Changing Lambda Sensors... - GT-R Register - Official Nissan Skyline and GTR Owners Club forum

DaveR · 5th August 2008, 07:25 PM

Took delivery of 2 new lambda sensors today...looking at them on the car they look to be a bit of a bugger to fit!!! I removed the airfilters and associated pipes to take a good look at the front one and thought I would see if anyone else had any experience in changing them before ploughing into it blindly...any tips? instructions? things to avoid? whats the best tool to use to remove them when you finally get enough space? there doesn't seem any way a 22mm spanner can get in there to remove it!!

Any help much appreciated.....

Dave

Ian C · 5th August 2008, 08:00 PM

Hi Dave,

This can be a bit of a nasty job! (as you said 22mm spanner I believe this is for the R33 or R34)

you need to use the following to do it properly!
1. 22mm lambda sensor socket (this is a deep socket with a slot cut in it to let the cable through)
2. M18x1.5 mm thread clearing tap called a chaser (bought one on ebay for under a fiver)
3. Socket set

(FOR R32 i think it's 17mm socket and M12 x 1.25 chaser)

Making sure the car is cold, strip off most of the pipework around the lambda sensors.
Disconnect the looms from the bracket on the suspension turret housing.
One by one carefully fit the socket onto the sensor. Take great care not to round them off as they may be very tight!

When you remove them, inspect the thread on the sensors carefully. You'll probably find that some of the thread is missing (it's still in the turbo elbow).

Now the difficult bit, you need to run the tap through each turbo elbow to clear out any remaining sensor thread. reason for this is as follows. the thread on the sensor is very fragile, unlike that of the turbo elbow. If you try to fit the sensor without clearing out any remaining material, you'll damage the new part rendering it useless!

When you go to tap the elbows, first, try doing it by hand, it may not need much.
If not, you'll need to do it with the socket set. If this is the case, don't use a UJ as it will go wrong!

FRONT TURBO - You should try to clear the thread using a long extension and a T-bar in order to ensure the tap is balanced as you gently apply load.

REAR TURBO - If you can't clear it by hand, be very careful and use a socket. you'll find you probably can't get a T-Bar in there unless you cut it down. If you use a normal rachet/socket combo, just try and hold the tap straight by hand! be real sure before you go for it, otherwise you may ruin the turbo elbow!

once you have cleared the threads sufficiently, add a tiny amount of copperslip to the new sensors and fit them by hand. you should be able to screw them all the way in, only using tools to put the last turn on them. Don't go straight for the tools or you may ruin them.

If you've got this far without any issues, you're laughing. refit the piping and all done.

Ian

alex2005 · 5th August 2008, 08:02 PM

Ideally you should use a proper Lambda socket if you cant get a spanner on it.

DaveR · 5th August 2008, 09:01 PM

thanks for the detailed reply....and you are correct in that it is for an R33. Reading through your detailed steps...when cleaning the thread with the tap is it possible anything could drop into the turbo elbows or does the tap prevent this from happening?

Ian C · 5th August 2008, 10:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaveR

thanks for the detailed reply....and you are correct in that it is for an R33. Reading through your detailed steps...when cleaning the thread with the tap is it possible anything could drop into the turbo elbows or does the tap prevent this from happening?

any traces of swarf (minimal) will fall into the exhaust pipe (post turbo) then get ejected at the rear when you start the car!

good luck

SEGTR · 6th August 2008, 12:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ian C

any traces of swarf (minimal) will fall into the exhaust pipe (post turbo) then get ejected at the rear when you start the car!

good luck

Unless you have a cat!

Ian C · 6th August 2008, 06:43 AM

i'm allergic to cats

DaveR · 8th August 2008, 03:06 PM

managed to change the front lambda sensor but couldn't shift the rear one. Thought it was my cheap tools so sent it to my local garage to change it and do the MOT (the front did make a difference to the readings so should pass if this can be changed). They tell me it is seized solid and they need to get heat on it to free it which means they want to remove everything that side including the manifold to get the heat on it....anyone else ever removed a siezed lambda sensor? any tips or is this the only way to go now?

