N1 oil pump or Tomei

[Hobbystock]

I am building an rb26 with h-beam rods and forged pistons. I want to upgrade the oil pump but the tomei is $1500 and the n1 is $350. At what poing do you need to ditch the n1 for the tomei. I havn't picked the turbo kit yet but am leaning towards a twin turbo 600 hp kit.

[pupsi]

At higher power level's I would definatly go with either the Tomei oil pump or as I have with the JUN.

[RSVFOUR]

The tomei one is over 4 times the price of the N1 ......................

Now why do you think that is


No oil = no engine and they cost a tad more than that to rebuild.

[matty32]

Tomei oil pumps are £690 from us, worth their overall price over the n1 all day long

[G40tee]

have just had an n1 pump crack at 1500 miles from new.
not worth it, am now looking at a tomei i imagine
:-(

[GLOBAL AUTO JP]

good to have atm oil pump over std/N1 but make sure to "plan" to have enough oil left in the pan at high rev's.
High RPM with atm oil pump is like flushing toilet.
Also, higher oil pressure = higher oil temp (but better than low oil pressure.)

[jae]

From the price it's the high flow unit, has bigger drive gearing allowing a slightly larger bearing clearance to be run.

I chose it for exactly this reason. N1 is OK, but as you're going forged, I'm guessing that you are not intending to end up with less than 400 ft/lb, so get the Tomei.

[kismetcapitan]

Tomei's are apparently unbreakable. N1s....this is why they cost $350


I now own a Tomei, but it will suck the sump dry at extended high RPM unless you get extra sump capacity. The Trust weld-on is cheap and easy. Accusumps have great benefits but require some creative plumbing. What did I get? All. Here's the Tomei -


Why? Here's a FUBAR'ed crankshaft - doesn't look bad, but it's unusuable~


The more you pay up front, the less you pay in fixing mistakes later. I have learned this the hard and expensive way. Also, upgrade completely - when you do a system (cooling, oil, fuel, etc) it really needs to be done all at once. Either that, or keep the boost way down and your redline real low.

[G40tee]

ive just had an n1 pump fail after 1500 miles, we dont know why it has but the drive where it meets the crank has cracked.

i am going Jun as i dont have £800 to spend on a tomei but tomei are the best from what ive heard.

Ive gone completely off the idea of N1's

[kismetcapitan]

here's my JUN pump:

cracked housing:

cracked gear:


the upside is that I ran my car for eight months with the oil pump like this and I never once lost oil pressure. You'll know if you break a JUN - you'll get oil dribbles, but mine didn't shatter - that's the upside anyways.

cost of JUN + cost of N1 = cost of Tomei and then some. I should have bought Tomei from the beginning.

[willrobdon]

Seems to me like it's worth going that little more if the tomei's are that good, after all in any engine the oil is SO important. If it was me i'd go tomei. Considering how much of a pain in the ass it is to get at, you only wanna do it once!

[Hobbystock]

Thanks alot for all you're reply's. I'm deffinately going to go with tomei.. Get it done ounce and for all.

[agent-x]

how did your pumps crack kismet?

[Aphid]

Oh man! i just bought an N1 Oil pump and its in the garage getting fitted now

[kismetcapitan]

Originally Posted by agent-x

how did your pumps crack kismet?

main factor was a worn crank damper pulley that took out the JUN pump. It can look fine and appear to be spinning evenly, but can still be out by a bit and cause some serious imbalance problems at high rpm. The N1 met its demise by getting hammered on by idiot mechanics.

not helping things were excessive crank thrust clearance. A new crank and main center bearing sorted that.