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carbon centre blade / vinyl

5K views 26 replies 14 participants last post by  Wade 
#1 ·
Hi all,

I really quite fancy a carbon fibre centre blade for my r33.

I will probably get flamed for this but anyone used this SALE: 3M DI-NOC Carbon Fiber Vinyl Prices Slashed 63% For One Week | Carbon Fiber Gear

Don't get me wrong would rather have real carbon but if looks and feels the same, thats money that can go elsewhere on the car in my book.

It is purely for cosmetic purposes

Seems to get good reviews, so is it any good or I am best off giving it the swerve.

Cheers

Steve
 
#3 ·
Steve - I've used the 3M stuff on my front splitter, here is what it looks like.



It's very easy to apply, just google and do some research first. (as you can see this was halfway through my application). The splitter was showing some wear, and rather than repaint, I decided to give this a try.

Benefits -
1) cheaper than real carbon
2) if it flakes or wears off, easy to reapply
3) looks cool
4) easy to apply with lots of patience and a hair dryer.

Drawbacks -
1) I singed my fingers during the apply process
2) Curves/joints require practice
3) It's not real carbon

That being said - the look is DRY carbon. I ALSO have a WET carbon rear blade probably similar to the one Matty is offering. (so my car has a mixed carbon look?? the purists are probably cringing...)

Benefits to the wet carbon
1) It's real carbon
2) Clearcoated, so you can wash/wax it and not worry
3) Don't have to worry about it peeling off
4) You don't have to spend a few hours applying the 3M stuff.
5) mine has a built in "gurney flap" so technically, might perform better than the regular blade

Drawbacks
1) Costs more money than the DIY approach
2) not much of a weight difference with the regular blade.


There IS a DRY carbon blade available on occassion (I think Nismo?), but it is 10x as expensive, so not worth it if only for looks.

HTH
 
#4 ·
Thanks bud for the write up. Looks good on the splitter.

Some good points worth considering there.

Does it shine at all when the light hits it? Have you tried applying a lacquer at all?

Considering how cheap it is I might give it go, if it looks pony can always take it back off.

Regards

Steve
 
#10 · (Edited)
Thanks guys for the compliments!

Steve - it shines pretty much like dry carbon fiber, if you look for links via google (e.g.
Carbon Fiber Film ) you can get a better idea. As for applying clear lacquer, I tried 2 different kinds (in hidden spots), and it did NOT look right. It magnified the shine (but did not add any depth like a clearcoat). I think there is a video out there that shows this.

As for taking it off - what I did was apply the (optional) 3M primer to the splitter, then put the 3M film on. If I try to take it off now, there will probably be damage to the underlying paint (it was painted black before). So, if you want REVERSIBLE results, I would make sure to NOT use the primer, but then it's that much less secure.

N15M0, I was going to do a write up with photos on my blog over the next few days (so please check back in a few days) but here are the basics:

1) I practiced on my plastic door sill, just to get a feel (so yes, should practice).

Door sill was easy (looks warped due to angle of shot), hardest part was using my fingernails to scribe around the SKYLINE lettering to make sure it showed up, and also the horizonal strakes too.

Splitter:
2) I cut a sheet the entire length of the splitter, plus about 5 cm extra on each side.

3) Since I don't know what I'm doing, I took off HALF of the backing paper (the one piece is so large it would have been a problem to have the whole piece sticky), and started by applying to the center bit.

4) I then tried (but failed) to apply to the smooth sides - so I ended up very carefully applying OVER the intake holes, then finished the sides.

5) I then cut the sheet where the holes are, estimating how the material would lay/fit in the holes. For example, I figured that most people would be viewing from the top, so purposely tried to get the longest bits to fold onto the bottom, and cut the top piece so it would wrap around the top part - just.

6) I had to apply heat at the bends. Worked fine on the rather simple bends on both sides of the center piece, but the intake holes were very tricky. So, if you look closely, the carbon pattern is stretched significantly in those areas.

7) There are techniques to splice and meld the pieces together. Unfortunately, I'm not that clever. So, close inspection on these holes will show it's not pretty. But, I plan to go back and fix.

8) Lessons -
a) make sure the surface is ABSOLUTELY clean before you apply. If a piece of dust gets caught in there, it WILL show as a bump.
b) Practice the splice technique.
c) Air bubbles are not a problem, because with a heat gun, you can reapply several times (and smooth out in the process)
d) the heat gun helps to activate the glue so it's stickier - it also works to stretch the fabric around corners. But, don't count on the glue to work when you have over stretched, the material MAY come off.

Total time on the side sill - about 20 minutes.

Total time on the splitter - about 3.5 hours (not including removal from car and spraying on the primer)! By the time I was done, as I had done this on the floor, my butt and lower back were killing me! Not to mention my fingers were slightly raw from the heat from the hair dryer.

Edit - I will have better pics up on the blog. These were taken with my cell phone...
 
#11 ·
Awesome stuff - thanks very much for sharing akasakaR33, I'll definitely keep an eye out for your blog too. Top stuff!!!

I really fancy having a go at this now. Would anyone on here (traders?) possibly be up for doing a group buy of this stuff? Not really done any research into where to buy it yet etc..

Failing that, I'll get some off fleabay, and post up pics of my attempts - love a little project like this! :cool:
 
#21 ·
#12 ·
Guys - as I can see this gaining some interest - I found some higher res photos that I will post now.

Here is the material itself, and a close up of the practice piece


And here is a slightly better shot of the splitter - unfinished, you can see how I wrapped the intakes before cutting them out:


As promised, will try to get the step by step photos (and how it looks on the car, fitted) up on the blog tomorrow.
 
#23 · (Edited)
Thanks Nori.

Well, putting aside the removal and reinstallation, I'd say -
1 hour for prep (sanding, etc.), 30min-1 hour for the primer to dry, then 3-4hours for the wrap itself. Once you begin wrapping (the paper backing is off) you're committed...so take your time prepping, get a good nights sleep, then wrap! :)
 
#26 ·
I carbon wrapped a few interior bits.... Fiddly on sharp corners but has held up pretty well considering it was my first attempt.

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/1252300-post23.html

But for the rear spoiler, had to get a Jap carbon wavy wing rather than just wrapping the original... Haven't got any pics of it though :nervous: .... only this one from Speed Merchant. Will try and add one of the weave over the weekend :thumbsup:



Cheers :).
 
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