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Old 13th April 2006, 08:18 PM   #31 (permalink)
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ta cord.. was very worried yesterday after spending hard earned money on them. sorry for the interuption andy....
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Old 16th April 2006, 07:11 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Cambelt fitted. Its off a Mazda 323 1.7d Its the same width but 152 teeth long.




Next job, fit knock sensors... O joy...
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Old 16th April 2006, 08:17 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R32 Combat
Cambelt fitted. Its off a Mazda 323 1.7d Its the same width but 152 teeth long.




Next job, fit knock sensors... O joy...
Does the RB30 have them as standard? I have often wondered how well they work on the RB26 after changing to forged pistons and metal head gasket as they are tuned to a certain frequency window.
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Old 16th April 2006, 08:27 PM   #34 (permalink)
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A really great read, top work
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Old 16th April 2006, 08:31 PM   #35 (permalink)
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I don't think the RB30 runs with knock sensors.

With the AEM, you can tune the knock sensors so there wil be no problems there. Like you say, any internal changes ailter the knock, as does screamer pipes etc. If you log the knock voltage, you can see it rises really quickly after about 6000rpm and it makes recognising actual knock quite hit and miss.
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Old 16th April 2006, 08:38 PM   #36 (permalink)
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I dont think you can have them active with most after market ECUs just read only so if you can get them to work with the AEM its a step in the right direction.
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Old 16th April 2006, 08:44 PM   #37 (permalink)
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This knock setup on the AEM is very good, you can either retard the timing, add fuel or both. And there is a decay time amongst other knock settings. It's really rather good.

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Old 17th April 2006, 09:41 AM   #38 (permalink)
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R32 Combat,

Most of the information I have researched on detonation suggests that the cylinder bore has the greatest effect on the expected frequency of detonation, so the RB26 sensors should be fine.

Proposed knock sensor position looks good to me, although I am not certain that the AEM ECU has any real ability to determine detonation levels, it looks to me that the ECU is outputting raw sensor information with no frequency filtering.

The image below shows 3 graphs, the top is RPM, the middle graph is from a J&S detonation monitor and the bottom is the output from an AEM EMS ECU supposedly showing raw and filtered signals.

Cheers

Hugh

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Old 17th April 2006, 03:33 PM   #39 (permalink)
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There is no frequency filtering that I can see, hence me saying its a little hit and miss. AEM's recommended setup is to retard the timing 10degs, log a flat out run and use that Voltage graph as your base. It seems fairly good, but ising knock sensors with a 0-5v output and a filter would be a much better way of doing it. It's something I'll be looking at later.

Moving on a little, here's my turbo oil return pipework. Again, its a B&Q special and cost nearly a fiver..

The RB30 only has one oil drain hone and its in the middle of the block. I could have made the return go straight into the sump, but I've already fitted it so I went down this route..


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Old 17th April 2006, 04:42 PM   #40 (permalink)
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how is the copper pipe connected at the bends? It looks soldered which i would be worried wouldnt stand up to the vibration?
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Old 17th April 2006, 04:55 PM   #41 (permalink)
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It's got 2 chances.

It's soldered, yes, but I think it'll be ok. I used soldered water pipe on the water side with no problems...

If it leaks, I'll have to have another look at it.
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Old 17th April 2006, 06:06 PM   #42 (permalink)
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looking good andy. just fired mine up on the jun cams. it is quite noisy, best described as tappetty, but runs ok. hope yours is ok when you fire it up,,,,p.s good thread by the way.bernie
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Old 17th April 2006, 06:11 PM   #43 (permalink)
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My cams were a little noisy too, but hopefully with the correct shim clearence, they will be better this time around.

I hope to have the head shimmed and finally fully fitted by next weekend..
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Old 17th April 2006, 07:10 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Very interesting thread and really enjoying it. Keep up the good work Andy.
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Old 17th April 2006, 07:28 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Soldering on that pipe WILL break, it is to long of an un-supported length. But i think if you put a bracket on it tied to one of the engine mount bolts it will probably last a great deal longer.
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