Thought it was about time I posted some pics of my GTR. Had it now for around 6 months so you could say I've been a bit lazy in the pic department :chuckle: :chuckle: .
Anyway, here goes....
Not very arty-fart but gives you the jist of how it looks. As you can see, I've removed the 'Skyline anniversary' sticker off the boot lid to make it look a bit cleaner
As far as the exterior goes, I only intend to add a Nismo boot lip and that will be it as I love the look of an R32 with N1 body 'kit'.
No underbonnet shots yet i'm afraid as I thought id wait until I get my Tomei Fuel rail and braided hoses fitted which will tart things up a bit :chuckle:
oh... and the caps on the JAZ tanks are pish! The seal seems to get out of shape and makes it quite a job to refit the cap at times. We have changed ours to an extended filler to the wing - alu pipe with screw cap fitting
Cradle and boot floor painted inside and out, cell mounted in place and lift pumps mounted. Obviously wiring to follow but glad the physical bits out the way. My back's a bit achey from it all despite the rear end of the car being on axle stands a fair bit in the air!!
Start back to work tomorrow after a few days off so will be looking to get the swirl pot, filters and pumps dummy mounted. I had looked to use Aeroquip push-fit hose (which I feel is more than up to the job) but am erring towards using hardline as I think it might look better and cope better with the myriad bends there will no doubt be!!.
I'll sleep on it I think!
Been hard at it today and mounted the swirl pot, filters and 044's permanently...
Im really pleased with how the boot install has turned out!! Pretty much to plan, which is a first :chuckle:
Doing a bit of head scratching over the pump wiring but its now just a case of fixing the new FPR on the O/S inner wing with the fuel temp sensor block, buying some 1/2 hardline and connecting it all up....
Managed to get myself a pipe bender for £20 which should do the trick. Unfortunately my small pipe bender that I use for brake lines etc just isnt big enough . The proper imperial 1/2" benders were just extortionate so I've gone for the metric ones that bend 15/22mm. Im reckoning that they should be OK. While searching for pipe benders I noticed a mandrel bender from useful tools..Cracking stuff but too expensive to justify for my needs. Just thought I'd mention it in case anyone else is looking for a good quality bender (oo-er...:chuckle
Anyway,should get the FPR done tomorrow and maybe attack some wiring thats been needing removed.
Also now in my posession is a Ross Tuffbond Race damper which I've been looking for for some time now. Cheers Wade!!!! Now all I need to do is find a trigger wheel and sensor that will be compatible. The Ross one is fine but I'm not convinced about the number of teeth on the wheel....would much prefer a 36-1 rather than the 12 tooth trigger they offer.....
Emailed them earlier to see if they offer any alternative trigger pattern. The angular resolution of a 36 tooth (or greater) will be far greater than a 12. Not saying the 12 is crap, just that id prefer more teeth....
It has my custom fuel temp block attached on the right as you can see. I'll be using AN-10 lines from rail return to FPR and then rearwards to swirl pot. The pot-tank return will also be -10 just to ensure theres enough capacity for all the returning fuel at idle.
Also managed to make a little bracket for the MAC boost solenoid (the same one that AEM use!) and mounted that in the same area...
Will get the hardline, tube sleeves and nuts on payday and plumb it in. Then just the pump wiring to sort out and the fuel systems done!!!!
Really nice work you have been doing buddy, also some very nice parts in there to. Keep up good work keep pictures coming & good luck with the rest may force be with you. Subscribed
So, after a while trying to understand what it was I wanted from my pump wiring I have made progress...to the point where the wirings all done!!!! Been working hard over the last couple of days sorting it all out but I'm finally there...
Relay and fuse area
Shot showing some plumbing from lift pumps to swirl pot
Switches in place for isolating pumps..
And another..
What I wanted was a setup that kept the original ECU switching of the relays but with a manual over-ride. The reason for doing this was if I needed to have the battery master ON, say to reflash the logger or something like that, but NOT have the pumps spinning. The 2 boot-mounted switches will be kept in the ON position and will each have a flip cover for protection.....
The benefit of this is that it will be VERY obvious if the switches are in the OFF position as the flip cover will be up. Yes, I could have used a single switch for all 4 pumps but I'd like to have the ability to run just 1 set of pumps, say for fuel sampling etc
Also wired up my datalogger (which I installed a few days back)....
to a spare switch...(guess which one!!)
Race Technology recommend that the logger is switched so it can be powered up AFTER the car has started. The memory MAY become corrupted if it is on while cranking. The spare wire underneath the unit is for a remote logging button which I'll sort out at a later date.
Wiring the pumps reminded me of just how much I DETEST automotive electrics. One thing added to the list of 'wants' is to get the whole thing professionally rewired in a motorsport fashion. OK, everything works at the moment and its all done right but it is anything but pretty...
Just waiting now on the 1/2" fuel feed aluminium hardline and fittings and then I can crack on with the plumbing. Unfortunately Summit Racing (who I thoroughly recommend!!) have the fittings on back order so it will be a couple of weeks before I get my hands on them)
Well pleased with the progress over the last few days. Just need to tidy and wrap the wiring with tape and I can forget about it!
