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Old 11th January 2017, 09:15 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Will you do it yourself? Last time I got a quote for 500bhp on the R34 it was something like seven grand, and I already have intake and exhaust/clutch! And that wasn't touching the engine at all.
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Old 11th January 2017, 09:39 AM   #22 (permalink)
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My 33 should be around that level (not dyno tested), although I have to say it doesn't feel quite 500hp strong to me, spec is:

Jun IN / EX 264° 9.7mm lift Cam Shafts
HKS GT-SS sport turbine kit (-7 equiv.)
Tomei turbo outlet pipes
Tomei combination metal gasket set
HKS EVC4 boost controller @ ~1.35bar
RS Yamamoto Re-mapped ECU
Blitz SUS power cleaner
HKS intercooler pipe kit
HKS SUS front pipe
Weds sport catalyzer
HKS high power exhaust
Intake pipe partition
Nissan BNR34 fuel pump
Nismo 555cc fuel injector
Nismo fuel regulator
Nismo 400R intercooler
HKS oil cooler Kit
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Old 11th January 2017, 09:45 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Personally if I were starting where you are, I would go for -5's and the latest 600cc+ injectors, plugs, a good fuel pump and with the Link it should all come together pretty easily although the power will be a bit peaky. Cams (or V-CAm even better if budget allows) to fine tune if you can.

Like all have said, check the health of the engine and ancillaries first!
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Old 11th January 2017, 09:54 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David View Post
Choosing a more modern ecu you wouldn't need AFM's or boost controller as they would be included. i.e link and now many others

There are also many cars with over 500 bhp on stock cams and head gaskets. For the work I wouldn't change them.

To the OP I would also consider changing your target as you would change almost the same parts but with different spec's to get to close to 600 bhp. I.e Turbos and injectors
Whilst I agree about the cams, if the engine flowed more efficiently, less heat would be generated increasing the reliability.
Also, 500hp on a stock clutch?
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Old 11th January 2017, 10:03 AM   #25 (permalink)
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My mates 32gtr is as follows..

Fully rebuilt bottom end with 87mm Mahle pistons.. Manley rods.. new gtr longnose crank.. Tomei baffled sump. N1 pump. New water pump new cambelt n tensioners. Garrett 2860-5 turbos with the hks oil restrictors new oil and water lines original from nissan. New silicon hoses.
New os giken twin plate clutch.
Link g4 with Boost control running speed/density (no afm) map.
It makes 500+ at 1.2 bar and it's a missile. Little laggy lower down altho still accels nice but at 4000rpm it goes silly. It's going back for a bit more power.. 1.6 bar I believe and couple other bits.

Obviously all that is excessive but yeah with them turbos you can and that ecu you can make good power.

I think all the other comments are basically related to future proofing your engine (as was done above here) so bear that in mind. Before pushing it harder I would make sure everything is checked and solid first.

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Old 11th January 2017, 11:45 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by R32 Combat View Post
Whilst I agree about the cams, if the engine flowed more efficiently, less heat would be generated increasing the reliability.
Also, 500hp on a stock clutch?
I agree the volumetric efficiency would be better but a 500 bhp rb26 is not a reliability challenge.

I don't disagree on clutch but most now have had the stock clutch replaced. My last two GTR's as example have had twin plates fitted with only uprated exhausts and airfilters by previous owners.
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Old 11th January 2017, 03:33 PM   #27 (permalink)
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I am easily at 500-525 on a stock (but new) clutch and it holds great, how long will it last? I guess ill find out.

Things you absolutely need for 500HP:

AFMs
-7 or better turbos (-7's will almost be maxed out, I would go with -9's or -5's)
FULL exhaust
ECU (and a great tune)
Boost Controller
Nismo or Tomei fuel pump
Injectors

Things I would do also are new plugs, good oil, new fuel filter, timing belt and WP if they are old. You do not need cams, headgasket or an oil cooler (although great to have). Have you compression checked your motor? Would be good to know how healthy it is
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Old 11th January 2017, 03:40 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Kingsley's Blog is worth a read for anyone aiming around 500 fwhp.
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Old 11th January 2017, 04:04 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anthonymcgrath View Post
Hang on what actual skyline do you have? Gtst or gtr? I'm guessing gtr judging by the mention of needing "turbos" ..?

If that's the case then you won't need much at all really beyond the turbos and some other bits maybe? But I think a lot of the guys are thinking about future proofing to push harder should you want to down the line.



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My first question is what else needs doing. If you have an OEM oil pump and water pump they may need attention. How fit is the engine? How are the rubber hoses holding up?

In theory (as has been mentioned) 500 could be seen with you Link, some turbos, fuel upgrades and plugs.

But you may well need some remedial works. Things which aren't a problem now might be when you are pushing more power/boost.

Final thought - what is your usage model 500bhp on the street/track, hot climate etc
Thanks very much for all of the input so far.

