N1 oilpump VS Jun oilpump! - Page 2 - GT-R Register - Official Nissan Skyline and GTR Owners Club forum

Mr. Keets · 2nd April 2008, 08:06 AM

Sounds like a job for* dun dun dahhhhhh* Matty32 and the resourceful folks at Newera.

TP_ · 3rd April 2008, 04:28 AM

I think that i will buy an Tomei oilpump, seems after much reading here and on the Australian forums that the high flow of Jun is not that good. The Tomei is at least adjustable, so running it at the lowest "flow" should be good.

As i read from the Australians, the rear oil restrictor should be blocket, and then have a 1.2mm in the front then add a external "return" for the oil, from the head to the block.

kismetcapitan · 3rd April 2008, 06:27 AM

JUN's high flow lets me use thin oil, which I like.

Never use Greenline. Never. RHDJapan.com - fast, good prices, good people.

I bought a Tomei. Not sure where I'm going to set it in terms of flow - I think one step lower than max flow, or maybe just max flow.

N1 is a good choice if you want to break your engine. N1+Reimax gears, for that money, it's the same as a Tomei anyways.

TP_ · 3rd April 2008, 07:35 AM

The Reimax gears turned out to cost around 470usd, and a N1 pump costs 360USd for me. Its like, 3-400USD more and ive got an Tomei. Doesnt feel like its worth the money for an N1 and Reimax gears then.

Mr. Keets · 11th April 2008, 07:13 AM

I just ordered some gear from Greenline. I received an inquiry response within 24hrs and after purchase 12 hrs. We all have preferences I suppose.

For me the N1+Reimax deal will work out cheaper than a GReedy/Jun deal

TP_ · 11th April 2008, 07:41 AM

In Sweden there's a LOT of people who had problems with Greenline, things which has been payd but nothing has showed up even a halfyear after the payment had been done. So i'm not ordering from Greenline anymore.

But i ordered a Tomei from RHD.

This is how my oilsystem will look when i recieve the Tomeipump!

Tomeipump
Tomei buffleplates etc.
Home extended sump with 1.9l
10mm external oil return from the head down to the sump extension
1.5mm restrictors in the front and the rear block, or 1 1.2mm in the rear. Also a 1.5-1.2 restrictor to my turbo

icydude · 11th April 2008, 09:26 AM

I too had problems with greenline, also nengun.

gibson · 15th April 2008, 07:44 PM

should say, that high oil pressure low volume is also so as bad as low oil pressure to many reducers and the oil will not get to where it needs to be in volume.

SR BEAST · 15th April 2008, 08:09 PM

Has anyone broken a tomei pump yet ?

GT-Rs have gone 8s in the quarter here on tomei oil pump with 60' of 1.2

greyBnr32 · 17th April 2008, 10:11 AM

so how did you get the pump balanced? sorry if is an obvious question.

gibson · 20th April 2008, 09:22 AM

Why do pumps break??one issue along with RPM and balancing, could be there is cavatation on oil entry from the pick up, causing the gears to make contact and smash?? just a thought
Could this also be due to low oil in the sump due to high flow to the head and return is only gravity when it has been pumped up there at what 4-7 bar. 1.25mm reducer, oil return from the back of the head , increase oil return galleries, tomie Baffle, oil cooler,balanced ,ATI damper.

gibson · 20th April 2008, 09:27 AM

Tp... going by the New Zealand, australians experience i think you may need to increase your return to 1/2 or 13mm as it is only gravity.

icydude · 20th April 2008, 10:51 AM

cavitation of rb oil pumps isn't a problem until after 10k rpm.
running the sump dry is completely different

gibson · 20th April 2008, 11:00 AM

i have done my second engine and mine was limited to 8500RPm. Its not a one fix answer it is about saving the engine isn't it. Just say no problems till 10k and starvation is completely different isn't an answer. It is all about oil and how to keep in the right area. What about 8500rpm cornering accel/decel.

icydude · 20th April 2008, 11:24 AM

I personally took a "stock" rb26 to 9000 rpm on many occasions.
We had a PFC with no rev limiter set up(max)
unopened engine with 125k on the clock

About three months into the rat bagging oil started showing up in the radiator. We ripped the head off and found the block was fractured all over the place from visually inspecting the deck. There were no oiling problems at all in the time i used that engine, it had to deal with -30 cold starts on 15w40 oil to boot.

The only mistake was using the oem damper. In the recent year and a bit people have begun "preaching" that oil returns are a must, "you can't build an engine without them". Quite frankly that is bull. RB's have made it for 15+ years. It seems the new fancy dancy stuff, which does serve a purpose, has begun to take precedent over the old what works goodies. Cleaning up the gallaries, some good baffles and a proper sized restrictor for the engine you are building and you will not have any issues. If you are going to be tracking the car there are some other things that could be utilized but thats another story.

Your post makes no sense to me, but further exploring the previous one about 5 up from here. Pump cavitation presents itself in two forms in my mind. There is the "real" cavitation caused by air bubbles being introduced into the oil when you move it around so much and then there is the running your dry cavitation which should just be called running the sump dry.

20th April 2008, 09:22 AM	#26 (permalink)
gibson GTR Register Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: hertfordshire Posts: 428	Why do pumps break??one issue along with RPM and balancing, could be there is cavatation on oil entry from the pick up, causing the gears to make contact and smash?? just a thought Could this also be due to low oil in the sump due to high flow to the head and return is only gravity when it has been pumped up there at what 4-7 bar. 1.25mm reducer, oil return from the back of the head , increase oil return galleries, tomie Baffle, oil cooler,balanced ,ATI damper. Last edited by gibson; 20th April 2008 at 09:25 AM.

