High speed ride now getting dangerous

[JackyN]

I'll get back to you on the suspension and maybe with some photos. I remember there is a shop in Japan can do this too and the price is about 56000yen. I'll try to find you the info. I don't like the P-zero tires. Personally i like the Michelin Pilot Sport 2 or Continental Contact 3 but although the runflat tires make the car bouncing alot but it has good grips that's why i'm keep it for now.

[mindlessoath]

he probably used a technique that hirano tire or garage defend used with c rings.
CBA-R35: R35 Suspention Options

pics of garage defend setup here:
CBA-R35: Garage defend update.

and pics of hirano tire here:
CBA-R35: Hirano Tire adjusts stock suspention

[WickedOne513]

at this point by changing the suspension and lowering the GTR you would loose the opption to adjust the ride in the car is that correct or is there a company that has found a way to intigrate with the cars ride adjustment?

also another question is I orgionally heard some rumors about nissan making it very hard to change from the factory tires and rims do to the Nav system is this correct and how had is it to change atleats the runflats to anothers tire and then looking at one of the emergancy kits that mazda has for the RX8 for example that unless you have a full blowout you can patch and drive for 50 miles on it.... i have used that product and works really well and doesnt gunck up the rims for when they replace the tire

[mindlessoath]

if you look at the post i first posted, it shows alot of the options. esprit have made an adjustment to the stock shocks so you can use them for street or track but you can adjust them still using the in car settings. im not sure how differnt they are on the road tho, they say not to bad.

all the rest of the coil over systems you can adjust by hand or with external computer system (tho i think thats only tein currently - which i dont have on the list yet).

[Kanzen]

Originally Posted by Arch5

Mine's has Eibach replacement springs available. Since you've gotten other parts from them, may as well purchase a set of these. Or maybe inquire about them.

Kanzen,

Are you familiar with these?

Mine's Eibach Springs - NAGTROC - The Nissan GT-R Owners Club

What's New? Mine's Eibach Spring for R35 GT-R

Of course:

R35Parts

These springs are a cost effective way of lowering the car, they're not going to transform the handling.

Mine's have a set of rims in development for the R35, which will mean less unsprung weight and a wider choice of tyre.

[LordeRyall]

Originally Posted by tokyogtr

just to add, there have been quite a few crashed GT-Rs already which might be down to the instability on rough surfaces. it's compounded when you brake on those surfaces.

Interesting point - Given that a couple have been totalled in Malaysia which does not exactly have the most consistent road surfaces, even on highways.....

[First]

Originally Posted by tokyogtr

that's great info. how did he lower the car? yeah, i hate the runflats but the alternatives look quite shite. i might be tempted with p-zeros but don't have great memories of them.

This raise me back to the question I ask again but nobody could answer yet. I've always like Michelin Pilot Sport 2 and was wondering if it can fit into the stock 20inch ray wheels? I look around and found that they do have the same exact profile as the stock tyres.

[First]

Originally Posted by LordeRyall

Interesting point - Given that a couple have been totalled in Malaysia which does not exactly have the most consistent road surfaces, even on highways.....

Yes exactly! And I'm in malaysia too. This thread is starting to make me feel nervous.... perhaps I should just tell Mines to leave the speed limiter on with boost increase and remap only...

I know I can't control myself when given the option to go over 180km/h. Kanzen, if we go for ESTA Mines street kit, do you think this will solve the problem? And i suppose doing that will cause the car to need total reallignment of the wheels? will the camber change?

[Kanzen]

First,

I was at Mine's with tokyogtr and we discussed this issue with them.

They recommend the ESTA Spec II and of course, the geometry needs to be adjusted as we have already discussed.

IMO there's little point going for a power upgrade and leaving the limiter in place. You'll hit it before you even know what's happened....

