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Old 14th October 2009, 05:51 PM   #81 (permalink)
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Well, been busy of late.
Bought some DW polybushes to go on the hub ends of the rear upper camber arms and traction rods..



these go here....



and are MUCH less compliant than the std items. Also look good to and were dead easy to fit.
Also received my carbon bootlid last night so was out this afternoon fitting it. Its a Nur motorsport item apparently and its just a skin with no internals so its really light (all of 3.5Kgs according to the bathroom scales INCLUDING 4 aerocatches!!). Held on by 4 aerocatches so it aint going anywhere. You can just about make then out in the pic...



Fits rather well. I then swapped over my rear wing to get the full carbon effect




I must admit that the difference between std lid+wing and carbon lid+wig is HUGE. I havent weighed the std bootlid but its got to be a good 6-7Kgs WITHOUT std spoiler. Obviously I have removed all the original boot hinges etc so theres a bit lost there too!!

Next job is to fit the DW lower rear arms I bought but this is proving a bit problematic. It seems that whoever last tightened up the rear hub nuts NEVER wanted them to come off again and its causing me grief!! I have used my breaker bar with an EXTRA 1.5M of leverage and still no joy. The fact that the whole wheel/hub assy is off the subframe doesnt help as I've nothing to lever against. I have decided to refit the whole back end and use the weight of the car to assist me.
So, just need to get a high capacity rear diff cover ordered and some chassis to subframe spacers made up. Hopefully I'll make some more progress soon.....
Happy with the progress I made today and the difference in the look of the car is tremendous. Cars looking like its having some sort of carbon-fest going on Not really much more carbon I can feasibly purchase other than a set of doors (a road I have decided NOT to go down. Fibreglass will do just fine ).

TT
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Old 14th October 2009, 06:10 PM   #82 (permalink)
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Nicely done Scott can we see the inside and how the Areocatches pins are fixed to the body please?
Is the single skin carbon boot ok to support the wing and all the downforce?
Dont you need some reinforcement inside?
Just a thought.

bob
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Old 14th October 2009, 07:28 PM   #83 (permalink)
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Well mate, I'll get some pics up for you tomorrow . You ARE demanding

To be fair I think the lid looks man enough to support the extra downforce of the wing but I am going to get myself some mild steel pipe, with a bore just big enough so that the wing mount bolts underneath the lid slip in. I will carry the pipe to the boot floor where I will weld them to a frame. I reckon the weight penalty will be small but any downforce the wing produces will act DIRECTLY on the shell without hinderance or fearthat the wing will come through the boot...which would be BAD

As for the aerocatches, I went and bought 2 bonnet pin kits (just for the 4 posts!) and, after dummy fitting the lid and marking the positions, drilled and fitted the posts. Lets just say that personally I wouldnt have mounted the rear catches where they are but hey, its 2nd hand albeit never used. Its done and I'm 100% happy with the lid but I will have to revisit the mounts at a later date as they require alignment by hand when fitting the lid and not a true hands-off, slap-the-lid-on-without-looking kind of fitment (yet).

TT
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Old 14th October 2009, 07:28 PM   #84 (permalink)
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Next job is to fit the DW lower rear arms I bought but this is proving a bit problematic. It seems that whoever last tightened up the rear hub nuts NEVER wanted them to come off again and its causing me grief!! I have used my breaker bar with an EXTRA 1.5M of leverage and still no joy. The fact that the whole wheel/hub assy is off the subframe doesnt help as I've nothing to lever against. I have decided to refit the whole back end and use the weight of the car to assist me.

TT
Have you tried removing the old lower arms and fitting the new ones with the hubs & shafts in place? I did mine with the hubs off the car, but it may be possible in situ...
Failing that, have you tried you local garage? They may be able to free the hub nuts with an impact gun to save you having to re-fit everything.
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Old 14th October 2009, 07:45 PM   #85 (permalink)
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To be honest Fil, I really cant see how to get the lower ball joint off the hub without removing the shaft, theres just NO room.
Used next door's impact gun on the hub nuts but even thats not having any of it. I have a few other ideas up my sleeve and taking it to a garage is a LAST resort.

I'll keep you all posted as to how I get on with this..

