Boling water in hose Pump -> Radiator *HELP* - GT-R Register - Official Nissan Skyline and GTR Owners Club forum

humanizer · 17th July 2005, 08:56 AM

Hi,

I just bought my mint con. Nissan skyline R32 GT-R -93 with 7890Km. After driving it with no problems at all i opened the hood and checked everyting after a long motorway run. And i felt on the hose between the radiator and waterpump. It felt like the water was boiling.

Talk about Fear. I remember the guy i bought it from talked about air in the watersystem because he had run with low, not empty, but low waterlevel in the "waterholder"

When i open the cap there isnt any pressure. No Phhyyy. And there arnt any bubbles either. But shouldnt there be a pressure? The car runs great. The water temrature is stable in the middle of the scale. It has a stable idle at around 900RPM.

What ca be wrong? Head gasket? Waterpumps dead?

Pleas help!!

NigelR32 · 17th July 2005, 10:02 AM

Could just be an air lock. Theres a screw on the Balance pipe, near the injectors. If you remove this ENGINE COLD!!!, you should get rid of the trapped air.

Regards

humanizer · 17th July 2005, 10:16 AM

Ohh! Thanks. I really hope so. I will check it soon. I really, really hope it is just air!! Thanks again mate!

Jim27 · 17th July 2005, 11:18 AM

Check the rad expansion tank for oil and the oil cap thingy for mayo. If none then it may well be an airlockas most people suspect in this case. But IMHO I'd put money on a cracked head, especially of it been run with a low coolant level and air in the system as the coolant will have just boiled where it was rather than being pumped around, and the air pockets will have become superheated.

Check the rad top pipe - there is a kink in it where air will collect and effectively boil through the rubber of the hose...

humanizer · 17th July 2005, 04:00 PM

There is no kink/mayo in the oil cap. And there is no oil in the water. The motor runs fine and there is no other signs of problem. So i hope there is a airlock in the system that hasnt ruined the cylinder head.

But why is there no pressure when i release the cap on the water holder?

humanizer · 17th July 2005, 09:32 PM

Do you mean the top radiator pipe?

Durzel · 18th July 2005, 09:28 AM

After reading this thread I thought I'd have a look around the engine to find this bleed nut because I'd never heard of it (

) and found it, although there appears to be two nuts there - one with an allen key hole, and a regular nut.

Which one do you undo to release trapped air?

EDIT: Found out (thanks Gary) its the hexagonal bolt (one that faces the wing)

Jim27 · 19th July 2005, 11:57 AM

The one with the stciker under it that says CAUTION DO NOT OPEN WITH ENGINE RUNNING or similar

humanizer · 20th July 2005, 04:15 PM

Now I have tried to change the water. Ive done everything as the manual say. When I run at idle til the watertemp goes to the middle i stop the car and feel the hoses. The upper hose (where it boiled before) is really warm. The hose down under is ice cold. The top of the radiator is warm. The rest is cold. Why!! The water dont seem to circulate. Can it be the waterpump? och the thermostat? What can be wrong? And where do I order parts? I live in sweden. But UK should be ok.

I cant get no warmth of the heatersystem either.

Please help

NigelR32 · 20th July 2005, 05:23 PM

Hello mate,

It sounds very much like a thermostat issue, or quite possibly a blocked radiator. The water is pumped around the engine and out through the top hose, and back into the block through the bottom hose.

Did you remove the Air bleed screw when you filled it?

I think I would first remove both hoses from the Rad, and see if it flows properly. Then I'd remove the Thermostat and check it, in a saucepan with a thermometer.

I once had a similar problem on a Porsche 944, it turned out to be the thermostat. You can get a Nismo thermostat on E-bay, from the USA.

I'd seriously run the car for a few hours with no thermostat fitted though, just to see if she runs ok, or still gets hot. You will find that the engine will warm up fine round town, but will get cooler if you go on the freeway.

Hope this helps

Regards

humanizer · 20th July 2005, 10:06 PM

Thanks! I did release the bleed screw when I filled her up. I will try to removet the thermostat. The strangest thing about all this, is that i get a stable watertemp on the gauge. But obviously not in the engine.

Regards
Johnny

NigelR32 · 21st July 2005, 05:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by humanizer

Thanks! I did release the bleed screw when I filled her up. I will try to removet the thermostat. The strangest thing about all this, is that i get a stable watertemp on the gauge. But obviously not in the engine.

Regards
Johnny

Good old R32 Gauges!!!

Regards

humanizer · 23rd July 2005, 02:17 PM

The Thermostat seems to open when i boil it. The radiator seems to flow. Maybe it is the head gasket then, or even a cracked head !?!? =(((((((( I will try to run it without thermostat anyways. Just to see.

humanizer · 24th July 2005, 12:17 AM

I have driven her for a testrun. But without thermostat. But the water still boils in the hose. And a little in the radiator too, i think. not in the engine tho. COuld it be the waterpump? I will check it monday. Otherwise I rip apart the engine. change the headgasket and pressurize the head and look for cracks.

Wouldnt it be smartest to lift the head with turbos and intake on it? Less gaskets to change. And less work? And is it possable to go that way?

ko_racer · 24th July 2005, 10:04 AM

I'd check the rad cap, had something similar to this on another car and it turned out the rad cap was releasing pressure too soon so the system couldn't presurise, which lowers the boiling point. Changed the cap and all is fine now.

