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Old 16th April 2006, 04:55 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Engine Removal Guide BNR32

BNR32 RB26 DETT Engine Removal (Total time 6Hrs between two of us*)

(*The gearbox was already removed, approx two hours was wasted trying to remove o/s drive shaft which this guide will hopefully save others.)

Jack up car and put on axle stands. We put some wing covers over the front wings to protect the paintwork and some baby bed mats under the car to make clean up easier and anticipation of splashes from all the fluids that would be drained shortly. We then removed the battery completely from the car, it helps access and visibility later on.



Next up we removed the engine cover/drip tray and drained the water radiator, from the white drain tap on the bottom n/s of the rad. We placed a large container underneath it and allowed it to drain. We then removed the rad cap and it really poured out, I would recommend doing this towards the end. (Alternatively it may have been better had we done this first and then only unscrew the rad tap a small way out.)




While this drained we removed the bonnet to clear the way for the engine removal. We kept it on the bonnet stay and then undid the two bolts on each side, between the two of us so we could take the weight as we did it and then lifted it off the stay. Its extremely light.



With the radiator drained we set about removing the top and bottom radiator hoses. Please note the pick in the below picture, this was an invaluable tool throughout for removing old hoses/ pipes, electrical connectors etc. Simply insert it and follow the seal around breaking the seal.



Do the same with the lower hose, but make sure you have a container underneath to catch the water which comes out of this.



With the radiator now drained and pipes detached, undo the bolts on the brackets that retain the radiator at the front slam panel. Next up, remove the 4 nuts that hold the fan on to the water pump pulley. These have washers so use a magnet pickup to catch the nut and washer as you undo these. With these undone the radiator simply lifts up and out along with the fan which needs to be pulled forward into the shroud so that it can all lift out together. There is a sensor attached to the radiator at the bottom left (looking at it from the front/green plug in pic below) as you lift it out and this must be disconnected. Take care not to forget this as you will pull the wires out. (Also in the above picture make a mental note about the power steering sensor harness which is just below the alternator. This needs to be disconnected before the engine comes out or this too will pull the wires out, now might be a good time to do this.



While on the messy stuff, we also drained the front diff now. Just put a container underneath and undo the bottom bolt. (Ignore the fact that we’ve undone the outer bolts on the diff casing, more on that below- you wont need to undo these).




Next we move on to the intake side and remove the Induction kit, Air Flow Meters and intercooler inlet pipe. We put a glove over the intercooler entry pipe to prevent any muck from falling in.



Next up we removed the dump valve pipework. Spot the difference from the pic above.



Moving on, we disconnect the pipes off the power steering pump and then the air con condenser. Power steering fluid is horrible and stinks and makes a hell of a mess, so we have the container under the car and plenty of blue roll to hand to catch the initial fluid until we were able to position the pipes over the container. Note the black rubber pipe going to the power steering pump from the reservoir, we undid the jubilee clip on this too but didn’t drain it until the engine was already hafway out of the car opn the engine crane as it was easier then.



With this done and the power steering fluid draining into the container, we undid the air con pipes, this meant losing the gas so we walked out of the garage and gave it some time to disperse out of the atmosphere. It wasn’t too bad but it does come out under pressure. We undid the bolt but not fully so it escaped slower. The air con compressor is located under the power steering pump. There are two bolts on this, we just undid the one for now which is the one without the nut on it, the other one, a bolt, we undid as the engine came out as it was easier to access.



Next we undid the intercooler pipe that goes to the inlet plenum.



After this you need to be careful, it’s not particularly difficult but you need to be meticulous that you’ve removed all bits of loom that go to the engine. A good place to start is the battery side. Here you’ll find there are earths etc than run from the engine block to the battery, these all need to be undone from the body and will lift off with the engine. There are also boost pipes etc to remove from the boost solenoid, make sure you remember which ones go where, mark them f you have to. You also need to release the fuel lines, two of them, the high pressure line will leak some fuel so a small container is useful and some blue roll. We also undid the fuel cap at this point to release any pressure. You can see the fuel lines in the picture below just above the oil filter.



The next loom we undid is the injector harness, this loom has two temp connectors at the front of the plenum, one sensor is in the plenum and one in the inlet manifold. Undo these plugs then undo the six injectors. You’ll need to remove the three hex bolts on the injector loom cover too. The same loom then has two or three plugs at the rear, throttle position sensor and such which is up by the throttle cable and the plug out of the back of the ignition amplifier on the spark plug cover as well as the earth strap that goes to this. This whole loom then pulls out of the way, there are also two plugs to remove from the other side which are the two Lambda sensors on the turbos.



With this out of the way, there are a two pipes that need disconnecting around the rear of the plenum, brake booster pipe and a vacuum pipe that goes to the canister to the left of the brake booster and the throttle cable needs to be disconnected too.

