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Old 24th May 2017, 10:41 PM   #1 (permalink)
goinsleeper is becoming self-aware.
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R32 GTR Sleeper's Build

Okay, I decided to jump on the bandwagon. I'm starting this thread in the hopes it may help someone else, I may get some needed help and for a history reference for the car. I hope you guys enjoy.

So about a year ago I started shopping for a MK4 Supra. I quickly learned the prices were ridiculous or the sellers were. I previously had a 91 240sx that I swapped an SR20 into with plenty of goodies. After selling it, I thought I wouldn't be back in the Nissan game for some time. After looking at Supras, I decided to head back home to Nissan. I did some shopping around and decided to go the route of bidding on the Japanese auctions. After a few weeks and lots of research on how the prices moved, I ran into a car in the states that was almost exactly what I was looking for. It had the added benefit of already being titled, and, of course, I wouldn't have to wait months for it to get here. I suppose there's always that fear of it finally getting here just to find out it's a rust bucket. Anyway, I went to look at the car and ended up getting it. When I started shopping I was in the mindset of getting a car as close to stock as possible. That way I know everything that has been done and I know it's been done properly. That didn't happen. I had already charted out my first handful of mods and this car had them all. Here are some pics from the gent that had it before more (I haven't taken a ton of pictures of it and some of the good I have taken, I can't find which means they were probably on my old phone):







Here's a rundown of what had been done to the motor prior to getting it from the seller's words:
Block:
Blocked cleaned, deburred and inspected.
CP 86.5mm 8.5:1 pistons (.196" overbore)
Nitto H Beam Rods
Polished crank
Kings Rod bearings
Kings Main bearings
Timing tensioner stud and timing idler pulley stud replaced with ARP studs

Head:
Head Cleaned and Inspected
JUN 264 Cams
Greddy Adjustable Cam gears
Brian Crower Valve Springs
Resurfaced head
Valve seats resurfaced
Valves re shimmed for JUN cams
Exhaust ports are heavily ported
ARP Headstuds
Nitto 1.2mm DBS Headgasket
Nitto Intake / Exhaust gasket kit
Tomei Timing belt
Custom LS1 Coil pack swap with ignitor chip delete
NGK BCPR7EIX Iridium Spark Plugs (one step colder)
New OEM Nissan Tensioner
New OEM Nissan Idler pulley
New OEM Nissan Water pump (modified to fix the revised casting mistake)
New OEM Nissan Thermostat

Exhaust/Turbos and the rest:
Dual Ball Bearing GT2860R-5 Turbos
Stainless braided oil lines with .035" restrictors
New OEM Nissan oil return hoses
Ported and smoothed stock turbo manifolds
Tomei stainless outlet pipes
ARP turbo grade bolts for outlet pipes
3" to 3.5" equal length downpipe (the most amazing sound)
Deleted cat (modified to accept stock EGT sensor)
Dual 3" catback exhaust

Custom Twin Turbo pipe divider (increase power and response while reducing turbo shuffle)
All new silicone heater hoses and water hoses
All new silicone vacuum lines
Rebuilt front CV shafts with OEM Nissan boots and grease

BFGoodrich G-Force Sport Comp-2 Tires
HKS Hiper II Coilovers (Rears rebuilt by FEAL Suspension)
OEM Nissan Brake Pads
OEM Nissan Drilled rotors

AEM 0-150psi oil pressure gauge
AEM Boost control solenoid (installed for a Haltech unit)

Clutch and Flywheel:
Spec Stage 3+ clutch
Fidanza lightweight flywheel

6,085 miles on motor after rebuild



Hopefully the pics work. I may need to play around with all that to get it right.
The day I brought it home, it was immediately washed and waxed with the anticipation of a buff and polish first, but the sun was a little too strong for that. The next morning we went to a car show at a local university:



I wish I started taking pictures when I first started tooling on the car. I had every intention to, but got lost in the excitement of having a project again. I'll do better from this point forward.
All I've done to the car was attempt to replace the break pads, at which time I found several seized pistons. I pulled them off and rebuilt them. Before putting them back on, I cleaned, primed and painted them. Not very good pics but here's some reference. Keep in mind the car hadn't been driven for a little while as it didn't have any breaks.

Front


Rear


I also replaced the all the hard clutch lines. I now have a SS line running straight from master to slave cylinder. It made shifting so much easier. Pedal feels better too. I don't have a picture of it though it's not that dramatic anyway.