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2nd April 2008, 08:06 AM	#16 (permalink)
Mr. Keets GTR Register Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Sunny Shinyanga Posts: 163	Sounds like a job for* dun dun dahhhhhh* Matty32 and the resourceful folks at Newera.

3rd April 2008, 04:28 AM	#17 (permalink)
TP_ GTR Register Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Sweden Posts: 41	I think that i will buy an Tomei oilpump, seems after much reading here and on the Australian forums that the high flow of Jun is not that good. The Tomei is at least adjustable, so running it at the lowest "flow" should be good. As i read from the Australians, the rear oil restrictor should be blocket, and then have a 1.2mm in the front then add a external "return" for the oil, from the head to the block.

3rd April 2008, 06:27 AM	#18 (permalink)
kismetcapitan GTR Register Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Seoul Korea Posts: 6,397	JUN's high flow lets me use thin oil, which I like. Never use Greenline. Never. RHDJapan.com - fast, good prices, good people. I bought a Tomei. Not sure where I'm going to set it in terms of flow - I think one step lower than max flow, or maybe just max flow. N1 is a good choice if you want to break your engine. N1+Reimax gears, for that money, it's the same as a Tomei anyways.

3rd April 2008, 07:35 AM	#19 (permalink)
TP_ GTR Register Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Sweden Posts: 41	The Reimax gears turned out to cost around 470usd, and a N1 pump costs 360USd for me. Its like, 3-400USD more and ive got an Tomei. Doesnt feel like its worth the money for an N1 and Reimax gears then.

11th April 2008, 07:13 AM	#20 (permalink)
Mr. Keets GTR Register Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Sunny Shinyanga Posts: 163	I just ordered some gear from Greenline. I received an inquiry response within 24hrs and after purchase 12 hrs. We all have preferences I suppose. For me the N1+Reimax deal will work out cheaper than a GReedy/Jun deal

11th April 2008, 07:41 AM	#21 (permalink)
TP_ GTR Register Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Sweden Posts: 41	In Sweden there's a LOT of people who had problems with Greenline, things which has been payd but nothing has showed up even a halfyear after the payment had been done. So i'm not ordering from Greenline anymore. But i ordered a Tomei from RHD. This is how my oilsystem will look when i recieve the Tomeipump! Tomeipump Tomei buffleplates etc. Home extended sump with 1.9l 10mm external oil return from the head down to the sump extension 1.5mm restrictors in the front and the rear block, or 1 1.2mm in the rear. Also a 1.5-1.2 restrictor to my turbo

11th April 2008, 09:26 AM	#22 (permalink)
icydude GTR Register Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Posts: 384	I too had problems with greenline, also nengun.

15th April 2008, 07:44 PM	#23 (permalink)
gibson GTR Register Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: hertfordshire Posts: 428	should say, that high oil pressure low volume is also so as bad as low oil pressure to many reducers and the oil will not get to where it needs to be in volume.

15th April 2008, 08:09 PM	#24 (permalink)
SR BEAST GTR Register Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 258	Has anyone broken a tomei pump yet ? GT-Rs have gone 8s in the quarter here on tomei oil pump with 60' of 1.2

17th April 2008, 10:11 AM	#25 (permalink)
greyBnr32 GTR Register Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Posts: 133	so how did you get the pump balanced? sorry if is an obvious question.

20th April 2008, 09:27 AM	#27 (permalink)
gibson GTR Register Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: hertfordshire Posts: 428	Tp... going by the New Zealand, australians experience i think you may need to increase your return to 1/2 or 13mm as it is only gravity.

20th April 2008, 10:51 AM	#28 (permalink)
icydude GTR Register Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Posts: 384	cavitation of rb oil pumps isn't a problem until after 10k rpm. running the sump dry is completely different

20th April 2008, 11:00 AM	#29 (permalink)
gibson GTR Register Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: hertfordshire Posts: 428	i have done my second engine and mine was limited to 8500RPm. Its not a one fix answer it is about saving the engine isn't it. Just say no problems till 10k and starvation is completely different isn't an answer. It is all about oil and how to keep in the right area. What about 8500rpm cornering accel/decel.

20th April 2008, 11:24 AM	#30 (permalink)
icydude GTR Register Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Posts: 384	I personally took a "stock" rb26 to 9000 rpm on many occasions. We had a PFC with no rev limiter set up(max) unopened engine with 125k on the clock About three months into the rat bagging oil started showing up in the radiator. We ripped the head off and found the block was fractured all over the place from visually inspecting the deck. There were no oiling problems at all in the time i used that engine, it had to deal with -30 cold starts on 15w40 oil to boot. The only mistake was using the oem damper. In the recent year and a bit people have begun "preaching" that oil returns are a must, "you can't build an engine without them". Quite frankly that is bull. RB's have made it for 15+ years. It seems the new fancy dancy stuff, which does serve a purpose, has begun to take precedent over the old what works goodies. Cleaning up the gallaries, some good baffles and a proper sized restrictor for the engine you are building and you will not have any issues. If you are going to be tracking the car there are some other things that could be utilized but thats another story. Your post makes no sense to me, but further exploring the previous one about 5 up from here. Pump cavitation presents itself in two forms in my mind. There is the "real" cavitation caused by air bubbles being introduced into the oil when you move it around so much and then there is the running your dry cavitation which should just be called running the sump dry.