Thought it was about time I posted some pics of my GTR. Had it now for around 6 months so you could say I've been a bit lazy in the pic department :chuckle: :chuckle: .
Anyway, here goes....
Not very arty-fart but gives you the jist of how it looks. As you can see, I've removed the 'Skyline anniversary' sticker off the boot lid to make it look a bit cleaner
As far as the exterior goes, I only intend to add a Nismo boot lip and that will be it as I love the look of an R32 with N1 body 'kit'.
No underbonnet shots yet i'm afraid as I thought id wait until I get my Tomei Fuel rail and braided hoses fitted which will tart things up a bit :chuckle:
Is that a RIPS catch tank? Looks identical to our last one We've now swapped to one that drain the sump, and sits over on the otherside where the screen washbottle used to sit.
Got my covers of Ebay. There were quite a few pairs at the time I was looking to buy. Just a heads-up if you ever do decide to go RB25 covers....but you might want to get yourself a small 'button' made up (or I could make you one) like what I have done here..
The std covers have, what appears to be, a one way valve and the button just plugs up the hole left when it's removed.
The catchtank/washer bottle is indeed a RIPS item, had it for a while and it does the job nicely! (Although *Note to Rob*...AN-16 fittings are an ass, stick to -10 or -12 :chuckle. The one I have has a drain plug at the bottom which, if I could be arsed, I suppose I could drain back to sump. I MAY get around to doing that, I might not!!
The PCV.... i have a brass fitting on the RB26 if its the same thing.
Are your breather fittings simple press/push in to the covers?
I'm in two minds.... we've just fitted revised baffles to the RB26 covers, which would be pointless on the RB25 ones BUT the RB25 would or should suffer less of the surge we seen on track (oil forced to back of engine under hard acceleration)
Our revised setup simply drains the two cam cover vents (RB26) to the turbo oil drian via a vemted to atmosphere catch tank. Reminds me we have the RIPS one to sell
The breather fittings I tapped into the covers. Bought a tap specially for An-10 (which has come in handy for a few things now) and just screwed the fittings in place. Far more elegant than bonding/welding etc.
Im SO glad I went with 25 covers....makes me wonder why Nissan chose to design the 26 covers the way they did....its a poorer design IMHO.
No, not yet. Will contact him (as well as my other 'possibles' for installation/mapping and see how I get on. Love the S6, but I think an S8 will suit the ultimate spec of the car better..
Depands what you want from your Syvecs to what model you have fitted;
the S6 is limited to 1 knock sensor and 1 lambda sensor input and is also limited to I/O ( inputs/outputs) which will hold you back with regards data logging other inputs other than oil pressure/oil temperature/fuel pressure+ 1 other items.
Do you guys want to run traction control as well if so and you want to go over to a Crank sensor 36-1/phase sensor then you really need to go over to the S8 Syvecs Model as running traction control on a S6 takes up a couple of the Inputs that we normally use for input data-logging.
We have been using a S6 on our 350Z development car for a few months now ( car is only N/A) but the traction control is awesome,data-logging is very good as well , multi calibrations for both Traction and Engine is good as well.
With regards crank trigger set up if your wanting to make big BHP i would say go over to 36-1(36-2) set up but if it is a road car the CAS should work okay.
Hey Mark, you're one of the 'possibles' I was going to contact :chuckle:. Been in contact with Ryan via Syvecs site about all this and it was primarily the issue with number of inputs and the knock control that made me decide S8 was the way forward. Pat (at Syvecs) did mention they have an S6 expansion module available to extend the number of inputs but I really think S8 is the way forward for me TBH. AM I right in thinking that the S8 can directly drive the coilpacks and injectors without ignitor (coils) and resistor pack (inj)??
For crank position sensing I am definitely going to move to a crank trigger and am waiting on Andy (AMT) to sort out his kit based on the Ross damper I will be using. As for traction control, its something I would like to explore but perhaps not initially until I have had the car out a few times and become familiar with the handling again. I am intending to fit signal conditioners to all 4 wheel sensors so I can feed them into the ECU. Obviously this is essential for traction control so the hardware will already be in place!
Seeing as you have brought it up could you quote me for an S8, installed and mapped. I have added some extra sensors (which have been fitted and have the correct connectors) that I would need connected to the ECU also...nothing crazy. An approximate figure would be great :thumbsup:
Just an observation. But would the return to tank not be better being lower down than from right out the top of the swirl pot.
Id have the feeds from pumps going in top fittings and return from rail and return to tak out the side fittings. To stop the swirl pot becoming to presurised
Always return out of the top of the swirl pot to the main tank as this will remove the air from the swirl pot.
And it doesn't matter where the pipes are fitted the pressure is dictated by the supplying pump , the return pipe size and the amount of fuel returned from the fuel rail.
You find your see most pressure in the swirl pot when idling due to the amount of fuel being returned.
Well, been getting a few more parts together to finish off this bleedin fuel system once and for all...
Now have the fuel cooling matrix (a 9 row oil cooler)
AN-10 (5/8") aluminium hardline and fittings
AN-10 90deg bulkhead fitting, AN-10 push-on hose and fittings.
