Sway bar kits...who has them? Feedback?

[Arcam]

Originally Posted by charles charlie

You're just making it up Ed.....

DOH! You sussed it out

[Arcam]

Originally Posted by Radical1

Cheers Eddie, I am on Toyo's with OEM camber settings. Being serviced by Litchfield next week and they are going to add in some negative camber. So you reckon just changing the rear ARB then, any particluar brand - which do you use ??

Re driving techniques, I was prob guilty of driving the GTR like my old SR3, bloody fast in, bloody fast around and even faster out - the wonders of zero weight and downforce !!

If I was in the market for new ARBs I would without doubt get the Stillen one(s), the build quality and end links are first class, if a little costly!

Iain stocks the Whiteline ARBs and that is your best bang for your buck if funds are a little tight and you can at least make sure the bar is the correct size before driving off, but I would also get the end stops and links.

But with more negative camber you will find the turn in much imporved and if you revise your driving style you may well find you don't need to have an uprated bar fitted.

[Arcam]

Originally Posted by sumo69

Eddie - are you thinking of doing any driver training?
D

Giving or receiving David

I have some time booked with Colin at the Ring in 10 days time

[Stevie76]

Eddie will more neg camber drastically affect tyre wear for normal road conditions? Thinking sway bars might dial out understeer and not kill the front tyres?

[Arcam]

Originally Posted by Stevie76

Eddie will more neg camber drastically affect tyre wear for normal road conditions? Thinking sway bars might dial out understeer and not kill the front tyres?

That's a valid point Stevie, the inner edge of the tyre will wear faster the more negative camber you add, I go through tyres like mad ( I wear the outsides more) so it is not a real issue for me, if you do a load of track days more camber works out fine, but you need to keep within reasonable limits (no more than 2 degrees neg) with a little toe in (0.03in) per side works out great, any more than that and you run the risk of localised overheating of the tyres which can cause a failure, if you want a half way house setting for camber stick to around 1,30 to 1,45 max neg, same toe settings but on track you will cane the outside of the tyre when pushing hard.

I have never run a different ARB so can't comment with authority on how well it works, but others have and they seem happy going down that route.

[Chubby]

I have noticed that some people have been happy with the new ARB's, but have you tried different combinations of set up as all seem to have at least 2 different holes on the ends..

Can you post your individual set ups please - or pm me if you want to keep them quite.

R.

[Radical1]

I ran my Eibach ARB's at Spa for the first time a few weeks ago. Softest of the 2 settings on the front and the 2nd softest of 5 settings on the rear. Definitely much less understeer and far more stable but next time I am on track I will try a stiffer setting on rear to see if that neutralises the understeer further. Those are the settings Litchfield suggested and it worked well but it's all a but trial and error at the moment as more track time is needed to find best set up. Interesrted to hear from others running the Eibach's.

[Chubby]

I thought about the Eibach ones but the rear is hollow I believe, which doesn't quite work for rigidity - so have gone for the solid ones - so are you saying that you have two holes / settings on the front and 5 holes / settings on the back and if so from the out in which holes were used ?

Rich.

[David.Yu]

Originally Posted by Chubby

I thought about the Eibach ones but the rear is hollow I believe, which doesn't quite work for rigidity - so have gone for the solid ones - so are you saying that you have two holes / settings on the front and 5 holes / settings on the back and if so from the out in which holes were used ?

Rich.

Not sure I follow about the rigidity? Surely all that matters is how much stiffer the effective "spring" rate is, i.e. how much it resists twisting?
A lot of set ups use hollow bars as they resist twisting, but are of course a fair bit lighter.

[Chubby]

If your not aware I'm 98% sure I'm stripping the R35 out - atempting to lose 200 kgs or more and upping the power and torque.

the problem I have at the moment is body roll and am trying to gauge what setting are best for the car in near normal weight - suspension, gear box upgrade, power upgrade and cooling will be on the cards over the next few months - all of which will be listed when I decide who is doing what to what.

Rich.

[Radical1]

Eibach's are about 90% stiffer than OEM - see Iain's advert a few months ago, that gives you the comparison's on all the different settings, you can also see it on his website. All I can say is that they are a food improvement on standard and body-roll is far less, i.e. they work.

[Chubby]

oh I totally agree with them being stiffer than OEM but I need rock solid at the mo - it might change with the race suspension, but this car will not be back on the road in this spec and will be a lot lighter in every respect.

David - not wanting to get into technical arguements - but surely rigid is stiffer than hollow?

Rich.

[Chubby]

Did anyone upgrade the links as well - as I don't think Eibach do drop links??

Rich.

[Radical1]

Nope, Eibach's don't have drop links, just come with bushes and grease. A kit with drop-links seems to be £1000+. IMO, the gain you get from Eibach's at £550 is just about worth the money. Can't see that spending another £500 is worth any extra ounce of performance you might get.....

[Chubby]

Unfortunatly - any gain is worth it on my side - although £500 for some drop links seems very expensive as Whiteline are slightly cheaper.

Per example..... £10k on brake upgrade, £18k on engine and gear box mods - next will be race suspension and possible a new brake kit costing £15k on it's own..

So for me every little extra helps, however small. Trouble is finding the right one.... lol

Rich.