The car is a GTR with quite a low mileage engine ( around 64k on the clock ) It was tested to be very healthy last year and made 260whp on just 10psi boost. The rubber hoses at the intercooler have already been replaced by a full brand new greddy set. I have bought an aluminium radiator to go on alongside these new parts that will have the new accompanying pipe set.

So far as usage goes i have had the car for two years and done about 5k miles. i just like to use it in the summer to the odd show and meet. i would love to see a 12 second pass on the quarter. i have taken it to crail before and managed 13.4 @ 110 so hopefully thats not too big an ask.
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Old 11th January 2017, 04:33 PM   #30 (permalink)
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As mentioned earlier definitely do compression and leak down tests to get an idea of your engines health before you bolt everything on...
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Old 11th January 2017, 04:37 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonigmr2 View Post
Will you do it yourself? Last time I got a quote for 500bhp on the R34 it was something like seven grand, and I already have intake and exhaust/clutch! And that wasn't touching the engine at all.


By the sounds of it you just need turbos, injectors, fuel pump and an ECU & map, £7k quote for that is bonkers!
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Old 11th January 2017, 04:58 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Yeah, before it blows a gearbox....





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500 on a gtr gearbox is nothing these days
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Old 11th January 2017, 05:00 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ekjim View Post
Thanks very much for all of the input so far.

The car is a GTR with quite a low mileage engine ( around 64k on the clock ) It was tested to be very healthy last year and made 260whp on just 10psi boost. The rubber hoses at the intercooler have already been replaced by a full brand new greddy set. I have bought an aluminium radiator to go on alongside these new parts that will have the new accompanying pipe set.

So far as usage goes i have had the car for two years and done about 5k miles. i just like to use it in the summer to the odd show and meet. i would love to see a 12 second pass on the quarter. i have taken it to crail before and managed 13.4 @ 110 so hopefully thats not too big an ask.
Mine needed a new oil pump at 30-40k. Assuming an R32 I'd be looking to replace the water hoses. I've had three split (individually) so have decided to swap the lot. If the engine is coming out (to change the turbos) there may be other jobs that you do at that point to save doing them later.

I'm not too hot about dragging but I would have thought a clutch would be necessary there - maybe gearbox too but perhaps a drag type can comment further.

You might not need an oil cooler. I don't track mine and have only had oil temp issues on the continent at high speed for extended periods.

On another tack if it's an R32 I'd be looking at the brakes...
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Old 11th January 2017, 05:42 PM   #34 (permalink)
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This is all on engine but will show up any other weakness, brakes, suspension etc if not been refreshed/upgraded.

It's the injectors, fuel pump, clutch, map, gaskets, oil, plugs and all that starts to add up. It's not cheap.
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Old 11th January 2017, 07:07 PM   #35 (permalink)
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It's the injectors, fuel pump, clutch, map, gaskets, oil, plugs and all that starts to add up. It's not cheap.
Agree, if I didn't know how to work on cars or map my own car id be in way over my head
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Old 11th January 2017, 07:34 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Over the last two years I've done brakes, HICAS, front arms etc.. I know more things will show face though as soon as i get started!

The car is running standard ride height and wheels ( Although bigger brakes ) So all totally original. Is this wise when the power is up? I really wan to keep it OEM if possible.
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Old 11th January 2017, 09:19 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UnderDriven View Post
I am easily at 500-525 on a stock (but new) clutch and it holds great, how long will it last? I guess ill find out.

Things you absolutely need for 500HP:

AFMs
-7 or better turbos (-7's will almost be maxed out, I would go with -9's or -5's)
FULL exhaust
ECU (and a great tune)
Boost Controller
Nismo or Tomei fuel pump
Injectors

Things I would do also are new plugs, good oil, new fuel filter, timing belt and WP if they are old. You do not need cams, headgasket or an oil cooler (although great to have). Have you compression checked your motor? Would be good to know how healthy it is
This covers it I think?
Me and a number of other people run more power than this on circuit and have been for years without problem. They're fine if tuned properly, touch wood

Gear box will break third if you smash it in but otherwise it's fine.....


Touching more wood!
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Old 11th January 2017, 09:26 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Over the last two years I've done brakes, HICAS, front arms etc.. I know more things will show face though as soon as i get started!

The car is running standard ride height and wheels ( Although bigger brakes ) So all totally original. Is this wise when the power is up? I really wan to keep it OEM if possible.
It's fine to keep standard suspension, will feel way nicer on the road than most aftermarket stuff.

The extra power only makes a different to handling when you're using it.
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Old 11th January 2017, 10:06 PM   #39 (permalink)
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By the sounds of it you just need turbos, injectors, fuel pump and an ECU & map, £7k quote for that is bonkers!
Plus afms but essentially yeah! I thought it was a lot! From one of the bigger tuners.
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Old 11th January 2017, 10:42 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Love this thread........the start of the slippery slope that so many of us have slid down!

It ends with the big single, uprated box, triple plate, LSDs, cams, 2.8 or 3.0, race dash, big brakes and a boot full of fuel pumps.
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