Thought it was about time I posted some pics of my GTR. Had it now for around 6 months so you could say I've been a bit lazy in the pic department :chuckle: :chuckle: .
Anyway, here goes....
Not very arty-fart but gives you the jist of how it looks. As you can see, I've removed the 'Skyline anniversary' sticker off the boot lid to make it look a bit cleaner
As far as the exterior goes, I only intend to add a Nismo boot lip and that will be it as I love the look of an R32 with N1 body 'kit'.
No underbonnet shots yet i'm afraid as I thought id wait until I get my Tomei Fuel rail and braided hoses fitted which will tart things up a bit :chuckle:
I will probably try and address that with the new ECU or I might just not bother!! From what I've seen so far of the PAS schematics, the offending item is a small solenoid mounted in the crossover pipe at the off-side front of the subframe. IIRC, with NO signal the solenoid fires out a pin which reduces the flow of fluid in the system. WITH a signal it removes the pin and allows full flow of fluid.....
Or at least thats my understanding of it from the short time spent looking at it.
Might be an option to unscrew it from its holder, remove/modify the pin and put it back. OR, as i say, get the ECU to output a signal to open the solenoid.
I have spoken to the guys at LINK about it, and they have said with a R33 electronic speedo sensor there is a speed in and out circuit on the ECU so they can program it to suit.
....you also might find without the factory speedo plugged in you won't get a speed reading out of the ECU, I'm of the understanding the speedo sends the signal to the ECU.
Factory speedo redundant with the Dash2. Will take a 'speed' reading straight from ECU which, in turn, will get get it from one of the rear wheel speed sensors (ABS ring).
Never been a massive fan of gearbox derived speed sensing, especially in modded/competition cars...once you start changing wheel/tyre sizes and diff ratio's it all goes to pot anyway. At least with direct wheel speed sensors you can get an accurate reading AND you can keep it accurate by updating the rolling radius should you change wheel/tyre.
I'm keen to connect all 4 wheel speed sensors which will not only give me an indication of speed but tell me other useful things like wheel slip etc. besides, the Race Technology Dash also uses a GPS sensor so you could use it to display speed that way if you wish...just like you can do with TomTom etc at the moment!!
Having some bother with the dash and logger....both worked fine out of the box but after reflash and sending them some custom screen configurations they have decided to play silly buggers. I suspect that there may be issues with the USB-Serial adapter im using (common with these items as they are sensitive to adapters using non-Prolific chipset) so in the process of sorting that out by adding a serial port to my PC.
Also got stuck into wiring some off-engine sensors such as fuel press/temp; oil press/temp; pre-intercooler temp; MAP sensor; ambient press sensor. Have bought some Deutsch DT connectors in 2-way and 8-way flavour which will allow me to wire the MAC boost solenoid and make custom coil wiring.
Also had some probs with the fuel pumps in that the LP pumps would work fine but the HP pumps wouldn't. I suspected that it was something to do with the relays...both were 70A Durite relays but 1 had a diode (the one feeding HP pumps). I have now swapped this out so both relays are the same and guess what.....both sets of pumps work fine now!!! I suspect I blew the diode or that it was faulty from new. Anyway...they work!
So, next on the list is to get the coil and injector wiring done and that will, essentially, be that. If everything goes to plan money-wise this month then I'll be in the position to order some new ID1000 injectors, Lab grade lambda sensor and my AMT crank trigger kit.
Then......ALL spare money can go into the kitty for Syvecs S8 purchase, install and mapping!!
Been working away over the past few nights making up a replacement coil loom. Removed the ignition amp connector from the end of the coil harness and replaced with an 8-way Deutsch connector I had available. I then used some 16AWG ETFE sheathed wire and ran 6 new lines into passengers footwell for subsequent connection to ECU. I protected the 6 wires with an initial covering of adhesive-lined heatshrink with a Raychem DR-25 outer covering......looks very professional if I do say so myself. Just shows I CAN do proper wiring jobs when I put my mind to it!!!
Then got about removing the stock injector wiring. As I will be using ID1000 injectors (for which I already have the connectors) I was always going to replace the wiring anyway. I set about removing the stock wires from the ECU end as well as tracing them back to the resistor pack (long gone!!). There's a fair amount of wiring there....
