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Old 6th March 2019, 01:57 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Sheared off bolt - help!

Well, my rust-proofing efforts had all been going very well until about 30 minutes ago... Got my brackets and ARB back from the powder-coaters, the ARB looks like new:


Thought I would quickly put some of the brackets back on, only for the second bolt I went to to shear off! It's one of the two bolts that holds the bracket for the drop link onto the back of the wheel hub:


It's hard to see from the picture, but it has sheared off just inside the hole with most of the bolt inside. I started to try to drill it but the access is poor and the drillbit wouldn't go in straight.

So, I'm thinking I'll have to remove the heavy iron part of the hub (not sure what it's name is!) that the caliper and disc bolt onto along with the various control arms. Has anyone done this job before? I've done similar jobs on other cars but always feel more nervous when it's the GTR...

I was thinking remove the caliper, disc and various control arms, plus the bolt for the shock absorber and then I should be able to get it off and take it to a machine shop for them to extract the bolt. I'm hoping I won't need to remove the hub nut or CV joint?

Any (helpful!) comments/advice would be appreciated :-)
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Old 6th March 2019, 03:13 PM   #2 (permalink)
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it like most things in life if you know how to do it its easy , best way to get broken bolts out is with a welder but only if you have the skills . if you do you can get thous out in position without removing anything
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Old 6th March 2019, 03:23 PM   #3 (permalink)
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jesus, did they just coat over the rust? lol

as for the bolt, nightmare. did the bolt shear as you undid it or did it up? was it tight tor just weak?
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Old 6th March 2019, 03:47 PM   #4 (permalink)
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The two parts off the undertrays were very rusty so they don't look as appealing. The ARB was also pretty bad and now looks perfect, all smooth and nice! I've had to replace two of the other metal undertray bits as they were beyond saving.

The bolt sheared as I tightened it, I guess it must have had a weakness. I was using my powerful electric impact wrench, which I never use normally except when removing stuck bolts. Typical!
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Old 6th March 2019, 04:01 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lordretsudo View Post
The two parts off the undertrays were very rusty so they don't look as appealing. The ARB was also pretty bad and now looks perfect, all smooth and nice! I've had to replace two of the other metal undertray bits as they were beyond saving.

The bolt sheared as I tightened it, I guess it must have had a weakness. I was using my powerful electric impact wrench, which I never use normally except when removing stuck bolts. Typical!
Ouch!!!!
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Old 6th March 2019, 04:06 PM   #6 (permalink)
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probably just as easy to pay someone to come out and do it for you - I did this when I snapped a stud of in the head of my RB25 changing a broken exhaust manifold - of course it had to be the one right at the back of the head.

made a phone call, they guy came out and 20 mins and £50 later it was sorted
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Old 6th March 2019, 04:09 PM   #7 (permalink)
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probably just as easy to pay someone to come out and do it for you - I did this when I snapped a stud of in the head of my RB25 changing a broken exhaust manifold - of course it had to be the one right at the back of the head.

made a phone call, they guy came out and 20 mins and £50 later it was sorted
Sounds like a good plan. Just have to find someone who'll come and do it!
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Old 6th March 2019, 05:37 PM   #8 (permalink)
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You can drive it without the roll bar attached, it will understeer more than usual but will not be a major issue. You will be able to get it to a workshop.
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Old 6th March 2019, 06:16 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Get a bolt remover. It’s like a tapered drill bit with a left hand thread. Spin it in anti clockwise and it’ll bite and unscrew at the same time

AND NEVER USE AN IMPACT WRENCH TO DO. ONLY UN DO

And that control arm is aluminium. Don’t touch it with anything other than fingers
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Old 6th March 2019, 07:00 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Get a bolt remover. Itís like a tapered drill bit with a left hand thread. Spin it in anti clockwise and itíll bite and unscrew at the same time
I actually tried one of these some years back but didn't have much luck. It probably wasn't good enough quality!
Quote:
AND NEVER USE AN IMPACT WRENCH TO DO. ONLY UN DO
I know, I know, I was just being lazy and thought "Oh, they're just bolts for a bracket, there won't be any harm quickly using the wrench..."

Quote:
And that control arm is aluminium. Donít touch it with anything other than fingers
I didn't realise that, thanks for the warning!
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Old 6th March 2019, 07:02 PM   #11 (permalink)
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You can drive it without the roll bar attached, it will understeer more than usual but will not be a major issue. You will be able to get it to a workshop.
Thanks for confirming: I was assuming it would probably be safe to drive if I'm gentle... I just need to put the exhaust back on first, then I'll try to find someone to remove the bolt. Fingers crossed.
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Old 7th March 2019, 10:44 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Drill a pilot hole in it, use a centre punch for alignment if poss.
Use left hand extractor.
Rust off has worked good for me in the past and also warming the surrounding aluminium evenly with a gas soldering iron or map gas gun.

Good luck
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Old 7th March 2019, 10:45 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Drill a pilot hole in it, use a centre punch for alignment if poss.
Use left hand extractor.
Rust off has worked good for me in the past and also warming the surrounding aluminium evenly with a gas soldering iron or map gas gun.

Good luck
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Old 7th March 2019, 01:44 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I find the bolt extractors/removers - whatever they're called - a bit hit and miss. Definitely need a good pilot hole and a quality bit. I find they need plenty of torque but slow speed on the drill (if that makes sense) to get it to bite in - Left hand extractor. The (expensive) Halford's one I bought was crap Ended up getting a pack from Homebase (blue packaging) that did the trick nicely.

ps. ARB looks good - came out well.. Hope you get things sorted.
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Old 7th March 2019, 06:38 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I think youll need to weld a nut onto whats left of the stud, I cant see a stud extractor working on this, steel and alloy mixed are terrible for corroding together
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Old 8th March 2019, 02:38 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Melting point of steel is 1510 degrees C. The aluminium it sits in has a melting point of 660 degrees C. Good luck welding that
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Old 8th March 2019, 08:09 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WingedBeast1968 View Post
Melting point of steel is 1510 degrees C. The aluminium it sits in has a melting point of 660 degrees C. Good luck welding that
Despite that being true, heat directly applied to the bolt by arc welding works well. I have never had any damage by arc welding nuts on. The heat also helps to loosen it but will make it lose its temper and be soft. Never had much luck with stud extractors. Usually can't get them aligned. Just a thought that a drill guide might help.
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Old 10th March 2019, 10:03 PM   #18 (permalink)
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wingedbeast1968 using a welder to get broken studs out is a old tried and tested way that,s been used for years and years ,not just for silly little bolts on cars but major components in engineering ,where you may be using torque multipliers on broken bolts when you've built them up with weld there that tight . Obliviously you don,t just use ordinary welding rods ,it another one of the old engineering skills that thy just don,t teach anymore
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