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Old 3rd May 2016, 09:48 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Sorry double post, Just checked with wrecker he has all the glow plug relays and timer set aside
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Old 26th June 2016, 01:56 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Just to let people know i wasn't another one of those peoples who just have big dreams but don't give things a go,







RD28T from a Y60 Nissan Patrol. Doing the timing, water pump, seals, rocker cover intake and exhaust gaskets, (rebuilt or upgraded turbo from Steve Murch)
103,000ks from a side impact damaged truck

Then next up is get the money together for a 2WD-4WD sump adapter and pick up from RIPS,

Car i picked up super cheap.
Series 2 Factory Manual 4WD Turbo 220,000ks.
Has badly blown head gasket, Extremely tidy other wise and has had RS260 interior fitted
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Old 26th June 2016, 01:43 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Nice - I've seen a few of these go cheap. Bargain cars IMO
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Old 27th June 2016, 12:44 AM   #24 (permalink)
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if its a factory manual then it is an R S Four S.

they had that interior as standard. if it helps diff ratio on the s is 4.11 and the box has 33GTR ratios
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Old 27th June 2016, 08:33 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Ah ok thanks for that,
Guy said it had been swapped in which i thought was a little odd,
Yea the 4.11 ratio was the main reason i was after a manual and turbo car, The autos turbos are 4.08 which would have been just as good but i think i like the idea of being able to control when the gears change in the car rather than rely on the auto box to do it at the right time seeing as revs and torque will be much lower,
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Old 27th June 2016, 10:02 AM   #26 (permalink)
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The manual S is a much better car all rouind than the auto S2 . It isnt just the gearbox that is different It has better brakes, interior, lights and a much better rear end suspension set up with LSD .
It also came with HICAS . Im not sure but you may need a delete kit although this should not make much practicle difference to you with the level of power you are expecting

Will be an interesting project.
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Last edited by RSVFOUR; 27th June 2016 at 10:05 AM..
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Old 27th June 2016, 04:36 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Following this project with interest
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Old 27th June 2016, 06:14 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Yea the Hicas can stay where it is i don't see there being much need to delete it,
Just so you all know its going to be a slow one nothing is going to happen over night,

Im now trying to decided if i need to add a bypass valve to the block when i remove he factory oil cooler/warmer as i want to run a front mounted cooler and thermostat.
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Old 4th September 2016, 08:56 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Well things are slowly progressing with making this car slower,

Turbo returned from Steve Murch. Full rebuild on the little T25 also fitted a GT28RS 62 trim front compressor wheel which required machining of the front cover, Its all like brand new now, only better.

RD28T has had a new set of timing fitted and got the 4WD sump modified and fitted at last,
Had to fill in and move 4 gearbox bolt holes up by 8mm to allow for the thickness of the adapter plate, and add a oil drain fitting for the alternator vacuum pump, Remove a chunk of unneeded metal from the air con bracket.

Things are pretty tight for space in there as you will see from photos, Only real worry is turbo oil drain pipe its just sitting there for now till i clean up the gasket mounting surfaces and fit a new gasket, Going to look at fitting a non turbo intake manifold as i believe this will work perfectly with the factory intercooler piping, but will see how it goes when i dummy it together.


Notching of the block to allow for cap screws to bolt down from above,


Sump Adapter bolted on,


Most worrying clearance issue,


Better than new


Hard to tell but there is about 10mm clearance there, Easy to get on and off, Going to remove factory cooler/warmer and bolt a remote filter plate on there and run a thermostat and cooler off the top of the original filter try, (have a spare one ive stripped already to go).


Hoping i won't have any issues here but nothing a cut off wheel won't fix don't think i need that part of block anyway.
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Old 4th September 2016, 06:50 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Nice work - what's next on the to do list?


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Old 5th September 2016, 12:07 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Get some more clearance in a couple of places make sure i haven't over looked anything, Install the gen nissan thermostat and take engine off stand and fit flywheel.

I have a Nismo Pressure plate and clutch plate second hand but almost new would have done almost zero ks, But i don't know for 100% certainty it will work with a standard RB flywheel.

Once thats done its fix a couple broken wires then see if it will actually fit in the hole.
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Old 23rd January 2017, 04:20 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Stagea Diesel Conversion update if anyone is interested,

Engine is in and drives well done a 100km or so in it,car pulls well good low down torque (its no race car but remember its not designed to be its ment to be a daily and the speed limit is 100km/h so if it can do 140km/h thats fine and it can).

Still a long way off being finished yet but i have ticked a few issues off the list,
I now have a working Power steering system, (so much better to drive)
Working Hicas
Working Attessa 4WD system,
Working Tacho,
Glow Plug system (needs fine tuning)


Still have to hook up heater hoses waiting on a 5/8 - 3/4 adapter,

One large issure i have found is i used the RB flywheel and it is to light for a couple of reasons,

1: I struggle to hold 100km/h with light throttle speed wants to fall off
2: I get bad gearbox/engine harmoics at low revs decel and idle. This is a common fault when lightning flywheels in diesel BMW 6s and Supras most likely other engines to.

So i need to fit a diesel flywheel asap. I have that but its 6mm thicker, So have ordered a new pivot point so i can adjust that to hopefully make up the difference,

If anyone has a pull type gearbox lying round id love some photos of the fork and some measurements if possible. Just so i can work out the ratio and know how much to shorten my pivot by,
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Old 23rd January 2017, 10:26 PM   #33 (permalink)
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This probably doesnt help but just in case............. you can change push to pull (and vice versa) simply by changing the outer housing
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Old 23rd January 2017, 10:48 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Was hoping to avoid that if i could as that would involve trying to track down a bell housing or other bits and pieces,
And i also have a nice new nismo clutch plate and pressure plate in there that im happy with.

I think if i can figure out the ratio of the fork i should be able to shorten the pivot and that should allow it to work.
Well heres hoping anyway, A new pivot is 15mm. Just wanted to shorten it before pulling box out so car isn't stuck on a hoist or we have to push it round,
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Old 26th January 2017, 08:44 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Happy to stand corrected here, but the bell houses shouldn't need changing of it's the same as an R33/R32 GTR. However (I don't have pics to hand) the fork mounting points on the drivers side (externally) need redrilling and tapping to fit. Then it's just the clutch fork, release bearing, clutch (something I can't recall) that need swapping over. It's a fairly common change as push clutches are considered favourable conversions pending clutch choice.


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Old 26th January 2017, 09:59 PM   #36 (permalink)
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yes you can do that or the outer housing (if you have one )
from a push/pull will just swop over
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Old 26th January 2017, 10:06 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Yea ive been doing a bit of looking into that, I think the location of the pivot maybe slightly lower on the pull clutches but there is a blank to drill and tap for the push pivot to fit,
Also blanks to drill and tap on housing. For slave.

I have a nice new Nismo Clutch in there now, Thats whats putting me off if i needed a new clutch i would head down that path,
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