Moby Dick coming together - Page 6 - GT-R Register - Official Nissan Skyline and GTR Owners Club forum

kismetcapitan · 23rd July 2008, 08:41 AM

I just got my latest look-see, pictures are forthcoming. The engine has been installed - the block, turbos and intake were assembled, then the transmission mounted, all while outside the car. The entire assembly was then bolted to the front subframe (removed from the car), then the subframe and engine were hoisted up into place and bolted up.

One other hiccup - they forgot to mummy-wrap the exhaust manifolds. No one's perfect, and considering how nicely everything has been assembled, it would be a shame to tear it all apart again.

A/C piping got all new seals; hopefully this will keep me cool.

160 amp alternator, rebuilt from an Infiniti I30 fits right it - it's a little longer, and the plug is different, but all in all it will be nice to have a lot of reserve electrical juice on tap. I will have the electric fan wired to a manual switch so I can kick it on in traffic - even when water is below 90 degrees, activating the electric fan will help the A/C run cooler.

The intake temp sensor has been relocated and is now in a bung immediately after the intercooler. Getting that thing out of the engine bay is a very important thing I believe - when underhood temps get hot (when the IAT reads 70 degrees...is the intake air REALLY 70 degrees???), the idle starts to run very lean, and the surging idle is annoying in the least, and makes idle AFR tuning a headache.

AAC has been cleaned and is shiny and spic-and-span.

Boost solenoid has been moved to the turbo side. All vacuum hard pipes have been removed, and I just have my vacuum line running from the plenum to the solenoid. From there, it goes to a T-pipe and the wastegates have equal-length hoses from the T.

All recirc garbage has been binned, the HICAS capped off and the HICAS pipes removed, and vent holes drilled behind the oil cooler so that air can actually flow *through*.

Ohlins coilovers (the cheaper ones that I have) are a pain to adjust - you have to remove the unit and then move the spring plate. The rear of the car is getting lowered about a centimeter, the front will get lowered some more and the arches rolled. I'm no longer concerned with "usable" ride height so the car is getting dropped as far as is practical for city streets.

The intercooler is being cleaned. I want to see pics of what has been living in there for the past 17 years!

It's going to take awhile to break in this car - I don't drive much these days!! I am going on a 1000km plan, incrementally increasing load and boost every 100km or so. I think I'll do it on the Naegok-Bundang highway, where I've done high-speed runs. The ups and downs through the mountains should provide enough load variation, even though as a highway it's easy to get stuck at 3000rpm. 23.9km per lap, five laps a night, I can get it done in ten days

fuel costs for break-in alone will run over $600

I remember when a gallon of premium cost $0.95 ($8 in Korea now).

Once the car is broken in, I have booked a LOT of dynopack time. I don't plan to just run full-boost pulls, I'll get the car up to a certain rpm, lock in the load, then map every damned cell individually for optimum ignition timing. Two days dawn to dusk should be worthwhile, then an all-nighter on the road. And then...we'll run that dyno-queen pull and see just how much 2860-5s at 2 bars makes

(my butt-dyno says a lot, but let's quantify this number, shall we?)

kismetcapitan · 23rd July 2008, 09:00 AM

and it should be noted - although the car had been mapped before, I am remapping from scratch. Because I had, for want of a better term, "fragile bearings", my map had about 10 degrees of timing pulled from a certain area of the map. This kept the bearing I spun (and somehow settled back in again) from acting up.

I'm also shopping for NASCAR-spec Brembo racing monoblocks. These are much smaller than the monstrous calipers squeezed under 20" wheels these days. Rear 4 pots are a direct fit for the stock 298mm R32 rear rotor. Front 4 pots will take more, a 332mm rotor. A stock R34 rotor might work there. Anyways, it's a much cheaper route than spending $10-$15K for 8 pot racing monoblocks, which I really don't need anyways.

plumwerks · 23rd July 2008, 04:25 PM

Good stuff KC,keep it going.

