Anybody having engine problems yet or has heard of??

[waltong]

Originally Posted by gtr R33 lee

Philip i did change it to "near standard" before you posted, im just surprised by the 35s faults tbh, seems the quality has gone in which nissan stood for for so long, would be nice that the issues were ironed out and ppl tuned them to say 50% more than there factory output with no issues then i would get to like the new beast..

We must remember that forums give a very unclear view and there are many many R35's all over the world running as sweet as a nut. If you go onto any Ferrari, Astons, Porsche forums you will see the same issues, same engine failures and warranty battles. I cant see how you can expect to tune a car to that extent and not have problems. If it was that easy Nissan would have done it!

[sam elassar]

this is going in circles, i am really sorry to hear about your engine alex but you cant expect nissan to fix it under warranty ? come on lets be serious here mate you have been in the game for long enough to know the score

did you not have an oil pump failure with the r34 as well due to oil pump failure which is a bit common on the earlier models?

my take on tuning in general is if you are going to modify your car then you have to be able to fix it when 5H1T hits the fan. you most definitely have had a bearing issue and that is due to failure of the oil film between the rods and crank.

oil pump failure obviously will cause that very quickly, as my evo engine suffered at 12000rpm couple of years ago!! or oil quality deteriorating due to few reasons
1- heat from sustained hi speed, i know it is difficult to look at oil temp while doing 300km/h

2- map running too rich or too lean, too rich will also dilute the oil with fuel etc etc.

easy way of finding out is getting the oil tested and see if it has broken down due to heat or contaminants like metal particles or fuel

were you runing full exhuast or just Y pipe? what was the afr at the top end, any EGT testing?

[EvolutionVI]

@Sam: In germany there is a few Stock GTR´s having the same problems.....even Nissan owned Demo cars out of the first batch.........like mine,all cars that have broken are out of the first european cars......

My oil was good,the mapping is good,no knocking,no melted piston,no broken sparkplug.....we dont have a "it was tuned and broke because of this" case here.....it broke because of a bad working part in the oilpressuresystem.....as all the athers....

PS: Its more cars then you think,not just 1 or 2...

[Martin Donnon]

Hi there guys, we dont post here much but some of you might know who we are - Willall Racing the company that does a lot of research on lubricants, coolers, parts design etc for the R35. We have something to add here -

When removing the sump (oil pan) off our GTR for initial design of our WR35OP High Volume oil pan we found that the original mesh in the oil pickup was over 50% blocked by the factory gasket compount sealant used to hold the original sump in place. Some GTRs have too much gasket material applied, which can come off upon installation at the factory, block the oil pickup and eventually starve the bottom end.

Here is the picture proof -


This is one reason we suggest GTR owners buy our WR35OP...it gives them/their workshop a chance to have a look at the oil pickup, which may save them thousands in the long run. Note we also use O-Ring seals for the new sump to stop this ever occurring in the future

[Hugo]

I'm feeling positive you can win this battle Alex.

Proof to strengthen your case is slowly dripping in from all over the world, nice!

[sam elassar]

alex, can i get a sample of the oil ?

it is very interesting what you say martin but should not that have an effect on oil pressure?

[gtr R33 lee]

Im shocked!

[Martin Donnon]

We do plenty of analysis on R35 engine oil....it was all part of our development program for our own WR35MO. At 100C the factory oil has less than 8cSt of viscosity and film strength to stop metal on metal contact at the bearing face. To give you an example of how different that is to our specification we have 15cSt, which in laymans terms is a ton more film strength.....and we do it for a very good reason!

Now take a low film strength oil that has shown - in our testing - to make bearing metal in a hard driven VR38DETT then shut the supply volume down somewhat. At 300km/h the last thing a driver will be looking for is flickers in the oil pressure gauge.

Demand to have a look at your oil pickup....unless they have already cleaned it. Another 'telltale' is to look at the factory oil pan and look for missing/broken off squashed bits of silicone on the inside edge of the pan (internal edge). They all only end up in one place

[gtr R33 lee]

Originally Posted by sam elassar

alex, can i get a sample of the oil ?

it is very interesting what you say martin but should not that have an effect on oil pressure?

Why wouldnt it have an effect on oil presure! Surely its like having fat in an artery leading to a conery!

[kismetcapitan]

to get 25 centistokes@100 degrees in the VR38, what engine oil are you using?

[sam elassar]

Originally Posted by gtr R33 lee

Why wouldnt it have an effect on oil presure! Surely its like having fat in an artery leading to a conery!

what i meant is affected cars maybe have a higher base line oil pressure and since all the cars come with the same oil pressure gauge maybe we can deduct which cars are more prone to failure?!

what does everyones oil presure at idle, 5000revs and 7000revs for example as obvioulsy oil pressure goes up with revs it will be more pronouced at higher revs

[Martin Donnon]

Originally Posted by kismetcapitan

to get 25 centistokes@100 degrees in the VR38, what engine oil are you using?

Add to that some GTRs are seeing up to 4% fuel dilution in the oil (they run very rich standard) which has shown (in the opinion of Blackstone laboratories in the US) to drop effective viscosity of the factory brew closer to 0w-20. Hope that helps.

[IRISH]

Originally Posted by Martin Donnon

We do plenty of analysis on R35 engine oil....it was all part of our development program for our own WR35MO. At 100C the factory oil has less than 8cSt of viscosity and film strength to stop metal on metal contact at the bearing face. To give you an example of how different that is to our specification we have 25cSt, which in laymans terms is over three times the film strength.....and we do it for a very good reason!

Now take a low film strength oil that has shown - in our testing - to make bearing metal in a hard driven VR38DETT then shut the supply volume down somewhat. At 300km/h the last thing a driver will be looking for is flickers in the oil pressure gauge.

Demand to have a look at your oil pickup....unless they have already cleaned it. Another 'telltale' is to look at the factory oil pan and look for missing/broken off squashed bits of silicone on the inside edge of the pan (internal edge). They all only end up in one place

Alex you could't be sure but this sounds like it could be something to do with your failure. The annoying thing about all these problems is when a company like Martins produces something to fix it, if gtr owners use it and something goes wrong with their car then Nissan will probably use it as an excuse to void the warranty!! It seems like a never ending circle os SH**!!!!

[Martin Donnon]

Originally Posted by kismetcapitan

to get 25 centistokes@100 degrees in the VR38, what engine oil are you using?

Sorry, went back to my lab sheets I was indeed closer the first time, the official figure for WR35MO is 22.5 cSt @ 100C....straight from the laboratory (been playing with DCT fluids today which are closer to 15 cSt)

[clint thrust]

Originally Posted by Jacey Boy

Thank **** I sold my GTR, just couldnt be doing with all this warranty crap and huge running costs, good ridens

You really are a ****

You should be banned off here you PITA. First it's WOHOO I'm getting a GT-R then it BOOO they are crap and will depreciate so fast you'll have to pay someone to take it away. THEN, it's WAHAAY pat me on the back I've re-ordered, aren't I clever. THEN 5 minutes after you have it you sell it and your straight back on slagging off this fantastic car.
Nobody has had a warranty claim yet on an unmolested car. We'll see what's what then. As for running costs WTF?. Why even buy it!.
I really hope they cough up and get this guys car fixed but you are a pariah on this site.