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My R32 GTR pics

307K views 854 replies 142 participants last post by  GT-R David 
#1 ·
Thought it was about time I posted some pics of my GTR. Had it now for around 6 months so you could say I've been a bit lazy in the pic department :chuckle: :chuckle: .
Anyway, here goes....






Not very arty-fart but gives you the jist of how it looks. As you can see, I've removed the 'Skyline anniversary' sticker off the boot lid to make it look a bit cleaner
As far as the exterior goes, I only intend to add a Nismo boot lip and that will be it as I love the look of an R32 with N1 body 'kit'.

No underbonnet shots yet i'm afraid as I thought id wait until I get my Tomei Fuel rail and braided hoses fitted which will tart things up a bit :chuckle:

TT
 
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#531 ·
Well, sent off my plenum and Ti decat to get some bosses (which I sourced myself) welded on..... A very reasonable ÂŁ40 later I have these..







VERY happy with the quality of the work. Will get the decat on ASAP. The plenum will need a sanding to true-out the mating face of the half in the pic. Once that is done I'll chuck it on. Need a big old bit of sandpaper/wet&dry first though!!


TT
 
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#534 ·
Got in from work and felt the need to get the decat on :chuckle:....



Will keep the lambda off until nearer mapping time. Used the bung off the old decat so no creepy-crawlies can use it as a squat :chuckle:


TT
 
#535 ·
Well, some progress. Albeit not much :chuckle:

Removed the water/meth tank so that I could install the float switch I had bought. I want the ECU to be able to 'see' when the level gets low and maybe DO something about it. That might be nothing more than warn me or I might set a strategy to automatically knock the map back to 'non-meth'. I'll have a think about it....
Oddly enough the float switch hole is a good bit up the tank side which means there's a fair bit of fluid left when the switch trips. When I have some time, I'll fill the tank to the 'LOW' level I have marked (when the switch trips), start the pump and then time how long it takes to get from 'LOW' to empty. I can then perhaps set a delay in switching to non-meth map if I go down the auto route!



You can just make out the black line I drew which shows the 'LOW' level.

How do you like my new emission reduction device?? I'm sure the Polar Bears and penguin's will be happy!!! :chuckle:




On a more positive note, I have put a deposit down on a Motec PDM30 Power Distribution Module.



I have been after one for AGES and have bitten the bullet. After all the wiring fiasco I have had with this car, the PDM will allow me to effectively rip EVERYTHING out and wire from scratch through the PDM. The Syvecs S8 ECU I am planning to use can communicate with it via CAN so it should be able to 'see' anything the ECU can see. If you have never heard of these devices before then I urge you to go to the Motec site and have a read. The things that PDM's can do is staggering!! It makes fault diagnosis dead easy, allows you to set strategies for any component, allows you to use CAN keypads etc. The functionality is immense and I'm only scratching the surface TBH

I'm SOOO happy that this came up when it did!. However, I will probably end up getting it wired up professionally with decent Raychem wire so that the wiring is NEVER an issue again!. I'm sure it'll cost a bit but I'd rather have it done properly as wiring ain't my strong point. :eek:


TT
 
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#536 ·
I can barely read about the stuff you're doing - nevermind attempt to do it! :D

Now the weather is starting to improve the i'll start doing what i can to my 6. Kinda dreading it. As i don't want to be like the kid in my street - with a car on supports for 2 years and it going nowhere fast!
 
#537 · (Edited)
managed to get my Greddy-copy plenum sorted out. Spent a while hand-sanding the chamber half on the bench with sandpaper!! It was out by a fair bit, thankfully straight as a die now :).

However, went to have a go at putting it on and it seems that it now fouls on the air chamber which sits underneath. Decided to bite the bullet and remove it all while I'm there and also sort out some wiring in preparation for PDM.

How it looked originally.....


A bit of a mess by all accounts!

Then got the upper air chamber off and in the vice....


After a bit of twisting the pipes easily came out....

Voila!!!!....


Had a -8 tap and some -10 bungs so set about drilling and tapping and the end result is...


Already removed air chamber, AAC and cold start device and it looks MUCH cleaner already!! You'll notice that some of the holes in the chamber have a little corrosion. On the other half still on the car there are some o-rings of which around half had seen better days. These were all replaced so glad I got around to doing this...

I'm working this afternoon so will get set about sorting the rest over the weekend I reckon.



TT
 
#539 ·
No sorry, bought it from someone on the forum....


TT
 
#541 ·
Hopefully tail end of June/early July. Have a Motec PDM to get installed before ECU install so thongs may slip a little..

TT
 
#544 ·
Been busy again today. Before I get into that though I forgot to put up a couple of pics from last time showing how I drilled and tapped the upper air chamber to take a 1/8NPT 6mm hose barb. This will allow me to get a better quality of fitting of the hose to MAP sensor.





