Guys that have removed your ABS

[Terrh]

So I took the ABS pump out of my GTR and redid my brake lines accordingly.

What wires do I have to loop to keep the 4WD working?

[GT-R Glenn]

None

[Terrh]

That's awesome! I was under the impression that the system relied on some stuff in the ABS (wheel speed sensors maybe?) and the wires needed to be looped to keep the stock 4WD functional.

[GT-R Glenn]

No, you said you removed the abs pump & then ran new lines ( hopefully with a bias adjuster) the attessa will still work perfect.
I did mine 10 years ago, never altered any wiring / still going strong ...

[Terrh]

Originally Posted by GT-R Glenn

No, you said you removed the abs pump & then ran new lines ( hopefully with a bias adjuster) the attessa will still work perfect.
I did mine 10 years ago, never altered any wiring / still going strong ...

Awesome! That's good to hear. I was really worried about that.

Yeah I did put an adjustable prop valve for the rears. I don't have enough posts to add the URL apparently but it's the one on summit racing for $40. SUM-G3905 is the part number.
I wanted the adjustability in case I would need it when going back and forth between street tires and slicks.

I also changed all the brakes (front and rear) to R34 GTR ones.

I haven't driven the car a foot since I did all this so I have no idea how the pedal will feel or where I'll need to set that valve to but that's all stuff I can deal with once it's running.

Thanks for the information.

[freakazoid3]

If it's a 32 upgrade the OEM brake master to a 33 or 34 one to get the correct bias and a much more firm brake pedal
You'll be in for a nice stopping-surprise

[cory]

Originally Posted by freakazoid3

If it's a 32 upgrade the OEM brake master to a 33 or 34 one to get the correct bias and a much more firm brake pedal
You'll be in for a nice stopping-surprise

i'm trying to remove the abs on my car...its a r33 gtr do i need to get a proportioning valve or can i just re route my lines and use a tee for the front.

thanks

[freakazoid3]

Just a reroute and T piece for the front will do

[cory]

Thanks just what I was lookin for

[Terrh]

redid the brake lines through a prop valve. Using stock BNR32 M/C with a flex stopper.

With the adjustable proportioning valve I found that if I just left it alone (no changes to bias over what comes out of the M/C) it works just fine, the rears never want to lock before the fronts.

[TJB]

Originally Posted by Terrh

redid the brake lines through a prop valve. Using stock BNR32 M/C with a flex stopper.

With the adjustable proportioning valve I found that if I just left it alone (no changes to bias over what comes out of the M/C) it works just fine, the rears never want to lock before the fronts.

same here , no prop valve , no problems.. although after 1 'giddy' lap of the
'ring' a couple of weeks back , all the discs are scrap..!..

[Bardabe]

Originally Posted by TJB

same here , no prop valve , no problems.. although after 1 'giddy' lap of the
'ring' a couple of weeks back , all the discs are scrap..!..

pretty much same here, I took the brakes off my Vspec R33, installed them on my Z32 (California and their rules about imports suck) took them out on the roadcourse and now the rear disk are scrap... waiting to ship parts from the UK and JDM land sucks.