MacGTR · 23rd July 2008, 04:28 PM

Sounds like it should be a monster.

One thing I have to complain about is you complaining about petrol, thats still a lot cheaper than over here, Feel lucky while it is still so cheap!

kismetcapitan · 30th July 2008, 11:25 AM

sorry...I'm American - I'm used to petrol costing 1/4th of what we pay!

kismetcapitan · 30th July 2008, 11:26 AM

question: with all the balancing and whatnot, but a Nissan crank (albeit new) and a new ATI street damper...would you redline this engine at 9000rpm??

plumwerks · 30th July 2008, 04:11 PM

After mapping,you'll know where to redline it.
Once you know where power falls off significantly,then there is no use revving it past that point.

kismetcapitan · 7th August 2008, 02:51 PM

FINALLY got to drive it today!!!! It wasn't much, about 20km of pottering about, staying under 4000rpm and trying to keep the turbos from building any boost. Once the car was warm, I tuned the injector settings and got AFRs where I want them. I'm using my old fueling map, and it seems I won't have to tweak it much, although of course I haven't seen any boost or load.

The car is not significantly louder (I had the muffler box removed) but it has a boomy resonance that I find satisfying. So no regrets on that. I do have an Apexi ATS - we tried it out for a bit. It works. It sounds like complete shit - like a buzzy 1 liter Kei-car with some loud cat-back. Or more accurately, it sounds like a kazoo. But it does the silencing job well.

I am having a problem - when starting the engine hot, the engine is turning over far too rich, and I have to open the throttle to get enough air in to get it to fire up. Any ideas?

I don't know how in the hell I'm going to manage to stay off the boost for 1000km. But it's probably too late to do the hard and fast run-in method.

Relocating the air temp sensor to the intercooler was the smartest thing I've ever done. On a scorching hot day, water temp over 80 degrees and not moving fast at all (80km tops), I finally saw realistic air temp readings - 31 degrees, slightly cooler than ambient. And with oil and water over 80 degrees, the idle didn't go super-rich and lumpy as it usually had. I now consider relocating the AIT sensor a necessary mod.

I pick up the car in a few days. The A/C needs to be charged, the rear Ohlins lowered a centimeter (the irritating thing about the Ohlins design is that you have to remove the coilover to adjust the height - the expensive ones don't have that of course).

But really, what's holding things up is that the builder is trying to source a Nismo rubber cap for the cam cover breathers, so that it's symmetrical. Did I mention he's OCD?

He wants to take the oilpan off and inspect the bearings after the 1000km run-in. Is this really necessary?

The Tomei oil pump is brilliant. I haven't added any discs and oil pressure was 3.8 bars at 85 degrees at 1050rpm idle. By 3500rpm it was pushing over 7 bars. That's plenty pressure for me. I'll set the Accusump at 4 bars - higher if I go on a track day.

It felt good to be in the driver's seat. Really good.

plumwerks · 7th August 2008, 03:54 PM

Good stuff KC,now get some kms in so we can see how it really goes.
If your OCD builder wants to do an inspection at 1000kms,I say let him,it wont hurt and you'll feel better knowing how it's going.

freakazoid3 · 7th August 2008, 07:11 PM

Nice to hear she's alive and well!
I say if the builder wants to see them bearings why not let him? You already know they are one off the most fragile parts off the engine so why not? It could save you a lot off hassle and money

Maybe dumb question but what's the AIT sensor? probably short for something logic, but nothing pops to mind...yet
It probably will as soon as I press the "post" button

andy42uk · 7th August 2008, 07:13 PM

Quote "He wants to take the oilpan off and inspect the bearings after the 1000km run-in. Is this really necessary?"

No its not necessary, its insanity, if it ain't broke by then leave the dam thing alone!
I have only just learnt that kismet means 'fate' in Turkish... Fatecaptain?
Leave it to fate.
Andy.