5th August 2008, 07:25 PM	#1 (permalink)
DaveR GTR Register Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 29	Changing Lambda Sensors... Took delivery of 2 new lambda sensors today...looking at them on the car they look to be a bit of a bugger to fit!!! I removed the airfilters and associated pipes to take a good look at the front one and thought I would see if anyone else had any experience in changing them before ploughing into it blindly...any tips? instructions? things to avoid? whats the best tool to use to remove them when you finally get enough space? there doesn't seem any way a 22mm spanner can get in there to remove it!! Any help much appreciated..... Dave

5th August 2008, 08:00 PM	#2 (permalink)
Ian C GTROC Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Buckingham Posts: 1,261	Hi Dave, This can be a bit of a nasty job! (as you said 22mm spanner I believe this is for the R33 or R34) you need to use the following to do it properly! 1. 22mm lambda sensor socket (this is a deep socket with a slot cut in it to let the cable through) 2. M18x1.5 mm thread clearing tap called a chaser (bought one on ebay for under a fiver) 3. Socket set (FOR R32 i think it's 17mm socket and M12 x 1.25 chaser) Making sure the car is cold, strip off most of the pipework around the lambda sensors. Disconnect the looms from the bracket on the suspension turret housing. One by one carefully fit the socket onto the sensor. Take great care not to round them off as they may be very tight! When you remove them, inspect the thread on the sensors carefully. You'll probably find that some of the thread is missing (it's still in the turbo elbow). Now the difficult bit, you need to run the tap through each turbo elbow to clear out any remaining sensor thread. reason for this is as follows. the thread on the sensor is very fragile, unlike that of the turbo elbow. If you try to fit the sensor without clearing out any remaining material, you'll damage the new part rendering it useless! When you go to tap the elbows, first, try doing it by hand, it may not need much. If not, you'll need to do it with the socket set. If this is the case, don't use a UJ as it will go wrong! FRONT TURBO - You should try to clear the thread using a long extension and a T-bar in order to ensure the tap is balanced as you gently apply load. REAR TURBO - If you can't clear it by hand, be very careful and use a socket. you'll find you probably can't get a T-Bar in there unless you cut it down. If you use a normal rachet/socket combo, just try and hold the tap straight by hand! be real sure before you go for it, otherwise you may ruin the turbo elbow! once you have cleared the threads sufficiently, add a tiny amount of copperslip to the new sensors and fit them by hand. you should be able to screw them all the way in, only using tools to put the last turn on them. Don't go straight for the tools or you may ruin them. If you've got this far without any issues, you're laughing. refit the piping and all done. Ian __________________ +10 extra bhp for £55.... Get your baffled TWIN TURBO pipe now from GTR.co.uk Shop Last edited by Ian C; 5th August 2008 at 08:08 PM.

5th August 2008, 08:02 PM	#3 (permalink)
alex2005 GTROC Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: In the Garage Posts: 626	Ideally you should use a proper Lambda socket if you cant get a spanner on it. __________________ not just a car, a responsibility! My rebuild thread http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/96129-r32-gtr-engine-bay-makeover-rebuild.html

6th August 2008, 06:43 AM	#7 (permalink)
Ian C GTROC Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Buckingham Posts: 1,261	i'm allergic to cats __________________ +10 extra bhp for £55.... Get your baffled TWIN TURBO pipe now from GTR.co.uk Shop

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5th August 2008, 09:01 PM	#4 (permalink)
DaveR GTR Register Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 29	thanks for the detailed reply....and you are correct in that it is for an R33. Reading through your detailed steps...when cleaning the thread with the tap is it possible anything could drop into the turbo elbows or does the tap prevent this from happening?

8th August 2008, 03:06 PM	#8 (permalink)
DaveR GTR Register Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 29	managed to change the front lambda sensor but couldn't shift the rear one. Thought it was my cheap tools so sent it to my local garage to change it and do the MOT (the front did make a difference to the readings so should pass if this can be changed). They tell me it is seized solid and they need to get heat on it to free it which means they want to remove everything that side including the manifold to get the heat on it....anyone else ever removed a siezed lambda sensor? any tips or is this the only way to go now?