JL GTR - Started from Stock, Growing up.

[EvolutionVI]

Make sure to retighten your wheels a few times when the car is driven the first meters......paint on the mounting areas of the spacers isn´t the best idea

[archaeic_bloke]

well, i wrote my last midterm exam today, so naturally got right back into the work on the car.. man its so hard going back after 3 weeks of not touching it! grrr...

2 weeks ago i made a large order through a shop, heres whats on its way over:

- 2 x Garrett 2860R-5
- N1 oil pump
- stainless braided oil lines with oil restrictors
- full set of vibrant performance T-bolt clamps and silicone hose couplers for the entire FMIC piping system

is supposed to ship out this week, set to arrive about a week from friday,

so first thing i did tonight was disconnect the main engine ground wire, then disconnected the heater hoses from the body:


then went under the car and disconnected the rear prop shaft from the transmission, its easy just 4 bolts.


while i was down there i also unbolted the clutch slave


and finally i painted the front re-bar with POR-15, and i touched up a couple other parts like small brackets that arent really seen usually, but i saw them, and they looked like they needed fresh paint. lol

[jdmchrist]

Originally Posted by archaeic_bloke

@ Git-r thanks so much for the kind words! im sure you'll get a solid kick outta this next post!...

@rhds14 umm i sold the L-jetro because it had been sitting for so long doing nothing, i didnt want to install it and re-tune the car untill it was worth doing... at this moment the plan for the ECU is undecided.. im keen on another L-jetro though...

well its basically a small update everyday at this point, i do as much as i can while balancing homework and real work. i honestly wish my body didnt require sleep.. what a design flaw.. why do we need to sleep anyways!?

uggghh to add to the rediculous situation that was polishing the BOV's... re-assembled them and then thought id pressurize the piping to see how it holds up... all i hear is .. sssssssSSSSSSS... and im thinking.. .FFUUUU<<<<KKKKKK...


so.. i took them both apart all again.. only this time, i decided i would completely rebuild them and polish the brass pistons so they would seal properly...

so i take the circlip out of the first one, and it explodes!.. duhh... like i didnt know that would happen! the piston shot across the room and the spring went flying.. it was epic... anyways cleaned it up, oiled it, put it back together and all was good, it actuates as it should...


now the second one is the one which had the air leak.. and it was clear to me why.. it was FULL of gunk and sand and dirt.. which had caused the piston to become sezied into the BOV housing, cause when i removed the circlip. the piston did not fly out... so, i had to make use of some other tools not normally used for this purpose and after working the piston back and forth for more than an hour.. it finaaallly came free... so, i polished the brass and the inside, oiled it up, compressed the piston down, re-installed the circlip, and bolted it all back together.. ta-dah! perfect.. no air leaks anymore and both pistons actuate as they should!

i wonder how long i was running bassically with only one BOV for? lol...


next thing on my list of small tasks was to mod the balance tube for the recirc system, since i don't run recirculating BOV's i don't need the piping behind the FMIC and i need a way to block the return pipe under the intakes.. so, marked it, cut it.. and capped it, job done!


and heres the finished result of that.

THEN... it was time to get on with some of the bigger things i wanted to do, which included painting the exhaust system to stop all the gnarly corrosion!...
so i started at the axleback section with the wire brush wheel.. when to my surprise!... WOW.. the exhaust system is actually stainless steel!! hahah i had no idea! it was always so corroded and oxidized i just thought it was regular steel!



So i decided i wasnt going to polish the whole damn thing.. it would take too effin long... instead i decided to polish the axle back and muffler and the rest of the exhaust would recieve the high-temp POR-15 paint as its never seen anyways.

but ya, polished it up and gave it a coat of clear, heres the end result!

what you use to give a good polish like that on the exhaust???? post me a pic of the product you use please good thread!!

[archaeic_bloke]

Serious update request fulfilled!


first, since ive been asked, this is the polishing kit i use, i have 6 different compounds for all different kinds of metal. heres a pic of that kit,


and heres the tension rods new paint job (i had to keep the POR15 base coat well away from the nuts and bolts section as this paint "fuses" metal together permanently)... then a top coat of mettalic red with a clear coat... i know they;re not seen, but i see em anyways.


and heres a center console DIN that marc made for me! (props, the man with all the solutions! haha as he also hooked up some new wheel studs! woo hoo!)
its a carbon fiber weave with red kevlar, its super cool, from one direction it looks mostlyt black, and the other its red...



then i unbolted these from the rears, im gonna clean up the coil-over and oil them and stuff, and gonna repaint the cuso rear A-arms with POR 15.


ok so back to the job of pulling the motor:
disconnected the speedo cable


then just unbolted the attesa filler pump thing


then drained the engine oil






at this point i have to stop and give a HUGE thanks to marc and my neighbor jesse for comin over tonight and giving me a much needed hand with all this! thanks a lot guys!


so we had a fair bit of fun removing the circlip from the shift lever... anywas we got it out finally:




then i dont have pictures of this part! ahh... but anyways we unbolt the 4 tranny mount bolts and removed the cross member.. of course we had to support the tranny with a jack... then its just one nut on each side for the engine mounts... then we rigged up our crane with two large hoops of 7000 pound test cables.. and due to our height restrictions on my garage we had to be super careful hahah.

also the jack stands were in the way so they had to be move and then we had to disconnect the electrical from the alternator, a plug at the bottom of the steering rack and the wiring to the starter mortor and the tranny sensors. ugh i had obviously forgotton a whole wiring loom worth of wires lol ha, anyways. heres us setting up the crane:



and we started to lift!! - but its a very tricky game to get the balance just perfect to clear the pipes below and the firewall above and all the other junk in the way!