We realized at this point that there wasn’t much space between the rear of the engine and the bulkhead and it was pretty tight to work in. Without the gearbox in and hence supported by the gearbox cross brace, the engine was dipping back. We undid the two engine mount bolts, one on each side on the subframe pics below (holes through the subframe where you reach in with a 14mm socket and bar and remove) and then put a jack under the rear of the engine. The picture above is taken after jacking the engine up a bit.






With the nuts removed from the subframe side of the engine mounting brackets, we jacked the engine up from underneath as there wasn’t much clearance between the rear of the engine and the bulkhead.



Next up was removal of the front drive shafts. The passenger side is easy, just 6 nuts and bolts. These were extremely tight but a ring spanner and ratchet spanner had it sorted. I actually had to push on the ring spanner with my foot to get enough force behind it to crack the nuts off they were that tight.

The drivers side took us ages. First you have to remove the top bolt on the upper wishbone link arm and slide it out so that the front wheel assembly has some give, basically its enough to allow the shaft to come out. I had previously removed this driveshaft from an engine before but this was on a subframe not in the car. There isn’t much access when its in the car and I couldn’t get the driveshaft out, the angle/leverage was wrong. I then tried to undo the front diff cover as many have removed this by driving a wedge between the front diff/driveshaft to pop it out. Unfortunately, the diff cover bolts were so tight that the very top one couldn’t be undone with a ring spanner and there wasn’t enough space to get a socket on it. Finally after almost giving up for the day, we used 2 lever bars, one on each end of the driveshaft and it popped out very easily. There are about three grooves on the front driveshaft, I placed a bar on each side (pic below shows one side but the bar is in the same place on the opposite side), on the groove closest to the wheel as in pic, and levered the shaft out on both sides by levering simultaneously against the subframe (not the anti roll bar even though it looks a little like that in the pic below). The shaft popped out with ease. With this released we pulled back on the hub/brake disc enough to allow us to fully withdraw the driveshaft hub from the diff so that it was clear of the engine for when we craned it up.



Finally we undid the two water pipes at the rear of the engine that go into the passenger compartment. One of these (the lower one) will leak out a fair bit of water when you remove it from the engine so make sure you have a litre or so sized container (Chinese takeaway containers are perfect). Note this pic was taken after the engine was out so it could be seen clearer.



After this it remains to go around the whole engine ensuring all connectors/pipes etc that go from the body to the engine are removed. Check this very carefully now and then again as you crane the engine up, do it slowly and keep checking everything is clear. At this point we also put the rear wheels on the deck and the front of the car on a lower set of axle stands to bring the height down for engine removal.

We then used the two Nissan jacking points (I had to order the engine lifting brackets, there are two of them one on the top front left of the engine and rear right). We attached the engine crane and lifted the engine clear out of the car. Job done.



I hope this helps, this is just a guide, others may have better methods please feel free to add if you have, this is just how we did it, I thought I'd take some pics as we went along, hopefully it'll be of use to others.

Big thanks to Simon (SiDet) for his help.

Cheers
Nito
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Old 16th April 2006, 04:58 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Good guide, even though i lost interest halfway through!!! Not your fault

couple of things. Only the first pic works, and you might want to erase the number plates
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Old 16th April 2006, 05:13 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Having issues with my server at the moment, just trying to resize!
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Old 16th April 2006, 05:18 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Sorted, happy reading
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Old 16th April 2006, 06:29 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thats a good guide, brings back memories and makes good reading, brings back a mental picture as it progresses. Just one question where did you purchase the lifting hooks from and do you hav a pic of them during lifting?
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Old 16th April 2006, 07:26 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Saves a mess if you unbolt the Power steering pump from the engine without removing the pipes and cable tie it out of the way.

If you do not have the lifting brackets you can move the alternator bracket one bolt hole so it points to the the floor and use that. I use the back turbo elbow on the other side.
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Old 16th April 2006, 07:33 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Hi Tabz,

I don't have any lifting pics unfortunately as the camera card was full up. But I found a pic of the Nur engine on the crane, although you can only see one of the mounts in the pic.



Incidentally this is the engine which'll be going back in

Paul,

I read that in one of Combats posts, I did think about it but it seemed easier to unbolt the pipes than struggle trying to remove them off the brackets in situ. This way meant that they'd come out with the engine so I could take them off and clean them properly and it also meant that it would all go back on the new engine correctly torqued etc. The grime on the ancillaries was incredible. We took the engine out on Friday, spent all day Saturday cleaning and upto lunchtime today removing 16 yrs worth of grime!!

