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Old 13th July 2019, 09:35 PM   #1 (permalink)
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r34 gtr no sparks

Hello,

So I bought a relatively stock R34 GTR and after 500kms (all was working fine) the engine just shutdown on the highway.

The engine is cranking but refuse to start again.

So in the correct order, I checked using the supplement service manual:

-no engine light at any moment

-fuel pump (I can hear it when I switch on the key and the fuel pipe gets hard)

-checked all the fuses next to the throttle pedal and also in the engine bay

-self diagnostic give me error 55 (so no malfunction)

-I have 12V to the coil ignition on the power pin of this coil

-I don't have an oscilloscope however when cranking the engine I must see like 0.06V to 0.09V on the command of the coil ignition using a multimeter but I got 0v on each command of the spark plug

-wiring of the ignition coil is okay (continuity test)

-There was an aftermarket ignition control box (adic siccle advanced ignition control) connected to the ECM; so I removed it however after doing so I got error 20 ? (the orignal hairness seems to be intact !)

-I open the ECM but didn't find anything bad (bad soldering, blow components ...)

So this investigation supposed that the ECM is not working properly ?!

Question :

-what is error code 20 ?

-if the ECM is working fine; what are the causes that avoid it to command the ignition coils ?

There is also an aftermarket alarm I normally desarm it (using the key fob) code alarm PF7600 I don't think there is a relation to my problem but I mention this.

Thanks for any hint
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Old 13th July 2019, 09:39 PM   #2 (permalink)
TABZ is R35 GT-R
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r34 gtr no sparks

Check 10amp fuse in boot next to battery.

Also check the belt hasnít jumped.
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Old 13th July 2019, 10:30 PM   #3 (permalink)
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thanks for your quick reply

however like I said I got the 12v on the power pin of each ignition cool which mean that the fuse and the relay is okay

best regards
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Old 14th July 2019, 03:37 AM   #4 (permalink)
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If possible, take it to a shop! However if you're really interested in diagnosing it yourself...

The R34 does have an immobilizer that wouldn't allow it to start if it were malfunctioning, however in that case, I would think that the engine wouldn't crank. My first suspect would be that ignition amplifier and how it's been wired in. A ground could have come loose or something as you were driving along.

You could also try buying a spare known-working ECU and swapping it in just to eliminate that as a possibility and you should still check all of the fuses in the engine bay.
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Old 14th July 2019, 08:06 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks for your reply
I really appreciated

Taking to a shop is not really possible; I live in France and this kind of car is rare so I prefer to do it myself.

By ignition amplifier, you mean the spark plug coil ?
Well I have no sparks on the 6; so I don't think all the 6 just blow like this ?
For the wiring of these coils, it's a 3 pin connector:
-ground is okay
-power is okay (I got 12v when ignition key is switch on); means that fuse and relay are fine
-command seems not to be okay (using a multimeter I got 0V instead of 0.06v -0.09v when cranking); means that ECU don't command them (continuity test of the hairness between ECU and spark plug coil is fine )

Can I used any R34 GTR ECU ?
Will it required some software (and/or hardware) modification

Best regards
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Old 14th July 2019, 10:29 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I'm sorry, by "ignition amplifier" I meant the aftermarket ADIC "advanced injection controller" box. If you have an error code after uninstalling it, meaning not just unplugging it but removing its harness from the factory injector and ignition wiring and putting everything back to stock, something isn't connected properly. It's unusual to find one of those in a Skyline and I would suspect that it hasn't been installed well and shouldn't be necessary in the first place.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think the R34 ECU cares about which chassis it's in and you should be able to swap in another one without changing anything. Most likely the problem is something else though. Immobilizer, a fuse, a bad ground, etc.
One more thing you could check is the wiring going to the crank angle sensor on the front of the valve cover.
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Old 14th July 2019, 10:52 AM   #7 (permalink)
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It looks like you are not getting a switching feed to the coils. I would go to the injectors to see if they are switching too. You can use a tester on the see if itís switching or alternatively, check one side you will have battery voltage (+) and the other side is switched earth on cranking.
If you have got injectors working then this would confirm itís only on ignition side, or if not then Iíd be looking at the CAS sensor. (Make sure the plug is in first maybe)
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Old 14th July 2019, 11:22 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks for your hint guys !

But it looks like CAS
wiring from ECU to CAS is okay
CAS is correcltly powered

When cranking the engine the ring of the cam sensor don't move so I will remove completely the sensor and see what's behind.

Do you have an idea what can be the root cause ? (it looks like mechanical issue ...)

see pictures


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Old 14th July 2019, 12:42 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quite a bit of metal there. Mark up the cas and the cambelt cover so it will go in the same place when you put it back (not that I think that’ll be going back on) then take the 3 10mm off that hold it on. You then pull the CAS off. Be careful. If it’s broken you don’t want anything falling into the cambelt area. Also make sure the cam is turning too.
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Old 14th July 2019, 02:08 PM   #10 (permalink)
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So end of the story

the bearing blocked and then the axe broke.

I guess the axe can't be bought individually and I will need a new one ?

What about buying an used one and changed the bearing ? (cost less)

Thanks for your rapidity and advices !


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Old 14th July 2019, 04:57 PM   #11 (permalink)
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That’ll be it then!
Contact one of the traders on here, they are all helpful. Or put an ad in the wanted section.
You will need to set the timing up again to 20 degrees before TDC. It’s easy to do, just use a HT lead and a timing light.
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Old 14th July 2019, 05:03 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Thanks I just buy one on aliexpress (about 60E!) which has same quality as original I will have a try on them

Why ? because I marked the screw before removing the old one so I just need to put the new one at the correct place

Thanks for your support
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Old 14th July 2019, 08:14 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Ok.
Because it is a different part. It might be ok but it could be a few degrees different, which would give you issues. I would definitely check it to be sure.
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Old 15th July 2019, 01:41 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigboss59400 View Post
Thanks I just buy one on aliexpress (about 60E!) which has same quality as original I will have a try on them

Why ? because I marked the screw before removing the old one so I just need to put the new one at the correct place

Thanks for your support
I hope you're not buying an RB CAS unit from Aliexpress! they're famous for selling Chinese knockoffs etc etc.
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Old 15th July 2019, 02:10 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenecchi View Post
I'm sorry, by "ignition amplifier" I meant the aftermarket ADIC "advanced injection controller" box. If you have an error code after uninstalling it, meaning not just unplugging it but removing its harness from the factory injector and ignition wiring and putting everything back to stock, something isn't connected properly. It's unusual to find one of those in a Skyline and I would suspect that it hasn't been installed well and shouldn't be necessary in the first place.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think the R34 ECU cares about which chassis it's in and you should be able to swap in another one without changing anything. Most likely the problem is something else though. Immobilizer, a fuse, a bad ground, etc.
One more thing you could check is the wiring going to the crank angle sensor on the front of the valve cover.
You are correct you can swap another ECU and the car will fire, I was present when Abbey did it on mine to test something.
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Old 15th July 2019, 05:03 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by R34SKYGTR View Post
You are correct you can swap another ECU and the car will fire, I was present when Abbey did it on mine to test something.
Only if NATS has been removed/ deactivated. The key is coded to the immobiliser per ECU.

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