So, I noticed there are 2 gauges of wire used for the injectors, the thicker obviously for the power signal and the smaller being the ECU earthing signal. I intend to use 12AWG PVC sheathed wire for the new power signal and 18AWG for the ECU wires. Just need now to find the stock power wire from the fusible link and make a 6-way split to join with each individual injector power wire. I will then do the same job of covering in 2 layers of heatshrink for protection.
Nice work I have the same dash in one of my other cars. Do they do a serial data converter for the syvecs ecu? It allows you to display a list of ecu parameters on the dash2 and is all setup in the custom screen setup all easy peasey. The quality of the dash is really good worth the money they are.
I need to address my coil wiring, to remove the ignition amplifier do you just need to run r33 type coils?
Been busy again making up the new injector loom....
Again, utilised a 12-way Deutsch connector, a mixture of PVC and ETFE sheathed 16AWG wire and some of the great Raychem DR-25.
In the process of finding the stock power wire that feeds the injectors I removed the rest of the stock injector wiring that works its way around the front panel of the car.
Also of note is that I've purchased a new Turbosmart Race-Port BOV for a good price. Not on the list of things to buy this month but couldn't turn down the opportunity to save a few quid while it was there....
Bought another std plenum which I will modify to take the adapter stub for the BOV. Then I can just swap plenums over and voila!! :squintdan
Managed to answer a question I have been mulling over for a while now......keep handbrake or not.
Decision: Remove the handbrake :chuckle:
It had always been a point I had laboured over... If I junk the handbrake system I could have less complex rear bells made for my rear rotors BUT how would I secure the car on uneven ground after a heavy track session. Came to the conclusion that I could use chocks to stop the car from rolling and that it wouldn't be a problem.
Now I can get on with having some plain and simple bells made up for the rear rotors.
On another note, I decided that mounting the BOV on the plenum would not be too great an idea so I will fit it onto the charge pipe that resides on the drivers side...
Bought from an authorised Turbosmart distributor in the states so I can be assured its genuine!! It's smaller in the flesh than I'd anticipated but that's probably a good thing! However, I'm starting to reconsider mounting it on the plenum, just after the intercooler hose as this will keep vac lines to a minimum as well as keeping it away from any nasty water/FOD.
Going out to the garage in a mo so will have a mull over it and make a decision!!
Now have all sensors apart from Lambda and crank/cam wired and routed to the passengers footwell in readiness for the ECU. Once again, it seems that the list of jobs I can be getting on with is VERY small which means I must be doing something right :chuckle:
Seeing as its just after pay day I decided to go a little bit daft..
Bought 2 brake pressure sensors (one for front, one for rear) so I can log whats going on brake-wise. Will be useful to hone my master cylinder arrangement should I need to. Working on the premise that more information is a GOOD thing.
Working on that basis, I have the opportunity to buy some cheap suspension potentiometers so I can log suspension movement. This will be slightly more helpful in car setup but I have a feeling that the pots on offer may not be physically long enough. Should I not buy these, suspension pots are definitely on the list of nice-to-have's.
Also picked up a big K&N (new) at a very good price for when I fit the GT4094. Not really needed RIGHT this minute but sometimes you have to jump on stuff when the prices are good!!
Other things of note have been the installation and wiring of a water pressure sensor. Again, really going to town on the instrumentation side of things but I think this will pay HUGE dividends later on. Also removed ALL of the handbrake gubbins so no going back!! :chuckle:.
Feeling evermore positive about the whole thing again. Will probably get the ID1000's next month and get them in. Then just Lambda and crank sensors to get and install and then NOTHING!!!!.......just ECU to save for.!!
Got it at a very good price from Auber Instruments . Considering that I was looking at spending around £110 for an AEM 5-BAR sensor, this one was positively peanuts!!!
Also got around to modifying my rear brake line to accept a tee for the rear pressure sensor...
