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My R32 GTR pics

307K views 854 replies 142 participants last post by  GT-R David 
#1 ·
Thought it was about time I posted some pics of my GTR. Had it now for around 6 months so you could say I've been a bit lazy in the pic department :chuckle: :chuckle: .
Anyway, here goes....






Not very arty-fart but gives you the jist of how it looks. As you can see, I've removed the 'Skyline anniversary' sticker off the boot lid to make it look a bit cleaner
As far as the exterior goes, I only intend to add a Nismo boot lip and that will be it as I love the look of an R32 with N1 body 'kit'.

No underbonnet shots yet i'm afraid as I thought id wait until I get my Tomei Fuel rail and braided hoses fitted which will tart things up a bit :chuckle:

TT
 
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#747 ·
Yep nice one my link runs the mac boost solenoid too so it governs the boost and wide band feedback. Also has some small features plugged in like a flashing ecu light that let's you know the iat is hot as a result of heat soak when sat still after a hard drive. Nice little thing to have really.

Had no idea you can run stuff like that with the PDM that sounds superb! No fuses or relays wow! Excellent choice of mod :D

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk
 
#748 · (Edited)
Finally finished the boost plumbing.....




Should hopefully do the job. All fittings threadlocked to avoid any mishaps....


Really, this is the last of the 'mechanical' jobs (not counting the refit of the refurbed dampers as thats an insignificant job). The car could realistically get taken for mapping now. However, as said, I'm going to mothball it until spring.

Just need to finish some ECU and dash programming ...


:)



TT
 
#750 ·
Ta. Thought I'd better get my finger out after finding the date on the last MOT!!!! :eek::eek:


:chuckle:


TT
 
#753 ·
Thanks!!

All the mechanical stuff done so I'm very pleased. Been trying to get some things squared away with the PDM. Got my hazards to work which, while it sounds easy, anyone whose worked with Motec PDM's will appreciate it ain't that straightforward. It isn't just a case of 'pressing this button does this....'
It kind of is but there are functions to write and a load of 'true' 'false' nonsense to contend with. So, saying that I have finished the hazards represents a major milestone....well, for me anyway!!

The bigger headache is trying to get the bloody wipers to park!!!! Been at this now for AGES and still no joy!! It's REALLY starting to piss me off and that's WITH the manual, forum and a bit of common(ish) sense from me.

*sigh*



TT
 
#755 ·
Hi Rob!
Thankfully all my wiring is bespoke and simple so no problems trying to integrate factory looms etc for me!!
My wipers work i.e. on/off but I just need to sort out the park function. Last night I looked on the Motec forum and found some suggestions so will give these a go later hopefully!



TT
 
#756 ·
Can this be of any help?
single switch on wipers - Hardtuned.net
Chassis Wiring help - wipers - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

Don't like the factory loom, as it has too much unnecessary stuff on it and that's why 98% of it will be ditched for me. Also I would like to have them positioned differently and have them go into the engine bay in a different spot as it is annoying to take off the fenders every single time I need to put in the new cables. And also makes it easier to go for a stealth look :)

Cheers!
 
#757 ·
Thanks Rob but unfortunately my problem is more Motec specific rather than issues with the OEM setup. Thanks for the thought anyway!!

I have had a bit more thought on it earlier this afternoon and MAY have an answer. If not, the Motec guy's are on it so help should be forthcoming!

:)

More worryingly, I spun the engine over for a bit to build oil pressure. I disconnected the turbo oil feed as a method of observing oil supply. After a good bit of cranking, no oil was seen!!. I put an oil filter in the line between block fitting and turbo and I suspect this might be the culprit. I shall investigate tomorrow..


TT
 
#759 ·
Ah, okay, hope motec guys sort it out for you really quickly.
Just one question, did You have a look at the current draw from the attesa pump? Would be interested to know how much current it uses for the first startup. Ofcourse, it would be interesting to know the current during full pressure buildup as well, but I guess this will take longer to find out.

Good luck :)

Cheers,
RoB
 
#761 · (Edited)
Been a bit quiet of late but not been lazy....

Managed to secure a Quaife ATB front diff which I'll build into my spare sump with 4.4 CWP....



Also have the rear Nismo diff with 4.4 CWP. Managed to find somewhere reasonably local to set them up so may get these on the car sooner rather than later!!

Also refitted the 12-way calibration switch....



I had this initially on a centre console but removed it as I wasn't sure if the Motec ECU supported switching maps. Turns out it does so positioned it up by the dash for easier switching. Also got it configured the Motec software.


Had the front St Boeso struts refurbed by AST (which I got for a song ages ago!!). Just about to send the rears off for the same treatment so all will be good there!

Car is pretty much ready for mapping and have been in touch with Mark Harrison at Owen Developments (who I'll be using to map car) who has helped guide me on a few Motec setup issues I've been having.....

Speaking of which, that's pretty much what I've been spending the last couple of months on, the Motec software for ECU and PDM getting all the settings and things tweaked and checked. They really are phenomenal bits of kit!!

