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Old 10th February 2013, 02:12 PM   #1 (permalink)
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R32 Battery Relocation to Boot

Ok, this is a basic guide to what I did when relocating my battery to the boot of my r32gtr.

I am using an optima yellow top placed inside a Motorsport frp battery box bought off ebay. The box is made to fit a battery of a certain size, so it's a good snug fit.

I started by welding a plate to the near side boot floor and then bolted the battery box to it. I have some dzus fasteners coming to fix the lid. Excuse the tape for now.

For the negative side I welded a m8 bolt to the floor next to the battery and ran my cable straight to it using a crimped termination on one end and a bolt on battery terminal on the other.

I mounted a megafuse box to the side of the battery box for the positive lead, fitted with a 125amp fuse,(i may buy a 150amp incase this blows).


The cable used is 25mm2 csa rated to 170amps.
I bought 7 metres as I was unsure where I was going to route the cable but I have about 1.5-2 metres left over, so you may get away with less.
The megafuse box uses 8mm bolts so I crimped 25mm2/8mm terminations on the ends.


I used 20mm flexible conduit as added protection for my positive cable on its journey through the car(£3.89 for 5m in wickes)
The cable runs back to the bulkhead, across to the drivers side and then through behind the rear seat.


It then follows the drivers side sill under the carpet all the way through to the drivers footwell, behind the trim under the bonnet pull, then through to the engine bay. This is tricky to get through the bulkhead, I have a length of cable through the bulkhead that is only there for pulling cables

The cable then runs underneath the throttle cable and around to where the battery used to be.

You can see the white conduit here which is 5metres long, almost reaches all the way.

I bought a 300amp connector(again 8mm bolts) and ran my new positive to one side.
I crimped a new termination on the original positive lead and modified the end of the fusible link to suit and bolted these to the other side.
This completed the positive side of things

Once I have cleaned back and repainted under where the battery used to be I will remount/reroute these positive cables but this works for now.

I now welded another 8mm bolt to the bodywork where the battery used to be and bolted the negative lead to it. My car also came with an earthing kit fitted so this was shortened and also bolted to the chassis here. You can never have too many decent earths!

Plenty of dirt and surface rust under here, job for warmer weather I think.

Most of he stuff was bought from vehicle wiring products - Vehicle Wiring Products Ltd. Suppliers of auto electrical parts.

The crimped terminations I 'borrowed' from work.

A big thanks to Cris on here for the links to hardware used in another thread, he also has a project thread if you need more info

https://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/130143-ba...tion-kits.html

Cheers
Mark
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Old 1st April 2013, 11:17 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Good job just had mine done at the Gtr shop.
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Old 1st April 2013, 01:31 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Nice work Mark. I was thinking some of the component looked familiar. I might do as you have and do my megafuse down to 125A if yours works out. Live the way you've run it inside the car. Much better than outside.

One thing you might already know is when you crimp the 8mm rings it's (IMHO) a good idea to solder them too. I do this by poking the solder down the ring next to the cable and heating the ring socket with a blow torch. Once it's full of solder the joint Is very strong and removes the worry of the rings coming off. Obviously wrapping the ring end in tape if the aren't enclosed is good too.
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Old 1st April 2013, 02:51 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Hi cris, 125amp has been fine so far.
I didn't bother soldering the ends as my works electrician didn't feel it necessary if I wasn't constantly messing around with the connections.

As for the green bits on the ends, they are little rubber sleeves that they gave me, called hellerman sleeves?
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Old 1st April 2013, 11:06 PM   #5 (permalink)
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As for the green bits on the ends, they are little rubber sleeves that they gave me, called hellerman sleeves?
I'll have to look out for them. I've just used sticky insulation tape but those look nicer!
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Old 7th May 2013, 01:10 AM   #6 (permalink)
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how you've done the wiring is valid, and will work fine, but there is a alternative way of doing it

if the mega fuse blows the engine will still run

if you run another suitable wire and extend the alternator charge wire as well is the alternate way:

see here in the comments it explains it better than i can

GSX Battery Relocation - YouTube
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Old 11th May 2013, 07:24 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I'm a complete noob when it comes to electrics but I need to relocate the battery. Here's what I'm thinking:

- Bosch silver battery Halfords | Bosch Silver Car Battery HSB010 comes with 5 year warranty, would go optima red top but would like to buy from a shop
- 2x 150amp fuse
- 2x mega fuse holders
- 196/40 awg black cable 5 metres
- Battery tray
- 2 battery terminals, which ones?
- 300a Junction box
- Earthing braid? Length? What sleeve? Crimps? How many?
- Noticed they sell braided hoses, which size would I need for cam covers? I think I have -12 fittings.

