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Old 10th December 2004, 12:38 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Spec check

Here is the best list I can assemble of the planned spec of my car once finished. It's not anything ground-breaking, or ridiculous power, and as such it's no great secret either. I am aiming to be driving the car in March next year.

I would be extremely grateful for people's input on any aspect of it! I can change everything and anything about it at this stage because the engine is stripped and the car is sitting at the side of my house. Stuff you think I've missed out, stuff you think I dont need, suggestions for alternatives to the parts I've chosen (esp. cheaper alternatives ) etc etc

THE LIST:

R33 RB26 block, bored +1mm
87mm forged pistons (possibly Wiseco)
Standard conrods, lightened and balanced
Standard (R32) crank, balanced and reground
Standard bearings, new set

Head ported and polished (discovered, not done by myself)
3 angle seats
Bronze valve guides
New set of valve stem seals
Standard cams, R33 exhaust cam as the original one snapped on installation
NGK #7 iridium spark plugs.

Cometic 1.2mm steel head gasket
HKS metal throttle body, inlet and exhaust gaskets
New set of turbo gaskets, standard
ARP rod bolts
New standard cambelt

Apexi PowerFC and Hand Commander
GReddy Profec B spec II boost controller

Standard radiator
Standard Intercooler
Standard water pump
Standard oil pump (new)
Planning to keep Hicas / aircon / ABS systems

Apexi induction kit
Z32 AFMs + adapter harnesses

N1 turbos

HKS turbo elbows
HKS downpipes
SumoPower decat
Trust SS Evolution cat-back exhaust

SARD 700cc / Denso 720cc injectors
Nismo fuel pump
Nismo fuel presure regulator

Weapon-R oil catch tank
Mocal oil filter relocation kit

Nismo 320kph speedo, and MPH converter box removed

OS Giken twin plate clutch
17x9.5 Volk Racing wheels, with 255/40 ZR17 tyres
N1 discs + Ferodo DS2500 pads front / standard discs + pads rear

Already installed carbon-fibre rear spoiler, carbon-fibre bonnet arriving early next year. Which has nothing to do with anything really, just thought I'd complete the picture

Um, thats about it I suppose

I'd also be interested in what sort of power you think I could be looking at with all of the above.

Many thanks,

Jeff
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Old 10th December 2004, 12:40 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Have you considered the Power FC D-Jetro?

Then you can ditch the AFM's
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Old 10th December 2004, 12:45 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thumbs up Nice spec, very nice indeed.

Thoughts:

I would revise the turbo gaskets to be metal.

Get a Tomei sump baffle kit in there.

Get slightly uprated cams (HKS Stage 1 256/264 or Tomei Poncam B 260/260).

Add an A'PEXi small intercooler.

Upgrade your oil & water pumps.
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Last edited by jae; 10th December 2004 at 12:53 PM..
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Old 10th December 2004, 12:46 PM   #4 (permalink)
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-C- I did consider it, but I have already purchased the AFMs second-hand, from SkylineUSA, as they were a good price

Inlet gaskets are indeed metal HKS ones
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Last edited by Pikey; 10th December 2004 at 12:49 PM..
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Old 10th December 2004, 12:47 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Sounds great Jeff, looking forward to seeing it on the road next year.
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Old 10th December 2004, 01:02 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I see a lot of people with some sort of oil catch tanks.

You said your getting a Weapon-R oil catch tank. Is this just for bling, or is it functional?

Sounds good mate. I guess you will be running 1.2 ish bar on that?

I guess that would be between 415 and 450bhp - ?
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Old 10th December 2004, 01:04 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Although in saying that, I bet its more than the power I have guestimated.

What are you hoping for?
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Old 10th December 2004, 01:08 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Catch tank was bought for £25, and is both bling and functional, although I will need some new hose, much like Dino's setup

After initial research into N1s I was hoping for 650bhp, but I've done much more since then, and listened to various people's opinions, and there are some things that may not be quite up to task (cams, oil issues, gearbox for example) so I think 550bhp is more of an appropriate figure to aim for

But more would be nice, of course
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Old 10th December 2004, 01:26 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Kevlar cam belt? That was fitted to my car before the metal head gasket
Also Nismo thermostat?
I am running 500bhp @ 1.2 bar on HKS2510's and HKS cams (256 I think).
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Old 10th December 2004, 01:46 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Looks a bit like my spec

N1s should get you about 550 safely, maybe a bit more
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Old 10th December 2004, 02:04 PM   #11 (permalink)
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jae - the standard turbo gaskets are metal

davewilkins - I considered the Nismo thermostat, but I'm going to test the one that was in my car first, to see if an uprated one has already been fitted. Even then I'm not sure an uprated one would be best for me, as the car will be my main transport and sometimes I will be using it for short journeys where I want the car to warm up asap. I will be taking it on track, but only say a couple of times a year.