Keith

17th July 2005, 08:56 AM	#1 (permalink)
humanizer GTR Register Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 23	Boling water in hose Pump -> Radiator HELP Hi, I just bought my mint con. Nissan skyline R32 GT-R -93 with 7890Km. After driving it with no problems at all i opened the hood and checked everyting after a long motorway run. And i felt on the hose between the radiator and waterpump. It felt like the water was boiling. Talk about Fear. I remember the guy i bought it from talked about air in the watersystem because he had run with low, not empty, but low waterlevel in the "waterholder" When i open the cap there isnt any pressure. No Phhyyy. And there arnt any bubbles either. But shouldnt there be a pressure? The car runs great. The water temrature is stable in the middle of the scale. It has a stable idle at around 900RPM. What ca be wrong? Head gasket? Waterpumps dead? Pleas help!!

17th July 2005, 10:02 AM	#2 (permalink)
NigelR32 GTR Register Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: RB26ville Posts: 916	Could just be an air lock. Theres a screw on the Balance pipe, near the injectors. If you remove this ENGINE COLD!!!, you should get rid of the trapped air. Regards __________________ Nigel...........GTROC Member Now on '32GTR No.3

17th July 2005, 04:00 PM	#5 (permalink)
humanizer GTR Register Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 23	There is no kink/mayo in the oil cap. And there is no oil in the water. The motor runs fine and there is no other signs of problem. So i hope there is a airlock in the system that hasnt ruined the cylinder head. But why is there no pressure when i release the cap on the water holder? Last edited by humanizer; 17th July 2005 at 04:10 PM.

18th July 2005, 09:28 AM	#7 (permalink)
Durzel GTR Register Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Wiltshire Posts: 3,622	After reading this thread I thought I'd have a look around the engine to find this bleed nut because I'd never heard of it () and found it, although there appears to be two nuts there - one with an allen key hole, and a regular nut. Which one do you undo to release trapped air? EDIT: Found out (thanks Gary) its the hexagonal bolt (one that faces the wing) Last edited by Durzel; 18th July 2005 at 12:02 PM.

20th July 2005, 05:23 PM	#10 (permalink)
NigelR32 GTR Register Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: RB26ville Posts: 916	Hello mate, It sounds very much like a thermostat issue, or quite possibly a blocked radiator. The water is pumped around the engine and out through the top hose, and back into the block through the bottom hose. Did you remove the Air bleed screw when you filled it? I think I would first remove both hoses from the Rad, and see if it flows properly. Then I'd remove the Thermostat and check it, in a saucepan with a thermometer. I once had a similar problem on a Porsche 944, it turned out to be the thermostat. You can get a Nismo thermostat on E-bay, from the USA. I'd seriously run the car for a few hours with no thermostat fitted though, just to see if she runs ok, or still gets hot. You will find that the engine will warm up fine round town, but will get cooler if you go on the freeway. Hope this helps Regards __________________ Nigel...........GTROC Member Now on '32GTR No.3

17th July 2005, 10:16 AM	#3 (permalink)
humanizer GTR Register Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 23	Ohh! Thanks. I really hope so. I will check it soon. I really, really hope it is just air!! Thanks again mate!

17th July 2005, 11:18 AM	#4 (permalink)
Jim27 GTR Register Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Bolton Posts: 4,478	Check the rad expansion tank for oil and the oil cap thingy for mayo. If none then it may well be an airlockas most people suspect in this case. But IMHO I'd put money on a cracked head, especially of it been run with a low coolant level and air in the system as the coolant will have just boiled where it was rather than being pumped around, and the air pockets will have become superheated. Check the rad top pipe - there is a kink in it where air will collect and effectively boil through the rubber of the hose...

17th July 2005, 09:32 PM	#6 (permalink)
humanizer GTR Register Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 23	Do you mean the top radiator pipe?

19th July 2005, 11:57 AM	#8 (permalink)
Jim27 GTR Register Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Bolton Posts: 4,478	The one with the stciker under it that says CAUTION DO NOT OPEN WITH ENGINE RUNNING or similar

20th July 2005, 04:15 PM	#9 (permalink)
humanizer GTR Register Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 23	Now I have tried to change the water. Ive done everything as the manual say. When I run at idle til the watertemp goes to the middle i stop the car and feel the hoses. The upper hose (where it boiled before) is really warm. The hose down under is ice cold. The top of the radiator is warm. The rest is cold. Why!! The water dont seem to circulate. Can it be the waterpump? och the thermostat? What can be wrong? And where do I order parts? I live in sweden. But UK should be ok. I cant get no warmth of the heatersystem either. Please help

20th July 2005, 10:06 PM	#11 (permalink)
humanizer GTR Register Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 23	Thanks! I did release the bleed screw when I filled her up. I will try to removet the thermostat. The strangest thing about all this, is that i get a stable watertemp on the gauge. But obviously not in the engine. Regards Johnny

23rd July 2005, 02:17 PM	#13 (permalink)
humanizer GTR Register Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 23	The Thermostat seems to open when i boil it. The radiator seems to flow. Maybe it is the head gasket then, or even a cracked head !?!? =(((((((( I will try to run it without thermostat anyways. Just to see.

24th July 2005, 12:17 AM	#14 (permalink)
humanizer GTR Register Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 23	I have driven her for a testrun. But without thermostat. But the water still boils in the hose. And a little in the radiator too, i think. not in the engine tho. COuld it be the waterpump? I will check it monday. Otherwise I rip apart the engine. change the headgasket and pressurize the head and look for cracks. Wouldnt it be smartest to lift the head with turbos and intake on it? Less gaskets to change. And less work? And is it possable to go that way?

24th July 2005, 10:04 AM	#15 (permalink)
ko_racer GTR Register Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Hertfordshire Posts: 80	I'd check the rad cap, had something similar to this on another car and it turned out the rad cap was releasing pressure too soon so the system couldn't presurise, which lowers the boiling point. Changed the cap and all is fine now. Keith

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