Edit: was searching for grounding kits and came across this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/D1-PERFORM...item3cd0fd7876

seems to be pricey for just some leads. I should be able to use the leads from http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...e/homepage.php and make my own grounding straps? What's so specific about the kit? Am I missing something?
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Old 12th May 2013, 08:09 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I've ordered the bits from vwp to do this too, let us know how you get on CSB.

planning to just clamp down the battery rather than box it. I guess if its good enough for the r33 its good enough for me. Not racing or anything so no regs to worry about.
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Old 14th May 2013, 10:04 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I've ordered the bits from vwp to do this too, let us know how you get on CSB.

planning to just clamp down the battery rather than box it. I guess if its good enough for the r33 its good enough for me. Not racing or anything so no regs to worry about.
If the battery is a normal battery (i.e. not a dry cell or whatever) then I'd suggest running a breather from the battery to the outside of the car. Battery acid in the boot would not be fun!
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Old 14th May 2013, 10:18 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
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If the battery is a normal battery (i.e. not a dry cell or whatever) then I'd suggest running a breather from the battery to the outside of the car. Battery acid in the boot would not be fun!
Good point, even if it's in a box I think you'd need to vent, otherwise you'd potentially have a tasty pressurized hydrogen canister.

Oddly all the batteries I've bought recently don't have the vents in, they're not dry cell or anything, just "sealed" or "maintenance free" or something that means they don't have vents.

The 911 has the battery in the front boot and that has a vent tubing and a little baby expansion tank from the factory, but again the last couple of batteries I've had haven't had vents to plug into it. Interestingly the earth and live cables both run through the interior of the car back to the engine - I say interesting because it seems Porsche didn't want to run the main earth path through the chassis and because I've read some race/drag regulations require you to run the battery cables on the outside of the car.
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Old 14th May 2013, 10:51 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Good point, even if it's in a box I think you'd need to vent, otherwise you'd potentially have a tasty pressurized hydrogen canister.

Oddly all the batteries I've bought recently don't have the vents in, they're not dry cell or anything, just "sealed" or "maintenance free" or something that means they don't have vents.

The 911 has the battery in the front boot and that has a vent tubing and a little baby expansion tank from the factory, but again the last couple of batteries I've had haven't had vents to plug into it. Interestingly the earth and live cables both run through the interior of the car back to the engine - I say interesting because it seems Porsche didn't want to run the main earth path through the chassis and because I've read some race/drag regulations require you to run the battery cables on the outside of the car.
My battery box isn't sealed. It has vents on the top. I could end up with acid sloshing around the bottom of it but I was aware of this so didn't drill the box low down.

Fair point about the sealed batteries.

I can see the idea of cables outside the car (mine are). Personally I wish I'd put them inside as I think it's safer. I cannot comment on not using the chassis as earth. Maybe there is a reason for this that isn't immediately apparent.
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Old 14th May 2013, 11:27 AM   #12 (permalink)
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What is the advantage of putting the battery in the boot?
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Old 14th May 2013, 11:46 AM   #13 (permalink)
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My personal reasons for doing it were
1- wanted a bigger, better battery as I had trouble leaving mine more than a few days.
2- weight transfer( not a lot I know but I have removed about 35 kgs from the rear of the car last year so moving some backwards can't be bad.
3- bit of extra room in the engine bay
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Old 14th May 2013, 11:59 AM   #14 (permalink)
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My personal reasons for doing it were
1- wanted a bigger, better battery as I had trouble leaving mine more than a few days.
2- weight transfer( not a lot I know but I have removed about 35 kgs from the rear of the car last year so moving some backwards can't be bad.
3- bit of extra room in the engine bay
As above really, which I guess are similar reasons to why Nissan did it in the R33 onwards.

The weight of the battery isn't much (10kg? for the stock little one) but effect on the weight distribution is like taking twice the weight out of the front of the car.

Also I'd really like a bit more room for a oil filter relocation at some point, to make for less fraught and messy oil changes.
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Old 14th May 2013, 03:10 PM   #15 (permalink)
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So what do you think, best to make my own grounding straps using the cable from vwp?
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Old 14th May 2013, 03:15 PM   #16 (permalink)
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So what do you think, best to make my own grounding straps using the cable from vwp?
Well that's my plan, I've ordered red cable so I'll either wrap a section with black insulting tape or spray ti with plastidip to make a black cable for the earth strap.
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Old 6th June 2013, 07:58 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I got all my bits through vwp but I didn't really like their cable, I got some amplifier 0awg earth and power off ebay for a better price.

Anyway it was pretty much straight forward.

Started off by welding the battery tray in the center. Ran that cable through the rear seats, to the front and pulled it out through the arch. Had to pull back the arch liner to get it through, quite tricky but ok.



Get the junction box and connect the standard power cable to one side with new crimps. Connect the new power cable to the other end. I also cut the standard negative cable back to the chassis where it was already grounding, as you can see near the bottom.



Then connect the new power cable to the 150amp fuse at the back. Then connect the power cable from the fuse box to the battery.



That completes the positive side. The negative side I just ran a 0awg earth cable to the seatbelt bolt.



The finished product, welded solid. Can't really see it coming off. Battery was 11"x7". Of course I'd have to remove the strut brace to remove the battery but that isn't a big deal.

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Old 6th June 2013, 08:35 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Nice work.
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Old 7th June 2013, 08:20 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Nice work.
Thanks. Was down to your simple instructions tbh. Not really experienced with electronics so your guide helped a lot!
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Old 24th July 2016, 12:23 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Great work by the OP and CSB. I'm looking to do this soon also.
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