Kevlar cambelt might be a good call. I dont believe they are too expensive either. Might add one to my Nengun order whenever I place it.

I am not going for a bigger intercooler, or an oil cooler at this stage, as I dont honestly think either of them is necessary. Having said that though, if oil temp becomes an issue it's dead simple to retrofit a cooler if I put the Mocal relocation kit on at this stage
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Old 10th December 2004, 02:12 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Pikey,

I'm with Jae on everything, but I'd definately do the oil and water pumps now and a sump baffle if nothing else.

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Old 10th December 2004, 02:14 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pikey
-C- I did consider it, but I have already purchased the AFMs second-hand, from SkylineUSA, as they were a good price

Inlet gaskets are indeed metal HKS ones
Ah thats cool - the Z32 type ones shouldnt be a restriction at those sort of power levels I dont think anyway!

Only other thing would maybe be a better oil pump other than a standard one? People do seem to suffer from oil pump failures a lot...
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Old 10th December 2004, 03:04 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Others may disagree Jeff but I've been told (by those that know) that regrinding the stock crank is not on especially if you're looking for reasonable power levels...

Why stock bearings and oil pump? If it's a cost issue, I would sacrifice something else in the short term and get those fitted now while you've got the chance to fit them along with a Trust sump...

Stock cams will limit your power levels, at 1.2bar, I would think you should make around 520 - 530ish although they're so easy to fit, they can be done when funds allow.

Otherwise, spec looks really cool. Bet you can't wait!
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Old 10th December 2004, 03:41 PM   #15 (permalink)
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imho uprated bearings are only needed if your oil system is that bad the bearings are being touched in the first place, prevention is better than cure.

std intercooler should be fine if its in good nick, std one is capable of well over 600bhp, tho ive never ever seen tests on GTR ones with regard to the charge temp so its hard to judge how bad the std one is, and how good an aftermarket one is, but the GrpA cars ran std ones, so stick with it for now IMO.

id get the rods shot peened, much stronger, good for a safe 650, and dont cost much.

maybe get the dremmel out n match the manifold ports to the head, as they a long way out as std, even more so if your head been ported...

std cams arnt bad when using big turbos, but a bit more of a restriction when using smaller ones IMO, so maybe a fairly mild set of cams, tho that could be done at a later date.

I think as long as your not too shy with the boot levels (ie go for it) youl get a bloody good result from that spec mate
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Old 10th December 2004, 05:18 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Yeah - I'm leaving the cams for now, especially as the head has been built up and the shims have been adjusted to the correct clearances.

Regrinding the stock crank down to the next tolerance shouldn't be a problem. That's why you can order bearings from Nissan in different sizes: to cope with regrinds and subsequent regrinds - provided the damage isn't too bad, which on mine it isnt

Standard oil pump was ordered along with a load of other stuff before I realised I had N1 turbos. So I assumed a max. power of 400-450 with rebuilt standard turbos, and specced bearings, oil pump, and single plate clutch to cope with that power level. I have subsequently sold the clutch (losing over £300 on it )

MechRepairs could knock up a wonderful extended and baffled sump for me, I might have a word with Andy this weekend. Although I'm not entirely convinced the baffling is necessary I can see the advantages of a sump extension (my 1.6l Civic had the same oil capacity - 4.5l )

I never considered attacking my head / manifolds with a dremmel - Im sure I would **** something up
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Old 10th December 2004, 05:22 PM   #17 (permalink)
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You should put cams in it, you will never get much power at sensible boost on the stock ones. If the budget runs to it JUN sell Cosworth pistons for it, and they are infinitely better than anything apart from Omega ones...
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Old 13th December 2004, 10:44 AM   #18 (permalink)
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The R33 crank is a better option. The oil pump drive is stronger and is less lightly to 'burst' the oil pump internals. This can be overcome by using a sleeve that fits over the crank and allows the use of a R33 pump. JUN sell these I think and maybe there are other suppliers.
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Old 13th December 2004, 11:28 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Yeah I've seen for myself the crap design of the R32 crank / pump

As far as I know though, the oil pumps are the same - just the length of the drive area on the crank that differs? And my old crank / pump lasted nearly 50,000 miles, so I figure I should be alright for the foreseeable

I will be putting some effort into getting the sump extended and baffled

Anyone know where I can get the Apexi kit to suit the Z32 AFMs from?
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Old 13th December 2004, 01:09 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I think Abbey do the Apexi induction kits. they do the standard AFM fitment and are quite resonable (I think they are £200 perhaps plus vat for the kit).

I guess they might be able to supply what you need.
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