and here it is just starting to peak out


a little moooore! and ugh, jammed on the upper rad support... so we put a jack on the front and actually lowere the body of the car to make it clear... and that still wasnt enough to clear it all!! so we ended up lifting it out ourselves!! - we also had to remove the front rebar because we couldnt get enough reach on the crane!! ugh doh! remember for next time i guess


and there she is, out, free and clear, nothing damaged in the process except my only work light


and theres the body, waiting for its refreshed heart! (EPIC photo finalé)

[jdmchrist]

nice to see this update as i will do the samething next winter. good work man! and i didnt know that mastercraft polish compound work so well loool

[archaeic_bloke]

so ill start todays update off with some good news, my parts should be here from Z-tune by next week end. also i got my twin turbo pipe modded by my dads machine shop, they did a superb job. all i did was send in my part with a couple of photos of other peoples modded pipes and the guy replicated it, and the welds are amazing!








ok so now back to the car - first on the table was to get rid of the HICAS junk and re-loop the power steering lines through the cooler and back into the reservoir from the pump, same way that everyone else always does it.



and here we go, got it all out, only took a few hours, and lots of swearing.
i was able to leave my rack in place because its been welded not to move, but maybe in the summer i will swap it for the driftworks kit just because its lighter than the rack.


ok so as you can see from the photos above, the engine bay was SUPER dirty.. and on the list for tonight was a decent clean up, and a wire tuck. so you saw all the before shots above.. heres the after shots, its pretty much finished my engine bay now. just need to mount my oil filter relocation, my coolant tank, and do the wiring for my battery relocation.





and heres the big picture i really dig the new covers i order from the UK.. laser etched GTR fuse box cover ..mmmm

[archaeic_bloke]

well a bit more updates today:

I wanted to beef up the rust prevention on the underside of the car in some of the places that see the most wear and tear. even though the Skyline is undercoated and made from galvanized metal, its still a good idea.

so I gave the frame rails and the inner fenders all a coat of POR-15, its that special paint that becomes harder as it absorbs the moisture from the surface its painted on... tested in a number of ways and it comes out amazing, it'll dry to a hard finish and really keep the dirt off



i took these out last week and have been going through the process to bring them from rusty to fresh and new, also oiled and cleaned all the joints, and they're finished with a high gloss high endurance metal flake red


so i started with relocating the windshield washer fluid reservoir to the trunk. that meant running 4 wires front to back, and 2 water hoses.

i tucked them all under the carpet along the side where they run all the other wires and tubes. it worked well.

and i ran a line up to the front which will be for the intercooler spray

[archaeic_bloke]

well not much in terms of an update tonight but some interesting photos i have here.

tonight i ran my ground wire under the car and into a mounting point in the engine bay for the battery relocation kit. on that same mounting point i also mounted my ??Greddy?? earthing kit and its the factor body ground mounting point too.... i checked with my volt-meter/ohm-meter and im getting perfect conduction through all grounds and chassis from one end of the car to the other.

i also re-wrapped the vinyl black tape on the cables that had old and cracked coverrs.

then i had to get started on the prep work for doing the rust proof coat on the other side frame rail and inner fenders... so that means i used degreaser and got all the gunk, grease grime and dirt off the places to be paint, and i let it air dry for a few days.


but heres the funny part, i was doing the area around the gas tank filler neck, and i moved the black plastic cover for it and rocks fell out!... so i took it the cover off completely and ommmgggg look what was back there! 20 years worth of sand and dust and dirt!!! barf... so i cleaned it mint again!... thats getting painted too!

[archaeic_bloke]

well today a couple of boxes arrived! woohoo!!





new N1 oil pump:



Vibrant silicone hose couplers and T-bolt clamps. unfortunatley the hoses shipped to me were the wrong type! so we have to exchange them.


some cheap ebay brand coolant overflow reservoir which i plan to modify to make it fit nicely in the engine bay:


and of course... Garrett GT2860R-5's with some braided oil lines with oil restrictors:


thats all for now.. next week will see more progress and im also still waiting on a few shipments to arrive:

[jdmchrist]

how much you have paid for the pair of turbo with shipping and tax and from where???

[iVeR]

aren't you worried with the N1 oilpump, when you rebuild you engine series

[archaeic_bloke]

pm setn jdmchrist.

@ iVeR... solution to that problem posted below

:O whats this>? a box with nissan stamped on it!:? hrmmm what is it?




....... mmm new R34 N1 crank!... i measured with a micrometer and the oil pump fits 100% perfectly with ZERO play onto the crank nose with full engagement!


the plan is the engine will be going to Autoworx (a local shop) shortly to have the new crank and oil pump fitted along with ACL bearings, the rest as like always lately will be done by myself.

so in order to get the engine over there it had to be seperated from the transmission to make less work for the mechanic which means less paying $$ for me. so i disconnected the forward prop shaft.


then i spent many hours wrestling this awful heavy lunk my god its SO hard to get off by yourself! its heavy and awkward and is super difficult to handle. lol.. anyways i finally got it seperated

[iVeR]

i am running my self a r34 crank with a N1 oil pump, but think of swapping. But can you tell me more about why its safer, maybe i dont have to changes

[archaeic_bloke]

@ iVeR - well... let me ask you a question.... why would you change?... ; you see, consider the original issue with the stock short nose R32 crank and stock OEM oil pump. the problem is that the crank drive (the part that engages the oil pump) is too narrow/short, so the metal fatigues after a while and wears down, and you end up with a gap between the crank and the oil pump gear. this is known as too much "play".. and what happens is at higher RPM the harmonics of the system will destroy the oil pump causing oil pump failure and starvation.

a new crank and new oil pump that are perfectly matched for each other won't have this issue at all! so theres nothing to worry about.

[iVeR]

ok thanks for explaining maybe stay with the N1