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Old 31st March 2012, 08:59 PM   #201 (permalink)
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also.....

how are you going to run the in-car system? Remain push to talk or voice/noise activated (may be tricky with in car noises)
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Old 31st March 2012, 09:22 PM   #202 (permalink)
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very interesting! Something iv wanted to do.
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Old 1st April 2012, 11:53 AM   #203 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Adam Kindness View Post
also.....

how are you going to run the in-car system? Remain push to talk or voice/noise activated (may be tricky with in car noises)
OK, firstly my open face helmet has Peltor speakers/mic built in. This will plug directly into a Peltor FMT120 intercom unit (this will be powered by car). A push-to-talk switch will be positioned on the steering wheel which also plugs directly into the FMT120. An adapter cable (which Peltor supply) will link the FMT120 to the GP340 handset. Another handset in the pits set to the same freq is all you need. I have decided, that for better reception range, I will mount an external UHF aerial on the roof and use a BNC adaptor in place of the original Mototola aerial.
You can see on page 7 in this Peltor document how it connects. As you can see, you can also have the comms via mobile phone instead AND connect a cam.
Licence-wise, I have contacted OFCOM and JFMG (who manage some parts of the frequency spectrum).
Response from JFMG:-
Quote:
Hi Scott,

A licence to cover you for pit to car comms is something that either JFMG can help you with or Ofcom. JFMG will charge walkie-talkie type comms at £8.50 per frequency per venue per 48hrs. This would be a coordinated, protected frequency between the range 440 - 470 MHz. Ofcom do provide a lite licence, this is cheaper and would allow walkie-talkie comms in the range 440 - 470 MHz but for a one off payment for annual use, anywhere in the UK. However, frequencies on a lite licence are not protected from other users of lite licence frequencies. I am unsure of the fees involved; you can contact the Business Radio department within Ofcom to query this
Response from OFCOM:-
Quote:
Dear Scott,

A Simple UK Licence would suit your needs.

This licence authorises the use of hand-portable or mobile radio equipment anywhere within the UK. Base station use is not permitted.

Licensees have access to fifteen frequencies spread across four Business Radio frequency bands and must share and self-coordinate with other Simple UK Light licensees.
The licence fee is £75 for five years.
So you can see there are 2 options...Go the JFMG route and pay per event and have a dedicated frequency OR pay OFCOM £75 for 5 years unlimited use but share frequencies with other users. I prefer the second option.

However, this is only relevant as I have radios that require licence....there are other types that do not.

As for the parts themselves, everything has been sourced from Ebay. You COULD also use the older, cheaper FMT110(?) intercom but you'd then need a radio adapter unit (of which the newer FMT120 has built-in) so it probably works out about the same price-wise....

TT
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Old 17th April 2012, 02:39 PM   #204 (permalink)
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Another small update....
Finally received (due to customs faffing around) my new front Wilwood P6R calipers, courtesy of The Racing Depot. They are just frigging massive!!!! I didnt quite appreciate just how big they were going to be!!...
For scale, I placed them next to my 310mm dia rear rotors....

TBH, even against the rotors the pic just doesnt do it justice. Another thing I'm going to have to consider is just how WIDE the calipers are. Might have to end up mounting them a good bit more inboard. Not taken any measurements yet but I suspect that'll be the case. Ideally I want to use off the shelf Wilwood (or similar) bells rather than having them made. Upon initial investigation I think I'm going to be very limited with regard to rotors....the pads will need AT LEAST 66mm of rotor depth which is A LOT!! Not many manufacturers make rotors with this much meat on them. This in turn limits which off the shelf bell I can use as the Jap 5x4.5" (in old money) PCD is only seen on a few Wilwood bells.

The pads are just monster as well, taking up pretty much the whole of my left hand!!!..


They are about 30mm thick and are pre burnished and bedded for extended life and out-the-box useage....


Managed to release the mould from the rear bumper. Will remove the wooden buck which was used to fill the number plate recess. The idea is to make a copy of the rear bumper minus the number plate recess and the small rectangular recess below it. Should be a nice, smooth profile.


Which meant that I could reattach the std bumper back in place (for now). Its been off the car for so long that I've kind of forgotten what it looked like. Car exterior is now physically back together...


Also got some RB25 cam covers...

I've drilled out the top ports to 20.5mm and am going to use my SAE tap to tap them to take the -10 fittings I've bought. Had to buy bulkhead fittings but they will require shortening as the bottoms are a bit long!!....


Also made a start to the fabrication of my rear bells. Have 2 250x250mm, 6mm thick mild steel plates which I have marked out the wheel and rotor bolt holes.


Unfortunately my Myford lathe's about 5mm short on swing so will have to take these to local machine shop to have them turned down to 230mm diameter. Said machine shop are going to make me some mild steel rings up which I'll attach to the centre of each plate which will house the handbrake shoes. The rings will sit between the wheel bolt holes and the rotor bolt holes. Obviously I'll need to cut out a hole in the centre but have kept it whole for ease of machining.

