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View Poll Results: best RB26 fan system
viscous - if it ain't broke, don't fix it 119 63.30%
electric - on when you want it, off when you don't. Also gains you about 4bhp 69 36.70%
Voters: 188. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 12th December 2010, 12:32 AM   #41 (permalink)
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My vote is for viscous, but maybe an electric AC style clutch in the fan center would also be worth a try. That way above certain road speeds you can turn it off and let if free spin, yet at idle and at some higher engine temps it can be switched back on.

I think more importantly than the fans though is getting rid of the hot air. If your stuck in traffic or idling after a run on the track, engine temps can skyrocket if the hot air isnt exhausted away from the radiator so cool air can be drawn in.

Making sure your shoud fits the radiator properly and seals against it, having good quality foam seals, and keeping your under trays and adding a cooling panel goes a long way to stopping recirculating hot air.

I learnt this from my air cooled vw's. An air leak in a pressurised air cooling system, or recirculating hot is is basically the same as having a coolant leak in a fluid cooling system.

I've also just added a greddy breather tank to extract every last bit of air from the system. Im stunned as to how well it works, and the temps have dropped a good 5-8 degrees by just adding that and a cooling panel in front of the radiator.

Edit:

Ambient air temps where I live at the moment in summer in the middle of the day hit 38 degrees, and even hotter on the road with a humidity frequently above 90%. Ive seen people try shrouded and un-shrouded electric setups on fancy custom cross flow radiators. They all end up over heating. Factory setups are just far more reliable, and they work over a much wider range of enviromental conditions. Electric setups seem to only work well on cool days.
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Old 23rd December 2010, 10:25 AM   #42 (permalink)
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just a little question , is the viscous system run all the time?

my fan is running when i start the car (cold).

Thanks
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Old 23rd December 2010, 10:52 AM   #43 (permalink)
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They do run all the time to a degree, but slip more when cold and above 4000 rpm.

To be accurate they slip more when the internal pressure of the viscous coupling requires it to slip. Which will happen when you rev the throttle momentarily, or operate the engine at a high RPM for a while.

The loading on the viscous coupling is based on inertia of the fan, drag from wind resistance, and the RPM difference between the fan hub and the input shaft. Nissan know what they are doing when they develop these things. And Ive yet to see an electric fan that could move as much air as a factory fan can at 4000 rpm.
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Old 23rd December 2010, 10:57 AM   #44 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ODEngines View Post
They do run all the time to a degree, but slip more when cold and above 4000 rpm.

To be accurate they slip more when the internal pressure of the viscous coupling requires it to slip. Which will happen when you rev the throttle momentarily, or operate the engine at a high RPM for a while.

The loading on the viscous coupling is based on inertia of the fan, drag from wind resistance, and the RPM difference between the fan hub and the input shaft. Nissan know what they are doing when they develop these things. And Ive yet to see an electric fan that could move as much air as a factory fan can at 4000 rpm.
thanks, so mine is working fine.
Was a bit worry when i see the price of a new one
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Old 24th December 2010, 08:21 PM   #45 (permalink)
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4hp?? WTF?? 4hp and 12v is 233 amps. Thats one hell of a fan.

Where does 4HP come from?
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Old 9th January 2011, 09:36 AM   #46 (permalink)
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I guess it's just a guess then?
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Old 22nd January 2011, 07:00 PM   #47 (permalink)
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viscous
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Old 25th December 2011, 04:53 PM   #48 (permalink)
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I've used both and found viscous to be more reliable
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Old 2nd July 2013, 07:18 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Just thought I would bump this thread and get some (new) info. I was thinking of upgrading my radiator to 50mm and came across this shroud with electric fans:

NISSAN SKYLINE R32 ALUMINIUM RADIATOR FAN SHROUD WITH TWIN ELECTRIC FANS | eBay

Has there been any progress with electric fan cooling? General thoughts?
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Old 2nd July 2013, 07:36 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Be aware a lot of alloy "high performance" rads actually have lower heat rejection than a new OE one. I had two well known after market alloy rads for the JZA80 twin turbo Supras tested and they both were markedly inferior to a new stock one.... To have a better rad made inside the same height and width restrictions, even with a thicker core (which is not necessarily a good thing to do) would entail me selling them at about a grand a piece. I made and sold two, and as imagined, demand was not great.

