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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My break light came on yesterday after driving the car back from the mechanic that looked at my A/C compressor. its the light that comes on when you pull the e-brake.

I opened the hood to find my master cylinder at the "MIN" mark. I filled the reservoir with brake fluid and the light went away. i was looking around my ABS unit to see its leaking from somewhere on the bottom where the motor goes into the ABS unit.

Is there a gasket or O-ring that can be replaced with these units or do i need to get another one? Has anyone taken them apart to replace any of the seals?
 

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Abbey said they were going to do a rebuild kit, but still found they would often leak, so gave up.
Mine leaked so I bought a 2nd hand unit as they were around £1300 new. If it fails again, will remove abs and run a balance valve.
 

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Abbey said they were going to do a rebuild kit, but still found they would often leak, so gave up.
Mine leaked so I bought a 2nd hand unit as they were around £1300 new. If it fails again, will remove abs and run a balance valve.
£1300?!? :eek: ill discard it instead! how much 2nd hand unit then or rebuild cost?
 

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Better to go abs-less. I remember after I braked really hard to find the next day it was leaking. Less hassle without abs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
What is the best way to go ABS-less??? I read somewhere from people swapping in R33 or R34 ABS pumps in there cars. Is this possible?

To go ABS-less, better to with a 3 port master cylinder or use the stock one and split the 2 with a "T" or proportioning valve??
 

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having had some ABS related issues recently, i'd say removing the ABS looks the more attractive option.

You don't want to add a proportioning valve if you use any of the skyline master cylinders or anything from a 90s car really, these already have a proportioning valve in the master cylinder and you can have two valves as that will double tge effect after the knee point leaving very little rear brake, making it much more likely to lock the fronts.

Some nissan 4x4s like the patrol from the era will often have an external valve, so you could use one or these and an external valve to dial it in as you like.

More modern cars do the proportioning in the ABS system afaik. So if you could find a bmc that fitted, again you could use your own external valve.

There are z32 bm57 three port bmcs but the bias may not be right for a skyline. Easier to stay with a two port r32-34 gtr bmc and t the front line.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok, so that pretty much covers the hard line side of things. Where is the DYI tutorial for deleting the ABS pump? What kind of wiring am i looking at??
 

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What he's saying is the way to remove the ABS...Just don't remove the ABS wheelspeedsensors wiring if you intend to keep the 4wd system working :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
All that I want to temp is remove the abs pump and reroute the brake lines. Before I tackle this, I want to make sure I don't have any issues.

So, if I inplug my abs pump and leave it unplugged, will be abs light come on? With the pump unplugged, will my 4wd still work. I'm not making a race car and plan to strip the whole loom just for some wires.
 

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Your pump will keep leaking if you are leaving it there.

You will have to pull out the pump and redo you lines properly. The electrical side of things is not that big of a deal.
 
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