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My R32 GTR pics

307K views 854 replies 142 participants last post by  GT-R David 
#1 ·
Thought it was about time I posted some pics of my GTR. Had it now for around 6 months so you could say I've been a bit lazy in the pic department :chuckle: :chuckle: .
Anyway, here goes....






Not very arty-fart but gives you the jist of how it looks. As you can see, I've removed the 'Skyline anniversary' sticker off the boot lid to make it look a bit cleaner
As far as the exterior goes, I only intend to add a Nismo boot lip and that will be it as I love the look of an R32 with N1 body 'kit'.

No underbonnet shots yet i'm afraid as I thought id wait until I get my Tomei Fuel rail and braided hoses fitted which will tart things up a bit :chuckle:

TT
 
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#459 ·
Plywood, 5 or 6mm IIRC sealed both sides with polyester resin. Turned out really well. Had toyed with making one from carbon with a coremat core and had bought the materials. Decided to go plywood at the last minute but might get around to making up that carbon one eventually...

TT
 
#460 ·
Picked up a nice single piece prop today from Nat (Natbrat)...nice meeting you BTW!!.


(Pic from Nat's own thread)

I will hopefully get this popped on tomorrow and see what's what! Depending on time I may also wire in my 'leccy fan and get that job finished.

TT
 
#461 ·
Managed to swap the prop over yesterday...
What should have been a half hour job turned into a couple of hours due to the unwillingness of the gearbox output flange bolts to want to come off. Also, as I thought it would be a simple job I only had the car elevated at the rear which didnt exactly give me shedloads of space. Anyway...despite this its now on!!

Also took the time to wire in the relay for the electric fan. Just need to find a suitable feed and tidy the control side wiring.

TT
 
#462 ·
Bought one of these in the end.....



to replace the round collector that I have on the fuel cooler inlet already. This will be FAR better at scooping air AND be a bit lower profile as well (but not too low-pro as it would end up collecting NO air at all!!).


TT
 
#463 ·
Some reasonably positive news in the fact that I may have identified the source of my electrical gremlins!!!
Upon looking at the instructions of my Cartek battery isolator it seems I may have inadvertently wired it incorrectly :nervous:

Didn't have time to fully investigate and rectify the issue but I'm reasonably confident that this is the problem.

Depending on time tonight, I may go out and have a stab at it :D

TT
 
#465 ·
So, sorted what I believe to be the wiring problem but a bloody flat battery stopped me from testing it!! :bawling:. I think it SHOULD be good!.

On another topic I managed to get the fuel cooler scoop finished..well, almost..just waiting on a delivery of 7/16 UNF nuts!!

First off, got some stainless mesh from Inoxia_ltd on Ebay. Used them before and would thoroughly recommend them if you need mesh. Cut out a piece to fit nicely over the hole....


Then, a bit of 90mm heatshrink to attach it to the feed pipe....


And, voila!!..



A good outcome and, in hindsight, better than the bellmouth I had on it before! The little tab I made (top pic) secures underneath the car on to one of the crotch strap eyelet bolts hence the need for a 7/16 UNF nut to hold it on (and the molegrips as a temp measure in pic 3 :chuckle:)

Also got a bit of other wiring done and tidied so things are back to looking decent again :D

Good evenings venture into the garage....

TT
 
#466 ·
I Think a coolingduct like the one from a Citroën jumpy would have been a lot easier.

Number 11 on the attached picture is ducting, 10 is the cooler.

You current setup looks like ist hanging a bit low.
 

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#467 · (Edited)
No idea what a Citroen Jumpy is but thanks for the suggestion...

Given the materials and parts I had to hand at the time I think its turned out alright but I appreciate there may be better solutions out there.

The cooler, inlet duct and hose sit a fair bit higher than the exhaust which may not be apparent from the pic. The exhaust will detach before the cooler (hopefully!! :chuckle:)

TT
 
#470 ·
LOL, no!

Car wont be going anywhere until late summer time!

TT
 
#472 · (Edited)
I sincerely hope so! Its all home-made with no tuner involvement (apart from the Abbey dyno sessions!) so the buck stops with me!! If the work's shoddy then I only have myself to bame LOL,,

Its been off the road for longer than I had planned and needs an ECU (Syvecs S8) to get it useable again. Aiming for an Aug/Sept debut but, as I have more than a few money pits at the moment all vying for a slice of the financial pie, it may yet run into next year......hopefully not though!!

