Timing Belt Advice

[TriniGT]

Okay I know I am gonna get flamed for this but I jumped the gun on my project and began scrapping the exterior engine items and also in so doing while trying to get to the oil pump I had to remove my timing belt and crank gear. Problem now is that I did not set the cam gears to the markers and the crank appropriately. Any advice as I cannot say for certain that the crank is at the same position since I removed it, it is definitely not been turned more than a couple of teether on the flywheel side so what are my options? Will it be necessary to remove the head and ensure that cylinder 1 is a TDC and then ensure that the cam gears are at the markers before torquing it back or can I do something else to get everything back where it should be? I currently have the sump off so was wondering if I can somehow turn the crank and manually turn the gears to get it set or should I just swap back on the front crank gear without the oil pump and rotate the entire assembly until it is at the markers? Any advice is greatly appreciated, yes I know I made a huge mistake but need to correct it. I have parts on order for the engine so I am waiting for those to be shipped in, gasket kit, adjustable gears, tensioner stud, water hard tubes, tensioner and idler pullies, new timing belt, coolant and vacuum lines etc so wanted to get things prepped for assembly.

[nissan junky]

Are you changing the oil pump? personally id just build it all back up and worry about setting up the timing marks when your ready to refit the belt, as the cambelt pulley on the crank isnt quite the easiest thing to keep fitting and taking off, aslong as u dont spin the crank round lots and damage the valves it will be fine, when i rebuilt my engine the crank and cams were way off the marks, and i just moved them to the correct marks when i was ready to fit the cam belt

[TriniGT]

Yeah but I am worried that adjusting the crank without adjusting both the gears equally will result in bending valves which I am not prepared to deal with.

[pupsi]

If you feel resistance when turning the crank by hand, turn the cams too, that way you shouldn't be bending any valves.

[R.I.P.S NZ]

You shouldn't need to turn the crank to change the oil pump.

The cams have knotches out of them to allow access to the head studs, keep the knotches verticle and you'll also see the marks on the cam gears will line up (unless your 180deg out then you'll be on aprox tdc firing No6)

The flats on the oil pump drive are machined verticle relative to tdc No1 and No6 so if you have the cam knotches as described above and the flats on the crank verticle as long as you havn't turned the cams alot relative to the crank at any stage, your crank/pistons will be in the correct relationship to the valves.

If you have turned the crank more or you just don't know where everything is, gently turn the crank clockwise untill the flats are around 30 degrees btdc, make sure if you feel any resistance STOP and turn the cams to free it up and keep going untill you get the flats are around 30 degrees btdc, once there, your safe to turn the cams together (a little on one, a little on the other) untill you get the knotches verticle with No6 lobes on the rock. (this now has the cams correct for tdc firing No1)

Then turn the crank till the flats are verticle and you'll be on the money for your cam timing but obviously check the factory marks as you fit the belt.

It might sound a bit involved, its a bit hard to explain but its really very easy and if your gentle and "feel" as you go you won't do any harm,

Rob

[TriniGT]

Thanks a million Rob, a guy on Skyline Australia mentioned this as well, it is a bit clearer now. I will take my time and do this and see the outcome. Thanks everyone for their input.