Thanks guys for the compliments!
Steve - it shines pretty much like dry carbon fiber, if you look for links via google (e.g.
Carbon Fiber Film ) you can get a better idea. As for applying clear lacquer, I tried 2 different kinds (in hidden spots), and it did NOT look right. It magnified the shine (but did not add any depth like a clearcoat). I think there is a video out there that shows this.
As for taking it off - what I did was apply the (optional) 3M primer to the splitter, then put the 3M film on. If I try to take it off now, there will probably be damage to the underlying paint (it was painted black before). So, if you want REVERSIBLE results, I would make sure to NOT use the primer, but then it's that much less secure.
N15M0, I was going to do a write up with photos on my blog over the next few days (so please check back in a few days) but here are the basics:
1) I practiced on my plastic door sill, just to get a feel (so yes, should practice).
Door sill was easy (looks warped due to angle of shot), hardest part was using my fingernails to scribe around the SKYLINE lettering to make sure it showed up, and also the horizonal strakes too.
Splitter:
2) I cut a sheet the entire length of the splitter, plus about 5 cm extra on each side.
3) Since I don't know what I'm doing, I took off HALF of the backing paper (the one piece is so large it would have been a problem to have the whole piece sticky), and started by applying to the center bit.
4) I then tried (but failed) to apply to the smooth sides - so I ended up very carefully applying OVER the intake holes, then finished the sides.
5) I then cut the sheet where the holes are, estimating how the material would lay/fit in the holes. For example, I figured that most people would be viewing from the top, so purposely tried to get the longest bits to fold onto the bottom, and cut the top piece so it would wrap around the top part - just.
6) I had to apply heat at the bends. Worked fine on the rather simple bends on both sides of the center piece, but the intake holes were very tricky. So, if you look closely, the carbon pattern is stretched significantly in those areas.
7) There are techniques to splice and meld the pieces together. Unfortunately, I'm not that clever. So, close inspection on these holes will show it's not pretty. But, I plan to go back and fix.
8) Lessons -
a) make sure the surface is ABSOLUTELY clean before you apply. If a piece of dust gets caught in there, it WILL show as a bump.
b) Practice the splice technique.
c) Air bubbles are not a problem, because with a heat gun, you can reapply several times (and smooth out in the process)
d) the heat gun helps to activate the glue so it's stickier - it also works to stretch the fabric around corners. But, don't count on the glue to work when you have over stretched, the material MAY come off.
Total time on the side sill - about 20 minutes.
Total time on the splitter - about 3.5 hours (not including removal from car and spraying on the primer)! By the time I was done, as I had done this on the floor, my butt and lower back were killing me! Not to mention my fingers were slightly raw from the heat from the hair dryer.
Edit - I will have better pics up on the blog. These were taken with my cell phone...