Thanks for the kind words. Good to know at least someone is reading the nonsense I post up :chuckle:

TT
 
#476 · (Edited)
Err...thats called R&D!! All manufacturers do it and its not as if they were intended for actual use!!

Anyway, they were octagonal and no self tappers were anywhere near them!

TT
 
#478 ·
This weekend's garage shenanigans saw a little bit of progress but not loads....

Decided to remove the HICAS ECU and all its wiring. Physically removing the ECU was the easy bit....the wiring more of a buggeration. Decided to do it properly rather than just cut and insulate individual bits of wire (as I have been known to do sometimes!! :chuckle:). Had to remove all of the tape I had wrapped the front/rear loom in and additionally, remove the drivers seat....AGAIN!!! :mad:

Stripped all the HICAS wiring all the way to the 2 large multiplugs up behind the fusebox. Took them both apart and removed the offending pins as anything less would be a half-job!! Left the feed from HICAS ECU to PAS solenoid for the meantime until I decide what to do with it! Options are....
1. Remove the solenoid and wiring and plug it.
2. Wire the feed into my ECU and provide it with an identical feed that it would have received from the HICAS ECU.

I need to get my head around what signal the solenoid receives before I can make a judgement i.e a fixed voltage for simple on/off operation OR a variable voltage for a more linear operation????

The good news is that all wiring from the seats BACKWARDS is done and dusted so I can get it re-wrapped and secured. The seats-forward wiring is still ongoing albeit with not much left to do other than remove a few things and check it over.

Had also intended to fit a small N1-style splash plate to the inside of the gear lever assembly. Thought this would be a simple job and one that could be done through the gear lever aperture without fuss but it seems that I will have to lower the rear of the box in order to access the frontmost two bolts holding the cover plate on :rolleyes::rolleyes:

Nothing is ever easy on this car!!!!

:confused:



TT
 
#480 ·
Thanks..

Car came off the road in spring 2009 so coming up for 5 years of no usage...I must admit to falling into the time old trap of project scope creep. I've been there before and swore I wouldn't succumb again. Just demonstrates that even having clear vision and willpower you can get a bit sidetracked.

Biggest bit of 'scope creep' was deciding to ditch the PFC and MAF's and go for a more powerful and capable ECU. This in itself necessitated gathering extra sensors and things which all equates to cost which equates to added time spent in limbo...

On the plus side, all the sensors and stuff have now been purchased and its only the ECU and mapping that need money flung at them. All things being equal, I should have the funds to get ECU done and dusted by late August...

With holidays and other projects to fund, gathering the necessary funds was always going to take a while!!!


TT
 
#481 ·
i know what it feel to have your car off the road for 5 year... i'm in the same boat has you. Your start the project with and idea and after the plan get bigger and bigger and tahn some unplanned thing happen in the life so the project take even more time to realise. But after all that time and effort , i can't imagine how good i'm gonna feel to drive my car again!

Nice car, nice projects , keep it up!


Chris
 
#482 ·
Just a small thing but something that had been niggling me for a while...

Decided to remove the pipe from right hand master cylinder to union and replace with a small bit of hose...



The pipe was not sitting square in the pipe ends and so was leaking slightly. This solves the problem..

TT
 
#485 ·
Sure is....Bosch.

Have one on the rear line too!!:D


TT
 
#489 ·
Just used M10 Tee-pieces as you can see in the pic. Picked up the sensors for about £20 a pop from Ebay. Think they're off some Merc or Audi or summat like that!!! If I have still got the info, I'll dig out the Bosch part numbers!!


TT
 
#488 ·
#491 ·
Not really considered how to fit to a std setup but it wouldn't be hard. You'd just need to cut into both your lines front and rear and install a tee-piece like mine. Obviously you'd need to pick fittings (your choice whether to go metric or imp....M10 or 3/8") and reflare the ends appropriately (single or double flare depending on your tee-piece as not all take a single flared end!! Then fit the sensors and then bleed the system.

I'd take a stab at suggesting you should fit the sensors PRIOR to the ABS pump but then, as I say, I havent really considered a std setup....

TT
 
#492 ·
Bosch sensors (pt no 0 265 005 303) getting the right connectors was dead easy as it tells you on the Bosch spec sheet
In case you are interested...

TT
 
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