Also got some 76mm neoprene hose with a spun aluminium intake
to feed air through a rectangular vent which will be getting bonded to the front of the cooler so all the collected air gets forced through and not wasted! This weekend has unfortunately been unavailable for working on the car due to a family visit so I will crack on on Monday night after work. Will hopefully have it all fitted, plumbed and tested by midweek I reckon!
In the meantime I have also bagged a new Nismo transmission mount and a 6pt roll cage!! The cage was a coup as I've been after one for a while. I HAD originally planned to go with a fully welded in one but the factors of cost and time came into play. To get the cage I wanted would have cost over ÂŁ2k and taken me around 6 months to channel funds in that direction.
Going to a bolt in gives me most of the protection for a fraction of the cost. I can always brace the bolt in to the chassis later for extra stiffening. Besides, I NEED to get funds put away for the Syvecs S8 and going daft on a ÂŁ2k cage isn't really helping the ECU fund. The bolt-in didn't exactly come up at a great time but I couldn't pass up the opportunity!! (thanks Al!!!)
Getting the cage done sooner rather than later means I can fit my fibreglass doors and lexan windows earlier and reap the weight benefits that these bring!!
No, I added Nismo vents to the front bumper. The rear side spats are Nismo but the rest of the side skirts are just modified std items (i.e cut down as the genuine Nismo items are moulded shorter than std)
Going to make a custom fibreglass air duct for the cooler as I cant find anything off the shelf that will do what I need it to do. Other than that, I just need to fill it with some Super and test for leaks!! Taken more time and ÂŁÂŁÂŁ than anticipated but it's worth it. A BIG shout out again to Alex at Torques.co.uk for the great service received and the speedy delivery of all my hoses/fittings etc..
Been busy making a plywood mould for my cooler duct....coming along nicely... Will post pics up when its done.
Thought I had nothing better to do yesterday than but some S/U/L and flush the boot part of the system through to get any debris etc out of the tank/swirl pot/lines. Connected battery, activated master and switched on IGN only to find the pumps spinning for around 2s before shutting off!!!....Now the funny thing was, when I checked all the connections immediately after initial wiring, I only flicked the ignition on for a second so I wouldnt damage the pumps. I assumed that as they were working, everything was OK and left it at that!. Now the way I wired the relays up, the ground for the feeds is via ECU (Pin 18 IIRC..the brown/pink wire). It seems that this is only a momentary ground and switches off after a couple of seconds!!!
So, after cutting this wire and grounding straight to the chassis, everything is fine once again....
Had to undo the rear ARB so I could get in with the drill to finish of the rear fuel cooler mount. While it was off I remembered Mark (Abbey Mark :chuckle saying he thought the solid rear ARB linkages I made up were a bit suspect and recommended I change it.....to that end I have bought some rod ends and LH/RH threaded rod to make PROPER turnbuckles.
So, having ordered
4x(2 R/H, 2 L/H)
Some boots..
spacers...
and stainless threaded rod...
I can now crack on and do what I was going to do in the first place... Just need to make up some U-shaped mounting brackets and I can put that job to bed.
On another note, I was having some difficulty in working out how I was going to tighten up the underfloor fittings which attach to the bulkhead fittings for the fuel feed and return lines. Space is VERY limited and spanners are a non-starter. Had a brainwave and bought some 7/8"(for the -8AN fittings) and a 1" (for the -10AN fittings) crow foot wrenches. Man, I cannot believe, even as an ex-mechanic that I had not discovered these earlier..they do the job perfectly and are AWESOME!!!
Rod ends, boots and spacers arrived very promptly (as always) from McGill Motorsports back up in Scotland :thumbsup:
Along with the stainless LH/RH threaded rod I bought I made up some links...
OK, these are just what they looked like mocked up.....the finished articles have the side spacer INSIDE the boots and the threaded rod has been cut down by 15mm each side. This gives a 'between centres' measurement of 70mm which, when combined with the U-shaped mounts will give an acceptable ARB-lower arm distance. Also had to weld an M6 nut in the middle of each rod as I mistakenly thought the rods came with them. A quick zip up with the MIG sorted the problem :squintdan
Made 2 of the U-shaped mounts but the cold in the garage forced me to flee into the house for the night .
Will finish off the remaining 2 over the weekend and get them fitted...
Thought I would get on with finishing the rear ARB droplinks. Thought it would be a dead-easy, straight-forward job.....LOL, NO!!
Thing is, I bought M6 rod ends as I reckoned that would be the MINIMUM I would want in terms of strength in the interconnecting threaded rod. Now, as you can see from the pics, the assemblies are as short as I could practically get them...about 68mm between centres. Thing is, I couldn't get the ARB to swing low enough to get anywhere near that.
Now, I couldnt shorten the drop links any further so I decided on a 2 step approach...
Firstly, I dropped the ARB mounts by 20mm (2x10mm plates)...
That helped loads but wasn't enough. I noticed that the ARB hits the diff mount so I removed the small crossmember and 'processed' it :chuckle:...
This then gave enough gap to get the links in.....
Very happy with results but surprised at the lengths I had to go to fit them . There's more than enough swing in the links to cater for any movement so its all good. Glad its done and dusted......
Had hoped to get on with laminating my fuel cooler duct mould...
but, TBH, the time it took me to finish the droplinks left me a bit weary. I prefer to do any composite stuff in one go and there was never going to be enough time left to prep, gelcoat and lay-up the glassfibre so I'll do that another day.
TT
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