[EvolutionVI]

Originally Posted by kraath

Well they can`t sell a car in Germany flying off the road above 180 km/h while it actually can be driven at 290 km/h+.
180 km/h i can go in a 10 year old crap car.
It is just an assumption but 30k EUR difference is not peanuts.

Since no one knows I will just wait and test one when they are available and road legal here.
If it sucks against the Audi S4 i will simply buy that one as it is my other favorite next to the GTR and well suited for German high speed roads

Maybe correct,but Nissan has tested the car very many times on german Autobahn,and sometimes in the videos you can see how easy it goes round corners at highspeed.

Befor i buy a Audi(it doesn´t matter what sporty model,all are slower then my other 3 cars) i change the suspension on the GTR(if it really handles shi*) and it will be fine

PS: For the pricedifference,you can´t blame Nissan alone,most of the money goes to Ms Merkel,i mean youre paying 10% toll + 19% tax (around 20000€) to the german government,thanks germany

[First]

Originally Posted by Kanzen

First,

I was at Mine's with tokyogtr and we discussed this issue with them.

They recommend the ESTA Spec II and of course, the geometry needs to be adjusted as we have already discussed.

IMO there's little point going for a power upgrade and leaving the limiter in place. You'll hit it before you even know what's happened....

In that case could you check how extensive are the geometry/allignments to be changed? And what kind allignment machines are needed? Will any series of Hunter works? And the Mines engineer will decide what kind of geometry to put set in for you right? I hope I dont have to give any inputs since I have no idea what suspension settings are or what my preference drivings are.

Also with ESTA its said to reduce front by 40mm and back by 20mm, that front drop is too much for me. As in I think i'll scrap the carbon lip all over the road and become the world first GTR municipal sweeper Is there a way to lower it less? Perhaps like 15mm front and 10mm back and achieve the same stability results? Malaysia roads have lots of illogical hump/bumps.

[EvolutionVI]

I can have a testdrive tomorrow in a JDM GTR,will see how the suspension works then

hopefully there is a unlimited Autobahn in the near.

[skyline69_uk]

Originally Posted by tokyogtr

yes, it's literally on and off. there's nothing gradual about it at all.

I would say your delimiting of the speed is not giving the correct VSS (vehicle speed signal) to the ECU or that the ECU is running a different program in "delimited track mode" then in the speed limited "road mode" and causing the ECU to do things (not do things) at the wrong times etc. The delimiter has to work with the program code in the ECU or else all sorts of problems occur. The fact that it is on/off would suggest that is the problem at the 180kph mark.

[David.Yu]

Originally Posted by skyline69_uk

I would say your delimiting of the speed is not giving the correct VSS (vehicle speed signal) to the ECU or that the ECU is running a different program in "delimited track mode" then in the speed limited "road mode" and causing the ECU to do things (not do things) at the wrong times etc. The delimiter has to work with the program code in the ECU or else all sorts of problems occur. The fact that it is on/off would suggest that is the problem at the 180kph mark.

That sounds very plausible. In fact there is no other explanation for a dramatic damping change that occurs at exactly 180km/h.

The cars supplied to the press for driving at over 180km/h would have had the limiter removed from the factory within the ECU, not an aftermarket workaround.

I'm not saying Mine's don't know what they're doing (I was the first UK proponent of their products over 10 years ago), but the R35 is a hugely complicated beast that is still very young in its tuning cycle.

[doggiehowser]

FWIW, I haven't felt much confidence in pushing this car on public roads as much as I did on my old Evo.

When I am taking sweepers on normal highways (sub sub 180km/h speeds), I can't tell if the tail was going to start losing traction.. there's always this fear. Maybe it's the suspension set up.. maybe it's the ATTESA staying in control.

But I suspect it could also be the tyres. I don't get as much feedback from them as I do on my old Advan A046 (stock Evo tyres) and A048 (semi slicks). My experience with Bridgestones (Potenza S03s on my old ride) is that they don't particularly communicate well. And with runflat RE070s, it's probably worse.