Have you changed your own Turbos?

[Marko R1]

Good read thread...now that I no longer have my rb30 with -10s which was insane btw, I have an rb26 with gtrs's and the more I read about -5s the more I should swap them over (I did have another rb26 with -5s making 340rwkw on only 19psi.

Paul, who swapped your gtrs's over for your -5s?

[Piggaz]

Originally Posted by Marko R1

Good read thread...now that I no longer have my rb30 with -10s which was insane btw, I have an rb26 with gtrs's and the more I read about -5s the more I should swap them over (I did have another rb26 with -5s making 340rwkw on only 19psi.

Paul, who swapped your gtrs's over for your -5s?

A mate of mine who lives in Panania.

[Marko R1]

How much? Pm me if u prefer, I also have a new mobile 0415063555, old number is dead

[Piggaz]

Originally Posted by Marko R1

How much? Pm me if u prefer, I also have a new mobile 0415063555, old number is dead

It was a bit of a love job.
CRD won't do it?

[Marko R1]

They would do it but with their customer backlog u would expect to wait a few weeks...for as long as I've used them over the yrs, this has always been the case

I've done my own r&r 4 times now and also bolted the ancilleries from a short block.
..I just don't like the lack of access. I think I'll do it myself

Where did u get your -5s from? MTQES was very well priced when I bought my -10s at 2100aud for both + actuators

[Piggaz]

Ahh right. Fair enough!
I got mine from GCG and with Member discount they are under $2,000 for the pair

[ColinR33]

Originally Posted by TheD

With the engine in, by far the hardest part, if you have never carried this out before is figuring out what bits need to come out and in what order. It's awkward getting to a few of the manifold nuts and lining up the ally turbo pipes hen refitting can be a little tricky but patience wins out.
I would say for most, engine removal is impractical. I've done both now, engine in and engine out. Obviously engine out is infinitely easier.

Totally agree, did a lot of research and finally worked up the nerve to do it myself, happy I did.

[Marko R1]

has anybody put together a simple 'DIY turbo removal guide' which they are happy to share here?

reason i ask, when i removed my engine for the 1st time, i used a DIY engine removal guide which was posted on skylines aust forum & THAT made it very easy with pics & steps to follow

[Monster GT-R]

I forgot to say that if you change out your stock journal bearing turbo's for ball bearing turbo's, you have to restrict the oil flow to them or you will use oil and not know where it is going. The factory Banjo 'T' on the block is your oil restrictor. The hole that is inside where the hard pipe goes has the orifice in it. This hole is far, far too big and gives to much oil to the turbo. After I pulled the engine I found my intake system full of oil plus my intercooler too. I was wondering why I was using more engine oil than I should have for a new engine. I thought I had to get an oil catch can, because so much oil was going into the intake system but then I found out my mistake and then it all made perfect sense. To much oil was supplied when the engine was over a given RPM and it was then pushed and sucked past the compressor and turbine seals. To remedy this mistake I had to drill and tap the block banjo 'T' to fit an adapter from male NPT to male AN -4 . I had the end of this adapter welded shut and then drilled a 0.060 hole in it to be the new orifice. I then used a Banjo adapter 12 mm to male AN -4 on the turbo and bought braided AN -4 prefabricated lines for the oil supply. Garrett recommends something like 0.036 inch orifice but I was leery of that small a supply. So I made mine a little larger but still considerably smaller than the stock journal bearing supply orifice. Everyone who changes turbos to ball bearing turbo's has to do this or they will use oil and think it is by some other cause and not realize it is this that is doing it. It is not the drain back hose either, bin there done that. The oil can't get out of the bearing housing fast enough in the engines upper RPM ranges.

[CabbageMS]

Monster - I am aware that roller bearing turbos require less oil pressure than standard journal bearing turbos but I was under the impression the Garrett roller bearing turbos (-5 and -7 at least) had an oil restrictor built into them? Can anyone confirm this?

[Monster GT-R]

edit problem here

[Monster GT-R]

The turbo's came without anything other than the actuators. You have to use the stock water/oil pipes that wrap around the turbo's. They are wide open because a banjo bolt goes in them. If you have acess to a machine shop you could silver solder or braze that bolt and then re drill it smaller and use the factory lines. Or use AN fittings and mod it that way. There are no male Jananise Metric inverted flare AN fitting to AN flared male so your stuck with the job of converting to NPT in the block banjo "T". Then your home free for the braided lines.
.
And it is less flow not less pressure (litres per hour) that these turbo's require. Oil pressure is maintained pump side of the oil restrictor and is free flow in this case to the sump.

[CabbageMS]

Well I know that the garrett -5 and -7s from Owen developments come with a restrictor already built in so be aware of this if buying a turbo from them.

I was under the impression flow rate and pressure were linked but it's been a couple of years since I did fluid dynamics.

[Monster GT-R]

Pressure is only a relative term up stream of the orifice. Down stream of the orifice it is the flow that comes out of the orifice to near atmosphic pressure. The oil enters the housing from the top and (sort of) gravity flows through to the oil pan. On my Garrett's the housing was open where the factory tubes connected and I could see right into the housing. The turbo shop I got mine from said there are no internal restrictors/orifices just the passages/galleries that are for oil transport. Restrictors must be installed external of the center housing. My tubo's are the Garrett 707160-50005 and the 707161-50010. All 4 are the same from what I can see. I was told the dash 10's are the same in every respect to the dash 5's except they have a bigger shaft and different bearings and bigger compressor and all the other part numbers are the same including the turbine. That is why they are slower to spool as they have to make more work and larger diameter to spin.

[Marko R1]

Originally Posted by Monster GT-R

Pressure is only a relative term up stream of the orifice. Down stream of the orifice it is the flow that comes out of the orifice to near atmosphic pressure. The oil enters the housing from the top and (sort of) gravity flows through to the oil pan. On my Garrett's the housing was open where the factory tubes connected and I could see right into the housing. The turbo shop I got mine from said there are no internal restrictors/orifices just the passages/galleries that are for oil transport. Restrictors must be installed external of the center housing. My tubo's are the Garrett 707160-50005 and the 707161-50010. All 4 are the same from what I can see. I was told the dash 10's are the same in every respect to the dash 5's except they have a bigger shaft and different bearings and bigger compressor and all the other part numbers are the same including the turbine. That is why they are slower to spool as they have to make more work and larger diameter to spin.

i currently have hks gtrs's on my 2.6 & thinking of changing them to garrett -5s as the larger gtrs's do take a while to spool (just like the -10s)

any thoughts or success stories with gaining good mid range on hks gtrs's OR garrett -10s? i am still hopeful