Moby Dick coming together - Page 8 - GT-R Register - Official Nissan Skyline and GTR Owners Club forum

kismetcapitan · 15th August 2008, 05:02 PM

I'm running the engine hard and never in a steady state - I'm either pulling, or engine braking. Sounds like I'm on a dyno, which I think is the point of driving this way.

Turns out the map I had before still works fine - a middle of the road tune. Of course, I've got on-board det cans and wideband. Rebuilding the AAC has seemed to make idle better (as in, what I punch in on the Power FC, the engine actually matches when it's warmed up)

I rolled the rear fenders and added 5mm spacers. They help finish the car's appearance, I need to do the fronts now.

kismetcapitan · 15th August 2008, 05:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SamuraiSam

Did you read this: tips on running in a 2.8 forged engine

I missed that post but I'm following the basic idea of that. No point in babying the car around.

I ran in my BMW motorcycle the same way. Brand new, 0km - as soon as the engine was warm and the bike was handed over to me, I pulled away WOT to redline through the first four gears. Believe me, that's not what the manual said to do!!

SamuraiSam · 16th August 2008, 04:11 AM

Awesome. When are going to get to see some video?

Asim R32GTR · 16th August 2008, 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kismetcapitan

I'm running the engine hard and never in a steady state - I'm either pulling, or engine braking. Sounds like I'm on a dyno, which I think is the point of driving this way.

Your run in time is long gone.
Get the car on the dyno

A couple of days ago we started a new built supra, with all possible mods.
The car was actually hooked up to the Dynapack, ran it warm, did a few pulls, changed oil, then mapped the car.
Engine didnt blow out one drop of oil, and it made almost 700 at the hubs.

How is that for a run in ? hehe...

kismetcapitan · 18th August 2008, 08:24 AM

car's going in this saturday for some preliminary dyno runs - mostly to finish fine tuning my full-boost map and get that 8000-9000 zone dialed in.

as mentioned in another thread, I had a fuel pump failure, but my failsafe system worked

Car has 90% fueling capacity on one pump - good for a solid 1.2 bar.

I have a suspicion that the holes needed to be drilled for oil return (for the Tomei baffle) aren't there. But it may just be the power of the Tomei oil pump. Anyways, sucking the sump dry is not a good thing, and my pump is on the lowest setting. The Accusump doesn't help in this situation - at redline, oil pressure falls to 6 bars (from 8 bars), but the Accusump is set to trigger at 4 bars.

Teething problems. I hope to get them all out of the way quickly. Also I hope to get the last batch of photos of my build.

Piggaz · 18th August 2008, 11:25 AM

^^^
Yes but if say you do happen to have a oil pump failure on boost... 4 bar is better then 0 bar. You are convincing me to buy one of these accusumps :P

kismetcapitan · 18th August 2008, 01:41 PM

not only is it 4 bar, but a steady 4 bar for 30-40 seconds - PLENTY of time to shut down!

I will take pictures of how I have mine installed - I went to a manual valve setup, so I can shut the Accusump off during city driving.

mifn21 · 18th August 2008, 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kismetcapitan

not only is it 4 bar, but a steady 4 bar for 30-40 seconds - PLENTY of time to shut down!

I will take pictures of how I have mine installed - I went to a manual valve setup, so I can shut the Accusump off during city driving.

Thats what I've decided to go for - cheaper too! Just got to remember to make sure the pressure is held before switching the car off

Only thing that worries me is that if your pump fails or something else causes you to lose oil pressure at 8k rpm, wouldn't it be bad to have cold oil dumped into the engine? Obviously its going to be better than no oil at all, but its something I was thinking about

kismetcapitan · 18th August 2008, 01:57 PM

I would think the cooling effect would be a Good Thing, but I'm no expert. Also consider this - 2 liters of oil are being fed into the engine over 30 seconds. It's not that fast!

mifn21 · 18th August 2008, 02:02 PM

True, its just as everyone knows you're never meant to cane an engine until the oil is upto temp which is what got me thinking

I wonder if theres a way to hook up a switch that kills the ignition if it detects a lack of oil pressure

kismetcapitan · 18th August 2008, 03:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mifn21

I wonder if theres a way to hook up a switch that kills the ignition if it detects a lack of oil pressure

there is, I saw a relay in the Summit Racing catalog that was pressure dependent. No pressure, the relay closes, no more fuel pumps.

kismetcapitan · 31st August 2008, 04:04 AM

none of my builder's hi-res pics, but some snapshots with my phone:
car back on the lift:

231km, and all innards disassembled yet again:

Notice the Tomei oil pump - as any builder should, the pump was disassembled, the gears checked, and then the backing plate reinstalled with Loctite. Not many moving parts in an oil pump, and it's a quick five minute job to make sure a pump is working.

Cosworth bearings check out as good to go:

check out the bore hone, how it holds oil even a week after disassembly - makes the bores look like glass.

all new idlers (old ones seemed ok but I'd rather not take chances), new steel grade 10.9 bolts, and the head is complete with replaced valves and valve guides.

And just for the hell of it, I've decided to add a Trust sump extension. Although the Tomei sump extension would be ideal as it doesn't extend below the front subframe crossmember, it's also $2000, TEN TIMES the price of the Trust. So Trust it is

And my oiling system now consists of: Tomei oil restrictor, Tomei oil baffle, Trust oil cooler, Trust oil extension, Canton Accusump. The whole thing will take ten liters of oil to fill, and so far as I can figure, is about as complete a wet sump system as one can do on an RB26. The only missing thing is the head drain mod - I'm not 100% sold on that, and I think the extended sump will make running the pan dry a near impossibility.

