Fuel issues, and PFC problem

[UK_SPAWN]

I think i have narrowed the pump down to being ****ed, so where do i get one of these "Tomei fuel pump loom with relay" , iv had a look on RHD japan, but cant seem to find it, although i have found it before.

can i make my own?
what i want is this, Positive comes off battery and goes to pump,
negative goes off battery, to dash, to a switch, then to the negative on the pump.
then when you get in the car, flick the fuel pump switch and start her up. Will this work? gets rid of everything that can go bad? relay, pump control unit etc.

Next my PFC hand unit, has gone mad, is this because of the battery being crap?
it seems to have set the contrast/brightness to some stupid level , that you cant see the screen, although it is actually turning on and off.... after driving around a while, the screen usually comes back on, and everything is fine... then occasionally, it will reset its self, showing the "boot screen" if you understand...

Now the battery is totally dead, im just going to get a new one, instead of charging it up again.


this is about both things, do you have to remove that metal plate (big black metal thing looks like structural support) in the back, and the strut brace to get the battery and pump out?


Thanks all, hope to get back OTR soon, and actually come to a meet / track day. Iv had the car a while now, and its Doing my head in not being able to come to meets.



Oh and i found some more footage of my car when peter owned it, it was running a nice 450 bhp, If you go to Google Video, type in "skyline r33" and sort them by duration "long >20 mins" .. there is a very good video about skylines, its the one at 77mins, my car appears in the first few seconds, and at 42:20s for a good bit from peter ... love seeing my car, feels strange!

[frostmotorsport]

hi. regarding the PFC - I read about this recently - so do a search - I'm sure someone has already experienced this with the hand controller.

regarding accessing the pump - it makes like a whole lot easier if you remove the metal brace - which yes, is a structural support.

regarding wiring the pump - I did mine just recently with bits I had laying around the workshop - hardest bit was finding the right wire to tap into out of the factory loom so the ign. key arms the pump, so you don't need to wire a separate switch - unless you want to.

I just ran a big +12v feed off the batt with an inline fuse to a relay, the computer grounds the other side of the relay to switch it (through the 30-odd ohm side of the relay) and the fed the pump from the switched side of the relay and ran a new, clean earth for the pump as well. that way you don't have to remember to turn off the pump(s) !!

if that all sounds too confusing, let me know and I'll draw you a pic and post it up.

[frostmotorsport]

just re-read your post. whatever you do.... do NOT wire it as you have indicated!!!! bad bad bad....

running a wire all the way from the batt to the switch in the dash & back to the pump will cause waaaaay to much current drop! moreover, if you wanted to do that (which you don't!) you'd just go earth under dash to switch to pump. but don't!!!!!!

you MUST run a relay (I now carry a spare) so you could switch the low amp side of the relay from the dash if you really wanted to, and the high amp side is direct from batt to relay to pump.

I'll draw some pics....

[UK_SPAWN]

thank you for the response frostmotorsport, i think i understand what you mean, i just want the minimal fuss fuel system, at minimum cost to me, what AMP fuse inline did you use?

and why is a relay necessary? i dont care about the pump life, this is just noise issue i think, sureley running the pump all the time would just caulse the unused petrol to be returned to the tank, or swirl pot if i get one, and then to the tank? or am i confused?

thanks again,

[frostmotorsport]

I'm running a 25A fuse, but 20A should do it. I've done a diagram - it's not flash!! but should be enough to give you an idea...



feel free to ask questions - you can find the ECU earth wire from the old relay wiring (blue relay in my R33) - if you wire it wrong it's no big deal , you just light up the car when the ECU turns the pump on!

[UK_SPAWN]

NICE DIAGRAM , looks pretty standard , except the numbers you wrote near the relay... what do these represent?

It also a blue relay in my R33 GTR

Thanks again m8, gr8 help, good to see some people still take pride in helping the new guys cheers .

[frostmotorsport]

the numbers correlate to the pin ID numbers on automotive relays - if you turn one upside down, you'll see these numbers stamped in there, alongside a diagram printed on the side. The EASY way to tell is with a multi-meter - the low voltage side has around 30ohms (from memory) resistance, the high voltage side will be open-circuit (except 87A which is closed-circuit on a 5-pin relay)

if you google "automotive relay wiring" there are a ton of step by steps - mostly about headlight relays. same principle.

And always glad to help! As long as Samurai Sam doesn't come along a poo-poo my advice

Also note that there are two low amp wires that come from the factory relay and go into a plug above the fuse block in the boot - one is earthed by the ECU (the one you want) and the other is a switched +12v feed for the ECU to earth - if you tap into the wrong one (as I did first time round!) you'll just energise funny parts of the car when you turn the key on, as you're back-feeding voltage into the looms! not a big deal - my central locking clicked on and the interior light lit up! change the wire and Bingo! If I could be bothered pulling all the gubbins out of the boot, I'd tell you the color code of the right wire!!

