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Old 2nd May 2009, 07:47 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Hicas lock bar or eliminator kit?

Guys and girls of the GTROC, I'm at the point where I now have HICAS issues on my R33 GTR and am wondering whether to fit a lock bar or the complete eliminator kit.

The lock bars are around £60 but for another £135 I can buy the total eliminator kit from Driftworks ..... Driftworks Total HICAS Eliminator ..........which replaces the HICAS steering rack, the tie rods, the tie rod ends and the outer hub end ball joints.

Is it worth me spending the extra money?

I dont know exactly why my HICAS has gone weird, I have no dash lights up, but could I still need these extra bits replacing anyway if the lock bar doesn't solve the issue, then it could cost more money and time? Just trying to weigh things up and I need some helpful advice please



Cheers

Cliff
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Old 4th May 2009, 03:05 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I had a similar problem, the car felt like it was "crabbing" at dual carriage way sort of speeds. So after getting everything re-aligned the problem was still there.

I then made sure the steering wheel was straight and re-set the ecu. Took it for a drive problem solved. Its always the simplest things (if you havent already done this)!
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Old 4th May 2009, 03:21 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Good info Mr Furrywoolyhatuk Sadly I've already tried this and its not sorted the problem out So, here I am with the lock-bar or eliminator kit dilema.
I keep going to buy the eliminator kit but at around 4 times the cost of the lock bar, which could do the trick, I'm having mental battles
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Old 4th May 2009, 04:10 PM   #4 (permalink)
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When you say it gone wierd how does the car behave, what sort of speeds does this occur?
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Old 4th May 2009, 06:48 PM   #5 (permalink)
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The cars back end lurches when you change lanes on the motorway, and also, when you boot the car from 70-100, when you let off the back end wiggles about and its really unsettling, pretty damn scarey really. This just suddenly came on 2 weeks ago after a year of faultless driving.
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Old 4th May 2009, 06:49 PM   #6 (permalink)
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mate there is a HUUGGGEEE thread on here if ya hit the search button
that has pages upon pages of why the hicas might go
and for/against locking it out or removing the hicas
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Old 4th May 2009, 09:31 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Yeah I've read it, what I want to know is whether to fit the lock bar or the total eliminator kit for the extra money and if its worth spendiing the extra cash.
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Old 4th May 2009, 09:58 PM   #8 (permalink)
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from what ive heard and ive done a lot of looking into it
the total eminator kits are the dogs bits
and the driftworks one probably being the best
although expect a nice lively rear end (more so :P)
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Old 5th May 2009, 10:20 PM   #9 (permalink)
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As it goes, I might have an answer to my HICAS issues!!!!
It all went wrong the 1st time I took the car out after fitting a super loud Kakimoto exhaust, which isn't sitting quite right and vibrates on the rear ARB at the minute.
From reading around, it appears vibration has been known to cause the HICAS to go metal on the R33 with loud exhausts and big bass systems being the source....... so I'll just fit a lock bar and lose it
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Old 6th May 2009, 09:18 AM   #10 (permalink)
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well lets me put it this way....The lock bar will note cure all problems if you have your ball joints worn, so at some point you need to replace them also. as most cases it is the ball joints that are worn...So Yes it is worth the extra money as you remove any item that can cause a rear wheel steering problem.
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Old 6th May 2009, 11:28 AM   #11 (permalink)
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thinking about a full kit also but does it replacce the ball joints aswell cheers
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Old 6th May 2009, 09:57 PM   #12 (permalink)
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the best method i have used for DEATH CAS is a tomei lock kit really cheap and easy and you can fit a s13 pas pump to get rid of cas lines and double vain pas pump it fits with no mods if any one is doing a conversion on there r32 use a s13 subrame fits perfect with no mods and then there is no ball joints to wear out either .. ditch the DEATH CAS HA HA
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Old 18th May 2009, 12:46 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iceager View Post
well lets me put it this way....The lock bar will note cure all problems if you have your ball joints worn, so at some point you need to replace them also. as most cases it is the ball joints that are worn...So Yes it is worth the extra money as you remove any item that can cause a rear wheel steering problem.
Absolutely agree, this is the problem I have. I bought a lock out bar but there's no point in fitting it as my ball joints are worn
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Old 21st May 2009, 12:28 AM   #14 (permalink)
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also for the guys with r33 the 200sx s14 subframe bolts straight in so complete elimination really dont buy a lock bar
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Old 7th January 2017, 09:06 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Old thread resurrection, but we can supply hicas parts people need
I was searching and this came up


Skyline Hicas lock kits from TMS Motorsport

Get in touch if you need any help
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Old 19th January 2017, 01:38 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I have the drift works total eliminator because the rose joints went on the OEM arms. Been fine. Only problem I have had is the rubber boots have perished because they catch on the subframe.
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