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Old 8th April 2016, 07:49 AM   #41 (permalink)
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Coil leads just looks tacky IMO.
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Old 8th April 2016, 07:50 AM   #42 (permalink)
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Coil lead is a constant source of problems. These are simply the best and in the same time cheapest solution if u have under 1000hp, and u can count those here on your hand's fingers, no need for toes
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Old 8th April 2016, 08:20 AM   #43 (permalink)
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Coil leads allow the coil to be kept cool. Coil leads stop the direct heat transfer from the engine ( the reason why a spring is used ) .Direct copper spring clip connection gives a better spark but the heat is greater. Coil on plug saves money. HT leads never give a problem in my opinion if they are decent quality. Most of the issues on the RB are roasted coils or tracking over the removable boots. The coil itsself is good. There are better coils out there so for me I run with the coil cover off most of the time so remote or coil on plug no difference for me.
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Old 8th April 2016, 10:56 AM   #44 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2drift View Post
hi, no problem.

sadly for some reason i can't post any pic's to show you what has to be changedso will have to write it all and hope you will understand it

here goes ; you need to remove the igniter pack from the top of the engine and make up a plug/connecter to join the wires etc.
on the top of the igniter it has numbers (1'2'3'4'5'6'g ) on it on the in and out side showing where each wire goes in each plug.
now join the wires 1 to 1, 2 to2, 3 to 3, 4 to 4, 5 to 5, 6 to 6 & g to g
be very careful to get them in the correct order ( they are all the same colour,pink, eccept for the ground which is black)

next you need to change the coil pac plugs from s1(brown) to s2(grey) type
when changing these the position of some of the wires need to be changed
on the coil pac's you will see some markings, on the s1 will be -,+,E and on the s2 will be +,-,IB.
on s1 - is the ecu trigger signal, + is the 12volts and E is the ground/earth to chassi.
on the s2 + is 12volts, - is ground/earth and IB is the ecu trigger signal.
just move the wires to the new positions you are finished

hope this helps and you understand what i have written

mark
So found this info for removing the igniter pack is it really that simple? also with these Audi coils so you just run an extra earth ? ( i.e. 3 pin vs 4 pin )
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Old 8th April 2016, 11:33 AM   #45 (permalink)
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As long as you get a good -ve and + ve to the coils where they draw the power, then the trigger ( the 5v signal ) is connected to each coil then all is ok. Its a simple conversion. Some coils have a separate ground for the trigger signal to keep the signal clean. Some coils that include the igniter have additional capacitor circuit that allows additional current and aid the spark a sort of CDI.
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Old 8th April 2016, 12:35 PM   #46 (permalink)
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http://www.bosch-motorsport.de/media...7739147pdf.pdf

above is what i had planned on using 3 pin? Although just noticed this

The coil P50 has no integrated transistor and requires an ECU with internal
ignition power stages, e.g. IGBT IRG4BC40S or BIP.
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Old 8th April 2016, 12:37 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Coil leads just means there is something else to fail. But if one insists lol
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Old 8th April 2016, 12:47 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FRRACER View Post
Coil leads just means there is something else to fail. But if one insists lol
Should be able to use the OEM coil boot with this!

But there is huge range as im sure you know , just need some help with picking one that will work from an electric point of view.

http://www.bosch-motorsport.de/en/de...v_1_605267.php
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Old 8th April 2016, 01:06 PM   #49 (permalink)
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I tried a number of aftermarket options and finally chose a twin box M&W CDI set-up with Mercury coils and Magnecore leads



Provides Spark energy150 millijoules.

Really made the engine run cleanly delivering such a high energy spark at high boost and high RPM.

Going to be putting it up for sale in the next couple of weeks.

Thanks

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Old 8th April 2016, 03:23 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Cool well might have sorted what coils i might use...

Just wanted to ask people this conversion to remove the igniter pack will not harm my ECU at all~?
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Old 8th April 2016, 05:21 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTSr32 View Post
Cool well might have sorted what coils i might use...

Just wanted to ask people this conversion to remove the igniter pack will not harm my ECU at all~?
No it wont harm the ECU, but fitting after market coils to a standard ECU is not the best idea, as each type of coil has a charge time and a lag. This cant be adjusted in the standard ECU. Most wanting to run different coils have after market ECU's
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Old 8th April 2016, 07:26 PM   #52 (permalink)
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We use the AEM coil wit good results. yes a plug lead can cause hassle but Magnecor 8mm leads work very well.

Running the coil out of the cam valley helps them a lot due to running a lot cooler.

The AEM coils require good direct 12 volt supply via relay you can remove the amplifier pack as well.

They make a huge spark , we seen these jump the spark through cheap plug leads rubber boots on the dyno with Jeff Ludgates Drag car when we was waiting for the Magnecor leads to arrive.

please dont hold the plug lead/coil when the car is running it will give you a might shock.

I own a S4 Audi had the coils changed twice under warranty. they always change all 8 as well.
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Old 8th April 2016, 10:42 PM   #53 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTSr32 View Post
Should be able to use the OEM coil boot with this!

But there is huge range as im sure you know , just need some help with picking one that will work from an electric point of view.

http://www.bosch-motorsport.de/en/de...v_1_605267.php
Already found my solution will be like Oem
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Old 14th April 2016, 09:43 AM   #54 (permalink)
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Lots of builds using VAG coils and going over 1000hp without problems.

The best solution is of course CDI but it's 5 times the price.
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Old 14th April 2016, 09:44 AM   #55 (permalink)
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For 150€, for 6 of these, there is no better solution in the universe.
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Old 14th April 2016, 10:02 PM   #56 (permalink)
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Standard coils can run 1000bhp, I want a big fat slow spark with a 1mm gap :-)
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Old 15th April 2016, 10:40 AM   #57 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UKPAISLEY View Post
Standard coils can run 1000bhp, I want a big fat slow spark with a 1mm gap :-)
Sure. With CDI
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Old 15th April 2016, 11:31 AM   #58 (permalink)
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Cdi is fast spark. Not slow!
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Old 15th April 2016, 05:33 PM   #59 (permalink)
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CDI is fast enough to spark several times before the piston reaches "top dead centre" at lower RPM.

The M&W CDI set-up I used would spark over a huge gap.

It was so powerful, absolute cleanliness was required on the outside of the plugs to ensure the spark did not arc down the outside of the plug.

A powerful spark over a large gap ensures the accurate timing of combustion at high RPM, allowing your engine to run cleanly at high boost.

Personally, having made a big investment in my engine, I wanted it to run cleanly and stay together without the risk of damaging the engine.
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Old 16th April 2016, 08:24 AM   #60 (permalink)
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Ignition systems can never be too good. Have seen many engines fail because of weak ignition systems..
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