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#1 (permalink) |
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Trev
is Team Sheldrake Racing
GTROC Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Cars owned: 505 BHP R33GTST
Posts: 4,572
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Greddy stainless manifold cracking problem!
Wonder if anyone has a cure for manifold cracks?
My Greddy TD06 kit stainless manifold has cracked for the fourth time now and is getting to the verge of me binning it - only a desperate lack of ££££ has saved its life! Having had it wielded 3 times and cut in half (block facing) to spread the load of the turbo weight, I'm at a complete loss as what the next move (other than wielding again) to stop it happening again. I hear "wrapping" is a bad idea but can it be "coated" in heat resistant material etc? Any ideas?
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#2 (permalink) |
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HeavyDuty
is glad everyone hates the R33.
Executive GTR Owners Club Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Stateside
Posts: 268
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You could fashion a steel bar relief strap welded to the turbo flange then over to an existing bolt hole in the head or block. I've seen them made over the top or under as a cantilever. I wouldn't do it to a new manifold, but if you're ready to bin it, it couldn't hurt.
.02
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#3 (permalink) |
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Trev
is Team Sheldrake Racing
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Cars owned: 505 BHP R33GTST
Posts: 4,572
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Not a chance mate, I've seen blocks get cracked in extreme cases of braces to block instances!
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#4 (permalink) |
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HeavyDuty
is glad everyone hates the R33.
Executive GTR Owners Club Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Stateside
Posts: 268
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Wow! Well, just curious, how's that any different than the manifold & turbo hanging off the head?
Since you're dead set against a cantilever, is there enough room to weld a strain relief strap from the turbo flange to the manifold flange? Anything to take a little load off of the pipes themselves. It's hard to believe tubular manifolds last for any time at all given the weight, leverage & heat.
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#6 (permalink) |
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TAZZMAXX
is hoping for the best but expecting the worst
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Staffordshire
Cars owned: R35 GTR
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Stainless steel hates high frequency vibration. Guess what sort of vibration a turbo generates. A header that is made from nominal bore pipe rather than thin wall tube maybe better but you then have the added weight and strain on the manifold studs. Also, once you start doing weld repairs, you'll never stop doing them. I've repaired no end of pump pipework that has failed like this and it's a losing battle, believe me. Stainless steel isn't the be all and end all like some people think.
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#7 (permalink) |
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R32 Combat
is in limbo
Spannering again.
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Stainless steel reacts with carbon at high temperatures, goes brittle and cracks.
If you weld stainless steel,you need to use the correct grade of welding wire or filler. Then you need to heat treat it after it's been welded. It's a bad choice of material.
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#8 (permalink) |
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neilo
is N01
GTR Register Trader
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Essex
Cars owned: UK R34 GTR V-SPEC
Posts: 2,612
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Not the cheap option but i could have you a bespoke Inconel manifold made performs well up to 1000 degrees C, 200 degrees more than stainless. Still would always advise a turbo and wastgate crane/support.
Cheers Neil ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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#10 (permalink) |
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Trev
is Team Sheldrake Racing
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Join Date: Nov 2003
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Seeing as this was part of the TD06 25G kit I didn't have a choice of manifold!
It's been on the car since 2004 and cracked 3 times now, so a brace (in the right way) and another wield is the only option then with the current manifold?
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#12 (permalink) |
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freak4speed
is upgrading to RB30 soon
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I've had 2 Greddy manifolds on my GTS-t and they boyh split at the collection area just below the twin port flange. I think they need bracing to hold the weight of a big single turbo. exhaust and external wastegate and screamer pipe on it and there must be a fair bit of high frequency vibration fron the turbo and from the exhaust gasses coming from the engine.
They could probably do with some reinforcement just under the turbo flange where the different pieces of pipe are welded together.
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#13 (permalink) |
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RIDGEY46
is an MB Automotive fan boi!
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Join Date: Feb 2007
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No manner of bracing and welding will rescue the manifold. I have a Greddy TD06 20g on my 200SX and the manifold has just cracked for the 3rd time. I took it to Hayward and Scott and they welded it up for me. As they were welding it it was cracking. I asked them about braces etc and they told me that unfortunately the material is so crap you'll never be able to stop the cracking with braces. So it's not even the weight and vibration that cracks them it's the heat generated. I asked them how much they'd want for making a new one, £1200
I bought this kit 2nd hand and it didn't cost me that much. I'm not sure what to do now myself. My car is used on track a fair bit so I can't see it lasting too long.
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#14 (permalink) | |
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Trev
is Team Sheldrake Racing
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Quote:
This is what I have been saying! (No one seemed to listen). Sadly, I bought the kit new in 2004 and paid £3700 for the kit!!! So it seems, only real answer is to buy another.
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#15 (permalink) |
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R.I.P.S NZ
is happy with a mild mannered 8.51 @ 163 in MGAWOT II
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We've had no problems with stainless manifolds cracking and we always support the manifold if a medium to large turbo is being used, the trick is to support the weight without stopping it from moving all together.
Rob
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