Have also drilled out the oil return holes in my other sump which houses the GTS-4 CWP to 5mm which most folks seem to do. Managed to destroy the NS oil seal when removing the driveshaft tube so ordered a new one from RBM. Cheers guys!!
Im planning on fitting the sump and rear diff at the same time I change to solid engine mounts. I've not made these yet but I cant see it being too hard. Going to try and source some alu blocks and shape them accordingly.

Oh, before I forget, I've managed to get an EPRacing carbon canard set from someone on another forum so will be firing them on soon too!!.



Its been a busy couple of weeks after all .

TT
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Old 18th April 2012, 08:09 PM   #205 (permalink)
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Took my damaged spare sump around to a local aluminium welding company today to repair 2x70mm cracks. Not bad at £40. The interesting part came when I mentioned about converting the RB26 4wd sump to a dry sump pan....
Mentioned that I had had quotes of between £800-1000 to convert a sump pan to dry sump and the chap had a chuckle. He reckons he could easily do it for about 1/4 of the price so watch this space!!!! He's also a BIG motorsport fan and owns 2 ex-le mans Group C cars so he knows the score with dry sumps etc. Was a bit of a bolt from the blue but one I'll definately be pursuing at some point.

Had a rough look at my Wilwood front calipers Vs the std Nissan items. Looks reasonably straight forward but I forsee possible issues with caliper/wheel face clearance. I wont be able to mount the new rotor very far inboard from the present position of the standard disc due to the location of the lower balljoint. I'm in the middle of speccing my front rotors as I type so should make progress reasonably soon. By the looks of it I'm restricted to Wilwoods 160-5122/3 rotors which are about the ONLY rotors I can find that can take the 66mm depth of pad. Now, the mounting PCD of these rotors is 12x6.75" which is a very uncommon size and it seems Wilwood only do 1 bell. I see a few Alcon bells on Ebay which might do the job but info is pretty sparse on them. Alcon (both US and UK) dont seem to make ANY reference to bells on either website. If anyone knows where Alcon keep all their info on bells, PLEASE let me know.

TT
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Old 18th April 2012, 08:51 PM   #206 (permalink)
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I ended up getting some bells custom made for my Wilwoods, I couldn't find anything with the correct offset. They were no more than 10mm offset.
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Old 18th April 2012, 09:49 PM   #207 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tarmac terror View Post
Took my damaged spare sump around to a local aluminium welding company today to repair 2x70mm cracks. Not bad at £40. The interesting part came when I mentioned about converting the RB26 4wd sump to a dry sump pan....
Mentioned that I had had quotes of between £800-1000 to convert a sump pan to dry sump and the chap had a chuckle. He reckons he could easily do it for about 1/4 of the price so watch this space!!!! He's also a BIG motorsport fan and owns 2 ex-le mans Group C cars so he knows the score with dry sumps etc. Was a bit of a bolt from the blue but one I'll definately be pursuing at some point.

TT
I've no idea how much dry sump oil pumps cost but if the sump can be modded for so little this has to be an alternative to an expensive high flow pump, sump extension and baffles.
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Old 19th April 2012, 01:04 AM   #208 (permalink)
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Indeed it does.
I reckon a 4 stage pump will be in the region of (new) £8-900. Good used pumps can be had for half that...A decent Peterson oil tank will come in at around £3-400 with used ones for around £200. On top of that are all lines and fittings and some method of driving the pump...I would go for the Ross Metaljacket and associated pump drive fitting. If you have an ATI or Ross damper currently, then outlay will be less..
The availability of good used pumps and tanks is very good from the states as I've been in contact with a few companies recently specialising in ex-NASCAR bits who have excellent stocks of these parts. Some pumps have been used, some are new old-stock.

I reckon I could put a system together for about £14-1700.. And thats INCLUDING buying a balancer and drive kit.....As you say Cris, when you consider the price of a new, genuine Tomei oil pump it seems a bit of a no-brainer. With Hi-octane listing the parts of their kit on their website, its easy to see what size pump will be correct.

All this talk of RB26 kits for over £6k (when you include lines which the hi-octane kit does not) is just bonkers. I appreciate the development time etc but IMHO its WAY over the top and MORE than covers the cost of component parts.

Anyway, definite food for thought..

TT
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Old 20th April 2012, 03:47 PM   #209 (permalink)
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LOL...after some inspiration from our own Bobster (cheers Bob!!) I've modded my throttle linkage..



Although, unlike Bob, I've champfered mine PMSL....

..TBH, I've run out of (cheap) ideas on the car and Bob mentioned this one so I though 'bugger it' and got to work.. Used 12mm DeWalt extreme 2 bit which allows first time drilling without any dramas. Have to say, Extreme2 bits are worth the extra..by a country mile. Wouldnt dream of using anything else...they drilled through the soft aluminium like a knife through butter.
Used a 4mm spacing between the holes which worked out nicely!

Hats off to Bob though once again for his inspiration . Had he not mentioned it, I probably wouldnt have bothered. Now I can reap similar gains in fuel economy

TT
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Old 20th April 2012, 08:51 PM   #210 (permalink)
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Why are you going for the RB25 covers ?