About a month ago, I ordered some things from RHDJapan. They apparently had some holiday at the beginning of the month and everything got halted. When everything got back on track, I ended up waiting an extra 2 weeks because of a grille clip. I went through the website and basically ordered every nut, bolt, screw or clip that's difficult to get stateside. I also ordered a new driver side wheel arch liner, passenger side vent and an HKS exhaust. It all came in today.



I've had a decat, new gaskets and hangers, new ramps and a new race jack waiting. No pics of those because that's just boring. Plan is to be under the car this weekend. I hope to sort a mild power steering leak along with something leaking near the rear diff (nothing serious, I'm sure). I'll actually take pics of the steps and post them. The exhaust on the car now is a super dragger style and is about 150 dBs at idle. It's almost unbearable.
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Old 24th May 2017, 10:50 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Great read, the pix don't work for me though

P
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Old 24th May 2017, 11:14 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phrozen_lad View Post
Great read, the pix don't work for me though

P
Thanks! My vernacular will get better as time goes on. This was slightly rushed, as was my grammar. Pics should be up and working now. Let me know if they're still not.
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Old 25th May 2017, 06:36 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Thanks! My vernacular will get better as time goes on. This was slightly rushed, as was my grammar. Pics should be up and working now. Let me know if they're still not.
All working now
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Old 25th May 2017, 06:46 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Looks very nice! Following ur steps in here
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Old 25th May 2017, 06:50 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Mätsi View Post
Looks very nice! Following ur steps in here
I'll try not to disappoint.
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Old 3rd June 2017, 03:44 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Super Huge, Massive Update!

Okay, so it's not really a huge update, but it's the first update and that's a big deal! Right? Anyone? No? Anyway, it's just a new exhaust. So, like some of you may know (of course no one does because I'm in the states and haven't really talked about it, but it sounds better this way) I had a super-dragger style exhaust on the car. No idea what the brand was, and I've had no luck figuring that part out. All you really need to know is it was loud. Loud really isn't a strong enough term for the noise this thing made. I would post a youtube video so you could hear it, but I don't want to be held liable for blown speakers. Even with the video on mute, I'm sure this thing could blow some speakers. It had to be well over 100 dB at idle; probably closer to 160! Well of course that's not accurate, but the take away here is it was really freaking loud.

Moving on. I know what you're thinking. You're thinking, "It's just an exhaust. What's all the drama about?". Well ladies and gents, I will tell you. The exhaust was on the car when it came from Japan. I always held the guys over there with such high regard. After seeing what they did, I realized there are budget people all over the world. I don't mean they were sticking to a budget, I mean they themselves were budget. Anyway, the exhaust would swing if you tapped it with your foot. I'm sure the exhaust manifold and tubs were loving that. It also scraped on just about anything that wasn't glass smooth. Here's your first look:



And the second look:



If your first though doesn't rhyme with "What the Duck?", then you and I have dramatically different tastes. And I hate to be the one to tell you, but yours is wrong.

So I began by jacking up the car, as most people do, and sliding some nifty 2-piece ramps under the tires. Pretty sweet setup though I would prefer an extra 2 inches of clearance from the ramps. I then got to work unbolting the downpipe from the turbo exhaust pipes. Seems like an odd thing to do right? Oh but you'll see why it was necessary. After two studs and two nuts were removed, love when nuts seize to studs (it just absolutely makes my day), the downpipe was disconnected. I then disconnected the middle hanger in which the top bolt had seized to the threads and snapped the bolt in half (more joy!). I was working alone so I put a jack under the middle area of the exhaust as I started knocking out the rear hangers in order to prevent everything from making a sudden tumble to the concrete. The hanger just before the mufflers was not even there. First possible reason the exhaust would swing so much. Popped off the rear two with little-to-no drama, slid the exhaust back a bit so the downpipe would clear the lot under it and put the exhaust on the ground. All that was left was to slide it out from under the car and take a picture of the beauty! Here you go!



I didn't tear this while removing it. It had been this way for who knows how long. Reason number two that the exhaust would swing so freely:



And for the reason I removed the downpipe. So most people would spend the $2 for a flange, gasket and some nuts and bolts. The the guy that owned this exotic (probably not so exotic when it was in Japan but we're not in Japan, are we?) beast decided it was better to weld the decat to the downpipe! Not just weld it on, but do a super awesome job! The level of sarcasm in that last sentence, I can't put into words. So that you, perhaps, feel my pain, here's a pick:



Some real craftsmanship there. I'm told it's a Greddy downpipe, but I don't see their name anywhere on it. It does appear to be pretty good quality though. I mean, apart from the crap exhaust welded to it. It was hot and, so, I called it a day.