EvolutionVI · 7th August 2008, 07:38 PM

Sounds really good,Tobi.
I would let the oilpan on,as long as you have good oilpressure,everything should be fine,checking 100 times will not make anything better!

kismetcapitan · 8th August 2008, 01:25 AM

AIT - air intake temp sensor. It's plugged into the intake plenum, and does a great job of measuring ENGINE BAY temp

zell · 8th August 2008, 09:48 AM

Great you're back on the road !
I'm really looking forward to seeing how that thing goes, as I now want to build the car close to your specification, but maybe with RB30

I would stick to the builder's advice, you know he's a good guy, right

kismetcapitan · 8th August 2008, 11:26 AM

I need to sort out the hot start engine flooding. I guess I could always start the car with the gas pedal floored, but I'd rather fix the problem!

I wonder if I have leaky injectors. I now have Aeromotive -6AN checkvalves on either end of my fuel rail, so fuel pressure can be insured - once fuel goes in, it's not going out, and even if one pump fails, the other can maintain 90% flow capacity. My base fuel pressure is 4 bars. I wonder if, on tickover, instead of a little spray, the cylinders are getting a big squirt of fuel (from overpressure).

Does anyone know if there's a way in Datalogit to directly adjust fueling for engine start only?

23rd July 2008, 09:00 AM	#77 (permalink)
kismetcapitan GTR Register Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Seoul Korea Posts: 6,401	and it should be noted - although the car had been mapped before, I am remapping from scratch. Because I had, for want of a better term, "fragile bearings", my map had about 10 degrees of timing pulled from a certain area of the map. This kept the bearing I spun (and somehow settled back in again) from acting up. I'm also shopping for NASCAR-spec Brembo racing monoblocks. These are much smaller than the monstrous calipers squeezed under 20" wheels these days. Rear 4 pots are a direct fit for the stock 298mm R32 rear rotor. Front 4 pots will take more, a 332mm rotor. A stock R34 rotor might work there. Anyways, it's a much cheaper route than spending $10-$15K for 8 pot racing monoblocks, which I really don't need anyways. Last edited by kismetcapitan; 23rd July 2008 at 09:05 AM.

7th August 2008, 02:51 PM	#83 (permalink)
kismetcapitan GTR Register Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Seoul Korea Posts: 6,401	FINALLY got to drive it today!!!! It wasn't much, about 20km of pottering about, staying under 4000rpm and trying to keep the turbos from building any boost. Once the car was warm, I tuned the injector settings and got AFRs where I want them. I'm using my old fueling map, and it seems I won't have to tweak it much, although of course I haven't seen any boost or load. The car is not significantly louder (I had the muffler box removed) but it has a boomy resonance that I find satisfying. So no regrets on that. I do have an Apexi ATS - we tried it out for a bit. It works. It sounds like complete shit - like a buzzy 1 liter Kei-car with some loud cat-back. Or more accurately, it sounds like a kazoo. But it does the silencing job well. I am having a problem - when starting the engine hot, the engine is turning over far too rich, and I have to open the throttle to get enough air in to get it to fire up. Any ideas? I don't know how in the hell I'm going to manage to stay off the boost for 1000km. But it's probably too late to do the hard and fast run-in method. Relocating the air temp sensor to the intercooler was the smartest thing I've ever done. On a scorching hot day, water temp over 80 degrees and not moving fast at all (80km tops), I finally saw realistic air temp readings - 31 degrees, slightly cooler than ambient. And with oil and water over 80 degrees, the idle didn't go super-rich and lumpy as it usually had. I now consider relocating the AIT sensor a necessary mod. I pick up the car in a few days. The A/C needs to be charged, the rear Ohlins lowered a centimeter (the irritating thing about the Ohlins design is that you have to remove the coilover to adjust the height - the expensive ones don't have that of course). But really, what's holding things up is that the builder is trying to source a Nismo rubber cap for the cam cover breathers, so that it's symmetrical. Did I mention he's OCD? He wants to take the oilpan off and inspect the bearings after the 1000km run-in. Is this really necessary? The Tomei oil pump is brilliant. I haven't added any discs and oil pressure was 3.8 bars at 85 degrees at 1050rpm idle. By 3500rpm it was pushing over 7 bars. That's plenty pressure for me. I'll set the Accusump at 4 bars - higher if I go on a track day. It felt good to be in the driver's seat. Really good. Last edited by kismetcapitan; 7th August 2008 at 02:54 PM.

