RB30 Which block? - Page 3 - GT-R Register - Official Nissan Skyline and GTR Owners Club forum

leeroy_25 · 26th July 2008, 08:13 PM

Fletch.. You are an inspiration.. and I am loving the old school E30!

If googles maths is correct 300kw is about 400bhp at the hubs?!? and you are basically all stock bar the added boost? No cams?! Thats pretty good!

I think I know what they are but just in case.. when you refer to frost plugs do you mean the water jacket plugs/core plugs in the block? Are they a standard size you can just grab from the motor factors?

Cheers
Lee

fletch.rb30 · 26th July 2008, 08:25 PM

yea, you take them all out before you acid dip the block and machine it, then after machining, clean it well with compressor and stuff then put new plugs back in. They are pretty cheap, you just take the biggest socket you can fit inside the plug and use it as a punch to tap it into the block.

yea stock motor, 550cc injectors, link ecu, and boost. i put external coils on it because the stock ones i had were beginning to fail and they are exp to replace and the coils i used are dime a dozen + will work with stock igniter

waxer52 · 26th July 2008, 08:27 PM

Is in necessary to weld on the extra bit of steel or can you just fit the head and block of the vvt feed.

hytech · 26th July 2008, 09:42 PM

Gee fletch..........

Thanks for all the positive mentions.

fletch.rb30 · 27th July 2008, 08:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by waxer52

Is in necessary to weld on the extra bit of steel or can you just fit the head and block of the vvt feed.

na you dont need to weld to the block, you just get the feed hole int he head welded up and the water jacket made a bit smaller then get the head skimmed.
You will need to run a feed for the vvt or the bearing will run dry.

For the 26 head its a bolt on. no mods required, you can drill and tap the head bolt holes out to m12, but i think you can just leave them at the stock m11 if you want.

fletch.rb30 · 27th July 2008, 08:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hytech

Gee fletch..........

Thanks for all the positive mentions.

no worries
I got a project when i get back, going to need your help

noodl35 · 31st July 2008, 02:24 PM

Quote:

For the 26 head its a bolt on. no mods required, you can drill and tap the head bolt holes out to m12, but i think you can just leave them at the stock m11 if you want.

Can someone confirm this? You can keep the stock m11 thread and do not need to drill and retap. This doesn't sound right for some reason. Is this for a particular rb30e/t block?

rockabilly · 31st July 2008, 02:34 PM

hi mate, if you are fitting a rb25 head then you can use the 11mm bolts, i fitted an rb26 head and drilled the block to take 12mm rb26 studs.. but i am running 700bhp+ lol.bernie

noodl35 · 31st July 2008, 02:57 PM

thanks for the confirmation

R.I.P.S NZ · 31st July 2008, 08:24 PM

Absolutly without question you do not need to tap the block to 12mm to run a RB26 head on a RB30.

I run 11mm studs in a 30 block with a 26 head at around 1100hp.

In fact I steer well away from tapping to 12mm as I have seen so many get tapped slightly off square which causes all sorts of problems when it comes time to install the head.

Just my 2c.

Rob

waxer52 · 31st July 2008, 09:25 PM

Do you have to modify the water jacket or can you just bolt on the head?

R.I.P.S NZ · 31st July 2008, 10:03 PM

Bolt straight on for 26 head to RB30 block

waxer52 · 31st July 2008, 10:06 PM

Sorry forgot to say its an rb25det head.

R.I.P.S NZ · 1st August 2008, 09:17 AM

If its a R33 RB25det head it needs re-shaping near the front to match the RB30 block, we do them all the time, not a big job, just get it welded up and shaped to suit the RB30 gasket.

Rob

leeroy_25 · 1st August 2008, 12:27 PM

Rob I am glad you cleared up the head bolt issue. It's all very well if you can access a proper mill and set it all up correctly for retapping.. But I certainly wouldn't have been happy opening up the threads. I was hoping the 11mm option would be sufficent! Do you use the RB30 head bolts? Or do you need some longer or short ones?

