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Old 14th November 2017, 08:10 PM   #21 (permalink)
Mark SlideSquad is Location: Thousand Oaks, California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ATCO View Post
You need some NISMO front splitter vents, looks much better.

Have you checked if turbo's running ceramic or steel cores? If steel take the brass fitting out of the small hose with yellow band that leads to boost controller.
I always considered doing the Nismo vents, still not sure though. The motor is factory stock with ceramic turbos. I don't plan on going past 0.9 bar at the risk of losing a ceramic wheel.
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Old 14th November 2017, 08:45 PM   #22 (permalink)
tarmac terror is Wondering why it says 'New User' below.....*confused*
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You need some NISMO front splitter vents
And what are these.....??? Can't say I've heard of such a thing.....


TT
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R32GTR- Stage 6; Frank Baxter exhaust with K-pipe; Rick Astley cams; Dave Gahan electrics; Bjorn Ulvaeus race prep; Howard Jones gearbox upgrade; Ray Charles body mods and styling. Mapped by Glenn Medeiros.------> Beat that R35 owners with dodgy parts list sigs :)
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Old 14th November 2017, 09:14 PM   #23 (permalink)
Mark SlideSquad is Location: Thousand Oaks, California
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Went to the California DMV today and finalized the paperwork and got registration and plates! Title will be mailed out shortly. I went to the Thousand Oaks location, they have never really dealt with anything like my situation before. They said they weren't trained on the 25 year old rule and what not. They were looking for a Federal approval sticker to show it conforms to DOT. I was able to look up the regulations online and show it to them and they signed off on the VIN verification. I was sweating bullets there for a bit! Words can't express the sense of relief I had when I walked out with my plates and registration. It's always best to be prepared and have all your documents in order if you go to the DMV for this process and be well versed on the regulations and laws. It's ridiculous that most DMV stations don't know this information.

Lady doing the VIN verification... she was confused to say the least.


I photoshopped out two letters on the plate, it's not custom, haha.


Last night I calibrated my HICAS steering position. I put on a new Momo wheel and HKB HICAS hub when I got the car. It would throw the infamous HICAS light after 10 or 15 mins of higher speed (highway) driving. I downloaded/bought the Nissan Datascan software and bought an ODB1 reader with USB. The software is pretty simple to use and is well worth the $41. It displays the current status of pretty much all engine sensors, RPM, Speed, coolant temp, battery voltage, o2 sensor, TPS volts, ignition timing, etc etc. It also has a HICAS function where you can see the angle of the sensor in relation to the wheels. If your light comes on after 10 or 15 mins and you have an aftermarket steering wheel, most likely it is from the steering angle sensor not being centered properly. There have been some write ups on the net about it, so I won't go too much into detail about it.


I will explain my situation I encountered though. The backside of the HKB hub adapter has a removable plastic piece with two slots that lets you "clock" your steering angle position depending on what year your car is. From 1989-91, the clocking position is different (I believe it's around a 2pm and 8pm position for the slots) on the steering angle sensor on the '92-'94 R32, which is 6 and 12 o'clock position. One of the slots is for clearance on the plug for the horn (12 o'clock position) and the other slot is for the actual position sensor. Now here was the thing, I "clocked" the sensor and the slotted plastic piece on the hub so that the software said it was at zero degrees on steering angle. Perfect. Then I would turn the steering wheel to full lock, bring it back to center, and the steering angle sensor was now showing 8 degrees or even up to 14 degrees off-center in some cases. Hmm. Was it a bad steering angle sensor perhaps? Then I thought about it, it only happened when turning the wheel one direction and then back another, creating a "backlash" in the slotted area where the sensor fits at the 6 o'clock position. I pulled the hub off, and sure enough, there was WAY too much slop in the slot from HKB, which created the margin of error when it would contact the square-shaped sensor. It's got to fit together nice and snug like a puzzle piece to be accurate. A simple fix. I wrapped electrical tape a few times around the square-shaped block (angle sensor) and the slot on the HKB hub now fit nice and snug. I cycled the steering wheel back and forth a few times to see if it would change, and no problem, still showed zero degrees when centered. Also, the slotted plastic piece just snaps into place, it doesn't take much to move it, or for it to fall off all together. I decided to epoxy the slotted plastic piece in place, once I marked where the right location was with a marker at zero degrees. On the drive today there was no HICAS light anymore, problem fixed!

You can see where I epoxied it in place on the edges. The slotted square at the bottom is what interfaces with the HICAS steering angle sensor, which was far too sloppy of a fit.
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Old 20th November 2017, 05:15 PM   #24 (permalink)
Mark SlideSquad is Location: Thousand Oaks, California
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Well, over the weekend I figured I would install my new Project Mu HC+800 pads in my car. I've run them on my cars in the past and they are a good compromise between street, canyon and light track duty. Figured it would be about an hour to put front and rear pads in as usual, then I see this...


ARGH. It looks like the front right inner CV axle boot JUST split that day, as the grease was very fresh and clean. Well, I guess I knew what I was going to do over the weekend Luckily I already had a brand new Nissan right inner boot replacement kit in my box of spares I keep. No worries. I got to work and pulled the shaft out...




Popped off the joint and cleaned everything up, installed the new boot. Pretty straight forward.


Ice cream, anyone?




re-installed the axle and tightened down the clamp on the boot. Contrary to belief, you DO NOT have to remove the axle flange that comes out of the differential. It's much easier and can save you hours of work. It can be a tight squeeze getting the clamp back on the CV joint, but not too bad.


Now, what I originally intended to do, installed the new Project Mu HC+800 pads.




