R32 Vacuum Help needed! - GT-R Register - Official Nissan Skyline and GTR Owners Club forum

EssexStu · 22nd January 2006, 10:55 PM

Hi all, need some help asap if possible!

Got the engine rebuilt and fitted today (yey)... has oil pressure, runs sweet as a nut, all gorgeous...

only thing noticed was that had to adjust throttle cable on first start up as wouldnt idle.. (odd, but thought, mm whateva)

well, as time progressed, still all good, idling fine, rev up, etc all fine

went to go out, brakes solid and clutch heavy

road tested.. an emergency stop takes about 15 meters, lol

anyway, got back, no engine vacuum!

Been checking all over the place but there is no vacuum that we can tell (ya normally pull pipe off and should feel a suck on your finger at idle)

wierd thing is, engine runs sweet etc, thou when really hot after test drive has started stalling when rev's drop (iscv concern would think)...
but the iscv is, like everything else which has vacuum connected to the distribution bit

Also, my vac gauge in the car (by oil temp and battery voltage) does naff all...

Any ideas ????????????

Cheers all

The Great One · 23rd January 2006, 12:01 AM

when i refitted my engine i made the mistake of getting the brake vac pipe and another pipe mixed up it was at the back by the bulk head on the plenum side worth a check

EssexStu · 23rd January 2006, 12:05 AM

oki cheers, shall check that out...

any other ideas just incase from ne 1?

just to check with someone...
the brake servo pipe goes from the servo to the cylinder bit on the wing and then to the air tube goin to the distributor chamber bit (pipe goes over tip of the clutch 1...)

the clutch 1 (mentioned above) goes on the pipe directly in front of it...

both go to air chamber so dont think it'd matter too much if them two were fitted wrong, heh

SKYLINEGTR12 · 23rd January 2006, 02:25 AM

Hi, i had a similar problem it turned out to be the intercooler pipe was really loose, i wouldn't of never noticed it all thanks to a good friend, my car's engine was sweet but started stalling when gettin hot.
But car now runs excellent..

Pikey · 23rd January 2006, 01:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EssexStu

Also, my vac gauge in the car (by oil temp and battery voltage) does naff all...

That'll be the little hose missing from the back of the inlet manifold to the black box on the bulkhead near the drivers side bonnet hinge.

Sorry cant help with the other more important thing - maybe you've got a stealth antilag system fitted?

NITO · 23rd January 2006, 01:52 PM

Check to see if you have the fpr and fuel charcoal cannister vacuum pipes the right way around. I made this mistake. The pipe off the tb goes to the fuel cannister.

EssexStu · 23rd January 2006, 09:19 PM

the canister on the driver side we paint marked so know they are right, and the 1s to the canister by the air filters only go on 1 way (different size hoses)

Spoke to mark @ Abbey today who advised of a one way valve which prevents boost entering the vacuum chamber but neither of us recall seeing it or where it is, so a long nite of studying the workshop manual.... and wednesday, got the dredded task of taking the plenum / inlet bits off while engines in car... was nasty out the car let alone in it! lol

n e hints and tips on removal in car other than following the manual ?

Only real options at the mo are that its either gotta be an airleak on the inlet manifold / throttle body etc (but doubt it as no hissing noises and when revving up engine runs sweet as a nut)
Blocked hose
incorrectly fitted hose
vac hose off

Bit scratching head time @ work thou... how does an engine run so well (under slight acceleration) with no vacuum, lol - duh

lightspeed · 23rd January 2006, 10:34 PM

The one way valve is in the brake servo hose. Servos don't work too well full off boost.

Engine has vacuum - just the plenum that doesn't.

Just follow the manual for plenum removal - get out the 1/4 drive socket set and prepare for some scratched hands and forearms. Until you give blood to the engine bay the car will never respect you!!!

How did you "adjust the throttle cable"?
I would follow the section in the manual on resetting all the throttle clearances. I can't understand why you should have to adjust the cable to get the thing to run.

EssexStu · 23rd January 2006, 10:53 PM

adjusted throttle just by simply adjusting the locking nuts to 'jack' the idle up (same as putting foot on accelerator).. have readjusted this now as realised it would put the management into part throttle which aint good!

she has already sucked enough blood! lol

atleast know my gauge in the car defo works as applied a mitivac to it and works lovely and swear i saw it working b4 stripping engine, so now know to watch that for boost..

reading workshop manual, have possibly had a result... spoken to mate who did the inlet side (i did tubby side) and remember searching for in the head set and fitting 6 o-rings on the balance tube...