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Old 16th April 2006, 07:34 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Don't bother removing pipes from AC and PS pumps, just unbolt the pumps from the engine and leave them in the engine bay.

oops, beaten to it! But it is the easiest way.
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Old 16th April 2006, 07:47 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I find the heater pipes hard to get to so now I unclip them from the bulk head and remove them both at the heater matrix.
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Old 16th April 2006, 08:32 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I found the heater pipes easy. The top one comes apart at the bulkhead just to the left of the ignition amp and the other one comes off the back of the engine under the rear of the plenum, easy to get to when the back of the engine is jacked up to move it off the bulkhead.

Cord, I wanted the pumps etc out anyway for cleaning, but it would be less messy as you say to unbolt them off the engine, but is it really easier than undoing two pipes? Guess like everything, easy when you know how. Although we were well prepared for the mess with a nice big collector. Put the whole lot in one container and took it to the local waste!

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Old 16th April 2006, 09:42 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Easier as in when you put it back together you just bolt it up and off you go, no need to re-fill or re-gas. And the motor does come past them ok.

Do the heater pipes before you remove the box, plenty of access then.

Top tip for unbolting the 6 bolts in the drive shaft, put a ring spanner over the end, then lightly spin the wheel. Momnetum of the wheel cracks them off super easy once the spanner stops against the sub frame. Sounds very YEEE-HAW until you've seen it done.

Think i'll stop here, am on the roads to doing myself out of a job!
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Old 16th April 2006, 10:22 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cord

Do the heater pipes before you remove the box, plenty of access then
I have to remove my engine with the gearbox in as I dont have anyone to help and work on axle stands. I have had it out a couple of times for clutch work but its a pain.

Oh see what you mean, drop the back end down and use the weight of the gearbox too pull the engine back.
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Old 16th April 2006, 10:49 PM   #13 (permalink)
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that o/s drive shaft always seems to leave the circlip in the Diff
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Old 16th April 2006, 11:15 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Its a external clip thats by design
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Old 17th April 2006, 06:52 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Cord,

lol, Good tip, Nice one!


Paul,

When the gearbox is in, the gearbox cross brace keeps the engine far enough away from the bulkhead. When you remove the gearbox or even just the cross brace the engine dips back so that the rear of it nearly touches the bulkhead making much of it inaccesible, jacking the rear of the engine as in one of the pics above brings it away from the bulkhead again if that makes sense. Although if you remove the engine with the box in place, are you removing the crossbrace to get the angle?

Andy,

How do you mean leaves the circlip in the diff, I thought that was the point in that the driveshaft can be pushed back in or removed at will without having to open the diff case?
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Old 17th April 2006, 10:20 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Although if you remove the engine with the box in place, are you removing the crossbrace to get the angle?
No I keep the gearbox mount on

With the engine mounts off there is a good clearance between the gearbox and bulk head.With the heater hoses out of the way the top bell housing and starter bolts can be undone from under the bonnet.
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Old 17th April 2006, 11:08 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Andy,

How do you mean leaves the circlip in the diff, I thought that was the point in that the driveshaft can be pushed back in or removed at will without having to open the diff case?
I didn't realise till just thats what they were suposed to do, on other cars they come out with the shaft and it can be a [email protected] if they dont
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Old 17th April 2006, 11:17 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Another superb engine removal guide, well done Nito .

I'm trying to soak up all this info in time for taking my engine out for its bottom end rebuild.

Nito, did you have much of a problem getting the gearbox off? How did you get to the top bell housing bolts?

Great tips from the other posters too. Especially like Cords tips for not having to drain the power steering or air-con . It's nice to see someone who works on these motors for a living chipping in to help us diy mechanics . Tell Rod it's good for PR lol !

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Old 17th April 2006, 08:09 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Cheers Jonny,

I've done the box a few times now, so no problems there. Remembering back to when we first did it, a transmission jack is a big help as they are a heavy lump and tend to rotate as the weight distribution is heavier on the side with the front prop.

Also when putting it back in we put a jack and block of wood under the front pulley to get the angle of the engine to match the angle of the box for it to go straight back in.

The top starter motor bolt is a bit of a pig, it's not too bad when you get into it, I used a ring spanner or a ratchet spanner from memory.

I struggled with it this time as the bolt was ridiculously tight from whoever last fitted it, I had to get an impact gun on it with an elaborate series of extensions and swivels from above in the end. All of the bolts were crazy tight. You can get the proper torqueing values from the workshop manuals available on the net, I just nipped up the starter motor bolt when I do it.

The top bellhousing bolts are pretty easy, I use a 1m extension bar and ratchet and I think a UJ.

It's very handy if you can get someone to do it with you, I wouldn't fancy doing it alone.

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Old 18th April 2006, 12:54 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Good guide

Im guessing you dont have a front strut brace, as this would have been the first thing to remove

Starter motor, drivers side driveshaft, and the top two bellhousing bolts are the worst jobs. You can drop the gearbox down to reach the top bolts but you still need monkey arms to get at them.
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