Plugged it with a bleed nipple as I'm still waiting on the sensors themselves. Already sorted out the connectors etc from RS components. As they are common Bosch sensors (pt no 0 265 005 303) getting the right connectors was dead easy as it tells you on the Bosch spec sheet :chuckle:
Also got around to tidying some wires and stuff in the back, behind the seats so looking a good deal better. I REALLY would like to take it away somewhere and have it all rewired properly in a motorsport fashion but my main priority is getting the bloody thing going first. Luckily there is a company quite close by whose wiring services I can call on when the time comes!
Yes indeed...the text does say its only a mock-up . I might push the boundaries somewhat with parts but even I'm not that cavalier :chuckle:
I'll be getting some bells custom made, hopefully in titanium for the rear. If I'm lucky I'll be able to use an off the shelf Wilwood bell for the fronts but TBH, this is looking increasingly unlikely...
The idea is to concentrate on getting the ECU bought and installed, run the car on track using the braking kit that's on it at the moment and then, once that's buggered, have the Wilwood stuff ready to chuck on and go...
BTW..I'll sell you my amazing 'genuine' Rays alloy octagonal brake bells for a Grand if you fancy!! :chuckle:
Received the two brake pressure sensors so plumbed them in...
Will be connecting these direct to the logger as the ECU doesn't need to see what's going on with the brakes :chuckle:. Will have the ability to call up the values on the dash should I need to but I can see this only being necessary for setup.
Not much going on this weekend so will probably lend a hand to my mate and his FRST.
Have been looking at suspension pots recently TBH (although I tend to get my stuff from M-cal)....some used ones came up recently but the seller has gone quiet .
I agree, steering angle is fundamental to analysis....I've got a good idea of how I would make a sensing system but I've not really devoted too much thought to it at the minute. Once I get the critical things out of the way I'll return to it. A rotary pot , a couple of gear wheels and a small toothed belt should do the trick
Probably getting a bit too carried away with all the data gathering....although I work on the premise that more data is better then no data. Will be pitot sensors next :chuckle:
This is the rotary pot I am using on mine, fits into the top of the steering rack but for proper data analysis of steering inputs and getting an overall picture of the handling of the car ie front to rear balance and how much correction is needed on entry mid corner and exit its a valuable tool.
I have also seen a geared rotary pot setup as below which would be a better option for the Skyline, just mount it below along the steering wheel column.
Creating custom math channels is tough, but when it all works its great fun! :chuckle:
Probably not. I removed it as it wasnt required and hacked all the mounting tabs/flanges off
Im sure i'll be able to whip up some sort of sensor come the time.
Bob - probably this time next year TBH....need to get a few grand together first for ECU, fitting and mapping. All this while I'm still channelling funds to a few other projects. . It WILL happen, just dependant on how quickly i can get the cash together...
Got home today to find a little box...well, not so little :chuckle:
Containing a K&N filter.....
Its a MONSTER!! I put it on the bonnet for a bit of context but even then it doesn't do it justice!. Its an RD-1460 and its certainly the biggest filter I saw in the catalogue I have!!
Bought it for such times when I convert to the GT4094. Got it VERY cheap considering it was brand spanking new and so couldn't pass it up. It'll stay all wrapped up and safe until its needed....whenever that'll be :chuckle:
Yeah, that's the sort of thing I had in mind. Have a Bosch Motorsport catalogue and have been eyeing up some suitable pots....
As the GTR column is sheathed I think it will be challenging to get a gear wheel slipped on. I reckon I may have to find a suitable sized split gear wheel and do something creative!!
Finally received the Samco Xtreme boost hoses (they are fantastic and MUCH stronger/lighter than the std range). I mocked up the piping and decided where I would put the temp sensor.....
Will take that one and the dump valve pipe away to get the bosses TIG'ed on and get the pipes back in.
Discovered a rather annoying electrical issue yesterday...
1. it seems that some things are getting voltage despite the Cartek isolator being 'off' :bawling:
2. When pulling the main beam stalk, the lights light VERY slowly and all hell breaks loose with other electrics. Could be the battery is low/shot :bawling:
Getting fed up with electrical gremlins to the point where I'm SERIOUSLY considering ripping out ALL the std wiring and getting it done to motorsport standard by my local auto elec guru's. It isn't all that dear and would stop me from wanting to pour petrol on the car and light it :nervous:
OTHER than that, all is good and coming on nicely..
Looking good. What hard pipes are they that you are using?
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