RB30 engine conversion (lots of pics) - Page 6 - GT-R Register - Official Nissan Skyline and GTR Owners Club forum

blownnboosted · 7th May 2006, 11:48 AM

R32 Combat: Did you retain the air-conditioning? The reason I ask is that on my engine my oil pump pickup fouled so we had to punch a hole in the air-compressor bracket

R32 Combat · 7th May 2006, 12:10 PM

I'm not running with A/C, so no problems there..

DeLa · 8th May 2006, 09:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by R32 Combat

Neeltec,

I do seem to be getting some flak for my choice of copper water pipe. But as long as it does the job, it'll stay. Maybe I could paint it red

But I just want to direct heads to my previous reply on this thread.
Copper might be sore to look at, but supperior in ways of directing heat from the pipe to the air outside.

I still say, best choice for pipe material on this particular pipe! And polished copper do look the nuts if that was a consideration...! 'nough said...

Tommy F · 8th May 2006, 12:35 PM

pal do yourself a big favour
get rid off the t-piece
the soldered end cant vent the water
air in the pipe will melt it
the rest will be ok as long as the water is there
have a nice day
bye now

Moff · 8th May 2006, 12:58 PM

awesome reading... Keep up the good work.

Moff

R32 Combat · 8th May 2006, 08:06 PM

Ok Ok,I'll re-make the copper pipe.

keith · 8th May 2006, 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by R32 Combat

Ok Ok,I'll re-make the copper pipe.

Hi Andy

I should think so

if my apprentice did pipe work like that I would kick his Ar$e

You know it makes sense

hope you have it running soon

Keith

Chris Wilson · 8th May 2006, 08:59 PM

only just found time to read all this (excellent) thread, well done, but one question? No one seems to have commented that the block appears to be wire o ringed. I do this on Volvo 4 cylinder engines which I like playing with. Did you do this, or was the block acquired with wire rings already installed? Obviously it limits you to a compositre, ratehr than multi layer shim gasket, but in my experience a composite gasket will withstand a huge amount of abuse if the block or head is O ringed just oustide the fire land region.

Great thread, very best of luck with it. Only comment would be that I would make a crane to support the turbo and wastegate from Rose jointed rods to keep the weight off the manifold. I believe you will experience cracking, long term, if you don't.

R32 Combat · 9th May 2006, 09:39 PM

I'm still undecided on the turbo bracing idea. As the manifold gets hot, it moves. If you brace it, the movement won't occure but the manifold will become stressed. Constant stressing will cause a fracture at some point.

I'll probably not for the mo unless someone can convince me...

toddrb30gtr · 9th May 2006, 11:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by R32 Combat

I'm still undecided on the turbo bracing idea. As the manifold gets hot, it moves. If you brace it, the movement won't occure but the manifold will become stressed. Constant stressing will cause a fracture at some point.

I'll probably not for the mo unless someone can convince me...

hey mate brace it down near the gear box on the down pipe and screamer pipe then the heat difference wont matter as much and your turbo will still be supported

thats what i do on mine and i dont have any cracks

Cord · 9th May 2006, 11:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by R32 Combat

I'm still undecided on the turbo bracing idea. As the manifold gets hot, it moves. If you brace it, the movement won't occure but the manifold will become stressed. Constant stressing will cause a fracture at some point.

I'll probably not for the mo unless someone can convince me...

Brace brace brace brace, did i mention you should put a brace on it? Manifolds definately last longer when there is bracing to support the turbo.

toddrb30gtr · 9th May 2006, 11:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cord

Brace brace brace brace, did i mention you should put a brace on it? Manifolds definately last longer when there is bracing to support the turbo.

true true true true, did i mention what cord is saying is true

Cord · 10th May 2006, 12:02 AM

LOL!!!!!!1

drifter-boy · 10th May 2006, 12:36 AM

make sure you do brace the mani as its a t**t when it craks i have spent thousands on manifolds because i did not brace it

if you are feeling fluss you could always invest in one made from inconel to make sure it dont crack but they are not cheap

R32 Combat · 10th May 2006, 06:02 AM

Thanks for the tips guys. I'll look into bracing the downpipe to the somewhere. I've not fitted the cownpipe yet, but I've rolled the extra bit of pipe to get the extra length. Maybe I can weld the bracket to that. I'll have a butchers tonight.

8th May 2006, 12:35 PM	#79 (permalink)
Tommy F GTR Register Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Aberdeen Posts: 226	r32 combat pal do yourself a big favour get rid off the t-piece the soldered end cant vent the water air in the pipe will melt it the rest will be ok as long as the water is there have a nice day bye now

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7th May 2006, 11:48 AM	#76 (permalink)
blownnboosted Banned Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 23	R32 Combat: Did you retain the air-conditioning? The reason I ask is that on my engine my oil pump pickup fouled so we had to punch a hole in the air-compressor bracket

7th May 2006, 12:10 PM	#77 (permalink)
R32 Combat New Users Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Berkshire Posts: 4,341	I'm not running with A/C, so no problems there..

8th May 2006, 12:58 PM	#80 (permalink)
Moff GTR Register Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Reading Posts: 348	awesome reading... Keep up the good work. Moff

8th May 2006, 08:06 PM	#81 (permalink)
R32 Combat New Users Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Berkshire Posts: 4,341	Ok Ok,I'll re-make the copper pipe.

8th May 2006, 08:59 PM	#83 (permalink)
Chris Wilson GTR Register Member Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Shropshire Posts: 1,506	only just found time to read all this (excellent) thread, well done, but one question? No one seems to have commented that the block appears to be wire o ringed. I do this on Volvo 4 cylinder engines which I like playing with. Did you do this, or was the block acquired with wire rings already installed? Obviously it limits you to a compositre, ratehr than multi layer shim gasket, but in my experience a composite gasket will withstand a huge amount of abuse if the block or head is O ringed just oustide the fire land region. Great thread, very best of luck with it. Only comment would be that I would make a crane to support the turbo and wastegate from Rose jointed rods to keep the weight off the manifold. I believe you will experience cracking, long term, if you don't.

9th May 2006, 09:39 PM	#84 (permalink)
R32 Combat New Users Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Berkshire Posts: 4,341	I'm still undecided on the turbo bracing idea. As the manifold gets hot, it moves. If you brace it, the movement won't occure but the manifold will become stressed. Constant stressing will cause a fracture at some point. I'll probably not for the mo unless someone can convince me...

10th May 2006, 12:02 AM	#88 (permalink)
Cord GTR Register Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: RB Motorsport Posts: 1,565	LOL!!!!!!1

10th May 2006, 12:36 AM	#89 (permalink)
drifter-boy GTR Register Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: on the track driving cars Posts: 230	make sure you do brace the mani as its a t**t when it craks i have spent thousands on manifolds because i did not brace it if you are feeling fluss you could always invest in one made from inconel to make sure it dont crack but they are not cheap

10th May 2006, 06:02 AM	#90 (permalink)
R32 Combat New Users Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Berkshire Posts: 4,341	Thanks for the tips guys. I'll look into bracing the downpipe to the somewhere. I've not fitted the cownpipe yet, but I've rolled the extra bit of pipe to get the extra length. Maybe I can weld the bracket to that. I'll have a butchers tonight.