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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
so the rebuild has already started, and I figured I'd post the details, put things up for public scrutiny, going system by system:

The block:
- R32 block, now being bored and honed to 87mm
- standard R32 crankshaft, in fine condition, JUN oil collar to be added next week.
- N1 water and N1 oil pumps, 2000km from new. Will reuse.
- Nismo engine mounts, 2000km from new. Will reuse.
- block has Tomei oil gallery orifice installed
- ordered Tomei oil pan baffle
- ordered Tomei gasket set (1.2mm head, intake and exhaust)
- ordered Tomei conrod bolts, will reuse stock nuts, and stock conrods
- ordered Tomei 87mm piston kit
- standard Nissan engine overhaul gasket kit for the other bits.
- will order Nismo inner crank bearings (6 sets), center crank bearings (1 set), conrod bearings (6 sets).
- Mechanic insists on replacing the knock sensors. Can't order though until I get a confirmation of the part number (see my thread on that!)

The question: How do I determine the "grade" of the bearings? Do I use the exact thickness of the existing bearings? I've really no idea, and my mechanic wasn't sure either. Also, I think there was some debate over bearings, does anyone have strong opinions about going with either Nismo, Power Enterprise, or Tomei bearings? I'm also assuming that bearing replacement is a big part in making the engine "like new" - otherwise, why spend $400 on little metal shells that, ideally, don't contact any metal in the first place?


Forced induction:
- I'm in the GT2860-5 group buy. Brand new turbos! Wicked good pricing!
- These will run at 2530-like boost levels, 1.4 to 1.6 I think?
- stock BOVs will be retained, as well as stock FMIC
Question: Although my old turbos survived the cruel and unusual punishment I meted out, obviously I was flirting with the dark side on that one. How does one destroy a modern BB turbo? I ask because I want to avoid such behaviors! Conversely, tips on keeping them happy and long-lived? I almost went with the smaller -7s, but I felt that the -5s might lag more, but they will run cooler when flowing the same airflow as the -7s, plus I can get more top end rush. Like crack cocaine.

The head:
- old one shitcanned, only the cams are reusable, and I'm selling those off.
- replacement R32 head sourced with stock valves and springs.
- ordered Tomei Poncams Type B (260 in/ex 9.15mm lift) with adjustable cam pulleys
Question: Should I clean up the head in any way? extrudehone (the company has a branch in Korea)? how about the valves and springs - replace or polish to new condition?

Intake:
- ordered Apexi 80mm suction kit with pipes and Z32 pigtails to replace HKS mushrooms
- ordered Z32 AFMs
- will reuse stock plenum - the Nismo one is nice (Z-Tune!) but I've got to draw the line somewhere or I'll bankrupt myself
- will reuse stock intercooler pipes.
Questions: Does anyone run stock intercooler hoses with 2530 turbos? can they handle the airflow and boost without popping off all the time? Lots of chrome piping under the hood is a dead giveaway for a stage two engine, and well, let's just say that at the Saturday night wangan races, I'd like to hide that fact, if possible.
That being said however, how do you polish the "twin turbo" pipe as well as the intake plenum to a decent but not a complete mirror shine? I will be repainting the covers (cam, coil, front bit) back to a stock and minty fresh matte black.

Ignition:
- ordered Splitfire coil packs. The stock ones seemed to be working fine but my mechanic is of the opinion that they're putting out a weak electric charge, compared to what they should be putting out
- NGK grade 8 iridium plugs. 500km on them, and they survived the meltdown, although I had to see it to believe it. Electrodes look unscathed. Unexpected.
- I hate the stock ignitor - I don't trust it. Any good aftermarket amps that will replace that piece of shit? I've also been thinking that running a big fat audiograde earthing wire from the ignitor directly to the battery might help things.

Exhaust:
- will reuse stock exhaust manifold and turbo elbows. Being cast iron, they look quite a bit rusty - is there a way to clean them up, freshen them up a bit? Would extrudehoning these bits be worthwhile?
- will reuse Mines downpipe, decat, and Apexi N1 catback. 4 inches. Can't think of a better exhaust.

Cooling:
- radiator is stock. Have no immediate plans to upgrade it.
- no oil cooler. Will wait until summer before installing it - putting it in now will only make warm-up times intolerably long.
- will continue to use stock thermostat - did not order a 68 degree thermostat.

Fuel system:
- Denso 700cc injectors installed
- Nismo FPR installed
- am using a Korean-made oil line as my fuel feed line, rated to 10 bar. Should I switch to HKS TFE braided steel lines?
- Apexi fuel pump installed (after meltdown) - stock broken pump thrown out with the garbage.
- stock fuel rail

Drivetrain:
- Nismo coppermix twinplate clutch, no Big slave cylinder. I love this clutch, and don't ever want to replace it. Best. Clutch. Ever.
- all driveshafts and diffs are of unknock mileage, and could very well be quite worn on 200K miles.
- front CV boots check out ok - no cracks
- ATTESA clutchpack works well, a rather sensitive beast it is.

Brakes:
- standard calipers
- Endless brake pads, 2000km on them
- solid rotors front and rear, barely worn in. Should last a fair bit.
- have Nismo brake lines to put in
- likewise with a Cusco brake cylinder brace

Suspension:
- Teins in front, Mines/Ohlins in the rear. Strut braces front and rear.
- ordered Cusco pillowball tension rods
- will replace rear tierod ball joints ($90 a pair from the US - woot!!)

