10th November 2002, 12:25 PM
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#1 (permalink) |
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GTR Register Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: newcastle
Posts: 28
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brake problems
hiya,
nice 2 meet you all. im having problems since changing my warped front discs on my gtr.since changing them they squeal really loud!ive tried a new set of pads from hiteq but still the same.only drivers sides doing it.ive tried cleaning everything down a few times.also tried swaping discs over.it stopped for a bit(half hour)then started again(still on drivers side).its worse when coming to a stop and if i brake hard it doesnt do it.discs are from abbey.need your help.im out of ideas!! cheers |
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10th November 2002, 02:17 PM
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#5 (permalink) |
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GTR Register Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Derby
Posts: 241
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did the caliper have anti-squeal shims, you would have seen these. They look like a fat peice of metal that goes over the outside of the caliper.
check if the caliper guide bolts and all the other nuts, bolts screws, dobs of super glue, furry cats and dogs are tight enough. |
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10th November 2002, 07:48 PM
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#6 (permalink) |
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GTR Register Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: newcastle
Posts: 5
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hiya
its hard to tell.i would prob say rythmic.even moving the car a few inchs with brakes on makes a lot of noise.if you brake very lightly its ok(and better if braking at speed).if you brake hard i e emergency stop its also ok.but anything inbetween and it screams! p s dont think it has shimms.any idea how much?i dont understand why its only on one side? thanks for help |
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10th November 2002, 07:56 PM
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#7 (permalink) |
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GTR Register Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Derby
Posts: 241
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If you dont have shims, then they are not needed. Some cars have them some dont. Nothing to worry about. Im not aware of anywhere that sells them.
check for pad/disc rougness and scoring. Scoring on either means they MUST be replaced. |
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10th November 2002, 08:09 PM
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#8 (permalink) |
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GTR Register Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Berkshire / Oxfordshire
Posts: 477
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if its any consolation...
mine squeal too from time to time front right worse than the others, i was told it due to the metallic nature of the pads fitted. not sure i believe that but it comes and goes. Now i think about it it hasnt done it for a while though
On a previous car i was told by the garage to drive backwards quickly and have a good hard prod on the pedal. This at least did sort those out so its worth a try. Paul |
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10th November 2002, 09:37 PM
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#10 (permalink) |
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Banned
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Up someones nose, apparently
Posts: 3,561
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Do you know how to check for Disc run-out?
When you had the old discs replaced did the guy who fitted them check for run-out? never just bolt discs straight on, you must roate them to all 5 positions to ensure you find the location with the least run-out. |
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11th November 2002, 07:33 PM
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#12 (permalink) |
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GTR Register Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: newcastle
Posts: 5
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im running with pagid pads.first i tried the new discs with green stuff.got pagids from hiteq and they rekon that they are good for not squealing.it did make a difference,but not much.im interested to know more about this "run out".i fitted the discs myself(seemed like a good idea at the time!!).also i swapped discs from side to side.this cleared the problem for about half hour with no noise at all.then it returned on same side.the noise is alot louded than what i would class as normal brake squeal.
o well just booked up at hi teq for phase 1 conversion to cheer myself up! |
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11th November 2002, 08:04 PM
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#13 (permalink) |
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Banned
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Up someones nose, apparently
Posts: 3,561
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Run-out,
is the amount that the disc rotates out of 'true', the disc if fitted incorrectly does not roate 'flat' as the disc rotates and passes a single staionery 'point', the metal 'plate' moves away then nearer to this 'point' as it turns a full circle, if it run perfectly then it would be described as having '0' run-out, the standard for my car is 0.05mm that is from the nearest edge to the furthest edge, this is what you should aim for on your car, never fit discs or have them fitted without knowing the figures you get. You need to hire or buy (£30) or if you live near me, borrow a dial gauge take the wheel off, take the caliper off, clamp the disc firmly with 3 of the wheel nuts and take a reading on the gauge, write it down, mark the position with a little tippex on one stud and the first 'hole' next to it, and then repeat this procedure round the 4-5 possible locations, with this info pick the best and fit it there, wipe off the tippex and with a little red paint mark the 'co-incidence' of the 2 parts (stud/disc) re-assemble the caliper and then do the same thing on the road wheel, just get the best you can and be sure to measure BOTH sides of the road wheel, using a similar dab of red paint mark the best coincidence point. If you mark each corner a different colour then when you change the tyres you just refit red to red blue to blue etc. The other benefit of this is that if you get a bad tyre you will know that it is exactly that not something else. You will actually get a better ride and better braking and handling as a result too. (Waits for applause......oh well) Last edited by Mycroft; 11th November 2002 at 08:09 PM. |
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