TT
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Old 15th October 2009, 02:34 PM   #86 (permalink)
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To be honest Fil, I really cant see how to get the lower ball joint off the hub without removing the shaft, theres just NO room.
Used next door's impact gun on the hub nuts but even thats not having any of it. I have a few other ideas up my sleeve and taking it to a garage is a LAST resort.

I'll keep you all posted as to how I get on with this..

TT
Aye, there's not much room under the hub .
I managed to undo my hub nuts with them on the car but with no handbrake buy sticking an iron bar between the wheel studs so that it presses on the floor when you put your weight on the breaker bar, but I doubt you'd be able to hold the hub assembly steady with all that weight on it without it being on the car.
Let us know how you get on anyway
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Old 15th October 2009, 06:07 PM   #87 (permalink)
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Had another go on the hub nuts today seeing as a mate came round to visit...thought I'd use the extra muscle. Ended up snapping a 1/2" drive extension bar.
However the biggest surprise was also snapping my 1/2" drive 24" long breaker bar on the next attempt .
Going to order a 1" metre long bar and a 1"dr 36mm . Now if THAT doesnt work.............I'm properly screwed..

TT
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Old 11th March 2010, 08:27 PM   #88 (permalink)
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Its been a while since I last updated this despite constant work on the car so I thought I'd better keep you posted on my progress......

Got my 1M long,1"Sq Dr bar and 36mm socket a while back...the hub nuts were off in a flash . Rear lower arms were fitted and the whole lot was tightened up. Eventually got the high capacity rear diff cover, fitted it and filled it with Redline 75W-90.

Jeez, that thing takes a filling ..Back end is now in 'ultimate spec' save for a 2-way diff that will come later. There's literally NOTHING more I can do to improve the spec of the rear end
I've also been busy fitting a rear firewall which was fun. Got some 2mm sheet aluminium and spend a good few hours fitting it. The lack of a template was a right PITA. I did try and make a cardboard template but got fed up with that and just winged it using the MK1 eyeball for dimensions. Worked OK. Not the BEST firewall in the world but it meets regulations in the fact that it fully seals the boot from the passenger compartment. Got some fireproof silicone sealant from Ebay and sealed it all up........good eh???
Well...not really....Went for a visit to Xsport racing in Basingstoke as I was thinking about having them build and fit me a weld-in cage and wanted a chat with them. VERY impressed with them and their facilities and have absolutely NO hesitation choosing Greg, John and the guys to do the work. One thing we decided on was tieing in the rear turrets to the cage which obviously necessitiates the removal of the firewall . So today, I got round to drilling out the pop rivets but have left it in place for the moment.
One thing I started a while back was the trimming down of the wiring loom, removing all the unnecessary wiring to the now long gone services i.e electric windows, interior lights, centre gauges etc..this is proving to be a right, royal pain in the sphincter. Auto electrics was never my strong point during my apprenticeship and its showing BIG time. I even got a quote for a professional motorsport loom and was quoted in the region of £3000 I'm just going to have to persevere I think. I KNOW I can do it, its just that it will take time I suppose.
Everywhere on the car I now see weight and ways to remove it which is good. I'm hopefully going to be purchasing a metal lathe and milling machine soon so will be able to fabricate my own parts out of aluminium or, dare I say it, titanium.
On the subject of weight I also removed the rear screen and the rear quarter windows and have replaced them with polycarbonate. Only the doors to change to fibreglass and change the side windows to polycarbonate and were all done. I've been experimenting with composites recently and am going to be moulding my own carbon front splitter and perhaps even some body panels depending on how good I am at it. I've bought a few cracking books on the subject and my trial pieces have turned out all right so it cant be too bad.
Next jobs to get done are to finish the loom, fit my Cartek battery isolator, fit push-start switch to name but a few then it'll be off to get caged in May.

I'll be out in the garage tomorrow so will get a few pics of the progress made to date....