Enter day two. So I got up and did a few things in the morning and then dove back into this massive upgrade. My reciprocating saw didn't want to cut through the steel of the exhaust because the battery is the suck. So I went and purchased an angle grinder. Never hurts to have another tool anyway. Came home and commenced to cutting. I'm not entirely sure why I did it this way. Perhaps it was the heat. Perhaps it was poor time management. Perhaps it was an accumulation of poor life decisions. Who could tell? Anyway, I made the first cut a bit further away from the flange of the downpipe than was necessary. First look (and the only look) at the first cut:



I thought long and hard about why I made the cut so far back, and then i did it better.



I then proceeded to grind it smooth. The picture doesn't show it, but it was decently smooth. The OCD side of me still wasn't happy, but it was really hot out and I was only getting angrier and angrier at the Japanese fellas who put me in this predicament. So I ended up with this:



Woohoo! Ready to slide back under the car and bolt some stuff back up, hassle-free! Hassle-free was rather optimistic. The downpipe went back on relatively smoothly with only the occasional something falling on my face. With it mounted, I decided to start at the rear and work my way forward with the exhaust. Remember I was doing this all by my lonesome. First was the muffler bit. New hangers and some lithium to help squeeze the hanger arms through these babies.



Then the mid section. This was slightly problematic going it alone. I used a jack as a helping hand, which really ended up being as much of a problem and drawing out four letter words as it was any help.



Lastly, the new decat. This is a rather sturdy piece that I purchased under the guise of it being for a 240sx (200sx to you guys?). Slick! I know. Just let me have this one, please. Anyway, the company that made it was formerly known as ISIS but changed their name to ISR. I can only assume one reason why. This part was very straightforward.



With that bad boy bolted to the downpipe, it was easy to connect everything together. In the end, I traded out an exhaust I couldn't give away for an HKS Silent Hi Power.





I'm just taking a guess, but I'm pretty sure it's supposed to line up with the arch in the bumper. It doesn't do that. This doesn't give me the good kind of butterflies in my tummy. Well at least people won't think I'm at 7k RPM at idle, right?

Just when you thought the news couldn't get any better. I went to start the car after finishing the work. I wanted to bask in the wonderful low-tone idle. It was not to be. I hadn't driven the car in a few weeks, mainly because I was so tired of the exhaust. When I turned the key, the battery didn't have enough juice to turn the motor over. Sad times. I pulled the battery out and charged it over night. The next day I tossed it back in and prepared myself for the magic. Again, it was not to be. The motor is turning over but won't crank. I'm going to check fuses when I get a chance (if I get a chance) this weekend, but it's my fiance's birthday weekend so it's not looking good. Neither is the weather for that matter. Anyway, I've suspected I have some weak earthing going on under the bonnet. I'll have some good wire and connectors coming in to make a five point (definitely didn't use a random number just now) earthing kit that should be well hidden. Hopefully I'll have some optimistic updates, albeit small ones, in the near future. If you've made it this far into the post, thanks for reading!
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Old 6th June 2017, 10:23 PM   #8 (permalink)
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She lives

Small update. I checked all of my fuses in the cabin and under the bonnet, and they all looked good. I decided to look under the bonnet for anything that appeared to be a loose earth. This is always a fun, clean job. Anyway, the previous owner changed over to custom coils. He also had a oil pressure gauge in the cabin, but it doesn't stay hooked up. He didn't care for the look of gauges inside the car, and I concur. There was an earth connected directly to the battery that I assumed was being used for the gauge. Well we all know what happens when you assume. I took a closer look and thought the wire was pretty beefy for a gauge earth. I followed the wire back to the same area as the stock earth for the igniter chip. So, without hesitation, I hooked it back to the battery, and she fired right up! I'll do a cleaner job with that earth soon, but until then she's sounding so good. Granted, all you hear are the tubs.

