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#1 (permalink) |
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GTR Register Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Phoenix, AZ. USA
Posts: 98
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Is there any statement in the owner's manual about a break-in period for the R-35? Anybody have a manual?
Is the break-in considered complete at the factory or is it covered by the first few early checks to the dealer? thanks. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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GTROC Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Tokyo
Posts: 1,094
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oil change after the first 1000km. asap = within a few weeks or another 1000km of the first 1000km. i took mine it at 1500km and it was fine.
__________________
My GTR SUCKS..... air.... then big shiny turbos force it into the engine. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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GTROC Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Essex
Posts: 627
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Interestingly on the official GTR site, it states that the engines are bench tested for 44 minutes, including 10 minutes at red line, seems odd that they then want to restrict the RPM on delivery (i guess all the parts have got to all run an bed in), but shows that the no matter how much it's mothered, any real damaged would have already been done.
I'll still be running mine in correctly though ![]()
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Andy Mr Sheen has nothing on me ;) I miss my R34 GTR, roll on 2009!! |
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#9 (permalink) |
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GTR Register Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Phoenix, AZ. USA
Posts: 98
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On the Street:
Warm the engine up completely "The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. You don't have to go over 65 mph / 104 kph to properly load the rings. The biggest problem with breaking your engine in on the street (besides police) is if you ride the bike on the freeway (too little throttle = not enough pressure on the rings) or if you get stuck in slow city traffic. For the first 200 miles or so, get out into the country where you can vary the speed more and run it through the gears! Remember that both hard acceleration and hard engine braking (deceleration) are equally important during the break in process." I used to always go out late at night on surface streets with some street lights to help simulate some of the up and down. Accelerate and decelerate with the same intensity on the engine; i.e. always downshift. Let it power up and down through the powerband of each gear, but like the advice in the dyno break-in, I did 50% throttle for the first few streets, working up to 75 - 85% throttle about 10 minutes into the drive. After the engine had been hot for awhile (180 - 185 fahrenheit (82 - 85 celsius for 20 minutes), I would get on it a little more. The worst thing is to drive at constant speed and throttle. Lots of variation. |
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