TT
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Old 11th March 2010, 08:45 PM   #89 (permalink)
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Scott did the lower DW rear arms fit ok, or did you have to play about with them at all?

bobster
p.s.
Did you book your place on the ferry?
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Old 11th March 2010, 10:43 PM   #90 (permalink)
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Scott did the lower DW rear arms fit ok, or did you have to play about with them at all?
Arms themselves were fine, just had to remove some material from the inside of the small conical adapter on the bottom of the hub carrier as they were slightly too narrow to fit over the DW ball joint shaft. Very pleased with the result (especially at the price I got the arms at!!)

Quote:
Did you book your place on the ferry?
Not yet buddy..getting there though

Scott
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Old 12th March 2010, 11:06 AM   #91 (permalink)
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Once again I'm enjoying seeing the updates!

I've just noticed the posts about the rear hub carrier bushes. Did you cut the old bushes out or use a press, and more importantly how much of a job was it? I'm trying to convince myself that I want to do the job on my own and not farm it out...

NB Get your ferry booked for Le Mans the prices will go up soon. Hope to see you at the GTROC BBQ!
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Old 12th March 2010, 03:07 PM   #92 (permalink)
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Well, heres some pics to keep you occupied....


All washed and looking good. The observant will notice the protective covering on the N/S/R polycarbonate window. They are only temporarily mounted at the moment as they will be removed again when the cage gets put in. I saw no sense removing the covering in the meantime. Also, theres no rear window either. Again, for reasons of cage fabrication.


Yes, I know the rear harness straps aren't connected . There are eyes for them in the rear floor but I will be attaching them to the cage when its done.


The nightmare that is the wiring loom. I really should know better...I reckon I'll take it out and do it off the car tp preserve my sanity...Obviouslt the seats not in when I'm doing loom work


Managed to get the profile of the rear part of the firewall reasonably spot-on. Quite happy with that. NOT particularly amused that it needs to come back out again. Although thats due to my lack of foresight.


There ARE plates that fit more snugly around the bit where the loom passes through the firewall. They were removed before this pic was taken.


Getting there........slowly

Cris, IIRC I just drilled around the rubber part of the bush, removed the core and hacksawed the outer steel sleeve from the hub. The DW bushes I got were a dawdle to fit. You fit the urethane bit (orange) by using a rubber hammer and then hammer in the steel sleeve. Theres really nothing to it. No need for presses etc.

TT
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Old 12th March 2010, 09:57 PM   #93 (permalink)
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better be finished for second week of June Sotty!! Although I can talk!

bob
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Old 24th March 2010, 11:19 PM   #94 (permalink)
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Been getting handy with the fibreglass lately and have crafted myself a (not so beautiful) battery box for the Odyssey PC680 that will be replacing the micra bat thats in it at the moment. Going to bolt that just behind the passenger seat to keep the wire runs as short as poss.
This will aid the fitting of a Cartek GT battery isolator I picked up for a VERY good price....


also have a push start switch to wire in as well although I'm toying with the idea of ripping all the wiring out from the front bulkhead back and making up a new loom myself. I like the idea of having only the bare essentials left in the loom and using rows of circuit breakers rather than the original fusebox and relay holders. Luckily I have an electrical place nearby who supply high-end loom components for motorsport .
I really need to decide what I'm going to do with the electrics as times marching on for getting the cage installed and I'd much rather have the wiring finished by that time.

Going to be dabbling in some CF moulding real soon as I think big weight savings can be made for not a lot of cash (just effort). So watch this space.....

TT
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Old 26th March 2010, 08:33 PM   #95 (permalink)
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Have taken bumper off to paint the tow hooks and remove the overly complex number plate holder!!!. Will be taking a mould of the bumper over the weekend hopefully if I have enough CSM left



A pic of the home-made PC680 battery box I ran up last weekend...


Needs a lick of paint (red or black) and isnt the most eye-catching but it meets MSA standards in terms of being leakproof and non conductive. Its actually a LOT more robust than it looks...3 layers of 450g CSM and 1 layer of 600g woven matting ....really getting into this laminating malarkey

Have also just secured another Corbeau Revolution XL, rail and harness to go in the passengers side (its black but I'm not fussed as I'll swap the centre panels on both for a bit of a contrast). Also got another loom on the way so I will work on that OFF the car and strip away what I need to. I'll also investigate the possibility of utilising console mounted light and wiper switches so I can dispense with the dodgy rotary switches on the dash top. That way I can try and mould a carbon dash top without any crazy compound curves or switch mounts.