4 the same size and 2 slightly different...

on the workshop manual it shows another 3 o-rings i personally dont remember seeing before... 1 tiny o-ring per chamber which goes from what i can tell, between the 2 o-rings per chamber.. if that makes sence (maybe i shud draw sum lil pictures of houses as japanese people might understand be able to diagnose for me... make more sence than my blubbering on)

22nd January 2006, 10:55 PM	#1 (permalink)
EssexStu GTR Register Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Near Southend, Essex Posts: 158	R32 Vacuum Help needed! Hi all, need some help asap if possible! Got the engine rebuilt and fitted today (yey)... has oil pressure, runs sweet as a nut, all gorgeous... only thing noticed was that had to adjust throttle cable on first start up as wouldnt idle.. (odd, but thought, mm whateva) well, as time progressed, still all good, idling fine, rev up, etc all fine went to go out, brakes solid and clutch heavy road tested.. an emergency stop takes about 15 meters, lol anyway, got back, no engine vacuum! Been checking all over the place but there is no vacuum that we can tell (ya normally pull pipe off and should feel a suck on your finger at idle) wierd thing is, engine runs sweet etc, thou when really hot after test drive has started stalling when rev's drop (iscv concern would think)... but the iscv is, like everything else which has vacuum connected to the distribution bit Also, my vac gauge in the car (by oil temp and battery voltage) does naff all... Any ideas ???????????? Cheers all

23rd January 2006, 01:52 PM	#6 (permalink)
NITO GTR Register Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Kent Posts: 1,374	Check to see if you have the fpr and fuel charcoal cannister vacuum pipes the right way around. I made this mistake. The pipe off the tb goes to the fuel cannister. __________________ "She'll make .5 past lightspeed"

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23rd January 2006, 12:01 AM	#2 (permalink)
The Great One GTR Register Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Southampton Posts: 405	when i refitted my engine i made the mistake of getting the brake vac pipe and another pipe mixed up it was at the back by the bulk head on the plenum side worth a check

23rd January 2006, 12:05 AM	#3 (permalink)
EssexStu GTR Register Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Near Southend, Essex Posts: 158	oki cheers, shall check that out... any other ideas just incase from ne 1? just to check with someone... the brake servo pipe goes from the servo to the cylinder bit on the wing and then to the air tube goin to the distributor chamber bit (pipe goes over tip of the clutch 1...) the clutch 1 (mentioned above) goes on the pipe directly in front of it... both go to air chamber so dont think it'd matter too much if them two were fitted wrong, heh

23rd January 2006, 02:25 AM	#4 (permalink)
SKYLINEGTR12 Banned Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 23	Hi, i had a similar problem it turned out to be the intercooler pipe was really loose, i wouldn't of never noticed it all thanks to a good friend, my car's engine was sweet but started stalling when gettin hot. But car now runs excellent..

23rd January 2006, 09:19 PM	#7 (permalink)
EssexStu GTR Register Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Near Southend, Essex Posts: 158	the canister on the driver side we paint marked so know they are right, and the 1s to the canister by the air filters only go on 1 way (different size hoses) Spoke to mark @ Abbey today who advised of a one way valve which prevents boost entering the vacuum chamber but neither of us recall seeing it or where it is, so a long nite of studying the workshop manual.... and wednesday, got the dredded task of taking the plenum / inlet bits off while engines in car... was nasty out the car let alone in it! lol n e hints and tips on removal in car other than following the manual ? Only real options at the mo are that its either gotta be an airleak on the inlet manifold / throttle body etc (but doubt it as no hissing noises and when revving up engine runs sweet as a nut) Blocked hose incorrectly fitted hose vac hose off Bit scratching head time @ work thou... how does an engine run so well (under slight acceleration) with no vacuum, lol - duh

23rd January 2006, 10:34 PM	#8 (permalink)
lightspeed GTROC Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: South-west Posts: 1,812	The one way valve is in the brake servo hose. Servos don't work too well full off boost. Engine has vacuum - just the plenum that doesn't. Just follow the manual for plenum removal - get out the 1/4 drive socket set and prepare for some scratched hands and forearms. Until you give blood to the engine bay the car will never respect you!!! How did you "adjust the throttle cable"? I would follow the section in the manual on resetting all the throttle clearances. I can't understand why you should have to adjust the cable to get the thing to run.

23rd January 2006, 10:53 PM	#9 (permalink)
EssexStu GTR Register Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Near Southend, Essex Posts: 158	adjusted throttle just by simply adjusting the locking nuts to 'jack' the idle up (same as putting foot on accelerator).. have readjusted this now as realised it would put the management into part throttle which aint good! she has already sucked enough blood! lol atleast know my gauge in the car defo works as applied a mitivac to it and works lovely and swear i saw it working b4 stripping engine, so now know to watch that for boost.. reading workshop manual, have possibly had a result... spoken to mate who did the inlet side (i did tubby side) and remember searching for in the head set and fitting 6 o-rings on the balance tube... 4 the same size and 2 slightly different... on the workshop manual it shows another 3 o-rings i personally dont remember seeing before... 1 tiny o-ring per chamber which goes from what i can tell, between the 2 o-rings per chamber.. if that makes sence (maybe i shud draw sum lil pictures of houses as japanese people might understand be able to diagnose for me... make more sence than my blubbering on)