Still need to address the 4WD wiring as there's just something not quite right there. I'm sure it's just a simple wiring issue so don't expect it to be too difficult to sort....


More soon....



TT
 
#762 · (Edited)
So.

Picked up my new quaife ATB front diff....



Wasted no time in getting the crownwheel bolted on and it all put back into the housing. The setup seems to be just about right so I might not bother getting it looked at. Still need to get the rear set up so it'll be a while before they get fitted to the car.
In all fairness, I'm interested to feel the difference between the std 4.11 ratios and the 4.4 so I'll probably wait a while until the car's had a couple of outings before swapping them out.

Just want to say a big thank you to Jimboj for being so accommodating with the purchase of the diff. Top bloke!!!

TT
 
#764 ·
Yes mate :p. Best not to rush these things!!


:chuckle:


TT
 
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#765 · (Edited)
Been getting these odd waves of motivation lately...:chuckle:

Got the Tomei sump baffle (which I bought ages ago!) installed into the spare sump...





I reckon that I'm going to actually fit this (along with the rear diff) sooner rather than later so getting it all prepped. Also dug out the OSG R4C clutch that I have lying around and gave that a good old clean and measure of the plates. They're all arounf the 4.9mm mark so I reckon that they'll be OK for the torque level I'll be aiming for initally. Probably going to fire that on soon as well which kinda works out fine if I do it at the same time as swapping out the sump.

In another bout of insanity, I decided to rip the cams out....



Who needs cams anyway!!!?? :chuckle: :chuckle:

Especially when I have some Grex 264/9.7mm cams lying around again, which I bought ages ago!!

Would have had it all back together but the cam seals are pretty brittle so I'll take the opportunity to replace them.

More soon!!!


TT
 
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#768 ·
Hey Scotty, if you bought the tomei sump baffles used you may not be aware you need to drill the drain holes out to a larger diameter than stock to allow better return flow.
A nice long 5 mm drill bit does the job nicely but make sure you keep it in line of course with the old holes.
:thumbsup:
Bobster
 
#770 · (Edited)
Thanks Bob. Did this a while back. Thankfully, although second-hand, the baffle was new and came with fixings and instructions. Even though I can't read Japanese it's pretty clear that the holes need to be drilled.

IIRC, I used a 6mm drill just to "help things along" :chuckle::chuckle:


You got any tips on changing sump in-car..??


TT
 
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#771 ·
Hey Scott,
I thought you'd have done it, it's just a bugger if you hadn't and it was back in the car!
Yeah I'll post one I've had my tea!
Done it quite a few times now.
:)
Bob
 
#772 ·
Good lad!!

:thumbsup::thumbsup:


TT
 
#777 ·
You sent me a PM a while back saying that the pump pressure is released by the solenoid which acts on an actuating piston...??

I think I'm just needing to know what I connect the solenoid wiring to? As you know I have no std ATTESA controller and am using an ETS-Pro and powering the pump etc by Motec PDM.

I'm now getting the pump to consistently pressurise the system to the switch pressure which is good. Now, I'm not sure whether the ETS will control the solenoid directly or whether something else needs to be done.

Looking at my (rather scruffy) wiring diagram, it looks like the pump and solenoid get +12V but clearly I'm missing something. Knowing me, it'll be something stupid!!

TT
 
#780 ·
Nah. Pump has +12V and primes nicely up to pressure switch. When switch trips to a low(er) pressure scenario, the pump triggers to pressurise it back up to switch triggering point. That side of things is fine.

Just been browsing the workshop wiring diagram and they use descriptions like:-
  • ETS oil pressure unit
  • ETS Motor
  • ETS Actuator

All rather confusing.....

Having had another quick look at the ETS-pro diagram I think I may have been seeing a problem where there is none...it says...
The controller takes care of power and ground internally so there is no need to connect either of these wires to ground or power
OOps.... :chairshot:

Oh well, (non)problem solved!!

:chuckle::chuckle::chuckle:

Sometime's I amaze myself with ineptness.....



TT
 
#779 ·
Hmmm...right!!

Looking at this...


It seems that only the pump gets +12V and the ETS takes care of PWM'ing the solenoid!? Is that right?

If that's the case then I reckon my current wiring (minus +12V to solenoid from PDM) is correct !!


TT
 
#782 ·
LOL..yes, amazing!! What a nobber......!

Just glad I've managed to fathom it out as it was causing me some serious headache. Now I can move onto other things....


TT
 
#790 ·
Re: Tomei Sump Baffle
If you are looking to run anything better than a set of worn road tyres on the track I would be upgrading the sump size.....I foresee run bearings in your future otherwise
 
#791 ·
Hi Chris.
Will be using the same Falkens that were on it when I took it off the road. They should be suitably rubbish :chuckle:
If they do produce more grip than expected then I'll just have to get that RIPS forged RB30 bottom end that I have on the 'final spec' list!!

:D:D


TT
 
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