioned quite a major point like that before if it was necessary!!

So What about running a thicker headgasket?? Good idea??

Cheers
Lee
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