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Old 20th April 2012, 09:46 PM   #211 (permalink)
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Prefer the idea of the top vent ports being a bit more forward than the 26 covers. Plus there's less hose required to reach my catchtank!!
Will be giving them a red crackle finish so should look pretty good..

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Old 21st April 2012, 12:30 AM   #212 (permalink)
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Nicely done Scott mate!!! does look proper good once done doesnt it?
im impressed with how quivkly you did yuours too! I have a few more of those sorts of ideas, watch this space!

bob

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Originally Posted by tarmac terror View Post
LOL...after some inspiration from our own Bobster (cheers Bob!!) I've modded my throttle linkage..



Although, unlike Bob, I've champfered mine PMSL....

..TBH, I've run out of (cheap) ideas on the car and Bob mentioned this one so I though 'bugger it' and got to work.. Used 12mm DeWalt extreme 2 bit which allows first time drilling without any dramas. Have to say, Extreme2 bits are worth the extra..by a country mile. Wouldnt dream of using anything else...they drilled through the soft aluminium like a knife through butter.
Used a 4mm spacing between the holes which worked out nicely!

Hats off to Bob though once again for his inspiration . Had he not mentioned it, I probably wouldnt have bothered. Now I can reap similar gains in fuel economy

TT
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Old 21st April 2012, 10:05 AM   #213 (permalink)
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LOL..thanks Bob!!
Youre right though, it does look a lot better...a bit more 'motorsport' heh-heh....

Go on. keep the good ideas coming matey


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Old 23rd April 2012, 02:28 PM   #214 (permalink)
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Got myself a 7/8-14 SAE tap the other day..with which I've tapped the top ports on the covers and test fitted the -10 fittings...


Turned out pretty well and exactly as I'd planned. Gave them both a bit of a clean up with the prssure washer and they came up really well. Also a few days back I had removed the internal baffle plates which were riveted down. Drilled the rivets out and tapped to take M5 bolts so getting them back on will be a dawdle..
On the left cover, you can see there was a small auxilliary outlet just above the hole for the -10 fitting.


Theres a barbed plastic fitting in there but I managed to machine a small barbed button fitting to blank it off with which I was quite proud of



Thats that problem solved anyway


Now in the process of trying to obtain some -16 to -10 reducers (as my RIPS catchtank uses -16 fittings!!) so I can fit it all together. Unfortunately these are proving rather hard to find. I see Earls do them but for what they are want, I feel, disproportionate cash for them. Might have a go at machining my own on the lathe!!!
I see that the crackle finish paint needs a minimum of 16deg air temp for application which is going to be a bit difficult at the moment. Its been average of 10-12 for the last month so were not quite there yet.


Car goes to Abbey on Wed.....excitements starting to build up

TT
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Old 23rd April 2012, 04:36 PM   #215 (permalink)
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On the left cover, you can see there was a small auxilliary outlet just above the hole for the -10 fitting.


Theres a barbed plastic fitting in there but I managed to machine a small barbed button fitting to blank it off with which I was quite proud of



Thats that problem solved anyway



TT
love that - don't suppose you fancy making another do you?
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Old 23rd April 2012, 04:56 PM   #216 (permalink)
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There's also actually a technical reason why some people use the RB25 or R31 covers- something to do with the breathers being in a better position at the front of the engine rather than the back.

That's about as far as my knowledge goes on that but I do remember a thread about it somewhere
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Old 23rd April 2012, 06:22 PM   #217 (permalink)
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love that - don't suppose you fancy making another do you?
Suppose I could. As long as youre not in any hurry..

Quote:
There's also actually a technical reason why some people use the RB25 or R31 covers- something to do with the breathers being in a better position at the front of the engine rather than the back.

That's about as far as my knowledge goes on that but I do remember a thread about it somewhere
Indeed. The RB25/31 covers DO have the breather ports way further forward which was the primary reason for buying them. I KNOW I could have fitted baffles (had already made up some Mines-type baffles out of aluminium) but I think the 25 covers just look a bit different too.
With the positioning of the breather ports and the std RB25 baffles, I cant see there being ANY issues with oil getting forced into the catchtank under hard acceleration AT ALL.
Once they're given a nice coat of red crackle, I think they'll look the bollox!!

TT
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Old 23rd April 2012, 06:25 PM   #218 (permalink)
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Yep, I think they look pretty cool under the bonnet myself. So the reason is to do with no oil going to the catch tank then?
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Old 23rd April 2012, 06:57 PM   #219 (permalink)
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Well, the RB26 covers have been known to allow oil to get chucked out the breathers despite the standard baffling hence why Mines went to the trouble of developing their modified baffles in the first place. I think the combination of having a fair bit of oil in the head (which the RB's are known for anyway), coupled with high rearward acceleration forces AND having the breather ports at the rear of the covers isnt a great starting place TBH.
Having the ports a good bit further forward, like the 25's covers have, pretty much solves the problem.

TT
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Old 24th April 2012, 12:27 AM   #220 (permalink)
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I had the covers on my old RB25 and you still get oil coming out even in that location but does make breather pipe routing neater. Are you planning on running the RB25 cambelt backplate and cover or leaving it all open ?

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