Thanks
Lee

31st July 2008, 02:34 PM	#38 (permalink)
rockabilly rb30 710bhp Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: lancashire Posts: 1,049	hi mate, if you are fitting a rb25 head then you can use the 11mm bolts, i fitted an rb26 head and drilled the block to take 12mm rb26 studs.. but i am running 700bhp+ lol.bernie __________________ fancy the south of france. http://st-tropez.mysite.orange.co.uk/

31st July 2008, 08:24 PM	#40 (permalink)
R.I.P.S NZ GTR Register Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: Rotorua NZ Posts: 2,198	Absolutly without question you do not need to tap the block to 12mm to run a RB26 head on a RB30. I run 11mm studs in a 30 block with a 26 head at around 1100hp. In fact I steer well away from tapping to 12mm as I have seen so many get tapped slightly off square which causes all sorts of problems when it comes time to install the head. Just my 2c. Rob __________________ R34 GTR: Quickest street trim skyline in NZ, 9.7 @ 137 on 1st test pass, first meeting in the UK, 10.4 @ 144. 240z, WRH8.71 / 162 @ 2 bar, stock crank, full street trim 1972 240z, RIPS RB30, quickest/fastest Jap street car in NZ 8.71/162mph 2 bar, No NOS, street tyres. RB engine building, alloy and stainless fabrication, affordable skyline tuning and high capacity repowers, worldwide shipping arranged. e-mail rips@inspire.net.nz www.ripsltd.com

31st July 2008, 10:03 PM	#42 (permalink)
R.I.P.S NZ GTR Register Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: Rotorua NZ Posts: 2,198	Bolt straight on for 26 head to RB30 block __________________ R34 GTR: Quickest street trim skyline in NZ, 9.7 @ 137 on 1st test pass, first meeting in the UK, 10.4 @ 144. 240z, WRH8.71 / 162 @ 2 bar, stock crank, full street trim 1972 240z, RIPS RB30, quickest/fastest Jap street car in NZ 8.71/162mph 2 bar, No NOS, street tyres. RB engine building, alloy and stainless fabrication, affordable skyline tuning and high capacity repowers, worldwide shipping arranged. e-mail rips@inspire.net.nz www.ripsltd.com

1st August 2008, 09:17 AM	#44 (permalink)
R.I.P.S NZ GTR Register Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: Rotorua NZ Posts: 2,198	If its a R33 RB25det head it needs re-shaping near the front to match the RB30 block, we do them all the time, not a big job, just get it welded up and shaped to suit the RB30 gasket. Rob __________________ R34 GTR: Quickest street trim skyline in NZ, 9.7 @ 137 on 1st test pass, first meeting in the UK, 10.4 @ 144. 240z, WRH8.71 / 162 @ 2 bar, stock crank, full street trim 1972 240z, RIPS RB30, quickest/fastest Jap street car in NZ 8.71/162mph 2 bar, No NOS, street tyres. RB engine building, alloy and stainless fabrication, affordable skyline tuning and high capacity repowers, worldwide shipping arranged. e-mail rips@inspire.net.nz www.ripsltd.com

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26th July 2008, 08:13 PM	#31 (permalink)
leeroy_25 GTR Register Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 522	Fletch.. You are an inspiration.. and I am loving the old school E30! If googles maths is correct 300kw is about 400bhp at the hubs?!? and you are basically all stock bar the added boost? No cams?! Thats pretty good! I think I know what they are but just in case.. when you refer to frost plugs do you mean the water jacket plugs/core plugs in the block? Are they a standard size you can just grab from the motor factors? Cheers Lee

26th July 2008, 08:25 PM	#32 (permalink)
fletch.rb30 GTR Register Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: N.E London Posts: 58	yea, you take them all out before you acid dip the block and machine it, then after machining, clean it well with compressor and stuff then put new plugs back in. They are pretty cheap, you just take the biggest socket you can fit inside the plug and use it as a punch to tap it into the block. yea stock motor, 550cc injectors, link ecu, and boost. i put external coils on it because the stock ones i had were beginning to fail and they are exp to replace and the coils i used are dime a dozen + will work with stock igniter

26th July 2008, 08:27 PM	#33 (permalink)
waxer52 GTR Register Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 49	Is in necessary to weld on the extra bit of steel or can you just fit the head and block of the vvt feed.

26th July 2008, 09:42 PM	#34 (permalink)
hytech GTR Register Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Auckland NZ Posts: 109	Gee fletch.......... Thanks for all the positive mentions.

31st July 2008, 02:57 PM	#39 (permalink)
noodl35 GTR Register Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Oklahoma City USA Posts: 8	thanks for the confirmation

31st July 2008, 09:25 PM	#41 (permalink)
waxer52 GTR Register Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 49	Do you have to modify the water jacket or can you just bolt on the head?

31st July 2008, 10:06 PM	#43 (permalink)
waxer52 GTR Register Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 49	Sorry forgot to say its an rb25det head.

1st August 2008, 12:27 PM	#45 (permalink)
leeroy_25 GTR Register Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 522	Rob I am glad you cleared up the head bolt issue. It's all very well if you can access a proper mill and set it all up correctly for retapping.. But I certainly wouldn't have been happy opening up the threads. I was hoping the 11mm option would be sufficent! Do you use the RB30 head bolts? Or do you need some longer or short ones? Thanks Lee