Modifying the standard fuel rail - GT-R Register - Official Nissan Skyline and GTR Owners Club forum

GT-R Glenn · 31st July 2008, 10:18 PM

For those interested.
I had a spare one lying around.
I used a standard rail, cut off the entry end fitting and the exit end and all the hard 5/16 pipe that runs down the side of it.
Anyone who is not 200% confident at exyflowing (low temp brazing)SHOULD NOT DO THIS, this is something you do not want failing / high pressure PETROL doesnt have a sense of humour if your ezyflowing fails.

I then ezyflowed 3 off dash 6 (-6) weld on fittings .
One on the entry end, one on the (what was exit) and one in the centre (new exit).
Shown in pcx.
The fuel line is split into 2 supplies using a tee fitting and then fed into each end of the rail, I used pushlock h/p line.
The centre -6 fitting is the return to the fuel reg.
The standard fuel rail usues 10.5mm injector ports.
I reamed mine out to 11.00mm to suit the 700cc sard injectors.
I assume you know how to deburr holes etc:.

Sorry , I cant photoshop at all.

palmer77 · 1st August 2008, 04:24 PM

nifty!!

fletch.rb30 · 1st August 2008, 04:31 PM

Nice work Glenn, i did the same thing on a rb20 rail into greddy copy manifold with some top feed rx7 injectors.
I cut the old fittings off and tigged them over, i tapped brass fittings into the ends of the rail as the plugs are like 5mm thick, and also tigged a -6 fitting on halfway down the rail for a return.

yea its pretty important to do it correctly! i have a mate that brazed some fittings onto his rail and had fuel weeping out of the rail for a while until he noticed, could have been nasty!

GT-R Glenn · 1st August 2008, 09:41 PM

I did that rail 6 years ago, never given any problems.
Yeah, I dont know why some people make things hard.
Its only a fuel rail.
But someone asked about it.
Its a good cheap easy safe rail upgrade, with the satisfaction of being home made.
A really good idea could be to blow mains air into it and submerge it I guess, to be 300% sure its ok.

R.I.P.S NZ · 1st August 2008, 10:16 PM

Good idea and one we have also done in the past, I prefere to tig on the -6 fittings just so if someone gets a little carried away with tightening the hoses the don't risk cracking the welds which 'could' be a possibility with soldered fittings.

Obviously in Glens case, he made it and installed it and he knows what he's doing, but when you sell something you have to cover your ass!!! lol.

Rob

31st July 2008, 10:18 PM	#1 (permalink)
GT-R Glenn GTR Register Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Waiuku NZ Posts: 1,227	Modifying the standard fuel rail For those interested. I had a spare one lying around. I used a standard rail, cut off the entry end fitting and the exit end and all the hard 5/16 pipe that runs down the side of it. Anyone who is not 200% confident at exyflowing (low temp brazing)SHOULD NOT DO THIS, this is something you do not want failing / high pressure PETROL doesnt have a sense of humour if your ezyflowing fails. I then ezyflowed 3 off dash 6 (-6) weld on fittings . One on the entry end, one on the (what was exit) and one in the centre (new exit). Shown in pcx. The fuel line is split into 2 supplies using a tee fitting and then fed into each end of the rail, I used pushlock h/p line. The centre -6 fitting is the return to the fuel reg. The standard fuel rail usues 10.5mm injector ports. I reamed mine out to 11.00mm to suit the 700cc sard injectors. I assume you know how to deburr holes etc:. Sorry , I cant photoshop at all.

1st August 2008, 04:31 PM	#3 (permalink)
fletch.rb30 GTR Register Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: N.E London Posts: 58	Nice work Glenn, i did the same thing on a rb20 rail into greddy copy manifold with some top feed rx7 injectors. I cut the old fittings off and tigged them over, i tapped brass fittings into the ends of the rail as the plugs are like 5mm thick, and also tigged a -6 fitting on halfway down the rail for a return. yea its pretty important to do it correctly! i have a mate that brazed some fittings onto his rail and had fuel weeping out of the rail for a while until he noticed, could have been nasty! Last edited by fletch.rb30; 1st August 2008 at 04:33 PM.

1st August 2008, 10:16 PM	#5 (permalink)
R.I.P.S NZ GTR Register Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: Rotorua NZ Posts: 2,205	Good idea and one we have also done in the past, I prefere to tig on the -6 fittings just so if someone gets a little carried away with tightening the hoses the don't risk cracking the welds which 'could' be a possibility with soldered fittings. Obviously in Glens case, he made it and installed it and he knows what he's doing, but when you sell something you have to cover your ass!!! lol. Rob __________________ R34 GTR: Quickest street trim skyline in NZ, 9.7 @ 137 on 1st test pass, first meeting in the UK, 10.4 @ 144. 240z, WRH8.71 / 162 @ 2 bar, stock crank, full street trim 1972 240z, RIPS RB30, quickest/fastest Jap street car in NZ 8.71/162mph 2 bar, No NOS, street tyres. RB engine building, alloy and stainless fabrication, affordable skyline tuning and high capacity repowers, worldwide shipping arranged. e-mail rips@inspire.net.nz www.ripsltd.com

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1st August 2008, 04:24 PM	#2 (permalink)
palmer77 GTR Register Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Burton on Trent Posts: 220	nifty!!

1st August 2008, 09:41 PM	#4 (permalink)
GT-R Glenn GTR Register Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Waiuku NZ Posts: 1,227	I did that rail 6 years ago, never given any problems. Yeah, I dont know why some people make things hard. Its only a fuel rail. But someone asked about it. Its a good cheap easy safe rail upgrade, with the satisfaction of being home made. A really good idea could be to blow mains air into it and submerge it I guess, to be 300% sure its ok.