How do I de-restrict my GTR?

[DAN00H]

Originally Posted by FULLY SIC

ONYEA DANOOH!!
I got my liner with the restrictor removed and it has hammered around
for ages and i suspect for a long time before me.
Why would nissan fit a simple brass plug with a hole in it,in a hose with a yellow band on it,that can be easly removed by the most unmechanical of owners and give 1 bar boost if it wasent safe to do so? The factory GTR ecu is mapped to run this level of boost,unlike the factory
GTST ecu.It won't run 1bar(even if a bleed valve is fitted) and there is no easy brass plug to remove or marked hose. It requires a rechip or change of ecu.
just my 2 psi.
FREE THE BOOST!!

cheers mate - agree whith what you say

[DAN00H]

Originally Posted by Abbey M/S

When we used to do the Eprom up-grades for the BNR32 and BCNR33 GTR,s we used to drill the restrictor out to between 2.7mm and 3.1 mm to get 1 bar of boost.


If any wants to lend us a car we will run it on the dyno to do a test to sort this thread out.

We are not biased to try and sell equipment just want you people to have fun in your cars not blowing motors up.

interesting you should mention that mark - seeing as none of us has raised it... yet.

I've had my car on the dyno for testing and with it didn't go over 1 bar with the restirctor removed. Again - I know of no car in Aust with this mod going over 1 bar.

quote from above....
If you remove the restrictor completely the next restriction that controls the boost is the standard boost control valve and from memeory this is around 5 to 6 mm We know from many hourson the dyno removing the restictor will allow the car to produce more than 1.0 bar of boost

so are you saying that you still use the restrictor with an aftermarket EBC?!?!?!

[DAN00H]

Originally Posted by terribleone

That answers that then for me.

Thanks Hugh, Abbey.

just pull out the restirictor... you DON'T need the EBC for up to 1 bar. rason I got the EBC, is so that I can run MORE than the 1 bar.....

Mark and Hugh - what does the stock boost control soleniod do??? it differs from an aftermarket EBC, as the EBC is adjustable.

Again, respect for you guys who know skylines , but airing my thoughts / opinions

[Hugh Keir]

DAN00H,

My guess that you have been able to remove your restrictor and not go above 1 bar is that your turbo's wastegate actuators are weak enough to conveniently open the wastegate at 1 bar.

To assume that others have a similarly weak set-up is not good advice especially as the ceramic wheel on the standard turbo is not able to withstand abuse.

The purpose of the jet is to assist in controlling the flow of air away from the actuator circuit.

If you block the jet off completely, you will get all the boost pressure going to your actuator which will in turn open it early resulting in ~ .6 bar boost on a standard R34 the last time I tried it.

As Mark said earlier, if you start to open the jet out it will increase the boost.

All of the above will only work when the standard boost controller has been removed from the actuator circuit.

After market boost controllers work by bleeding the air from the turbo actuator circuit by using a technique referred to as PWM ( pulse width modulation) or SMR ( switch mode regulation) which means that a solenoid valve is switched on and off at a rate that creates a leakage in the actuator circuit to mimic the drilling out of the mechanical jet as described by Mark.

[Abbey M/S]

Hugh,

cheers for backing me up.

As I said the "standard boost control soleniod" not a boost controller.

DANOOH I agree witrh Hugh your wastegates have gone soft so even without a bleed your car will not produce over 1 bar or your turbo,s are worn out so they are unable to produce more than 1 bar boost.

Mark

[gtr mart]

I have a growing hunch that DANOOH is in fact 15 years old.

[FULLY SIC]

Its hard to argue with people who spend all day working with all types of skylines because they know what they are talking about.
BUT there must be a lot of soft wastegates/worn turbos in Australia and New Zeland.
This is a very common mod here (with no known medivacs to the turbo ER).

With the AVCR turned off , I get .6ish bar boost and turned on, have it set on 1.0bar and 1.1bar.
Before fitting AVCR it held 1bar with restrictor removed.
How do I test the actuators?
Does it matter as the actuators are now 'slaves' to the AVCR?
Still waiting on answers for...
Why would nissan fit a simple brass plug with a hole in it,in a hose with a yellow band on it,that can be easly removed by the most unmechanical of owners and give 1 bar boost if it wasent safe to do so? The factory GTR ecu is mapped to run this level of boost,unlike the factory
GTST ecu.It won't run 1bar(even if a bleed valve is fitted) and there is no easy brass plug to remove or marked hose. It requires a rechip or change of ecu.

[DAN00H]

Originally Posted by gtr mart

I have a growing hunch that DANOOH is in fact 15 years old.

ha ha ha - step up to the plate any time you are ready....

as fully sic mentioned, there must be a LOT of cars with stuffed turbos eh Mark and Hugh. Obviously when a product is there to be sold, then the sellers will always say the something else doesn't work.

There are even some good supporting articles written on ththe removal of the restrictor.

As for the explanination on the process of the EBC - I was taking the ****. we all know how they work....