And for those who are curious to see the CARB compliant pre-cats and main cats, here you go. You can see the pre-cats on each pipe of the downpipe. The pre-cats are actually rather small in diameter compared to the older cars that were done back in the day for Motorex. Pretty sure the welder is legally blind...


The two main cats are siamesed together. Looks like it belongs on some farm equipment :wink:


Back on the ground and ready to roll.


Once it was back on the road, decided to go on a canyon drive in the Angeles Crest Mountains, some excellent driving roads up there. There was a lot of sport bike traffic though and also 17 year old kids driving their parents BMW way too fast with zero canyon experience :headshake:





All-in-all a fun day. Coming up soon I will be doing a new timing belt/bearings, N1 water pump, Koyo aluminum radiator, and Greddy 13 row oil cooler install. Driving the canyons definitely got her a little warm.
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Old 29th November 2017, 06:23 PM   #25 (permalink)
Mark SlideSquad is Location: Thousand Oaks, California
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Picked up some Nismo LM GT2 wheels that I couldn't pass up. They are 17x9 in +23, which is a good size. I am a huge an of period correctness, and these are dated 1995, perfect! I've wanted a set of these since 1995 when I first saw a set. Too bad they don't have the center caps, but hopefully I can find a set somewhere. They have been sitting for many years and need restoring. They are in pretty good shape though with no cracks or bends. They have minor rash and need a good lip polish and I am removing the centers to bead blast them and paint. I ordered some replacement Nismo decals as well. They will hopefully be done within a few weeks with new 255/40 rubber. Can't wait to get them on!







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Old 30th November 2017, 12:40 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Looking good.

Shame all those cats look quite restrictive though. :-(
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Old 30th November 2017, 01:31 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Nice i have a set of plastic centre caps for sale next month for the GT1/2 but just need to grab it at the storage!!
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Old 30th November 2017, 07:33 PM   #28 (permalink)
Mark SlideSquad is Location: Thousand Oaks, California
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Nice i have a set of plastic centre caps for sale next month for the GT1/2 but just need to grab it at the storage!!
Ok, please messsage me when know how much you're thinking of selling them for and when you get them from storage! Thanks!
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Old 4th January 2018, 07:37 PM   #29 (permalink)
Mark SlideSquad is Location: Thousand Oaks, California
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Happy New Year everyone! I had some time off during Christmas and New Years, so I figured I would do some maintenance things on the R32. It was the original timing belt still (car has 83000 km's) and was due for a change soon. I was afraid to really get on the throttle much because it is the original 25 year old timing belt and wasn't sure what kind of shape it was in. Ordered a new factory Nissan Bandoh timing belt, idler and tensioner bearings, standard OEM water pump, and uprated Koyo alloy radiator. I want to say the biggest pain was getting the crank pulley off! I put the car in 4th gear and handbrake on and the wheels were still trying to turn when attempting to loosen the 30mm crank pulley bolt. I put the handbrake on as hard as I could, and finally with a 4 foot long breaker bar, it came loose! After that it was straight forward with removing the timing belt and water pump.


Anyhow, got everything swapped over. Took my time doing everything because I was inspecting and cleaning everything as I went along. The new water pump I installed is the factory OEM Nissan pump.


I knew the N1 pump had the slotted hole up top, but didn't realize the OEM did as well. I was a little uneasy about this. I installed it anyway and hoped all would be good. I finished everything up on Christmas Eve. When I was at the last step adding the antifreeze, all of a sudden I could hear it pissing onto the ground. ARGH!!! It was leaking coolant from the slotted hole area on the new water pump. I have to say, I haven't been that angry and frustrated in a long time. I wanted to choke the Nissan beancounter that made the decision to slot the holes on all the replacement water pumps so that they fit the N1 block and standard. I mean, who is going to put a standard pump on an N1 block?? Maybe an extremely small percentage?! They should just sell a different part number for the N1 block with the correctly placed hole, not a slotted hole that can leak! I felt defeated and decided to let the car sit a couple days before starting over again. I wasn't in the mood to take everything off again, including the timing belt just to fix the water leak. After a few days I went back to it with renewed focus and had calmed down since then, haha. I removed/disassembled everything in about 1 hour 30 mins, which was must faster than the first time around, since I had a feel for it by now.
You can see where I removed the bolt where the leak was coming from the slotted area.


Took the pump off and could see where it was leaking at the slot.


People say on the internet to either fill the slot with JB weld epoxy, weld up the slot and machine a new hole and flatten it, or use a big washer under the bolt with tons of silicone sealer (sounds really dodgy). Welding the slot and remachining sounded like the best approach, but by far the most time consuming and difficult. Not having a welder that can weld aluminum, I opted for plan B. Put the original water pump back in. Some will say that's not a good idea, but I didn't want the car to be down for a few more days or longer. I inspected it and the bearings seem in really good shape still. I put it all back together and there were no leaks. With only 83 kms on it (about 51k miles) it will have life for another few years at this rate. In the meantime, I will take my time welding and machining the new water pump and will keep it on the shelf for when the old pump finally does go to water pump heaven down the road. Anyhow, after bleeding the air out of the system and test driving it, it's all good now.


Enjoyed a nice New Years Day drive through the Malibu canyons and Pacific Coast Highway to the beach with my gf. She really enjoys the car a lot, which adds to the fun.


Next on the list is to get my Nismo LMGT2 wheels restored and on the car, along with installing my Greddy oil cooler and getting my bumpers repainted.
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Old 1st June 2019, 08:14 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Hey Mark, I was trying to message you for some GT-R assistance but I keep getting an error msg. I’m also in Cali (SD). What part of Cali are you located?
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