A LOT better than the stupid 3mm tube that was protruding out of there in the first place!!!

So, today's effort was primarily around wiring......or rather REMOVING wiring :). There's now not a single bit of OEM wiring ANYWHERE on the car (other than a tiny bit into the 4WD controller). Looks VERY tidy :chuckle:.....





Fuse box and large multiplug gone.....


And underbonnet fuse/relay block too.....



I HAD intended to try and be sympathetic while removing the looms in order to sell on as one of the engine harnesses was new and the rest wasn't actually in bad nick. However, got fed up with that really quickly and set about hacking it all to bits :eek::eek::chuckle:. Even the wings were off to get to the looms in the front arches!!!

Behold......



To be fair, that's probably a THIRD of what I've removed!!. That was just a little pile I snapped for effect :chuckle:. The weight of even that little pile was eyebrow-raising!!

Next step will be to remove the fuel pump wiring that I redid a while ago. The ONLY thing I will send the car away with wiring-wise for PDM fitting will be the on-engine stuff like engine sensors and injector wiring.....EVERYTHING else will be rewired.
I reckon I must have saved a good few kilos ripping all the OEM wiring out and even with the install of the PDM and it's associated wiring I'd expect to see a pretty healthy net weight saving....



TT
 
#545 ·
So I was out tonight doing car stuff and made the decision to go 'all out' and remove the std modine unit (std oil cooler) and replace with a stud so I can bolt my take-off plate direct to block.



Will need to redo oil cooler plumbing anyway so saw this as an opportunity to get even more stuff out the way. Will also take the time to rationalise all the water/vac piping in there too!! I'll spend some time over weekend getting it all prepped.
Just need to be clear on what some of the water fittings on block are and general water flow before I start hacking away :chuckle:


TT
 
#547 ·
Thanks for the kind words...It's been a labour of love :chuckle:

TT
 
#548 ·
Spent a bit of time today sorting a few jobs out.....

Firstly, removed the 2 pies that sit directly behind the cam cover. It was originally for the charcoal canister but it's been redundant and agitating for ages now. So, 1 down....

Next was the plumbing on the inlet side under plenum. After a bit of enlightenment (thanks TABZ & Andy!!) on another, related, thread, I decided to go with this....



Basically reused a few hoses I had lying around to make this up. Allows me to remove all the nonsense under plenum but keep the turbo water return via the rear.

Also decided to remove 1BAR MAP sensor as, in all fairness, I wont be needing it. It was a brand new GM unit and you'll see it in the 'for sale' section soon.
Lastly, I took it upon myself to move my MAC boost solenoid from it's current turret position on the O/S inner wing up to the bulkhead area in order to keep hose runs as short as practical.


Doesnt sound like much but it took a fair bit of time, especially when you consider I had to remove the N/S wing to get the barometric MAP sensor out!!!


TT
 
#550 ·
Nothing crazy....

Have a GT4094r to go on at some point after the car has been put back together and shaken down for a bit. Probably looking at around 700hp but I'm mostly concerned about extracting the maximum response from the engine as possible. I'm sure cams will be the next big engine purchase in order to realise this..

Never been on any Fiat forums so probably someone else using that moniker. Only really use Passionford / Ten Tenths Motorsport and Turbosport forums with that username.


TT
 
#551 ·
'Only' 700bhp then! Lol

I'm looking at the .32 GTR myself. The 540bhp one in classifieds in particular. Is single turbo the way to go to get to that kind of power easily?

I'm yet to see a big power twin! Supra seem the same!

I'm new to the jap tuning and coming from V8's and a supercharged fiberglass bean tin it's all strange to me! Lol
 
#552 ·
LOL, 700 isnt particularly high in the Skyline world TBH....

The jury's out on whether twins or a single is the way forward. There was a HUGE thread debating the pro's and con's of both and I dont believe there was an outright winner.....I think it's very much 'horses for courses..'.
Personally, changing to a single will be more beneficial for me in terms of system simplicity and ease of turbo swap should I need/want to!! With the modern singles such as Borg Warner EFR and Garrett GTX series turbos, the perceived negatives i.e. lack of response over twins really goes out the door IMHO!!


TT
 
#553 · (Edited)
Well,a good and a not-so-good day today. Before I get to that just a couple of pics of other things....

Firstly, the genuine Nissan oil filter stud I got off Ebay for ÂŁ12 delivered.....



Cheaper than the Raw Brokerage item and a genuine part (Personally, I'm not fussed about that).

So, fitted stud and got take-off plate reinstalled...



Looks MUCH better without modine unit and simplifies things a LOT!.