Next update will hopefully be a proEFI and the switch to e85. Just need to decide on power versus response. Any suggestions?
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Old 12th July 2017, 12:01 AM   #9 (permalink)
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So, a bit of an update. Nothing too serious, but I'm pleased. I thought I had some wiring gremlins, at least the kind keeping my earths from working. I decided to make a earthing harness. I bought 20 feet of 8 gauge 805 strand oxygen-free copper wire. I'm not entirely sure it's the best thing to use for earthing wire, but people in the car audio world love it for just that reason. I like it because it's bendy . You may also notice that it's black. That's because earth wires are black. They're not yellow or green or purple. They're especially not red. That's the color of power wires. Sheesh. Not to offend anyone who loves different color wires under the bonnet, but I'm definitely not in that club. I also picked up an OEM "Nissan" emblem for the boot as mine was gone, and I've had several people ask me what the car was. Quick pick:



The first thing to do is ready the work station. You might think it's just a dinner tray, but... Yeah, it's just a dinner tray.



A couple looks at the work:
Plastic crap covering terminal removed and wire crimped:


Then the heat shrink:


Two 8 gauge strands in a 4 gauge terminal. Clean, no?


And, lastly, the full harness. I laid it out how it will sit in the engine bay, only in 2D fashion:


It went in well, but it was ridiculously hot outside. I did my best to tuck it out of the way. Mounting points were:
2 to the rear of the cam cover
-one to the ABS earth on the passenger side strut tower
-one to the intake plenum which then split to the earths on the coolant inlet
2 (joined) on the driver side strut tower
-one met with the earth from the cam cover, at the plenum
-one went to the battery earth under/near the battery tray
1 on the alternator earth, which then connected to the motor mount(block side)
1 from the CAS to an area behind the passenger headlight

Picks of the final job:





I ran across some dirty areas that I cleaned up as well. Just want to make sure everything is grounded appropriately. Also, the earthing wire on the back of the ABS was very rusty. I cleaned up the wire and the stud, added a bit of oil and put a new nut and washer on it.


I've had the car for about 9 months now, and it didn't have horns on for the entirety of that. It's not that I use my horns very often, but I decided I really wanted some in the event I needed them. Especially since I almost got hit a few days ago heading home from work. Luckily I was in my daily driver and had horns at the ready. Anyway, I picked these up:


I was a little worried about the fit, but it was no problem. I made some short earthing wires and tossed them in.


And here they are mounted behind the grill.


They just barely clear the grill. I'm probably going to make some hardier brackets soon. The material they come on is extremely flimsy, but it will probably do the job. They sound so European. I almost don't like it. But it will definitely get the attention of someone coming into my lane.

I'm not a big Nismo fan boy. That being said, I definitely do not hate them. I just don't care for some of the prices I'm seeing. Then I saw this for less than $50.

I thought I had a bit of a slave cylinder issue, so I tossed it on the car. The pedal is a bit lighter, but first gear can still be bothersome. I'm leaning on the issue being fork or throw-out bearing related. Sigh. Anyway, I didn't take a picture of it mounted because that's boring.


The only other thing I got around to doing was attempting to fix my code 18 from the ATTESA box. I checked everything and bled everything. No dice. I had a small leak coming from the bottom of the ATTESA reservoir, so I decided to pull it out. The reservoir seemed fine, as did the hoses. I have no idea what was causing it to leak, but it wasn't fun (or clean) to get out, so I replaced the feed hose (on the bottom of the reservoir) because that's what was leaking. For anyone stateside, a quick trip to the auto parts store got me this:

I was rather surprised they had something so close. It was really dry on the inside which made putting it on the reservoir (while it was outside the car) an absolutely joy. I added a dab of oil to the inside of the hose to get it on a little easier. What I didn't contemplate was how difficult it was to put on the line in the boot. It was hot, and I was frustrated, and I'm not even going to put you guys through the how's and why's of what went down that afternoon. I'm still toying with the reservoir to get the fluid levels where they need to be



All this busy-work done and it was time to crank the car up. She's been sitting for a few weeks (weather has been terribly inconsistent lately) and the battery was a bit low. The motor did turn over and finally cranked up after a few seconds. At that point, sadness hit me. It sounded like the car was missing and wouldn't idle above 500 RPM. I was not very happy. I figured I would go take a look at what I may have messed up the next day. The following morning, I pulled the batter out and put it on the charger before heading to work. Today, after getting home, I put the battery back in to see if the issue remained. I expected I was going to have to move some earths or sort some other BS out. Nope! She fired right up, and she's idling better than ever. and, And, AND... My AWD is working! That bugger of code 18 has been constant for a few months now. I'm not entirely sure what fixed it, but I know Tyndago had an issue he couldn't resolve. It turned out to be the earth on the alternator, hence why I decided to add that earth to the harness. I'm baffled, but very very happy. I didn't drive it much after cranking it. I'll take it to work tomorrow and hopefully the AWD will still tip top.
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Old 12th July 2017, 10:55 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I had the code 18 a few years ago, only seemed to do it after turning the car back on when hot..
but after spending an afternoon cleaning every earth & fitting a earth kit, My Code 18 hasn't come back!
So we must of touched something relating to that.
Love your thread btw