TT
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Old 2nd May 2010, 06:12 PM   #96 (permalink)
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Oh well, it seems the seat etc I bought I wont be getting after all!! HERE
On another note I have been busy with the fibreglass and have made up a replacement dash top without the upper and rotary switches..





Just had 1 thin coat of (particularly lumpy) primer so far but you get the idea from the pics....as a bonus theres a good 800grams to be saved by making one out of F/G I'm going to be either mounting the std washer/light rotary switches on a plate in the centre or utilising new, replacement throw switched (the preferred option). Also its not warped as it looks in the pic, just the way I had it propped up!!

Have been making progress with the loom and I'm seeing light at the end of the tunnel. Its looking less like a dogs dinner and more like a wiring loom . Std loom on left, modded loom on right....



I'm pretty sure that I've gone as far as I can with the front cabin loom and I'll be tackling the rear section next.

Also taken the time to convert to single wiper....




Testing seems to show it works!!(you can see the arc thrown in the dust on the windscreen!!). Although I'll be happier when I can operate it via the switch rather than a crude battery to motor connection ..

So, thats it for now. Still waiting on the cage to be fitted before I can really progress further..

TT
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Old 2nd May 2010, 10:02 PM   #97 (permalink)
GT-R Glenn is aware Veilsides street R32 gtr ran 8.612 @ 172.5 MPH (Radials)
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Cool, That rear ally bulkhead is a bitch, I made mine with the rear screen still in and the cage goes through it ....
Really dumb ...I should have pulled the rear screeen out.
oh well.
what wiper motor have you used tt ?
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Old 2nd May 2010, 10:17 PM   #98 (permalink)
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what wiper motor have you used tt ?
Std motor Glenn , just moved the bellcrank round 90deg so its pointing straight down and realigned the wiper arm..... As I said, preliminary tests seem OK.
When you remove the std motor the crank points to the 9 o'clock position. All I did was have a think about it and repositioned it at 6 o'clock. Small bit of filing and its all done. simples *squeak* (sorry, UK joke!!)

TT
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Old 2nd May 2010, 11:45 PM   #99 (permalink)
GT-R Glenn is aware Veilsides street R32 gtr ran 8.612 @ 172.5 MPH (Radials)
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Ah... I havnt ever looked at mine tbh , but Im thinking its a good idea, as is stripping the loom...
Luckily we are heading into the rally season, so I can get back to working on the goddy ...
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Old 15th May 2010, 05:58 PM   #100 (permalink)
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Hampshire, but Scottish through and through!
Cars owned: Genuine R32 GTR; Genuine-ish X5 4.8iS; Completely fake BMW M6; Reasonably Genuine Peugeot 306 Rallye
Posts: 8,540
Not much been happening lately TBH. Have moved from shiftworking to a normal 9-5 until December so I can see things slowing down. To be fair though, theres not a lot left to do to get it track ready.
Been out to the garage today and have painted my fibreglass dashtop matt black. Came out VERY well I must admit.
Also fitted my R33 PAS pump which wasnt as difficult as I had been led to believe.....I'd always read that a 33 pump NEEDS a 33 bracket but I can categorically state that that statement is not strictly true!!. Yes, theres a bit of grinding and filing but it goes in without any real hassle. Biggest thing is removing about 7mm from the rear part of the pump which fits between the bracket.

Unfortunately the batteries in my camera died JUST as I was about to take the first of todays pics!!!! I shall get some pics up soon. Next job is to relocate the PAS reservoir and plumb the pump in...got some stainless braided hose lying around so I should be able to utilise that hopefully!! Also bought some Mines cam baffles from Al (lightspeed) so will be fitting them as soon as they arrive

TT
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R32GTR- Stage 6; Frank Baxter exhaust with K-pipe; Rick Astley cams; Dave Gahan electrics; Bjorn Ulvaeus race prep; Howard Jones gearbox upgrade; Ray Charles body mods and styling. Mapped by Glenn Medeiros.------> Beat that R35 owners with dodgy parts list sigs :)

Last edited by tarmac terror; 15th May 2010 at 06:01 PM..
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