7th August 2008, 07:38 PM	#87 (permalink)
EvolutionVI GTR abuser Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Stuttgart/Germany Posts: 1,776	Sounds really good,Tobi. I would let the oilpan on,as long as you have good oilpressure,everything should be fine,checking 100 times will not make anything better! __________________ _____________________________________________ March.06 --->R34GTR V-spec,my first GTR arrived March.07 --->R34GTR V-specII,a dream came true March.08 --->R35GTR,the order is placed March.09 --->R35GTR should arrive

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes	Rate This Thread
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode	Rate This Thread:

23rd July 2008, 08:41 AM	#76 (permalink)
kismetcapitan GTR Register Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Seoul Korea Posts: 6,401	I just got my latest look-see, pictures are forthcoming. The engine has been installed - the block, turbos and intake were assembled, then the transmission mounted, all while outside the car. The entire assembly was then bolted to the front subframe (removed from the car), then the subframe and engine were hoisted up into place and bolted up. One other hiccup - they forgot to mummy-wrap the exhaust manifolds. No one's perfect, and considering how nicely everything has been assembled, it would be a shame to tear it all apart again. A/C piping got all new seals; hopefully this will keep me cool. 160 amp alternator, rebuilt from an Infiniti I30 fits right it - it's a little longer, and the plug is different, but all in all it will be nice to have a lot of reserve electrical juice on tap. I will have the electric fan wired to a manual switch so I can kick it on in traffic - even when water is below 90 degrees, activating the electric fan will help the A/C run cooler. The intake temp sensor has been relocated and is now in a bung immediately after the intercooler. Getting that thing out of the engine bay is a very important thing I believe - when underhood temps get hot (when the IAT reads 70 degrees...is the intake air REALLY 70 degrees???), the idle starts to run very lean, and the surging idle is annoying in the least, and makes idle AFR tuning a headache. AAC has been cleaned and is shiny and spic-and-span. Boost solenoid has been moved to the turbo side. All vacuum hard pipes have been removed, and I just have my vacuum line running from the plenum to the solenoid. From there, it goes to a T-pipe and the wastegates have equal-length hoses from the T. All recirc garbage has been binned, the HICAS capped off and the HICAS pipes removed, and vent holes drilled behind the oil cooler so that air can actually flow through. Ohlins coilovers (the cheaper ones that I have) are a pain to adjust - you have to remove the unit and then move the spring plate. The rear of the car is getting lowered about a centimeter, the front will get lowered some more and the arches rolled. I'm no longer concerned with "usable" ride height so the car is getting dropped as far as is practical for city streets. The intercooler is being cleaned. I want to see pics of what has been living in there for the past 17 years! It's going to take awhile to break in this car - I don't drive much these days!! I am going on a 1000km plan, incrementally increasing load and boost every 100km or so. I think I'll do it on the Naegok-Bundang highway, where I've done high-speed runs. The ups and downs through the mountains should provide enough load variation, even though as a highway it's easy to get stuck at 3000rpm. 23.9km per lap, five laps a night, I can get it done in ten days fuel costs for break-in alone will run over $600 I remember when a gallon of premium cost $0.95 ($8 in Korea now). Once the car is broken in, I have booked a LOT of dynopack time. I don't plan to just run full-boost pulls, I'll get the car up to a certain rpm, lock in the load, then map every damned cell individually for optimum ignition timing. Two days dawn to dusk should be worthwhile, then an all-nighter on the road. And then...we'll run that dyno-queen pull and see just how much 2860-5s at 2 bars makes (my butt-dyno says a lot, but let's quantify this number, shall we?)