Also took the time to redo the rear ARB links I made a while back. Original ones looked like this.....



New item does away with the turnbuckle and makes use of a male, threaded rod end which screws straight into one of the female ones (obtained once again from McGill Motorsports up near my hometown in Scotland. HIGHLY recommended for rod ends and odds and sods...)



A good bit shorter which moves the ARB back to a more horizontal stance (i.e. more efficient!!)



One job that was always on the list was to make up some solid engine mounts. Bought the block of material AGES ago and thought I'd better get on with it....:chuckle:. So, after cutting the prescribed amount of block...



and doing a bit of drilling....



and tapping I came up with this....



Not a bad effort if I do say so myself. Just to be difficult the threaded parts are offset from each other so not just a case of using 1 bit of threaded rod for both!. Chucked the O/S one on....



and Robert's your Mothers brother :chuckle:. Went to start on the N/S.....

What an utter nightmare to get the engine mount off!!! :mad:. I got 3 of the bolts out the mounting as well as the nuts on top/bottom of mounting block but the last one (lower rear) eluded me in the time I had. It's right underneath the front turbo and in amongst the oil/water lines so access is VERY limited. Nevertheless I'm sure I can get it off without drastic parts removal and will go and sort it out over the weekend.



TT
 
#555 ·
Love your hands on approach to things, a man after my own heart, but please do me a favour, take a file to the edges of the new mounts, it's just sent a shiver down my spine and made my nuts shrink thinking how easy you'll cut your hand the next time your working in that area.

That said, I'm off to look at McGill motorsports web sight.

Kev.
 
#556 ·
LOL, well spotted Kev...

I usually round off corners when I'm fabricating or making stuff. The O/S mount isn't tightened down yet so will take it off and sort the corners out :)


TT
 
#557 ·
So, after LOADS of faffing about with the N/S mount I eventually managed to get it done!! One casualty was the front turbo oil return which I had to remove to get enough space to get the new mount in. I didnt realise at the time that it wouldnt go back on AFTER the mount was put in place due to the kink in the tube!
As luck would have it, i had a 3/4 BSP to AN-10 fitting lying around (as you do..!!!) and scsrewed that into the block. I made up a small bit of AN-10 pipe with a fitting and coupled that, via a bit of hose to the original turbo drain.....

Next job was to make up a dummy 9V battery for my Peltor FMT-120 intercom. The idea behind this was so that I could utilise a 9V battery terminal clip to touch the contacts in order to power it via PDM. I'll get some pics up soon to illustrate what I'm blithering on about....

:D

Next thing on the list is to make up a replacement brake line from rear brake pressure sensor to rear floor. I've never been happy with it and am in the frame of mind to change it so why not..?


TT

TT
 
#558 · (Edited)
Been busy making up some stuff...

Decided to relocate the remote oil filter assembly and thermostat. It was always getting in the way of the boost pipes to plenum and had to change, so.......

I moved the filter down by the O/S chassis rail...


This will also make oil filter changes easier.

Having done this I then had to remake the sensor loom as the lengths were tailored for the old position. I made up a loom and added some identifiers using my mates Dymo and some clear heatshrink...



Looks REALLY good with the labels and being fully covered in heatshrink..


TT
 
#562 ·
Sounds like a great plan, I have to say that his use of the Dymo is very stylish and simple. But I can confirm it will stick there for a long time!

If you do run into problems or have questions about the product and what might work best for you then please do not hesitate to contact us and we will be happy to help!

Reach us on:
GB: 020 3564 83 54 (Monday to Friday: 9am - 5pm)
IE: 015 17 18 56 (Monday to Friday: 9am - 5pm)

Twitter: @DymoSupport

With best regards,
Jesper K
DYMOSupport
 
#560 ·
Just get yourself some clear heatshrink of an appropriate diameter to go over it and Bob's your uncle. It's a little touch that a lot of the professional harness makers use.....

Looks very 'Motorsport' :chuckle:


TT
 
#564 ·
Well, been getting some stuff done....

Firstly, received the Motec PDM30 that I bought of Conrad (Many thanks Conrad!!)....



It's a great bit of kit and something I've been after for a while to eliminate all my electrical woes!!. Will get it mounted tomorrow! I'm mounting it on a heatsink just to eliminate any potential heat issues before they arise!

Also, over the past little while I've been replumbing my oil cooler and stat. I've never been a fan of the way it i did it originally but I was constrained at the time by the fittings and hose lengths that I got with it. Having to sort out my boost pipe plumbing from intercooler to new plenum has prompted me to sort it out once and for all...







And a gratuitous engine bay shot...(without plenum!).



Will no doubt have more to show tomorrow after a few hours spent in garage :D.


TT
 
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