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Old 25th June 2011, 11:02 AM   #161 (permalink)
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Its coming together well.

What size ARB did you go for, as there's a few options and I'm looking at the whiteline kits ATM.
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Old 25th June 2011, 11:35 AM   #162 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by willrobdon View Post
Its coming together well.

What size ARB did you go for, as there's a few options and I'm looking at the whiteline kits ATM.
Whiteline one is 22mm (bnf27z) and 2-position adjustable. Cusco do a 24mm one also (know a chap who is selling one if your interested?).

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Old 25th June 2011, 12:23 PM   #163 (permalink)
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I'm currently working on the components for the rear at the mo and was looking at the whiteline bars for the rear. It'll be a while until I come to do the fronts but cheers for the info.

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Old 25th June 2011, 06:33 PM   #164 (permalink)
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fences?

Wee upright winglets?
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Old 25th June 2011, 07:01 PM   #165 (permalink)
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Well, been busy again...
Fitted the replacement CAS that I had lying around which should hopefully solve the stuttering problem the car had prior to it coming off the road. Time will tell

Also, decided to do some proper work and replace the cam pulleys for the alloy ones I bought AGES ago...


Decided to change the cambelt too as its over 5yrs old despite only doing approx 2000Miles since last change. Looked at Greddy and Power Enterprise belts from my fave Japanese parts suppliers but will give the UK guys a chance on Monday when I phone around. Cant believe how much a frikkin timing belt costs.... A decent one for my old 2L pinto was about £20!!!

Adam - Yes a winglet (ish) type thing.....like this...


Should stop any airflow spilling off the sides and direct it in a more useful way I reckon. The theory's sound and if its good enough for Boeings and Airbus' then its good for me . OK, a slightly different application but a similar solution to a similar problem. Also single seaters and anything with a wing will generally have fences (or endplates if you prefer) at the end to prevent spillover.

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Old 26th June 2011, 10:51 PM   #166 (permalink)
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Nice thread mate. just read it from start to finish. 1.5hours but some good ideas! Keep it coming
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Old 3rd July 2011, 09:58 PM   #167 (permalink)
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Decided to get a Dayco timing belt after some consideration (the same ones that DaveW sells). They supply to LOADS of OEMs and I'm confident it'll be just as good as Nissan/Greddy/Tomei etc. Also dediced to replace the tensioner and idler against my better judgement as they look in good order and will only have done a couple of thousand miles since last change anyway.....damn expensive for a couple of pulleys though. Seems RHDJapan are the cheapest at £99 delivered for both (OEM Nissan).
Secured myself an OSG quad plate which I'm picking up tomorrow. Still to fit the OSG carbon twin I have but with replacement plates seemingly difficult to source, when it dies I will fit the R4C which should last a while.
Speaking of timing belts, I see the book mentions some silly torque for the crank bolt (>500N!!! IIRC). My 1/2 Norbar will only do 200N so I'm a bit short. Even my Britool golden oldie will only reach 320N!! I MAY have to invest in a monster 3/4 torque wrench but I'm loath to do so given the amount of times I'm EVER going to be torquing in excess of 320N...... Might end up going for the 320N+a little extra and leaving it at that as that just seems hideously torque-heavy IMHO.

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Old 7th July 2011, 04:39 PM   #168 (permalink)
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OK, bottled it and bought a 3/4 Norbar 4R torque wrench which is good up to 700NM!!!

Yet another of my famous bargains..getting on for £300 new...got it for £72 with recent calibration!! Bargain..

Still waiting on the idler and tensioner from RHDJapan so I'm going to wait until I have all the bits and just get stuck in...

Bought some other goodies..

Stack fuel pressure gauge

I prefer working in PSI

A pair of Sytec -8 fuel filters...


A single 70 amp relay to run the pumps. Just need the fuel cell and lines and I can get the fuel system all sorted. Thinking I'm going to run hardline tube for most of the fuel runs and PTFE braided hose for the rest. Going to speak to Pirtek guy and see what his thoughts are.

The jobs on the 'to do' board in the garage are getting thinner on the ground and are noticeably minor in comparison to what was on it a few months back . I really wish I had a spare couple of grand at the minute to throw at a Syvecs S6 ECU and get the bloody thing done but my other projects demand that its going to be a while yet. I still have the Race Technology Dash2 and DL1 datalogger waiting to get fitted but this will only happen AFTER the Syvecs is done . Never mind though, something to look forward to at least!!

