replacing a front crank seal?

[Listerofsmeg]

How easy is this to do? the engine will be in situ.....

everything else will be out of the way (rad etc)

[gtrspecialist]

If the front pulley bolt comes off the crank, then it's a relitively easy job. Unless you've got a timing light though, try to mark up your cam position sensor on the front first before you take it off. When I've done one or helped do one, the crank pulley bolt has always been very, very tight! So tight infact that we've used a 6 foot scaffold pole and a hammer to get it off, whilst to car is in 3rd gear and we've jammed a bar through the rear prop. Sorry, but unless you've got a 2 post ramp and help it may be difficult? Hopefully not though. Goodluck

[R.I.P.S NZ]

The crank pulley bolt is very easy to get undone and definatly no need for long poles or hammers, it can be done with your thumb and 1st finger while drinking a beer, listening to the stereo while seated in your car, no stress at all.

Its a very easy job to do in place once you have the front pulley off.

Rob

[beaumackenzie]

well said rob, also the removal of the balancer only requires grease and a pin,

[gtrspecialist]

Whatever! I'm a techy and I've struggled with some, that's all. I'm not saying it will come to that though.

[Stachi]

I assume you simply turn the ignition to "start" for a short time with the right tools attached to the nut?

Marc

[fletch.rb30]

lol yep

[kismetcapitan]

do not use hammers. the bastards that hammered away to undo and redo all the bits in there when my front seal was redone should have been drawn and quartered (result - cracked oil pump housing and totally buggered woodruff key slot, I had to buy a new crank eventually). Have a giant torque wrench to reinstall the bolt - don't improvise with anything else...

But with the right tools and someone who knows what they are doing, I think the job only takes a couple hours.

[Listerofsmeg]

it actually doesnt matter now as the issue was not with the crank seal, it was a different seal (in the head) that was causing oil to run directly past the crank seal (making me think thats what it was)

[gtrspecialist]

Yes i totally agree with what you're saying. I too have seen shoddy work that's been carried out by so called qualified techy's. However I'm not some crappy techy that only has a hammer. I was merely saying that I've worked on them that were so incredibly hard to get off even with the correct tools! But I do accept that you can do it relevtively easily, it's just like any other timing belt job. It''ll be rite.

[R.I.P.S NZ]

Originally Posted by gtrspecialist

Whatever! I'm a techy and I've struggled with some, that's all. I'm not saying it will come to that though.

The only reason you have struggled with some pully bolts is because you havn't found 'the trick' yet. Its so simple it makes guys who have struggled for hours almost cry when they find out how its done.

[Madden]

What was it then neil? Cam seal?

[tweenierob]

Nope... new one on me.

The bottom CAS holder bolt hole has corroded through somehow and is leaking oil out of the threaded hole.
I couldnt understand how oil was leaking out as Neil filled the engine, had the cam seal or crank seal not seated correctly i wouldnt expect it to run out as described without the engine even turning.

All sorted now though

R.