An engine driven fan, with the thermostatically controlled stock hub in near full engagement (engine hot) probably uses a couple of BHP. An electric motor that size would not fit, and would put infeasible demands on the cars electrical system. You are better off with an engine driven fan and good ducting to utilise the ram effect from forward motion. Some electric fans and motors are just a joke.
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Old 4th July 2013, 10:28 AM   #51 (permalink)
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fan

I have an r32gtr running about 440whp and fitted a 50 mm Japspeed type rad
and you will find it a tight fit-I couldn't use the viscous fan or the oem shroud because of clearance.
I used a single 16 in electric fan with the oem ac fan in conjunction
(I have removed the rest of the ac).
It has worked fine with to date no issues even in M25 type traffic queues
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Old 4th July 2013, 10:46 AM   #52 (permalink)
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My comments were based on cars used on track, either "track days" or competitively, rather than on an urban commute. I know Andy Middlehurts found the only way for reliable cooling when he ran his R32 GTR's in British endurance races was with a stock fan, but with the viscous coupling locked up, so the fan had direct drive. Noisy, somewhat power wasteful, but it worked. Efficiencies of fan blade design apart, it's a simple matter of Watts. To move X amount cubic meters of air through a pressure drop of Y, demands Z amounts of Watts. IMO electric fan motors don't cut it on competitively run cars unless huge care with low restriction through a FMIC and correct ducting is applied.
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Old 4th July 2013, 06:13 PM   #53 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by microg View Post
I have an r32gtr running about 440whp and fitted a 50 mm Japspeed type rad
and you will find it a tight fit-I couldn't use the viscous fan or the oem shroud because of clearance.
I used a single 16 in electric fan with the oem ac fan in conjunction
(I have removed the rest of the ac).
It has worked fine with to date no issues even in M25 type traffic queues
Thats interesting. I always though 50mm would be a straight drop in (minus the shroud).

I'll probably now stay with the stock setup.
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Old 5th July 2013, 09:24 AM   #54 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Wilson View Post
My comments were based on cars used on track, either "track days" or competitively, rather than on an urban commute. I know Andy Middlehurts found the only way for reliable cooling when he ran his R32 GTR's in British endurance races was with a stock fan, but with the viscous coupling locked up, so the fan had direct drive. Noisy, somewhat power wasteful, but it worked. Efficiencies of fan blade design apart, it's a simple matter of Watts. To move X amount cubic meters of air through a pressure drop of Y, demands Z amounts of Watts. IMO electric fan motors don't cut it on competitively run cars unless huge care with low restriction through a FMIC and correct ducting is applied.
Thats interesting Chris as I was toying with replacing my viscous with a twin electric setup kind of like this...HERE

2 fans, 4000cfm apiece......but a whopping 50A draw

Ideally data logs from 2 cars, 1 running a fixed fan assy like yours Chris and 1 with a twin fan setup would be available for comparison. I can see how the fixed viscous would be working ALL the time and providing some benefit whereas the electrics would be all but redundant until stopped.
Something to consider but I'm beginning to shy away from the electrics in favour of your fixed viscous setup......

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Old 5th July 2013, 09:54 AM   #55 (permalink)
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The waste heat rejection of a highly modded turbocharged engine of over 2.5 litres is pretty awesome. Bugatti had to do some amazingly complex work to make their "supercar" work at Autobahn speeds, I can't recall just how many heat exchangers the thing has, a "silly" amount.... Don't believe that fans are redundant at arduous highway or race / track day speeds, we don't enjoy the wind tunnels F1 use to get the air flow and core pressure drops mapped out. We nail IC's and oil coolers and other stuff in front of our water heat exchangers, and remove ducts. We remove or fidddle with undertrays that were carefully designed to give a steep pressure gradient between rad inlet and engine bay exit. On track a hard driven Skyline will almost certainly need a lot of additional support from the fan system, as well. Good luck.
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Old 3rd April 2016, 11:58 AM   #56 (permalink)
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The Bugatti has 10 various radiators/ coolers iirc.

My GTO came from the factory with electric fans and in the 11 years I've owned it they've never given any bother at all..
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Old 3rd April 2016, 12:08 PM   #57 (permalink)
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i haven't been their but I'm told japan can get very hot,I'm thinking that they made the car with a viscous for a very good reason,and for that reason I'm sticking with it,i realise improvements come along as time moves on,but if it aint broke don't fix it,or more to the point some people get into a pattern of spending vast amounts of money on their car,thinking it makes them better,all i say is carry on.

this of course is just my 10p worth.


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Old 28th April 2016, 07:01 AM   #58 (permalink)
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I'm still in the thought process of fitting this, I like the sound of the benefits but the cons hmm not sure



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Old 28th April 2016, 07:08 AM   #59 (permalink)
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Nothing wrong with the factory setup with shroud.
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Old 28th April 2016, 07:52 AM   #60 (permalink)
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That electric fan and shroud setup is appallingly bad!!!


And the top tank design of the rad is no better.... Just done like that for minimal manufacturing cost and maximum ease of generic fitment. BAD!!!!
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