Electronics:
- will install Apexi gauges (boost, EGT, fuel pressure, oil temp)
- will install NTK wideband lambda with a simple digital readout.
- EMS is Apexi Power FC Pro.
- oil pressure sender is for a Z32, has 2000km on it, so I trust the dash gauge.
- Bee*R rev limited installed. Launch setting disabled, and only a mild top end cut is programmed in. No way I was going to run that thing with ceramic blades in the turbos. Still doubt I'll use it much, if ever. They say you can build load while revving before launch. But I think the right rpms at no load can provide enough power to get off the line without spinning the wheels too much. In my drag launches, I don't get to WOT until well into 2nd gear.
Question: Best location to mount the EGT? or the NTK wideband sensor? or the fuel pressure sensor?


FINAL QUESTION:
- assuming that the map is nice and safe, yet a little edgy and responsive. But well done, and safe from det and preignition,including the dreaded (over 100mph) preignition that has happened to me twice on the highway.

- also considering that I don't push past 6K in normal driving, and I shift between 7 and 8K when driving to race the hell out of my car,

- considering the essentially new bottom end, rebuilt with forged pistons and new bushings,

- assuming no errors were made in assembly (proper torque settings for all bolts, head attached correctly with the correct tightening sequence),

- understanding that airflow is increased by Tomei poncams, 2530-equiv turbos, and I will run 1.6bar boost,

- but also understanding that although I drive the Skyline every day, I don't open it up often, just short bursts here and there,

Might I be able to get 60K miles out of this build? Or do 1.6bar engines simply not last that long?
 

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How do you ever find time to do anything else, what with the size/amount of threads you post on this forum???
 

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Christ, Nobody please tell Andy R32 Combat about this thread! He will lose us all with his hi'tech talk:confused: ;) :D

Just messing Andy, would be interested to read your thoughts on this:thumbsup:


Good luck with the re-build.



Steve
 

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Get a workshop manual before you size up the bearings..
 

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Discussion Starter #7
How do you ever find time to do anything else, what with the size/amount of threads you post on this forum???
utter neglect of everything else in life, and an overwhelming psychotic obsession with my GT-R. If I can't drive it, I can talk about it :p

Once this stage two tune is built, mapped, settled in, and running normally, I imagine my posts will more or less taper off...until something else breaks :p
 

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Couple things I pick up that I see you might need.

Turbo Elbow. - Standard are very restrictive. Since you have a mines downpipe, then go for Tomei if you are on a budget, HKS are nice also. Mines elbow seems to have the best (biggest size elbow with seprate chamber)

Put in the oil cooler with a oil cooler thermostat, that shouldn't make warm up time any slower then.

And like you said, get a proper nice and safe map and you are off. Best boost pressure I have seen for the 2530 seems to be around 1.5 bar toping out at 1.6 bar. Any more are just heat.

Good luck with the rebuild.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
They've got a Dynojet. I didn't know there was one in Korea.

regarding mapping: their dynojet operator has a lot of experience mapping Fcons, which means he knows the basic principles of tuning an engine - they built (and he mapped) the FD that took the overall Korean championship this year. As an Apexi dealer they also program the piggyback AFCs, but for some reason Apexi won't give them a "license" or whatever to do Power FCs.

Anyways, when the car is done we'll put her on the dynojet for a day and see what we can iron out on the map. By having a finger on the pulse of every engine parameter, and some common sense, well, let's hope for the best, cause the importing-a-jap-tuner thing fell through.

Didn't know about the elbows, I'll add them to the shopping list. And I'll set high boost at 1.5 and well, I won't go over!! :p
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Fuel system question:

With Z32 AFMs, 2860-5 turbos, and Tomei Poncams (260/260 9.15mm), to adequetely feed this engine, am I right in thinking that a (brand new) Apexi in-tank pump and Sard 700cc injectors are up to the task? (meaning, using stock fuel lines and stock fuel rail, although with a Nismo FPR). I think the Apexi is only rated to 240l/hr, but I'm stuck with it as it already got installed.

For all the boost that these turbos will push, which should run me at or just over 600hp at the flywheel, will running an upgraded fuel rail make any difference? Perhaps even just make the whole fuel system more reliable?

And in regards to swirl pots, is there a reason why I haven't seen one mounted up front (where the battery is)? Intuitively, I'd think the in tank pump should lift to a 5 liter capacity pot right up next to the engine, and then have the fuel rail fed from both sides from an external pump up close.

Also, in such a system, (lifter pump and feeder pump), if the lifter pump goes, there's a small reserve (5 liters) to slow down and shut down the engine, but if the feeder pump goes, is it simply game over?
 

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^^^ Yeah honestly would be a interesting topic, I do hope your tuner is a good one the ammount of new bits and replacement bits you are getting must cost you enough, just hope the guys putting it all together are proper pros.

either way. Good luck, ill be watching this build too :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You should move this to the Members Gallery area and post pics as you get the work done
I should and will, if only for the utterly pornographic nature of the cars in the long-term bays next to mine - a couple days ago a Carrera GT moved in next to my poor R32 for something or other to be done on it that'll take awhile.


no ideas/thoughts on the fuel system?
 
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