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Old 17th July 2017, 01:32 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brett21 View Post
I had the code 18 a few years ago, only seemed to do it after turning the car back on when hot..
but after spending an afternoon cleaning every earth & fitting a earth kit, My Code 18 hasn't come back!
So we must of touched something relating to that.
Love your thread btw


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks Brett. My code 18 was originally popping up when the car was cold. After it warmed up, it seemed to go away. It came back the day after it went away and is persisting. Sad times. I'm going to see if I can sort it out soon, but I'm not entirely sure what I'm going to be looking into. I'll keep the thread updated as I do.

I'm also going to work on the size of the pics. I backed them down a touch on the last update. I'm attempting to keep the page from taking a while to load, but I don't want low resolution pics either. Hopefully I'll find a good middle ground soon.
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Old 11th August 2017, 04:19 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Following this thread ....
You definatly have a sence of humor.
You should bring her to Dallas in October for the Skyline Nationals
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Old 11th August 2017, 04:22 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Following this thread ....
You definatly have a sence of humor.
You should bring her to Dallas in October for the Skyline Nationals
I really want to, but I have a wedding in October. I would try to get out of it, but it's my wedding, so probably not. I may also be on travel for work later in the month.
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Old 11th August 2017, 09:22 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Well then....a congratulations in on hand

Congratulations sir
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Old 13th August 2017, 04:20 PM   #15 (permalink)
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suscribed!
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Old 22nd August 2017, 08:04 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brett21 View Post
I had the code 18 a few years ago, only seemed to do it after turning the car back on when hot..
but after spending an afternoon cleaning every earth & fitting a earth kit, My Code 18 hasn't come back!
So we must of touched something relating to that.
Love your thread btw
Partially to keep you informed and partially for the thread, my AWD has been working for about 2 weeks, without a single issue. The weather has been very humid lately, with lots of rain. I suspected it was an earthing issue in the past because the AWD seemed to have no problem after a rain or on a foggy morning. As the weather starts to dry up, I'll see if the issue comes back.
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Old 22nd August 2017, 08:10 PM   #17 (permalink)
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HUMID.....in Alabama ?
Never ;-)
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Old 22nd August 2017, 08:41 PM   #18 (permalink)
brett21 is My car keeps stealing my money
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Originally Posted by goinsleeper View Post
Partially to keep you informed and partially for the thread, my AWD has been working for about 2 weeks, without a single issue. The weather has been very humid lately, with lots of rain. I suspected it was an earthing issue in the past because the AWD seemed to have no problem after a rain or on a foggy morning. As the weather starts to dry up, I'll see if the issue comes back.


Glad it's ok for you, Mine was definitely a earthing fault. These cars are getting old, so spending a day cleaning earths was well needed for mine. You wouldn't think my car was 27 years old looking underneath though.
Have gone through your earths?

Cheers Brett
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Old 22nd August 2017, 08:46 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by brett21 View Post
Glad it's ok for you, Mine was definitely a earthing fault. These cars are getting old, so spending a day cleaning earths was well needed for mine. You wouldn't think my car was 27 years old looking underneath though.
Have gone through your earths?

Cheers Brett
Pretty much every one I could find. I should be in a house in the next few months with a detached garage and a lift. At that point, I'll start really taking things apart. I'll probably end up replacing grommets and bushings and everything else rubber, along with strengthening the chassis, before heading toward my power goals. But first I'll be replacing most of the harness. Wire degrades with time and current carrying. It's time to get all that copper back up to spec. Wiring Specialties is our friend .
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Old 7th November 2017, 02:04 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Hey there goinsleeper. Someone told me I should look you up on here seeing as we are both from Alabama. I live in the Birmingham area and would love to meet up with you sometime. I would really like to see how those -5's feel. I currently have my car down because of a blown headgasket and am trying to decide what turbos I want to put back on the thing. Anyway awesome build man keep up the awesome work. If you want to look me up on facebook my name is Brad Finley and I have a pic of me wearing a tux and my KG1 GT-R is my background photo.
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