[NotoriousREV]

Why do you want to replace the existing wiring/relay if it's the pump itself that's knackered? It sounds to me that you're making hard work for yourself. I can pretty much gurantee that with a single pump of a similar type to standard that the stock loom and relay will be far more reliable than anything you put together yourself.

Just replace the faulty pump and reuse the exsisting loom.

[UK_SPAWN]

Because i don't want the Pump controller involved, and i don't know if the pump is definitely the issue, may be the relay as well, so what i want to do, is make everything visible and get rid of everything unnecessary that can go wrong.
Like i say, if i didn't need a relay id wire it to the battery and have a lil flick switch on and off. So basically, i'm ordering a swirl pot, and a dual pump setup, getting rid of all the stock stuff, and replace it with better.

Originally Posted by NotoriousREV

Why do you want to replace the existing wiring/relay if it's the pump itself that's knackered? It sounds to me that you're making hard work for yourself. I can pretty much gurantee that with a single pump of a similar type to standard that the stock loom and relay will be far more reliable than anything you put together yourself.

Just replace the faulty pump and reuse the exsisting loom.

[UK_SPAWN]

If I could be bothered pulling all the gubbins out of the boot, I'd tell you the color code of the right wire!!

no i think that will be fine, you have helped a lot and now iv decided to go dual pump, should be better and more reliable , and the swirl pot looks cool to

cheers guys

[kismetcapitan]

I asked RHD Japan to supply the Tomei fuel pump relays a month ago; they're working on it.

[frostmotorsport]

REV, I think Spawn has the right idea - hotwire the pump to see if the problem lies with a $5 relay or a $200 pump!!! I've heard those controllers are a pain in the a$$ so I chose to run mine at full voltage - and for all the nay-sayers who reckon the are variable to extend pump life, I will point you to almost all other auto manufacturers who run fuel pumps full-tilt all the time with similar MTBF's.

Spawn, you could still switch the pumps - instead of the ECU sinking the low-amp 12V - just run that wire to your switch, and the other side of the switch to an earth (the 30ohm in the relay ensures you won't blow fuses) - i.e. your switch completes or breaks the circuit to run/stop the pumps. if you hid the switch somewhere, it'd be a nice anti-theft device too!

[NotoriousREV]

Originally Posted by frostmotorsport

REV, I think Spawn has the right idea - hotwire the pump to see if the problem lies with a $5 relay or a $200 pump!!! I've heard those controllers are a pain in the a$$ so I chose to run mine at full voltage - and for all the nay-sayers who reckon the are variable to extend pump life, I will point you to almost all other auto manufacturers who run fuel pumps full-tilt all the time with similar MTBF's.

Spawn, you could still switch the pumps - instead of the ECU sinking the low-amp 12V - just run that wire to your switch, and the other side of the switch to an earth (the 30ohm in the relay ensures you won't blow fuses) - i.e. your switch completes or breaks the circuit to run/stop the pumps. if you hid the switch somewhere, it'd be a nice anti-theft device too!

Sure, as a diagnostics job I don't disagree, but my impression was that he was doing this as a permanent fix. I have no opinion on the pump controller, as I have no experience of it failing or causing problems but personally I wouldn't replace OEM wiring, switches and relays for home-made wiring, switches and relays as my attempts would be worse than Nissans

I'd also probably manage to park the car up leaving the pump switched on and find my battery flat in the morning

[frostmotorsport]

agree, that's why I have the ECU switching the low-amperage side of my new relay. no chance of ever getting it wrong!!

and just for info - the OEM wiring is utter pants! far too thin gauge wire, connector pins that are crimped and not soldered and a cheap, parts-bin relay. Aftermarket stuff is much better quality. And I always solder every connection - even crimped pins - I crimp 'em then flow solder into the joint as well - the crimp holds the connection mechanically, but you need solder to flow the current.

[UK_SPAWN]

OK im sortin the fuel system... im ordering my swirl pot, and dual pump set-up this week if all goes to plan.

A standard intank unit, to a swirl pot, and a 044 to cap it off with in-line filter.

Just a few Questions.

If it has an in-line fuel filter, do i need to remove the old one.. if so where is it? if not.. where is it.. i want to replace it anyhow

Lastly, i saw a relay kit in halFrauds for wiring Fog lights, its got a switch, a 4 pin relay, in-line (30a) fuse and all wired and ready to go for £11, so i think im going to use that for the basis of wiring, maybe just beef up the gauge of the wire. The switch even has a cool light on (not that you wouldn't forget your noisy pumps are on) so you can see if its on or off !wow! ,

Anyway, does the type of relay matter? IE do i have to use a blue Nissan one like what's in...? or will any do? its a relay right? .

And i see your worry about the wiring looms, but its not exactly rocket science, wiring a few wires, in 100% sure i can do it. id rather have a switch than it be on any controlled system.. less to interfere with it.

After all, if the pump has to plug into the ECU for the signal, it may aswell just go to a switch instead (the ecu is in the footwell? ) so just do a switch in the dash.

Most race cars i have seen have a pump switch, and a prime but i dont know how that works/what its for.

Cheers Peeps, Love you all