What surprises me the most is all these UK GTRs owners that can't, or won't run 1 bar with the brass restrictor removed. I repeat from ALL the GTR owners on the australian skyline site (SAU) - I've NEVER heard, seen, experienced anything untoward by removing the restrictor.

It is widely know as THE first mod, along with exhaust and air filter/ pods.

So what you are saying is we are ALL driving cars with either dead turbos (hmm, mine made 308rwhp) or they are only minutes away from destruction!!!!

What are the cases you experienced where cars had turbo failure when the restrictor was removed???? or is it just speculation?

oh - and like fully sic said re the ECU mapping.

[gtr mart]

Originally Posted by danooh

ha ha ha - step up to the plate any time you are ready....

Funny.

I had my restrictor drilled out to run 1 bar - in theory if the restrictor was drilled bigger or totally removed then my engine would have made more power.

Interesting that you made 308 hp - assuming this is at the hubs, then this sounds about right for a stage one on only 1 bar. If your car was making more than 1 bar (ie the 1.3 bar) then one would have expected more power to be made.

Is the 308 hp figure at the hubs or wheels?

[JasonO]

DANOOH,

The guys giving advice here are respected members of the UK community, and you're a 'wannabe' Ozzie interlouper with a couple of posts under your belt. Chill out, and realise the sensible advice in this thread.

Oh and FYI, Mark could turn this entire thread into an advertisment for his business if he so wished, and it would be fully endorsed by the admin of the site. So respect his professionalism, and let off the attitude of superiority before I get annoyed with you.

Hugh,
I recall being with you at Crail, in the blue R34, testing with the resitrictor drilled out....you naughty boy.

[DAN00H]

Originally Posted by gtr mart

Funny.

I had my restrictor drilled out to run 1 bar - in theory if the restrictor was drilled bigger or totally removed then my engine would have made more power.

Interesting that you made 308 hp - assuming this is at the hubs, then this sounds about right for a stage one on only 1 bar. If your car was making more than 1 bar (ie the 1.3 bar) then one would have expected more power to be made.

Is the 308 hp figure at the hubs or wheels?

gtr mart - It made the 308 at the wheels on a dyno dynamics dyno in shootout mode (not sure what brand you guys have over there). this was on 1 bar - restrictor removed. on the day, we had about 6 gtrs on the dyno and the power for the stockers running the restrictor removed was very close to that mark. there was also one running 2530's (+ the associated mods that go along with them) which made 400hp and one other stock turbo GTR that was running 18psi (crazy, I know!!) which only made ~ 320hp (he blew the turbos about 4 weeks later!).

oh, we also has had a freashly imported older 300 zed that had an N1 engine, 2.7 and a pair of trust turbos (can't remember size) - made 650 hp, and has since made 690! that is a fun car

Cheers

[DAN00H]

Originally Posted by JasonO

DANOOH,

The guys giving advice here are respected members of the UK community, and you're a 'wannabe' Ozzie interlouper with a couple of posts under your belt. Chill out, and realise the sensible advice in this thread.

Oh and FYI, Mark could turn this entire thread into an advertisment for his business if he so wished, and it would be fully endorsed by the admin of the site. So respect his professionalism, and let off the attitude of superiority before I get annoyed with you.

Hugh,
I recall being with you at Crail, in the blue R34, testing with the resitrictor drilled out....you naughty boy.

I here you jason

[Yunis A]

tell me more about this dude links to any oz sites?

Originally Posted by DAN00H

ha ha ha - step up to the plate any time you are ready....

as fully sic mentioned, there must be a LOT of cars with stuffed turbos eh Mark and Hugh. Obviously when a product is there to be sold, then the sellers will always say the something else doesn't work.

There are even some good supporting articles written on ththe removal of the restrictor.

As for the explanination on the process of the EBC - I was taking the ****. we all know how they work....

What surprises me the most is all these UK GTRs owners that can't, or won't run 1 bar with the brass restrictor removed. I repeat from ALL the GTR owners on the australian skyline site (SAU) - I've NEVER heard, seen, experienced anything untoward by removing the restrictor.

It is widely know as THE first mod, along with exhaust and air filter/ pods.

So what you are saying is we are ALL driving cars with either dead turbos (hmm, mine made 308rwhp) or they are only minutes away from destruction!!!!

What are the cases you experienced where cars had turbo failure when the restrictor was removed???? or is it just speculation?

oh - and like fully sic said re the ECU mapping.

[Hugh Keir]

Originally Posted by Hugh Keir

If you block the jet off completely, you will get all the boost pressure going to your actuator which will in turn open it early resulting in ~ .6 bar boost on a standard R34 the last time I tried it.

As Mark said earlier, if you start to open the jet out it will increase the boost.

All of the above will only work when the standard boost controller has been removed from the actuator circuit.

My guess is that there was too much hot air and not enough reading of the information being provided.

The note above about the standard boost controller has been removed from the actuator circuit being of particular relevance.

[GUNR33]

im after boost between 11-12 psi. What size jet do i use?

Mods il have is a higher flowing panel filter, and catback exhaust