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Old 7th July 2011, 04:49 PM   #169 (permalink)
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That toque wrench will just be right for the cam cap bolts LOL
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Old 19th July 2011, 06:12 PM   #170 (permalink)
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Well, decided to attempt to get the crank bolt off in preparation for the rest of the job. I assumed that, with the 3/4 torque bar, that it would be a piece of cake...not so. Decided that it preferred to stay ON the car rather than come off. So, I was starting to get a bit fed up and couldnt be bothered with all the hassle of removing the starter and making up a flywheel lock. Used the old trick of wedging my 1"sqdr breaker bar against the garage floor an turning the engine over on the starter...no joy.
Went to local Machine Mart and bought their 1000W 1/2" electric impact gun. Got home, removed rad, oil cooler and intercooler and sprayed a bit of Plusgas into the bolt area. Went for a cuppa and when I got back, used the newly acquired rattle gun on the stubborn bolt. Guess what.........came off after about 5s worth of effort!!! Big sighs of relief all round.
Bought myself a used Corbeau Pro-Series bucket for the passengers side which is in truly excellent condition for a bargain £80!! Was going to buy a Bride or DW rail but decided to get some 5mm thick plate and angle and make up a subframe myself. I dont need adjustability for the passengers side so its all good. Coming along nicely!!!

Will be going back to garage tomorrow for some more fab work so will take some piccies then..

TT
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Old 23rd July 2011, 09:29 PM   #171 (permalink)
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Been spending some more time on the car... Now changed the timing belt and in the process of putting it all back together. Had to go and buy a puller kit for the harmonic balancer as it was all stuck fast....


A bargain £15 from Ebay and decent quality surprisingly. Its something I should have had in the 'box a long time ago. Been making do with a "homemade quality" puller so its good to have something a bit more professional.
I have to say that the clear cam belt cover has been screaming out for some tasty anodised pulleys for a while now....


Looks the mutts and even though they're not my preferred red Tomei wheels, these do the job for vastly less cash.


The passengers seat is now fitted complete with 3" Sabelt harness I picked up a few months back. OK, its not the same colour as the drivers seat but I dont care really. I have spent what feels like an eternity trying to find a used RED Corbeau pro-series or Revolution and have trawled just about every car-related forum on the net. I am satisfied that there are none out there.


Forgot that the rear harness straps came minus the metal snap fittings so now have 2 on order. Also, the seat came without 2 of the plastic trims which finish the harness holes (1 upper and 1 lower side). Thankfully these dont cost an arm and a leg so have order the appropriate items also. Seat needs a hoover and the harness needs a good wash but for £140, which is what I paid for them individually, I'm VERY pleased with the results..

The seat frame has turned out extremely well and I'm going to remove it again tomorrow and give it a lick of paint to prevent corrosion of the welds etc. MSA regs specify 3mm mild steel or 5mm aluminium alloy for seat mounts but I went for 5mm steel for the inboard mount and some 3mm plate and 30mm square box-section for the outer mount. If I'm honest I think I may have underestimated how heavy the inboard (5mm) assembly actually weighs despite its dimensions. I may revisit this further down the line and do it in 3mm but at least I have confidence in the robustness of the whole frame.

Also, have now fitted the Stack FPG...


Was about the only piece of real estate left in the dash area I could find but actually works really well there. I'm not into separate pods and pillar gauge holders as I find them a bit distastefull and they have no place on my track car. When the RaceTechnology Dash2 goes in I think I may relocate the gauge within the binnacle to keep everything focussed.

TT
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Old 25th July 2011, 10:14 AM   #172 (permalink)
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Finally got the engine back together again after timing belt change. Car started up first time and everything was good apart from it squealing its nuts off!!! MAY have the fan belt tension a bit high

Got the seat subframe primered and sprayed.....


A gratuitous shot of my GRP doors...


Next 'big' (I've run out of REALLY big jobs) job is to mock-up and measure my rear brake assembly and make a decision on which way to go re discs. The dilemma I have at the moment is which rotors to go with. Unfortunately AP, Brembo, PFC and Wilwood do not share a common number of mounting bolts or PCD so I will have to commit to one. Now AP are all good and well but money-wise a bit of a premium. Wilwood HD series thick-wall rotors look man enough for the job AND are a decent price. My current feeling is that the rear rotors will only need changing infrequently and do a smaller share of the braking effort and the Wilwoods will be more than enough.
The next headscratcher is this.....my IR-GT rear calipers are supposedly specced for a maximum 310mm rotor but I really want to go 330mm. I'm debating whether the extra diameter is actually worth it given the radial depth of the pad. I suspect not but investigation is necessary....