23rd July 2008, 04:25 PM	#78 (permalink)
plumwerks GTR Register Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Montreal, Canada Posts: 331	Good stuff KC,keep it going.

23rd July 2008, 04:28 PM	#79 (permalink)
MacGTR GTR Register Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Princes Risborough Posts: 1,992	Sounds like it should be a monster. One thing I have to complain about is you complaining about petrol, thats still a lot cheaper than over here, Feel lucky while it is still so cheap!

30th July 2008, 11:25 AM	#80 (permalink)
kismetcapitan GTR Register Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Seoul Korea Posts: 6,401	sorry...I'm American - I'm used to petrol costing 1/4th of what we pay!

30th July 2008, 11:26 AM	#81 (permalink)
kismetcapitan GTR Register Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Seoul Korea Posts: 6,401	question: with all the balancing and whatnot, but a Nissan crank (albeit new) and a new ATI street damper...would you redline this engine at 9000rpm??

30th July 2008, 04:11 PM	#82 (permalink)
plumwerks GTR Register Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Montreal, Canada Posts: 331	After mapping,you'll know where to redline it. Once you know where power falls off significantly,then there is no use revving it past that point.

7th August 2008, 03:54 PM	#84 (permalink)
plumwerks GTR Register Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Montreal, Canada Posts: 331	Good stuff KC,now get some kms in so we can see how it really goes. If your OCD builder wants to do an inspection at 1000kms,I say let him,it wont hurt and you'll feel better knowing how it's going.

7th August 2008, 07:11 PM	#85 (permalink)
freakazoid3 GTR Register Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Sunny Belgium...right :) Posts: 750	Nice to hear she's alive and well! I say if the builder wants to see them bearings why not let him? You already know they are one off the most fragile parts off the engine so why not? It could save you a lot off hassle and money Maybe dumb question but what's the AIT sensor? probably short for something logic, but nothing pops to mind...yet It probably will as soon as I press the "post" button

7th August 2008, 07:13 PM	#86 (permalink)
andy42uk GTR Register Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Oxford Posts: 860	Quote "He wants to take the oilpan off and inspect the bearings after the 1000km run-in. Is this really necessary?" No its not necessary, its insanity, if it ain't broke by then leave the dam thing alone! I have only just learnt that kismet means 'fate' in Turkish... Fatecaptain? Leave it to fate. Andy.

8th August 2008, 01:25 AM	#88 (permalink)
kismetcapitan GTR Register Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Seoul Korea Posts: 6,401	AIT - air intake temp sensor. It's plugged into the intake plenum, and does a great job of measuring ENGINE BAY temp

8th August 2008, 09:48 AM	#89 (permalink)
zell GTROC Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Lublin, Poland Posts: 198	Great you're back on the road ! I'm really looking forward to seeing how that thing goes, as I now want to build the car close to your specification, but maybe with RB30 I would stick to the builder's advice, you know he's a good guy, right

8th August 2008, 11:26 AM	#90 (permalink)
kismetcapitan GTR Register Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Seoul Korea Posts: 6,401	I need to sort out the hot start engine flooding. I guess I could always start the car with the gas pedal floored, but I'd rather fix the problem! I wonder if I have leaky injectors. I now have Aeromotive -6AN checkvalves on either end of my fuel rail, so fuel pressure can be insured - once fuel goes in, it's not going out, and even if one pump fails, the other can maintain 90% flow capacity. My base fuel pressure is 4 bars. I wonder if, on tickover, instead of a little spray, the cylinders are getting a big squirt of fuel (from overpressure). Does anyone know if there's a way in Datalogit to directly adjust fueling for engine start only?