Removing the GTR turbos = easier than I thought!

[DAN00H]

Well, I removed the stock turbos last night in about 5 hours and I must say it was a lot easier than I expected! I hear sotries of how much of a bastard of a job it is, but I didn't find that to be the case.... just took my time and followed the manual.

perhaps i'm just used to working of Aussie cars, were every bolt is a different size and you have to remove 10 pieces of gear to get to the one you want! LOL

Comparing the stockers against the HKS GT2530's you can see quite a few diffences. will be port matchin everything before they go on. While Ive got the car off the road, I'm also removing the dead weight of the now redundant HICAS. I'm looking forward to experiencing the difference.

(oh, and before anyone says so, I've got all the other support parts to go on as well)

[gtr mart]

out of interest, what support parts have you got? what spec you going for?

Did you take the engine out to do this?

cheers
Martin

[Dave_R1001]

It would be good to see some sort of photo diary of the work you are doing if you are able to?

This is something that if/when I decide to go for new turbos I would be tempted to do myself. Plus its always nice to learn a bit more about the car.

[DAN00H]

it is really just a case of following yout nose in the process of taking things apart. it is a real help to have the manual to refer to.
The only thing I need to mention is that you need a short 13mm ratchet spanner to get to the last nut that secures the rear turbo to the manifold. ratchet spanners are very handy

[Pikey]

Originally Posted by DAN00H

you need a short 13mm ratchet spanner to get to the last nut that secures the rear turbo to the manifold. ratchet spanners are very handy

Not necessarily a ratchet spanner - in fact surely you cant get a closed ratchet spanner over the top of that bolt?!

Normal stubby 13mm should do the job, thats what I used

[SteveN]

Originally Posted by Pikey

surely you cant get a closed ratchet spanner over the top of that bolt?!

thats what i was thinking! unless got far smaller headed ones than the halfords jobs!

[paul cawson]

I found it best to remove the turbo with the manifold and elbow attached. The power steering bracket needs to be removed but the job is then a lot quicker.

[DAN00H]

Originally Posted by paul cawson

I found it best to remove the turbo with the manifold and elbow attached. The power steering bracket needs to be removed but the job is then a lot quicker.

paul - how do you manage to get to the manifold nuts that are on the underside? I couldn't see anyway of removing the turbo and manifold as one unit!?!?

Hope my 2530's and HKS elbows go back on as easy as they came off! LOL

[DAN00H]

Originally Posted by SteveN

thats what i was thinking! unless got far smaller headed ones than the halfords jobs!

I didn't think it would fit, but it sure does they are not small headed by any means. I couldn't use any on my other 13's as they were too long (even considered cutting one down before I realise the ratchet 13 would fit!)

[paul cawson]

Originally Posted by DAN00H

paul - how do you manage to get to the manifold nuts that are on the underside? I couldn't see anyway of removing the turbo and manifold as one unit!?!?

Hope my 2530's and HKS elbows go back on as easy as they came off! LOL

With the power steering bracket off you can reach through with a ring spanner and take the front turbo/manifold off as one lump. then do the back one the same way. Its the easiest way I have found to do them.

[DAN00H]

Originally Posted by paul cawson

With the power steering bracket off you can reach through with a ring spanner and take the front turbo/manifold off as one lump. then do the back one the same way. Its the easiest way I have found to do them.

I had to remove the turbos from the manifilds anyway + it is easier to undo the tight bolts while they are mounted.

One thing I nearly stuffed up on was reinstalling the rear turbo to manifold nuts - the block side rear one. I was using the racthet spanner and realised the length of the bolt would not allow removal of the spanner if it was tight (my spanners only have one way heads as well!!!), only just managed to get it off before fully tightening it!!

I removed the rear actuator to W/G lever in order to tighten the main water feed properly, then just replaced and reinserted the circlip (this takes some time/ care).

it is a job made easier with a CV or knuckle joint for your socket set. only basic hand tools are required for the job.

I would HIGHLY recommend removing the hicas section of the powersteering pump if have a hicas lock bar while the turbos are out. very easy job, only 4 bolts to take the back off (I removed the wheel as well as the paddles that moved the fluid).

[gtr mart]

I think a "how to" on things like removing tubs and hicas etc would be real useful. Is this something you think you could knock up - perhaps with pics and stuff?

[Pikey]

Originally Posted by DAN00H

One thing I nearly stuffed up on was reinstalling the rear turbo to manifold nuts - the block side rear one. I was using the racthet spanner and realised the length of the bolt would not allow removal of the spanner if it was tight (my spanners only have one way heads as well!!!), only just managed to get it off before fully tightening it!!

pmsl that spanner would have been a permanent feature on your car

[DAN00H]

Originally Posted by Pikey

pmsl that spanner would have been a permanent feature on your car

Yeah - I was thinking - hmmm, that's going to make an awful rattling noise if I can't get it off! LOL

All back together now, just modifying the exhaust before I take it out for a run. the new turbos sound good though!

[DAN00H]

Originally Posted by gtr mart

I think a "how to" on things like removing tubs and hicas etc would be real useful. Is this something you think you could knock up - perhaps with pics and stuff?

agreed - I'll see if I can borrow the digital camera then write quick guide.