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Old 30th July 2011, 04:56 PM   #173 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cona2k View Post
do u want some split rims for that
No thanks......

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Old 31st July 2011, 11:42 AM   #174 (permalink)
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nice build mate! keep it up!
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Old 9th August 2011, 10:49 PM   #175 (permalink)
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Just read your thread today its ace! Like your DIY style and love of a bargain! I love a bargain just dont find enough of them

Anyway enough moaning, thought i might add something useful. I would say using the wilwood hd series on the rear of a 1300-1400kilo skyline is overkill. I would look at the normal rotors, for example on one of my other toys, a 280hp 750kg FWd car I use wilwood Nascar UL curved vane rear rotors and theyre overkill on that car. Also theyre good enough for nascars constantly braking down from 200mph+. The other benefit is they were cheap £27!! new from us. Just think you can save some unsprung weight which I find is always very noticeable to wheel control and makes the car easier to drive on anything remotely unsupersmooth tarmac.
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Old 9th August 2011, 11:21 PM   #176 (permalink)
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Well funnily enough, only this very morning I have secured myself a pair of Wilwood 310x32mm 32vane Ultralight rotors (the more expensive burnished items) for a bargain £110 delivered from US!! Having an 8 x 8.5" RBC means I have some options at a later date if I decide to go larger. I have also bought some mild steel to machine into brackets for the IR-GT calipers so it's all coming together. Decided that I have to start somewhere so once I have the calipers mounted I can get some proper measurements for the bespoke bells I need.

Thanks for your comments.

TT
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Old 15th August 2011, 03:07 PM   #177 (permalink)
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This is the right Topic for me
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Old 20th August 2011, 05:13 PM   #178 (permalink)
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Been doing bits and bobs with the car lately..its SO frustrating having done all the really big stuff and just being left with piddly stuff!!! Hopefully that will change when I start buying some of the more expensive goodies on my wish list

Have been busy machining the brackets required to mount the rear Wilwood IR-GT calipers..


Used the lathe which proved to be spot-on and got through the first one in no time at all!!!. A little bit of 'processing' and tapping and we have the finished article....


Just needs to have the hub mounting holes drilled but I can only do that once I have the rotors....which, amazingly arrived today!! They are the absolute dogs nuts and look fantastic while weighing not a lot. They are deceptively light and are 310 x 32mm.. (Wilwood 160-4574B/5B for those interested). Apparently ready burnished for race use which is an added bonus, especially for the price (see above post!)


Next step is to test-fit the calipers and discs which will allow me to specify the correct offset for the custom rear bells I'm going to have machined .

Been treating the garage to some more goodies in the form of this 25T hydraulic press I swiped off Ebay for a measly £205 ...Its a VERY robust piece of kit and a 'proper' press unlike some of the bottle-jack style presses you can pick up for under a hundred notes. New 25T quality presses go for upwards of £800-odd quid so, yet again, I'm well pleased with the purchase


Should add some much needed capability in the pressing department so am well happy. Also bought a large sized compound table for the pillar drill for basic milling purposes..


Perhaps a bit OTT but even using it for accurate drilling alignment its worth a place in the inventory.

As some may have seen in the 'for sale' section, I have decided to sell my Stack fuel pressure gauge and go for the Pro-control version which will allow me to take a feed from the gauge and hook it up to my datalogger or new ECU when I get it. If it doesnt sell then so be it but I'd rather go for the Pro-control. Should have done it from the outset but thought at the time I would need/want the facility. I was wrong

Getting a towbar for the X5 this coming payday so will allow me to trailer the GTR to get the geometry setup properly and take it for a map check. After that, there's no good reason why it cant hit the track!!! .

The end its truly in sight and it feels gooood. Just hope I can get it all done and do at least 1 trackday before end of autumn. Even my slow pace of work should manage that

TT
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Old 20th August 2011, 05:29 PM   #179 (permalink)
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r32

lovely r32 gtr
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Old 14th September 2011, 11:05 AM   #180 (permalink)
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Well..things have been a bit slow lately...
Managed to get the towbar on the X5 so at least the capability is there for trailering when I need it. Had planned on getting the geometry set up amd the map check done but had to inject some cash into my rental property. The fact that I bought a GT4094R also had something to do with it
PLanning on getting all the bits and bobs together to fit the single but I'm not too concerned if this takes a little time. Would rather get the car out there and running first and change over later. First plan of action is to get the fuel system finished which requires me buying the fuel cell and all piping/hoses/fittings. When thats done I suspect there will be a very low mile (sub 200mile!!) Nismo fuel pump up for grabs ...

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