Moby Dick coming together

[roadie]

I think under one of the setting tabs there is "cranking ms" with cooresponding temps. Is that what you are after ??

[zell]

Doesn't it have cranking enrichment ?


Edit:
Sorry, didn't see the above post

[kismetcapitan]

Originally Posted by roadie

I think under one of the setting tabs there is "cranking ms" with cooresponding temps. Is that what you are after ??

brilliant! I had thought for some reason that was how long the engine would crank. I'm a moron - the engine cranks as long as I hold the key

so the ms might be how long the injector stays open per crank revolution. I'll play with it

[andy42uk]

From my experience with oem ecu's there seems to be no specific 'start-up' conditions when you crank the engine....before you say otherwise let me explain...
You can bump start a car, there is no cranking, but it starts...at almost any speed.
From what I gather it is more a 0-low rpm with temperature compensation modification/pulling of the map.
It may just be bad English for ease of explanation but I think 'cranking ms' is more how the 0-low rpm (start condition) is implemented.
Feels like I'm invisible around here mostly, but hey just trying to help...

[kismetcapitan]

took delivery of the car after 5 months, and I started booting it methodically. 100km of 4000rpm redline, full throttle in 3rd and 4th (barely any boost, turbos don't really kick in that much that low), then pulls to 5000rpm, also only in 3rd and 4th (to generate suitable load and so that the engine has a good few seconds to pull the gear - 1st and 2nd are over far too quickly). Boost limiter is set at 1 bar. I will be upping the RPM limit every 50km, keeping boost at 1 bar - to break in, the rings just need to be loaded, and I'm sure 1 bar and 450+bhp is plenty enough pressure and load to break the engine in. Oil change at 200km, again at 500km (why not, mineral oil is cheap as water compared to synthetic!), and from 500km to 1000km is when I'm going to be checking and adjusting my map up to 2 bars boost, and activating my meth injection (set to kick in at 0.8bar).

at 1000km we'll hit the dynapacks and with a tankful of toluene, I'm gunning for 666whp. I'll probably add some "cheater" things like spraying the intercooler with canned air (the stuff that, when it comes out as a liquid, flash freezes on contact) and running the intake air through ice before it goes into the pods.

The builder insists on pulling the engine at that point to inspect the bearings. I've got enough evidence that his work has been dead perfect so I don't see the need, but it'll only cost me time (remember, in Korea work is billed by the job and not by the hour and I've already paid up front long ago), so why not.

I think my key decision that may make a significant difference in how well the engine breaks in, is to run mineral oil at least another 500~1000km MORE. I admit I have been influenced by the engine oil protocol for BMW motorcycles, which absolutely forbids the use of synthetic oil for 10,000 MILES!!! (the rationale being that the engine continues to gradually break in and produce an engine that is exceptionally long-lived)

Also, the hot-start problem was indeed solved by tweaking the cranking setting on the Power FC. With the engine and oil at 90 degrees, I shut it off, then took the +80 degree timing from 3.5 to 2.5, and it was far worse. Adding a millisecond (setting it to 4.5) completely got rid of start hesitation with the engine boiling hot and the A/C compressor on at startup. I love how pressing a few buttons can sort everything out

[kismetcapitan]

I checked the oil - it is so clean, I could not see where it was on the dipstick - I had to touch to feel it. Engine oil so clean, beautiful to see

mineral oil 10W-40, it's been getting real hot real fast. I'm not used to it.

I also found today that with the car lowered even further, at full lock the tires are rubbing somewhere, enough to stick and practically stop the car (this is of course only when parking, when else does one use full steering lock?

[plumwerks]

Good stuff KC,I'm waiting for the 2bar setup.

[kismetcapitan]

went out after the missus was asleep and ran my next set of pulls. 1.3 bar boost, and 4th gear - cruise in vacuum at 3000rpm, then floor it. Slow windup, very much like on a dyno. 6000rpm was the limit tonight. As soon as I hit 6000rpm, off the gas and coast down in gear back to 3000, then boot it again (highway was empty). Did a couple pulls to 7000rpm.

The full-lock steering issue went away. Dunno what that was all about.

The HKS Racing BOV sounds quite different than an SSQV. THe best I can describe it is it sounds like a bus or truck with air brakes, venting off some air. A more mature sounding BOV.

The wide open pipe is a screamer at high RPM - it is fooking loud with no muffler. Quite satisfying, it sounds like a serious uncompromised sports car.

I think I'll run two more days of street pulls, upping to 7000rpm and then 8000rpm, then head in for an oil change. Then I'll be tweaking my 2 bar map and edging up the boost.

Something, I don't know what, but the car simply does not REEK like it used to, of fuel and oil.

The Infiniti I30 160amp alternator is doing a brilliant job - the voltage is the same of course, but I can run all accessories and the car's up to it now.

One thing I need to check - it sounds like I'm getting very loud clicking sounds from the intake-side cam cover. Which usually means injectors of course, but I've been using these injectors for quite some time and they've never been this noisy. Could there be some cam issue, like the intake cam not getting enough oil?

Starting with a fresh engine that cost big money and more importantly, a huge amount of time, the beginning is always a bit paranoia-filled.

Power FC knock in the mid-20's, no odd sounds from the det cans. Full boost AFR is a rich 10.5:1.

It's good to have the car home!

[Hugo]

Wait a minute, how many miles did you put on her in the last 5 days?! Already hitting 7k rpm? Drove that much?

Good to hear she's back alive and kicking Getting ready to eat more Lamborghini's!!

Get some clips up from the exhaust note!

[GT-R Glenn]

Wait a minute, how many miles did you put on her in the last 5 days?! Already hitting 7k rpm? Drove that much?

??
How many miles does it need ?



Good one kismet.

[kismetcapitan]

really, all one needs are a few really hard and good pulls before bumping up the redline and doing the next set of pulls. At least I hope so!!

The intended redline is 9000rpm - that's why all the balancing was done. Surely it should be no problem...but I'm still chicken to run it up there!

Gradual break-in, without loading the engine at all for 1000km makes no sense to me, but I'm not a professional.

[andy42uk]

Laboring the engine is far worse than a few runs to the limiter whilst running-in, IMHO.

[Asim R32GTR]

Every RB26 engine that i have ever build i ran them in hard.

Started up, got it warm, ran the cheapest oil i could find.
Ran the car for about halv hour on different low rpms, then stopped to check things.
After that, gave it some high rpm runs, with low boost. Ran them like this for about 1hour or so.

Then back to the garage, changed oil, put in some Valvoline mineral 10/60, on the dyno the next day.

The very first engine i built and ran in like this back in 2003, still runs like hell.

I did my engine last year, and it has now passed 10.000km the other day.
Not ever used one drop of oil, nothing through the breather system, no oil leaks.
556hp 650nm at the hubs.
Trackdays as often as i can, drag racing as often as i can.
1.9bar boost all the time.
Driving on the street
Cruising
etc etc etc

You cant beat that?

Why pull the engine for inspection?

Asim

[kismetcapitan]

I need to find some 10W-60 mineral oil, the 10W-40 that's in it now gets very hot very quickly (90~100 degrees) - not quite up to the temperature rigors of a breaking in engine I think.

[SamuraiSam]

Did you read this: tips on running in a 2.8 forged engine