Overkill, eh?

Piggaz · 31st August 2008, 06:37 AM

^^ You forgot to include your Tomei oil pump

frostmotorsport · 31st August 2008, 06:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kismetcapitan

there is, I saw a relay in the Summit Racing catalog that was pressure dependent. No pressure, the relay closes, no more fuel pumps.

mmmm, bad! as we all know, if you're on boost and the pump fails, pressure drops, fuel pumps cut, engine runs oh so lean and bad ju ju!

better of wiring such a relay into the igition so the whole motor is cut - or even splice it into your coil loom earth so that just the ignition is cut!

my 2p anyway...

nice build KC!

kismetcapitan · 31st August 2008, 08:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Piggaz

^^ You forgot to include your Tomei oil pump

it's up in the right corner of the "innards" pic

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes	Rate This Thread
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode	Rate This Thread:

15th August 2008, 05:02 PM	#106 (permalink)
kismetcapitan GTR Register Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Seoul Korea Posts: 6,401	I'm running the engine hard and never in a steady state - I'm either pulling, or engine braking. Sounds like I'm on a dyno, which I think is the point of driving this way. Turns out the map I had before still works fine - a middle of the road tune. Of course, I've got on-board det cans and wideband. Rebuilding the AAC has seemed to make idle better (as in, what I punch in on the Power FC, the engine actually matches when it's warmed up) I rolled the rear fenders and added 5mm spacers. They help finish the car's appearance, I need to do the fronts now.

16th August 2008, 04:11 AM	#108 (permalink)
SamuraiSam GTR Register Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 390	Awesome. When are going to get to see some video?

18th August 2008, 08:24 AM	#110 (permalink)
kismetcapitan GTR Register Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Seoul Korea Posts: 6,401	car's going in this saturday for some preliminary dyno runs - mostly to finish fine tuning my full-boost map and get that 8000-9000 zone dialed in. as mentioned in another thread, I had a fuel pump failure, but my failsafe system worked Car has 90% fueling capacity on one pump - good for a solid 1.2 bar. I have a suspicion that the holes needed to be drilled for oil return (for the Tomei baffle) aren't there. But it may just be the power of the Tomei oil pump. Anyways, sucking the sump dry is not a good thing, and my pump is on the lowest setting. The Accusump doesn't help in this situation - at redline, oil pressure falls to 6 bars (from 8 bars), but the Accusump is set to trigger at 4 bars. Teething problems. I hope to get them all out of the way quickly. Also I hope to get the last batch of photos of my build.

18th August 2008, 11:25 AM	#111 (permalink)
Piggaz GTR Register Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Sydney, Australia Posts: 758	^^^ Yes but if say you do happen to have a oil pump failure on boost... 4 bar is better then 0 bar. You are convincing me to buy one of these accusumps :P

18th August 2008, 01:41 PM	#112 (permalink)
kismetcapitan GTR Register Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Seoul Korea Posts: 6,401	not only is it 4 bar, but a steady 4 bar for 30-40 seconds - PLENTY of time to shut down! I will take pictures of how I have mine installed - I went to a manual valve setup, so I can shut the Accusump off during city driving.

18th August 2008, 01:57 PM	#114 (permalink)
kismetcapitan GTR Register Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Seoul Korea Posts: 6,401	I would think the cooling effect would be a Good Thing, but I'm no expert. Also consider this - 2 liters of oil are being fed into the engine over 30 seconds. It's not that fast!

18th August 2008, 02:02 PM	#115 (permalink)
mifn21 GTROC Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: London Posts: 2,067	True, its just as everyone knows you're never meant to cane an engine until the oil is upto temp which is what got me thinking I wonder if theres a way to hook up a switch that kills the ignition if it detects a lack of oil pressure

31st August 2008, 04:04 AM	#117 (permalink)
kismetcapitan GTR Register Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Seoul Korea Posts: 6,401	none of my builder's hi-res pics, but some snapshots with my phone: car back on the lift: 231km, and all innards disassembled yet again: Notice the Tomei oil pump - as any builder should, the pump was disassembled, the gears checked, and then the backing plate reinstalled with Loctite. Not many moving parts in an oil pump, and it's a quick five minute job to make sure a pump is working. Cosworth bearings check out as good to go: check out the bore hone, how it holds oil even a week after disassembly - makes the bores look like glass. all new idlers (old ones seemed ok but I'd rather not take chances), new steel grade 10.9 bolts, and the head is complete with replaced valves and valve guides. And just for the hell of it, I've decided to add a Trust sump extension. Although the Tomei sump extension would be ideal as it doesn't extend below the front subframe crossmember, it's also $2000, TEN TIMES the price of the Trust. So Trust it is And my oiling system now consists of: Tomei oil restrictor, Tomei oil baffle, Trust oil cooler, Trust oil extension, Canton Accusump. The whole thing will take ten liters of oil to fill, and so far as I can figure, is about as complete a wet sump system as one can do on an RB26. The only missing thing is the head drain mod - I'm not 100% sold on that, and I think the extended sump will make running the pan dry a near impossibility. Overkill, eh?

31st August 2008, 06:37 AM	#118 (permalink)
Piggaz GTR Register Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Sydney, Australia Posts: 758	^^ You forgot to include your Tomei oil pump