Cracked on today and got the boot wiring all tidied as well as removing a few of the underbonnet multiplugs no longer needed. While I was there I finally got around to removing the pump for the rear window washer from my RIPS catchtank/washer bottle. To facilitate this I spent a bit of time on the lathe making a barbed bung almost identical to the one I made for the cam covers
only sightly larger!! Came out a treat and leak free when installed :chuckle:
Took the time to reflash my data logger to the latest firmware. This sounds easy but an issue with my laptop being a ***t meant that I had to use my desktop, which is on the 1st floor connected by a 5M serial-USB cable. As it turned out I didn't have one long enough but used around 6 smaller ones to make it up. The neighbour thought I was barmy!! :chuckle:
I'm really starting to run out of jobs to do until my fuel pipes and fittings arrive....When that's all done I reckon I can finally get round to concentrating on saving some cash for the ECU. This months 'car cash' will go on the last couple of sensors and then that'll be it!
So, underbonnet wiring attended to (well, the bits I wanted to do!) and catchtank/washer bottle back in minus rear wash pump.
Removed the wire for the remote logging button as I forgot that I can do this through the Dash2 functionality!! Really excited about getting ECU, Dash2 and DL1 logger all connected as I think its going to be an awesome bit of kit and damn useful. Theres just soooo much you can do with it all that I think Im really going to have to study the manual HARD in order to set it up properly. The data analysis functionality will be great in determining where I can squeeze more out of the car and also in honing my driving ability. Also makes it easier to assess changes made to the car's power and handling.
The frustration in waiting for an ECU is really annoying me now but theres not much I can do. Only need to buy the crank angle sensor and the wideband and all cash can then be put to the ECU. I will go for Andy's (AMT) crank sensor kit as soon as he finishes development of the Ross compatible one. Wideband-wise...it seems theres a lab-grade NTK sensor that Syvecs use and recommend for their ECU's so I will go for that. Not cheap I hear but VERY accurate which is a trade-off I can justify.
Lots of awesome work there. Liking the fuel system but -10 lines are you running methanol? Thats HUGE!
Also regarding wideband sensors save your pennies and buy a bosch lsu 4.9. They are very accurate especially in the LEAN region where its hardest to measure not that you will run anywhere near that. The accuracy is in the controller/calibration not the sensor. I have been in some of the most expensive engine test cells in the world, I'm talking (2million+) and guess which sensors they use....
Only using -10 for the return line. I feel that twin -8 supply lines warrant a bit extra for the return. Not so much of an issue when on WOT but at idle there will be a large %age of fuel returning to the swirl pot.....a -10 line provides this.
HAD thought about using the LSU4.9...in fact, it was my wideband of choice but my ECU has an onboard NTK controller and as I'm going to be a bit tight on inputs, utilising the onboard controller leaves one of the inputs spare. Besides, the NTK they recommend is the lab grade one which is supposedly VERY accurate.
Can't believe its been almost a month since I posted any updates!!..me bad! Have had loads of things going on with overseas trips with work, helping a mate rebuild his Fiesta RS Turbo and continuing my distance learning degree course (among other things!!!). Been pretty full-on!
So, been busy over the last few days and managed to get the feed side of the fuel system finished:clap:... Looks pretty purposeful in the boot these days...
And close ups of the AN-8 aluminium hardline from 044's to 90degree bulkhead fittings..
Have also done the braided hoses to the fuel rail. The hardline terminates around the steering column are of the off-side chassis rail and connects to some teflon lined braided hose. Looks great but unfortunately forgot to take piccies of that so they will come soon. Used the heavy duty loctite threadlock on all threads so I cant really see them coming loose anytime soon. Have to say that this weeks favourite tool is the 37degree flaring tool!! Its awesome! :chuckle:
Once I get paid I will order the AN-10 hardline and fittings for the return line and then get around to flushing it all through and checking for leaks. Then I can sit back and forget the fuel system for a while :chuckle::chuckle:
I really like your fuel setup! I did the same with my fuel cell and cutting out the spare tyre. You gave me some good ideas tho! Can't wait to see more
Received some more fittings and hose and have sorted out the rail-regulator line....was a VERY tight fit against the throttle linkage...actually had to remove it to get the fitting on!
Have also bought the fittings for the cam covers as you can see but am still waiting on the fittings for the catchtank side. I reckon it looks pretty good under there with all the fittings and hose etc...proper 'motorsport' :chuckle: But, as usual, I'm not fussed about looks, as long as it all performs the intended function.
Have also ordered the -10 aluminium hardline for the return and decided to bite the bullet and fit a 9 row cooler to it as well. I reckon it'd be stupid not to do it now when it's all in bits. Should have it all done by the end of this weekend which is good because I can now get back to concentrating on channeling the cash towards the ECU!!! :clap:
I totally agree Adam. Far better than the '26 covers IMHO. They're not difficult to get a hold of, paid about £25 for mine IIRC??
Had some more stuff arrive today so that about covers it for underbonnet plumbing...
Well chuffed!!
Just the return line and cooler to go and fuel system finished and ready to test
TT
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